Replace front control arm DIY?
 

Hi all! Just want to know if it is possible to replace the right front control arm (31126760276) of my X5 by myself (DIY)? Thanks!

Yes it is 'relatively' easy. Here is the DIY http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/s...trol-arms.html

Thanks for reply! I just checked the price of the part, some garages ask for US$205 for the original BMW control arm (wishbone) without labor cost, US$65 for non-original BMW control arm made in Germany (no idea which company it is made by), labor cost is around US$40, I guess. I also asked BMW dealer for the part, they ask for US$400 for the part with 2-year warranty and US$40 for labor cost.

So what do you experts suggest? Buy a non-original one or an original one then ask a garage to install for me? Or just put it to BMW dealer for US$440 total?

I was thinking of doing it by myself, but I just gave up this thought since I am not an machinist who is specialized in car manufacturing and I do not have much knowledge on car repairing either. It also could be dangerous since the car needs to be lifted in order to complete the job.

Any suggestion? Thanks for any input!

Does anyone know if the quality of aftermarket control arm is equivalent to original BMW one?

Link?

the control arm, or officially called by bmw as wishbone, the part number is 31126760276. Thanks!

The non-OEM;Do you have a link so we can take a look?

Hi Paul! Sorry that I misunderstand what you said. I do not have the link, the parts dealer (not BMW dealer) told me that it is made in Germany and 100% OEM quality, but they did not told me which company was the manufacturer. I also searched in eBay and also found lots of the control arms being sold there, the descriptions are also saying they are made in Germany and 100% OEM quality. I guess the parts dealer is selling similar thing just like what is selling in eBay. I am just wondering if the aftermarket control arms sold in eBay or the parts dealer have good quality just like the genuine BMW one? Thanks!

Roger,
It's a crap shoot. These guys on eBay say lots of things but you have to pay up front to find out and they never take it back. I would do a thorough search on the feedback of some of the sellers before you buy anything. The WWW makes it too easy to fall prey to rip-off artists.
Having said that you can get a deal sometimes, I know I have but not every time.

Thanks Paul! What do you think about this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...096490368&rd=1

Thanks!

I bought two of those arms on ebay, I can't remember the name of the seller, but my mech installed them months ago and they are working great and no more shimmy , pretty solid steering now. I say do it and don't pay the ridiculous prices at the dealer, my mech who works at a bmw dealer told me that all they do is put a bmw stamp on their parts .

I know those white with pretty roundel boxes BMW use for the OEM parts are worth a pretty penny! I say this because that's the only difference between some of the aftermarket parts and OEM. I found this out a long time ago with brake shoes. Mintex shoes cost $26 a set and the Mintex stamped, OEM boxed shoes cost $190 at the dealership.

Thanks! Then I think I will get the aftermarket control arm for my loved X5!

I read the document in TIS and the instruction on the home page, both of them say a special tool called puller is needed to remove the control arm. Do I have to get the tool to remove the control arm? Is there any way to remove the control arm without any special tool? By the way, do I have to do wheel alignment after renew the control arm? What is wheel alignment? Thanks for help!

My bmw mech just wacked them with a hammer and they came out......and no wheel alignment is necessary.

Check this manfucaturer (LEMFÖRDER) as well...mainly BMW stamp their product and sale as own original...LEMFÖRDER prices much lower without bmw roundel stamps on it...

http://www.zf-trading.com/brand_lem_gb

Today I bought all tools that needed to replace control arm, then started to work. After I jacked up my car, took off the wheel and started to unscrew the nut that connects to sub-frame, I found that the screw was not 18mm, which is said in the instruction in the home page, I found that the screw was 16mm. Since I did not buy 16mm socket, so what I had to do was to put the wheel back on and lower the car. I will go out to buy 16mm socket tomorrow, and re-start the work. It really sucks.

you can just hammer it if you are not reusing the joint.

Why not just buy the whole set of sockets? :dunno: The time and gas money for running back and forth are more likely to cost you more in the end. Besides that, you're more than likely to use most of those sockets anyway if you plan on doing other works (either around the house or on the car).

Totally agree! I've always take my set of tools with me when I'm changing my drive...keep it always nearby...

Roger, Do you have Sears over there??? Treat yourself to a mechanics tool set!!!! Best thing I ever bought!!

How did the install go???

I failed to replace the control arm myself. I unscrewed the two screws, but I was not able to get the control arm off from the rotor side, it was so damn tight, I tried to use hammer to tap it, no use, still very tight. After about 2 hours trying to get it off, I gave up becuase I did not want to damage anything else. I reinstalled the wheel. I will go out to find a garage to complete the work. Very frustrated.

2h to get the ball joint out with no success does not make sense to me. Are you sure you unscrewed the right nut? I never had to change my control arm myself on my X as it is still under warranty but I did on many other cars. I usually use a puller to get the ball joint out. With a puller it should pop up like a charm assuming you have unscrew the right nut. You can buy a ball joint puller for about $25 at Autozone or even loan it for 6 or 7$.

I do not have the special tool or a ball joint folk, so it is not easy to get it off. I unscrewed all screws, there are only two screws, one is on the rotor side (18mm), the other one is on sub-frame side (22mm). I just tried to tap it off or just use hand force to get it off. That is wahy I failed. Someone here said that it was very easy to get it off by using a hammer, but not for me. Can anyone tell me that how to use the puller or the ball joint folk to get the control arm off? Thanks a lot!

Look at the third pic of the article. It shows exactly how to place a ball joint puller.
http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/s...trol-arms.html

Yes, I saw the pic, but what should I do after I place the puller/ball joint folk to get it off?

Here is a better pic of how to place and use a ball joint puller. The image is for removing an e39's ball joint but the placement and use of the ball joint puller for the X is the same.

Rogerkiu,

Why are you replacing the Arm control? What the cause? Can we just replacing the bushing itself instead of replacing the whole Arm Control?

I having with a slight vibration at steering when the car is driving on the new smooth road. I thought the smoother the ground is then your car must be drive smoother, apparently not for my X5. I don't know that I should replace the Lower Arm Control yet, right now my X5 has 67K miles and it's never been replaced before. Any suggestion? Thanks

The control arms come with the bushings installed.

I just got a quote for OEM Suspension/Control Arm is made from Bilstein fro $69.99 (part #311226760275 Left, 311226760276 right). Anyone knows the quality of this parts?

Since the joint of the control arm (the joint connects the control arm and the rotor) is loosen, so that the wheel shakes when you push the wheel by holding at the point of 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. The sympton is that when you drive your X at about 120 KM/H, your steering wheel shakes and especially when you push your brake at that speed. Also you feel the steering wheel shakes when you are cornering at high speed. The BMW service center told me that the control arm must be changed.

Thanks Alpac, so I just need to screw the nut by using the wrench to push the joint out, right?

One more thing, I just bought the control arm made by Febi Germany, anyone heard about the manufacturer? How is the quality? Thanks for comments!

Exactly

Bilstein? Is it Febi Bilstein? I also bought the right control arm made by this manufacturer. I check the manufacturer's website, looks a big manufacturer, anyone has experierence?

Finally, I did it! I bought a ball joint puller and pushed the control arm out easily. The rest of work is pretty streight foward, just put the new control arm on and replace the two nets and tighten the nets. All done. It took 2 hours to do it including test driving. Perfect!

Congrat!

alpac, I found one problem here. The tightening torque of the nuts required by TIS is 100 Nm for frame side and 80 Nm for rotor side. I just tightened the nets to the specified torque when the car was jacked up. In TIS, it say 'tighten in empty weight or normal weight' which means the car should be grounded. Is there any problem if I just tighten the nuts when the car is not grounded? Thanks for help.

No, you are fine

What type of ball joint puller did you buy? I am going to replace the part next week.

i bought the ball joint puller made by KUKKO Germany, the part number is 129-25, others could be too small. It costs HK$580 (US$75). Good quality but expensive.

Can you pls post a pic yor ball joint puller, or a link?

Here you are:

http://www.kukko.com/index.cfm?page=...cfm&m=2&id=182

where did you get the quote from? I checked realoem price and msrp is about $70 something each side. however, I checked several online parts websites and it's priced at $190 something. (those sites say msrp is $230 something each side) did bmw just raise up the cost???