transmission/problem q&a
 

Hi,

Just bought a 2003 X5, 3.0i automatic transmission.

I am bringing it back to the dealer for some service (any comments I appreciate of course, we are all gentlemen here).

#1, when driving, at roughly 2000 rpm, there is a whistle that comes from the engine, in sync with when I push the gas pedal. (could be a bearing on tensioner or on the belt drive).

#2, when looking from the outside of the car at the rear view mirror, it seems that something is ungluing/peeling off on the windshield.

#3, when the driver side window is lowered to more than half way, there is a rattle inside the door. It sounds as if there is something loose. Also, when the car is on the highway, the rattle is more apparent.

#4, when the blower fan (for the HVAC) is on, it at times makes noise as is if is muffling or that the motor is forcing. This is an intermittent problem and goes on and off. I had the same problem on my 323ci 2000, and the blower motor was defective.



Now, I am reading problems with transmission, window regulators and water pumps? How do I detect these to advise them I have a problem?

I have 62 000km on the car. It would be a good idea to change the tranny oil and filter? What can go wrong?

Any other problems I should advise.

Thanks

1) If the engine noise changes pitch in synch with the engine speed, then I would be looking around the belts/tensioners for the noise. The dealer should be able to track it down. Determine if it goes away when warm, and figure out how to reproduce it for the dealer.

2) No idea.

3) The window regulator stops working, it doesn't rattle AFAIK. The rattle is more likely the unintended result of a previous repair to change a window regulator. The dealer should be able to take the trim panel off and see what is rattling.

4) May be related to the final stage resistor.

We all have different opinions, and this is just mine, but I wouldn't touch the transmission fluid at 62,000 km. That is under 40,000 miles, and if you really want to change the transmission fluid do it at twice that distance, at a minimum. I wouldn't touch it myself, as changing it can cause as many problems as it solves. The transmission failures that have been reported here have little to do with burnt fluid, and a lot to do with electronic sensor failures, control modules, etc. Those particular components don't benefit from new transmission fluid. The downside of changing the transmission fluid is that any dirt/particulate matter is disturbed, and can find its way into the transmission valve body. YMMV.

thanks
 

Thanks for the answer. I get my car serviced here in montreal and they are very good.

What do you think about adding Lucas oil conditioner for the transmission. I would just add half a liter? After reading all the posts about transmission problems, I'M FREAKEN OUT!!!! Though, you make a good point with the dirt issue. You suggest to change it at 80 000km?

I have 46k miles on my 4.6 and I just had vacmotorsports perform a service where all fulids were changed (trans, diffs, transfer, oil). I believe in preventative maintenance. I don't really agree with that smack about waiting until 100,00 miles to change diff and trans fluids. The stealers also recommend that you change oil every 10,000 would you do that??? As lond as the fluids are properly drained (could take 45 minutes for full drain) and filled by a PROFESSIONAL you should be fine.

does it run better?
 

I have 46k miles on my 4.6 and I just had vacmotorsports perform a service where all fulids were changed (trans, diffs, transfer, oil). I believe in preventative maintenance. I don't really agree with that smack about waiting until 100,00 miles to change diff and trans fluids. The stealers also recommend that you change oil every 10,000 would you do that??? As lond as the fluids are properly drained (could take 45 minutes for full drain) and filled by a PROFESSIONAL you should be fine.


Does it run better? Any differences? Did they put in original BMW transmission oil?

I would not add any oil conditioner, ever. There are no additives for oil or transmission fluid that will ever make it into one of my vehicles. Coolant conditioner, and fuel stabilizer, yes. If the oil needs more additives it needs changing, and conversely, if it doesn't need changing it doesn't need additives.

You note that you are reading about a lot of transmission problems, but it is still a relatively small percentage of vehicles IMO. It gets lots of press here and on other boards. If you are worrying about it, start saving for a $4000 CDN transmission job at 150,000 km. Those are just guesses, but it seems to be about the cost of a rebuilt transmission, and it is just before the 100,000 mile mark that many suggest is an average failure point for the BMW automatic transmission. Better to stop worrying and enjoy the vehicle.

I didn't suggest 80,000 km; if you are going to do it though then that is as good as any other mileage. The reason that I recommend not changing the transmission fluid is that there are no byproducts of combustion to contaminate it, like an engine. It is a sealed system. All that happens is the fluid can get burnt, and/or worn band and clutch material can precipitate out. Fluid burning as a cause of failure (as opposed to being a sympton of a failed mechanical part) is far less of an issue since lock-up torque converters came out years ago, temperatures are down in general due to faster and crisper shifts. The band and clutch material wears, and is caught in the internal screen filter. Draining an automatic transmission is nothing like draining a diff, transfer case, or mechanical gearbox, you can't get it all out as the fluid is in the torque converter, clutches, valve body, cooler, lines, and transmission pan. You have to flush it. That can disturb the sediment in the filter and throughout the system, and cause resulting blockages in the valve body (which has a lot of very small passageways). It is those blockages that actually cause a subsequent failure in many cases, not the transmission fluid.

Clean fluid is good, no debate. If the actions required to install it bring about other risks, however, a judgement has to be made.

If you want to change other BMW lifetime fluids, go for it. The diffs and transfer case are straightforward. Let them fully drain, and use OEM fluid. It may or may not extend the life, but it certainly can't hurt. Oil changes are hard to argue with, it is like debating motherhood. The only contentious point seems to be whether the factory intervals are too long or not (I follow them, as I believe in preventative maintenance. That includes the mileage intervals as well as the time intervals) Also, there are scheduled fluid changes (brake fluid, coolant) that are very important; I suggest you stay on top of these ones.

Good luck

Jeff

Here is the quick and short answers only BMW fluids were used except I believe the Trans fluid which I believe Redline fluid was used. When it comes to fluids you have to be very careful and most techs (whether they're employed by the stealer or private mechanics only recommend BMW fluids). My X drivers great since the fluid changes, of course I just had it done about 100 miles ago. I hope and pray that I don't have any failures but if I do I will obviously use this forum to vent.