FYI on CV boot replacement Short-cut...
 

Finally I had to replace a torn outer CV Boot on my 74K mile X5. I found an easier way to remove the outer Joint and repair the boot. This only applies to the front outer boot and only if you are just trying to repair the boot and not remove the entire shaft. The write up on here says to remove the whole spindle assembly including all suspension components, steering arm, control arms, etc.... But I found that if you just unbolt the calipers, remove the rotors and unbolt and remove the shock. You can get this done. With the previous parts removed the CV shaft has enough room to be removed using a gear puller. Then follow the steps in the write up. Save the time of removing some hard to reach and hard to remove bolts. Just thought I'd share...;)

great information. Thanks:thumbup:

What do you mean "repair? the CV boot?

Do you mean replace?

Replace a torn boot with a new replacement boot from BMW.

Rob: I just had my Indy replace both boots for $300. Good deal or bad?

It's $60ish for two boots. Thats $240 for labor. If your handy save the cash. Are they on the same side?

Are there pictures of what a torn boot looks like? I am starting to hear some clicking sounds as I go over speed bumps. Where do you get the replacement boots?

Never mind on the picture of a bad CV boot. I found it.

http://www.xoutpost.com/images/articl...ot/1.sized.jpg



Where do you buy the replacements? It looks like a interesting project to give a try. :)

so is removing the bearing BAD or not? I am hearing conflicting information, please see this post.

How would a BMW mechanic approach this job?

Shortcut sounds good, but just as involved. So to me it sounds like their are two options on replacing the outer boot.

Approach from outer boot side - must remove bearing (which supposedly may be bad idea due to no anti-seize), outer cv boot kit is sufficient.

Approach from inner boot side - risk ripping inner boot, must get additional CV grease if re-using boot. This will not require removing the bearing for the outer cv joint. This sounds like it may actually take longer.

What do you all think?

I think I'm getting raped...they're charging me $400 to do 1 boot, just the boot, no new shaft...

Kind of screwed now since I dropped the car off already and they didnt give me an estimate until now...

I got quoted today by local reputable indy mechs, they told me 300 with me providing the part. I think I am going to give it a go.

they charged me $40 for the boot, the rest was labor and taxes.

If you disconnect the shock assembly from the spindle you need to have the alignment done. Don't forget to add that to the cost. If you leave the shock attached and disconnect the lower control arms and the sway bar only the alignment is uneffected.

Good point, I got an alignment done after and they couldn't get the camber within spec, but it's only .3 degrees off...should I go back and b!tch to the mechanic?

i disconnected steering tie rod, lower control arms, sway bar, and swivel bearing assembly along with half axle at the inner joint.

I took it to my local guy. Said if one boot went the others won't be far behind. He told me to order the entire shaft assembly. It contains both inner and outer boots and is only $40 more. So I went to partgeeks.com and ordered them. Cost me $185 shipped. He's going to charge me $240 ( Labor ) to replace both right and left axles. A steal I think. Call your dealer before ordering. My 2001 take the 29mm diameter. The newer models I was told are 27mm diameter. Both are available at this link. 2001 BMW X5 Axle Assembly - Driveshaft & Axle - EMPI, FEQ, Front Left, Front Right, Rear - PartsGeek