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HOW TO CONNECT eBay BACKUP CAMERA TO NAVI
Hi guys, does any one knows how to conect one of eBay chinc backup cameras to original bmw 16:9 navi display without any expensive video interface modules? I hear somewhere that is posible to conect it directly to display...:rolleyes:
Thanks in advance... I had one of those on my E39 conected to custom double din radio with 6" display and it worked great. once i visited BMW dealer for service and guys overthere were amazed with picture quality and resolution. they said it is lot bether than original X5 backup camera. it is also 100 times cheaper :thumbup: thx |
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THAT WAS WHAT I TOUGHT, BUT SELLER WHO SELLS VIDEO MODULES, DVD CHANGERS, TV MODULES AND INTERFACE TOLD ME THAT I DONT NEED IT. HE SAID IT IS GOIN DIRECTLY TO DISPLAY?! ANY ONE KNOWS SOMETHING ABOUT THIS??? SCHEMATICS???
THANKS..... |
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They keep teling me that every X5 with 16:9 navi is already prepared for backupcamere, ypu just need to plug it in. BUT WHERE???
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Thought Id resurrect this thread instead of starting a new one.
Looking at installing one on mine. 00 X5 with 4:3 Nav. And of course the seller says it plugs and plays. here is what Im looking to get click can anyone direct me to a specific video tuner or a part#? Thanks |
TTT
I was told I *should* have a video tuner in the trunk. can anyone direct me how to find it or what it looks like? |
It's hidden vertically next to the spare wheel plastic (Silver box underneath your Nav DVD and CD stacker)
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Do you see a the TV tuner anywhere here?
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/288ff21b.jpg http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/2c88d14e.jpg http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/ee61f253.jpg |
Mate open up the right hand side panel and put your hand down into the pocket, that is how deep the left hand side is as well. The TV tuner is (well mine is) mounted vertically deep in that pocket, below all of the Nav an stacked stuff, you'll have pull the nav/stacker mounts out to get to it.
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Mine was under the spare wheel.
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z168 - maybe take out the spare wheel first and check that it's not there like Tymatyk's as if it is that'll save you a lot of dicking around |
I just got my 4.8is not too long ago and the PO had a backup camera on the license plate mounted. I've noticed a couple of things and I want to know what's the norm or fix.
1. When my vehicle is off and doors closed, screen is off (as it should be). When I press the unlock button and open the door, the screen "comes on" but nothing is displayed. It does shut off though eventually if I don't actually start it. I was told this is normal. I would have thought normal would be that it came on and the BMW logo would show. 2. Whenever I put it in reverse, the screen goes blank. Meaning, I'm driving with the radio on or whatever, then put it in reverse to back into a parking spot or my garage, the screen goes blank. It looks just like above. It's technically "on" but nothing is displayed. So I'm thinking that the camera has to be connected, otherwise it wouldn't go blank. It just may be connected wrong??? |
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Thanks. I will do that. I will take pics as well |
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Was snooping around in the spare wheel and found that mine is actually under the spare wheel as well, was mistaken with something else under the nav stuff.
You need to remove that bell housing (air pump housing) and its in under there http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/a...f/455144ce.jpg The silver box on the left is something else - what you're looking for is next to it, you don't need to remove the battery but you do need to remove the casing - it is held in with 3 phillips head screws |
The silver box is for the radio. I was meant to reply yesterday but i think there is a bug in Xoutpost, just couldn't reply to nothing.
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I don't get it. Do you just buy the camera and plug it in? Other threads showed a much more complex process.
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No, its not a simple plug n play.
Don't believe what China Ebayer says, they've got no idea. You'll need to buy something similar to this BMW AV ADAPTER, AUX INPUT, CAMERA, E46, E39, X5 E53 | eBay .... (i think ECS has them for cheaper) which you can plug into the TV tunner. Along with that harness comes a Reverse cam input and a reverse cam trigger wire. A lot of mucking around, running the wires in the hatch of the X5 .....etc. |
there are 4 ways:
1. your car has TV module or you install TV module (~$200-$400). then power camera from relay and connect it to TV module. there is a backup camera pin on tv module to switch video input. 2. you install video switch module from BMW (designed for backup camera functionality without TV tuner) 3. you install not-OEM video module that is connected to OEM navigation ~$200 on eBay 4. you install not-OEM head/navigation (like Hooligan) with built in rear camera input. |
Ok I don't have TV.
Cooluserid, option two looks like it fits my bill. Which part do I need? Please advise. I'd really appreciate instruction that fit my order if you can. Thanks. |
You can read detailed instructions:
Backup camera install write-up... |
Some backup cam install threads and links
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...stalled-2.html http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...up-camera.html Step-bu-step instructions by member ncx Backup Cam Wiring through tailgate http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ound-wire.html http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...amera-kit.html |
Dont tap the camera into the reverse light, there is a slot in the TV tuner harness that was designed to trigger the screen to switch to rear view cam as soon as you engaged reverse.
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Ok, so this must be the 20th time I see those links. Now though, I am starting to figure some things out.
I have come to the conclusion that I need to get back there, and see what is actually installed, and which parts I need to get. The kits in those links are not available. So I think I am screwed going that route. I see this relay thing everywhere, so going to get that. I guess I will resurrect this after I get in the trunk and see what is installed. Thanks all for those links. At least they are all in one place now. My head really hurts after reading all this. Did I ever mention I don't like doing wiring stuff? Well now I did. |
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You picked the wrong project then |
Does the Dynavin or any of new Nav units take backup cam feed?
The new AVIC units from Pioneer do. |
The Dynavin unit accepts a composite video input for the rear view camera. Same on the Hualingan units as well.
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Ok so camping for the 4th. Had a min to take out the trunk area. Looks like this is not my X's first time with someone messing with the crap in the trunk.
Can someone tell me if this is the video module that I need to connect my backup camera too? I am about to buy navtool. Only concern I have with that is I want to try and keep everything stock. If this is not the module I need. I guess I really don't have much choice. Thanks in advance. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8...2860325792.jpg I am talking about the long unit toward the bottom of the screen. Thanks. |
it looks like a Sirius radio unit is placed into the TV tuner slot, with the portion of the plastic cover cut-out, just as one of the Sirius DIY suggests. The sirius and the TV module can not occupy the same spot at the same time, the TV tuner usually takes the whole cavity, while some folks managed to neatly tuck away the Sirius module where you have the tow module. In this case, you will need to get either a full blown TV tuner, or a special reverse camera module. the module is smaller in size but I am not so sure if the sirius and the smaleer module can co-exist in the same slot. If you get the full tuner, stick it into the properly designated spot, then you will need to figure where to stick the sirius, as the tow module is getting in the way of the new spot for sirius. Maybe the tow module can be relocated, but that is a factory harness that will need to be modified for the tow module... geee... my head is spinning... is the small module available on the market?
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Thanks for the reply. Yea I going to get the nav tool. Just waiting for sellers paypal to finalize the deal. I pulled that thing out and confirmed it's the Sirius module. Man did I break a sweat today. The tow harness deal is in the way too and not much room to move it out of the way.
Yes the small module is available but not worth it just for the camera. The navtool is just a much better option right now. I don't want to take sat radio out, and modifying that harness would be a nightmare. That's like 40 wires in that thing. Plus I can get DVD with navtool. I guess I'll keep this going with my progress. Thanks again. |
Yea, please let us know what you did with the sirius - I have the TV tuner and thinking about the sirius module, but I also will have the tow package installed in the new 4.8iS, so I wonder where you will manage your sat module at... toys, toys, toys...
do you know about the rubmw.ru site, where you can check your factory installed options just by doing the last 7 of the VIN? very cool site... lol... |
No I don't know the site. I'm actually Russian. Thanks. Let me know when you are ready for serius. I might get rid of it down the line. I am currently finding myself not using radio at all. But not really sure I want to dump the sat radio. Yea running out of space for the toys. Lol.
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here is another thing - it seemed that the factory also was envisioning a front camera, in addition to the rear view camera - i can't think of a link, but it was on the forums, someone either got it retrofitted or had the original specs.
you can tell, the cameras were expensive then, like the flat screen LCDs, so the factory solution was to run a V-shaped mirror/prism to achive left/right view of the sides of the car. Now they just stick two cameras on either of the fenders and call it done... What I wonder, if there is a video software that can fuse three video images into one video output to achieve the "new" bird-eye view... In other words, have a camera from left of the car (say, mounted in the left mirror), regular rear camera and the camera from the right mirror send three video feeds to a "box", and then from the "box" we get the fused video feed that is fed into the rear view camera input in the Tv module. What the "box" will do is to take an image from side camera, crop it accordingly, also crop the middle camera and then have all three aligned together - basically same thing that the OEM topview does now. |
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5 cameras, eh?... interesting... If you are from russia, you probably know, a lot of folks in russia are using the cameras/dvrs to record the traffic... I wish it would have taken a deeper root here, that would have brought the prices down and the options up...
sometimes you need a proof that someone cut you off and the swerving that you did was not because you reached for that radio button but that is stepping into another domain,losely related to rear camera... lol... |
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Honestly haven't been there in 9 years, but still have contacts. Really not used to Russian crap anymore. Last time I went, I said thank god for America. |
hahaha... i was there couple of years ago, had my 4.6iS with me... They insisted on reading the motor number, and to do that, tore half of the top of the engine bay off, then slapped things half a$$ed together and within a week the car started to overheat until it totally blew all the gaskets and dropped all of its "blood" on Volokalamskoe shosse in -40 degrees!!! I hate it!!! Besides bugging the car with the mikes and GPS tracker... well, eventually, their gov-t kicked me out the country!!! hahaha... payback is a bitch, even though i can't go against the huge gov-t machine, i guess i did something right... something right by the US, i mean... lol...
Hey, on the factory TV module, have you installed (or, will you install?) the AV input/output and the TV Search button in the rear of the center console? |
When I went last time, they wouldn't let me stay with family. I had to rent a hotel. Then the hotel took away my passport for the time I was there, and I swear someone was following me. I don't even have the slightest of clues as to why. My only theory is they were looking for my uncle, who we don't know where he is either.
I am not going with the factory AV. I am getting the nav tool, and then go with the DVD for the back rests. The factory TV tuner should not work anymore. All digital now. |
That's right, I keep forgetting that the digital in the US not the same as digital elsewhere. Since my car is travelling with me, i keep the factory tuner just in case, even though never cared for a broadcast TV anyways - except in Costa Rica, they broadcast X-rated stuff between midnight and 4 am - that was unexpected!!!! hahaha...
I was talking about these two parts: 61 31 8 368 345 and 61 31 8 368 346 |
Anyone know where i can connect the reverse trigger signal wire to?
I've got this wire loom that allow me to have AV input into the TV which i tested and worked really well with a DVD player. http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/992...0707180055.jpg Along with it is a Reverse Cam input and a TRIGGER wire that when i engaged reverse, the TV screen will automatically switch to rear CAM but I have got no idea where to connect it to. http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/5...0707180119.jpg When I connect the Reverse Cam video output to AV, it works, i can see the back of the car . http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/1...0707175529.jpg When I connect the Reverse Cam video output to the actual input for Reverse Cam in the loom, connect the Trigger wire to the positive wire of the Reverse Light, as soon as I engaged R, the TV screen switch to a different screen as well but it only blinker, what's my problem here ... ? * Is it possible that i've connect the Trigger wire to the wrong wire? Instead of Reverse Light positive, it should goes else where? * Is there such a Reverse Signal wire in the BMW standard loom in the trunk somewhere that i need to connect the Trigger wire to? Once i've got this sorted, the next step would be to install an intelligent reverse control module that works with OBDII to get the Park Distance line to move with the steering angle sensor. Thank you |
Based on what I have read, the power sent to the reverse light is in pulses, which may explain your flicker. You need to use a relay and pull power directly from the battery.
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Do you have PDC installed?
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Terminator, do you know where they tapped the pdc signal for your camera setup. I really like that idea too.
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i used the pin 7 on the middle plug in the PDC controller - I forgot what official number for that plug is. I did my research back in 2007, when I connected it - so, my memory fails me now as to, why I chose that particular pin...
however, that pin supplies i think (+) signal, enough to feed a small, tiny Radio shack relay that throws a (-) to the trigger wire. If you have the PDC and a Voltmeter, get to the pin 7 of the middle plug (there are 3 plugs on the PDC), measure voltage, then turn on the PDC button on the console, and see if you are picking up (+) or (-)... I think it is (+). Then, get yourself a relay (I will have to dig it up and see what model it is), and wire the (+) from pin 7 to the coil of the relay, which will trigger the (-) to the camera trigger wire - as a result, you will have the rear camera come on everytime the PDC is activated. I had my camera ON at all the times (ignition hot), so, there was no delay when I threw reverse gear on. The drawback is that when the speed signal shuts off the PDC, you can not have the reverse camera on at 60 MPH!!! As I am in the process of wiring the 4.8iS (the new ride), I got myself a license plate light camera with a wireless sender/receiver unit - maybe that will save me on ripping the trim to run a wire to the battery compartment. I was also hoping to avoid splicing into the wire for pin 7 by getting a custom made harness (get a pin terminal and a pin socket) but I found the pin socket plug and can't find the pin terminal plug... So, maybe I will have to splice again (4.6iS has it spliced) |
Good stuff. Going to try and do same. Thanks.
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Пожалуйста... you are welcome
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Спасибо Огромное.
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I just started working on the wireless license plate camera, that I got recently off ebay. before plunging into the full install, i was going to test wireless range, so i connected the whole getup to the power to see what happens. unfortunately, it seems that the wireless module, that supposed to take power and pass it on to the camera, does not pass the power. I tested the camera, it works, but i can't test the wireless tranmission as the transmitter seems not to function. i already contacted the seller to see what the resolution might be.
Separate from that issue, as was noted in the forums, the license plate camera does not fit into the light openning of the car, as the E53 has only a clear lid for the light opening, and the light bulb is sitting on a component board, that is an integral part of the hatch handle and the other light. Also, it might be problematic to fish the camera cables through the tiny openning for the plug for the license plate lights, the one that is going inside the hatch. So, as of this moment, the license plate light camera is still an unresolved issue. |
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Got mine from a company call Connect2. Very close to standard YET still required some trimming. You'll need to drill a hole to feed AV cables through, wire the light to the license plate light. |
I read of this cam issue not fitting. I either going to mount it to the plate frame, or right above it somehow.
I also read that the wireless cams suck insanely, and the transmission doesn seem to pass through the car. |
Ty, I am not sure if I am following your chain of thought - if your car is equipped with the PDC, the PDC can be activated either by pushing the button on the console manually, or by putting the gear in reverse, automatically. When the gear is in reverse, the reverse lights are activating, more to let other people know that you are backing up then to shine light onto your backup path. The reverse llights only activate when the gear is in reverse (also, for the "follow-me-home" mode), so if the camera is wired to the reverse lights, it will only activate when the gear is in reverse. Same goes for the PDC, it is activated when the gear is in reverse... So, logically, the camera is active when the gear is in reverse, either via the reverse lights or the PDC...
this is my logical view on camera actication - but I would like to hear other views, maybe my view is not the best... Instead of drilling the car and risking rust in the future, I will rather cut and redo the camera wires to feed the wires through existing opening and will figure out the placement into the license lilght opening... In my previous install, I cut a small hole in the plastic next to the license plate light and camera was there with no problems for several years - I will take a pic and post it later. The llicense light camera looks much cleaner and more stock then the one I had on my 4.6is. I haven't tested the wireless camera, so I have no say on that, but worse case scenario, I'll just run the video feed to the battery compartment - done that before, no biggy deal. there was a point, when I was thinking about rigging the car with multiple cameras, one for inside view, several for outside views, and run those cameras through a "DVR"-like setup via a carPC - after seeing a few videos on youtube about the cops being less than nice to motoring public. I even got an 8-channel USB converter but never got anywhere with project. CarPC is still on the back burner, even though I got the PC, the CIS-IBUS unit - but then life got in the way, and I had to trade the 528i for the new 4.8is... lol... |
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here is a pic of the camera on the E53 X5 4.6iS. It is a bit rusty, as that camera has been on the car since 2008, and endured tropical rains of Latin America and harsh winter of Russia...
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Hi
I see what you meant. My car has front PCD as well, i was thinking that if front PCD active, this might trigger the CAM as well but since running the trigger wire to reverse light, this should be fine. Also if you notice, according to BMW motorsport pdf guide of how to install their reverse cam, they also recommend to drill a hole. If you guys want, i can take picture of the whole process once i get hold of a relay. Thanks |
Got the navtool. Have to pick a camera now. I want 2 cameras. One for front, and one for rear. This thing came with a nasty looking toggle switch to be able to use the second input, going to replace that with a momentary button. Supposed to be able to cycle from rear ( which is automatic) to front, the factory nav. Can't wait to get this runing.
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So i'm going to get a Bosch Relay.
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/3623/boschrelay.jpg * Constant power PIN i will try to find a 12V ignition. (Plus a 20 or 30amp fuse) * Negative will be anywhere on the body of the car, in the trunk. * Reverse light positive (pulse signal) to Relay * Pin to Trigger wire (this pin will get a constant 12v from the PIN that get constant power) So basically once i start the car, Relay get power. The moment i engage reverse, pulse signal trigger Relay, Relay let power through and to Trigger wire. Is this how it should be done? Also i'm not too sure if the Bosch one might draw too much power since it's 30Amp? Thanks |
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I used this relay - it takes 12V DC, very little draw as the coil is tiny, even a signal 12V can hold the relay, and then the contacts apply the ground to the trigger wire of the factory TV module, which is a small draw as all it is a signal ground for internal circuitry inside the module... bosch relays are for some heavy duty equipment, and the white papers should list the amount of amperage that is needed in order to hold the coil - the relay itself might be using too little or too much power.
My relay is using fraction of power (I lost the white papers long time ago for the relay), and the contacts are able to switch up to 120V circuitry,which is more than enough for the small electronics... |
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the camera itself does not get hot, the little module with the camera electronics did not get hot either (that camera has a small box that is separate from the little bubble with optics, that box is the one handling electronic part of the camera). That camera was wired directly to hot ignition with an inline fuse, I have to look to see what the fuse was, some small tiny fuse for a quarter of an amp or something, even less... the trigger wire does not need to be on a fuse, and technically, you can tie it to any metal nut - i had mine going via the relay to the grounding point at the back of the spare tire compartment, to the back on the right side, there were several wires tied into a ground.
In my particular case, since 4,6iS did not have original Angel Eyes, and I retrofitted them, the PDC would get interference from the aftermarket AEs, so I ran a separate wire from the AEs to the same relay for the camera, and when the relay was engaged via the pin 7 of the PDC module, I had several things taking place at the same time: Gear is in reverse PDC activated - factory standard Relay activated by the pin 6 from PDC relay would provide ground to trigger wire trigger wire will send picture from camera to the front screen same action from relay will cut power from AEs in the front, thus no more interference with PDC in front. Since my new ride, the 4.8iS has factory AEs, I don't need to worry about cutting power to AE. did any of this make any sense? |
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here is the data shhets for the relay. in US Digikey should have them in stock. if you are placing an order from Digikey, I would strongly recommend ordering about a 100 of A28327-NDWill come handy in various BMW projects...
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looking good... really like a factory set up, even though I think the factory cameras are a bit too bulky than what you have - yours is slim...
is this camera fused together with the license plate light? I think I see LED light to the left on the picture... What modifications to the light opening have you made, if any? How is the image? the angle of the image? are you able to see the bumper line? My old camera could have been adjusted on all three axes, so I could have rotated image (physically rotating bubble), bent the holder, etc... can you adjust this camera? Some people install the camera to see the towing hitch when they back up for a trailer, my concern was a boatload of little kids in the area that had nasty habits of running after their balls right under the moving car... lol... |
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The camera itself is fused to the trunk lock mechanism (Ignition on). I need to cut/trim the plastic a bit for it to fit into the number plate light, lucky it was made with soft plastic. This mean i had to remove the original number plate light and it's contents. Image is in my previous post (via AV input as i haven't had a chance to get hold of a Relay yet). Angle of the Cam, i'm not sure yet but i don't think i will be able to see the tow hitch and the Cam is not adjust/rotatable. Its a project i took on for the fun of it, what i might do next is to get a really good CAM (True CCD), use intelligent line module control via OBDII where the line will turn accordant to the steering wheel sensor/angle. |
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It looks good. But I am not so happy about cutting up that strip. I am pretty sure I will just go with a plate cam, or something I can stick above the plate, but to the body. Not for nothing that looks good.
Terminator, that setup would be epic to install. Deff something way beyond my wiring capabilities. |
Not sure about the difficulty level for installation, just running the wires and building some suitable housing for the cameras, BUT...
But the price of admission!!! Hardware Platforms - logiVIEW-SVK it is about 7,500 euros, so about $10K!!! Of course, it is just one place - I hope that with time, that technology will become mainstream, and the prices will come down drastically as it is good not only for parking but also for the blind spots around the car going at 60 MPH... My first VCR was about $300 at Wal-Mart back in 1991 - now you can get DVD player for $30... BTW, why are always coming back to 60MPH? like nobody goes faster, or what???? |
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Got the Relay (not a solid-state one) and i can't seem to get it to work.
This is the Relay diagram http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9...0714165127.jpg Pin lay out http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1...0714165202.jpg Screen still flicking ... http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/2...0714165030.jpg What i had was ...' 30 = Constant 12V 87 = Vehicle Chassis 85 = Reverse light +12 86 = Trigger wire Screen still flickering so i changed 85/86 around the still the same thing. Then i look at this Backup Cam Most others use the Bosch Mini Relay but i suspect there is nothing wrong with the one that i have BUT what i noticed is that they all DON"T need a good 12+ to the relay and even use the 12+ from the Reverse Light (???), isn't this suppose to produce Pulse Signals? |
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This suppose to work????? (Taken from previous post)
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/7735/relay1.jpg |
Yup that's the relay diagram i see everywhere too. I think once the reverse is on, it no longer pulses.
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Mission accomplished.
Thanks to this Pin Out Diagram ... http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/4/bmwtvtuner.gif The Ebay seller had my trigger wire tagged with + plus so all this time i've been trying to get a + current going through it ..... until today, i've had enough so i stripped everything down again .... started from scratch. Anyway, there are so many wiring diagrams going around, don't follow any of them. Best is to understand what sort of Relay do you have and most importantly, the TV needs a Ground/Earth signal for it to switch over, over-ride everything, even when the TV screen is OFF. You won't need a good +12, you don't need direct power source from the battery if you're using the standard TV. Simple! In the case if a 3 pin Relay is use .... *Reverse light positive (+) to Relay *Reverse light (-) to Relay *(If you use 4pins relay, the extra pin will also need to be connect to a neg) *Relay to Trigger wire So when you engage reverse, reverse light + will activate Relay, Relay Jump/Bridge Reverse light Neg to Trigger wire, TV screen change to receive Video input from Reverse Cam. Reverse Cam can be wire to any good 12+ sources on the vehicle, pending on where you're mounting the cam. |
Post #50 is updated/edited for the correct pin number. Pin #7.
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Oh man i've been doing some reading to figure this out.
If someone can help answer a few Q's please. I have everything connected to the tv tuner and have a white wire coming out saying 'camera +12v'. I have splice yellow/white and brown in the trunk hatch. So i have a yellow/white and a brown from the car I have a white from the tuner wiring I have a red and a black coming out from the back of the camera - i dont know where these go. Is purple pink the wire for the reverse lights or is it the yellow white? I think I need a relay - what does it do? This is where I am stuck, I dont know what to attach to what to make it all work. I read THIS POST and I think I am pretty close to finishing the whole job with a little help from you guys. Please help Dubs |
hello there, mate!!!
have you looked at this post too? http://www.xoutpost.com/electronics/...-problems.html first, lets see, what equipment you have: you mentioned a TV module.. is it an Original BMW analog or analog/digital (hybrid) TV Tuner module? Do you have a factory Navigation system? you did not list the year and model of your car, so I would assume that you have an E53 with navigation - please confirm... :) Are you able to snap some pictures of your equipment and post them? The color of wires inside the car may not be as relevant, as the colors of the wire maybe different from country to country, from year to year... If you have patience, we will get this thing up and running for you... |
I'll get some more details tonight, thanks
2005 e53 x5 4.4 rhd All bmw factory gear factory nav tv - with digital Im pretty sure this is the one i bought BMW AV ADAPTER, AUX INPUT, CAMERA, E46, E39, X5 E53 | eBay Dubs |
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Thanks for the feedback, i have especially read THIS POST carefully and I am trying to make sense of things, me not having an electrical understanding or background does not help me, but i'm keen to learn and try.
I'll see what I can manage thanks Dubs |
Mate,
I looked at the harness that you have bought from the ebay and I am not so sure it is the actual harness to connect the rear camera - this harness has one yellow RCA plug, normally yellow is reserved for video, one white and one red RCA plugs, they are normally reseerved for stereo audio and the OE TV module does NOT have STEREO audio, it is only MONO, and then you have a black plug, which might be for the reverse camera. I am not saying that it will not work, it might - please, when you take pictures of this wire loom, make sure that the labels are clearly visible. Even then, there is no guarantee that the maker of this loom has connected the correct wires to the correct pins - the OE tuner has Audio/Video IN, which is 2 cables/4 wires, and it also has Audio/Video OUT which is 2 cables/4 wires, it also has Reverse camera IN, which is 1 cable/2 wires and it has a trigger wire that comes from a different plug - only a single wire. So, for the rear camera to function properly, you will need to have a camera, that should have 2 wires for the power (+) and (-), and 2 wires/1 cable for the video OUT, and then you need to utilize the rear camera input on the TV module, 1 cable/2 wires for rear camera IN, and the trigger wire that needs to be grounded when the car is in reverse gear. Usually folks are making their own wiring/cabling, but lets work with what you already have purchased - since I can't fly down under to take a look at your stuff, do the pictures, and we will take it from there... ciao, mate... |
He has the correct harness, i have the same one in my car and it works, hence why i asked him to read my previous posts carefully ...... but he can buy the same thing for cheaper from ECS or other places.
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Hi guys being a one car family time is tight, I finally got some pics.
I have re read posts, especially post 50 and it is making a little more sense. Mine is are similar to Termiantor's wiring i think. I only have 2 wires leaving the unit, the whit one and the camera IN plug. If anyone has the time to guide me or point to a post or 2 I'd appreciate it. I have no idea what the back and white plugs are from the wiring loom, Can someone tell me how I can use them too? Thanks Dubs |
the camera has a light in it for the number plate.
It has a red and a black wire, and 1 yellow and 1 black plugs coming out of it Dubs |
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I just went up to the auto shop and bought 2 relays, which would be the one to use?
Dubs |
you said that the camera has a light for the license plate - did you pop the lens cover off the license plate light? does that camera fit in the space available?
i am not so sure about the current flow on the coils of those relays - the one with resistor shunts some of the current - the reason i am so picky about current is due to the fact that the coils are tapped into other circuitry not designed for additional flow of current... that is why i am using relay with 37.5 mA coil amperage. there is another one, for 17 ma, which would be better, but i was too lazy to find one... the 37.5 mA was bought at a Radio Shack... there is a spec sheet in previous posts... |
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Yellow plug is for Camera out ..... feeding picture to your Screen. Black plug is to power Camera. There should be another plug that come separate with the camera, plug that into the black plug, the other is just small Red/Black wires, again, just + & - |
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You will need to remember ..... The Relay acts as a middle man. It takes Reverse signal from your reverse light, then allow the negative current (any neg) to flow through to the White wire that came with your Reverse Cam Harness that you bought on Ebay so that the screen can jump over to the reverse cam mode. |
Did digital TV came with your car as a standard option?
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Dubs |
is your camera "plug-n-play" for the license plate light opening? Or, you need to modify something?
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Ok, SUPER close now, I wired it up to the relay as advised and the cam switches properly when put into reverse.
Now it's flickering madly when the engine is on and slowly flickering when the engine is off but in reverse with accessories on. Any advice? Dubs |
Re-reading, when I say as advised I mean as per the picture of the relay with the wires labelled that's earlier in the thread.
This may be wrong in reading post 80 by Ty. Dubs |
reverse lights are not plain 12 VDC applied to the bulbs, it is a Pulse Modulated Wave, that is coming from the LCM in order to mionitor the status of the light bulbs - as a result, the pulsed voltage applied via relay will flicker the screen.
Do you have a factory PDC installed in your car? |
yes front and rear
hmmm....SO does your post above mean I've got the pulsed 12v from the reverse lights instead of a steady 12v from somewhere else? Dubs |
the PDC module is located under the spare tire in the battery compartment, next to the BM radio, and it has 3 plugs. The middle plug has multiple pins, and the Pin #7 supplies signal voltage to the green light in the front of the car in the button module in the center console. When PDC is engaged, the green light on the PDC button lights up via Pin #7 on the middle plug - the voltage and amperage are very low, and that pin supplies (+) voltage.
If you will take that (+) signal and convert it via a low voltage/low amperage relay to a (-) ground, and apply that (-) signal to the wire for the reverse signal, you will have the reverse camera engaging everytime when the PDC is engaged. It also will give you an ability to activate the camera by pressing the PDC button on the center console switch panel (module A169). there is a drawing of that connection somewhere on this forum, rather easy to accomplish if you have a factory PDC - only one tap to pin 7, one relay and reliable ground. So, if you tap into Pin #7 on the middle plug on the PDC module, apply that signal to a coil of a relay, and have relay contact apply ground to the reverse camera wire off the TV module, you are done... |
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It make more sense to use the PCD wiring to wire up your reverse cam if you have the time. |
Cool, I'll give it a try, thanks
Dubs |
do you have a picture of your actual camera?
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will grab one in an hour so after work
Dubs |
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Stoopid work getting in theway of my DIY.
here's a pic of the cam, I am hoping to have it fully installed this weekend too. Dubs |
This is what I thought that your camera will look like...
Have you tried to fit it into the license plate light opening yet? If it fits nice and snug, please post pictures of how you did it - otherwise, you might be in for some cutting of the light circuit board, that is under the license plate light cover lens... Also, when you have the camera's light connected for the license plate illumination, you might (or might not!!) have to program the Cold Monitoring of the lilght circuit to be turned off. Well, we'll cross that bridge once you are there... |
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Hackety hack went my weekend.
It's not going to fit, the camera is too deep for the space where the factory license plate light fits. Oh well, at least most of the wiring is done, any thoughts on an alternate? I am thinking something like THIS or THIS. Q: in the PDC i tap #7, on which colour connector? Blue black or white? Can anyone assist with what parts to get to replace the hacked bits? Will it be just 27 as a package or 27-31? Ta Dubs |
in my other X5 I have used this camera Reverse Backup CHEAPER Color Camera 170Ί Night Vision Car Rear View | eBay .
On the PDC module, there are three plugs, pin #7 from the MIDDLE plug, it is black. |
check post #59 in this same thread, you will see a picture of camera. It is a little bit rusty, but I've had it for several years...
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Dubs,
when you have time, go to the beginning of this thread, and go over the posts - you will see answers to some of your new questions alredy had been answered... One thing that is not answered is about the installation of the camera into the light opening. All the other questions have been answered, just as you read the post one after another, it makes more sense... |
Cool, thanks
Dubs |
So the replacement part to fix up all my cutting is costing around US$180 shipped in primer, then my painter will work his magic.
Ive now ordered a bumblebee cam and theat should be able to be mounted easier. Would I do the same thing over? Yep, i've learned a lot from the replies in this thread - thank you. And even though the initial cam didnt work I have most of the wiring ready to go for the bumblebee so thats a win in my book. Again thanks for the assistance, this is why forums like this are so good. Dubs |
keep us posted on your progress... so far all of thepeople who have been asking questions about the camera install had the cameras up and running... some got it done faster, some have taken good, old time to get it accomplished...
you will have it done, and you will like the results... |
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I have taken that license plate camera and busted it open... opening is very simple, unscrew two screws that "hold" the back to the front, and then took a thin blade and cut the adhesive along the joint lines and then the back came open.
As you can from the pictures, the front part of the assembly, where the camera is at, is rather flat, and should be able to fit where the cover lens was. Next thing will be to figure out how to secure the front to the opening of the license plate light, as the back part, that is too "fat" has the snap-ons that otherwise would have held... I am still working on this... |
I'm thinking that bumblebee cam that you posted the other day, will be the way to go for me. That way, the plate light stays the same. If the bulb burns, it won't require taking apart the whole thing. And the light output would match. It also looks like it would mount much easier with some adhesive.
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I've been going through this thread, I too purchased a nav tool recently along with a backup camera. my camera fits directly into one of the license plate lights, should snap right in. Now since I have NAV TOOL, would i still need a relay? also, how would I go about routing the wires through the top of the trunk door? my camera looks like this. sorry for the messy backround, its my soldering workstation lol
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I am not familiar with the NavTool... :( slick might have some ideas about the relay for the navtool...
can you take picture of your camera from several angles, please? I'd like to see how it looks like on the back... thanks |
Yes you still need the relay. Even Navtool instructions suggest a relay to the reverse lights. I still play on connecting the mini relay to the PDC. My electrician friend is working out the details on the setup. He should have time for me in the coming weeks to get this done finally. I will document the ordeal when that happens.
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Hi,
i did read your post (quoted) and also the next ones, and it seems the others also are in doubt of the schema. Could you please, if you don't mind, make the schema of connections using the bmw tv tuner and relay? Best regards and thx for your post. Paulo Quote:
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Not sure what you're after. Different seller sell difference harness (to connect aftermarket Camera to your X5). All you need to remember is that in order for the X5 standard Tv screen to switch to reverse mode, the TV tuner PIN 13 need to receives a Negative flow to trigger/activate it. If you need further assistant, i could try to take some photo of my set-up. |
Thx Tymatk,
i'm waiting for the camera. Once i get it, i will post my doubts, before trying to install it. Best regards, Paulo |
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So while waiting for the new 'bullet', which arrived today, I got into wire 7 PDC middle plug and mocked up all the wiring.
I found when all connected up the relay switch would not click over - it seemed like there wasnt enough power going through it to make it switch. I'll grab a pic tonight and see what I can sort. Dubs |
which relay are you using for the pin 7? regular automotive relay? it should be the low voltage/amperage relay from the radio shack (35mA triggering amperage) or another one with the 17 mA - the specs are inside the thread itself...
Pin 7 does NOT provide enough power to flip an automotive relay... |
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Sorry for the late reply, i attached pictures of the camera below. it fits in place in one of the lights ontop of the license plate. I wanna go ahead and install it but no idea on where to wire everything. I also have a 40A Bosch relay, would that work? and to power the navtool would I need 12v accessory or constant?
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have you tried to fit this camera into the license plate light opening? does it fit OK?
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yup fits fine just need to remove the bulb
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in that case, I would ask you where you got the camera from - like the name of the seller and whatnot... the other cameras that are sold on the ebay for the license plate opening do not fit...
thanks :) |
Yes, this is the exact one i purchased
BMW 3 5 Series x5 x6 Backup Rear View Camera Monitor | eBay i tested the camera out on my tv, great quality for a CMOS camera. has the lines aswell. |
Hi,
my camera arrived. Is the CCD Sony Car Rear View Camera for BMW 1 3 5 6 Series x3 x5 x6 E39 E53 E82 M3 E46 | eBay, which i will install this weekend. Now to the question: Where shall the video output from the camera be plugged? My E53 has the PDC (front and rear), OBD 16:9, and video module (analog TV tuner). As i understood, i will connect: pin 86 from relay to reverse light positive pin 85 and 87 from relay jumped to reverse light ground pin 30 from relay to pin 17 of the blue plug of video module. Is this right? Best regards, Paulo |
pw, i suspect that this particular camera will not fit into the license plate opening... before wasting your weekend, pop the license plate light cover and see if it will or not... if it fits, I want to see the pictures... If it doesn't fit, then... maybe a bumble bee camera?
there are schematics of the connections from the camera to the TV module and the trigger wire in this thread - camera needs power, the video feed from camera goes to TV module, and the trigger wire needs ground to send the video signal to the front of the car. you should not use the reverse light circuitry as the voltage there is NOT steady 12V but rather a pulse modulated wave, which will result in front image flickering. Since you have the factory PDC, you may consider using the Pin 7 from the center plug of the PDC to get a (+) signal to a SMALLER relay (see this very thread for the part number and the specs), which will apply (-) to the trigger wire. One thing at a time... check the camera fitment first... then post your progress, we will guide you further... |
TerminarorX5,
thx for your hint. The camera does not fit, not because of it's size, but because the inside of the trim which holds the opening button and the license plate lights are a unique piece, with a circuit board inside, so, it's not possible to remove the bulb holder, only the transparent plastic window, which i discover, has part of the tabs broken. So, i'm considering the following: Getting the other camera i have (Car Rear View Reverse Camera for BMW 1 3 5 6 7 Series x3 x5 x6 All BMW | eBay), cutting the cable from the camera to the splitter, make it fit to the lights and push button connector, make mini three pin connector and connect it to the splitter, which will be inside the rear door. As these cable is not shielded, i think it will not pose a problem. After done, i will pots the pictures, so to go further. Best regards and thx again for the hint. Spared me time :) Paulo |
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Well folks, you know that I had bought that camera off eBay that is advertized as one for E53... The back of the camera is too fat and will not fit into the opening of the license plate light, as the light assembly has only the lid that comes off, and not a "box" with the light bulb, like in E39 or the others... I let the eBay seller know but they continue selling that camera to E53 drivers as evidenced by the number of people who are trying to use it.
I have decided that it is better to modify/break a $20 chinese camera off ebay to suit the car than to modify a $150 piece of $75K German car to suit the cheap camera. I have taken a utility knife and gently cut out the cover of the camera to open it up... There are two screws that need to come off - on mine, they broke off the base but it did not affect the usability of the camera. also, please note that the dimensions of the OE cover and the camera housing are different, the camera housing is slightly wider and shorter than the OE cover. since the camera cable will not fit through the opening of the OE plug, I cut the cable - now it will fit with no questions. the camera will fit into the opening with a slight push - the inner side of the trunk handle is more plyable than the outer, body colored shiny part - you can see how the inner part is buldging... But since the camera housing is shorter, it leaves the opening holes wide open to the elements - hence I got the liquid rubber in hopes to insulate the holes and cover up the open circuit board of the camera, and also I used the rubber to attach the LED for the license plate... at one point I was thinking about keeping the original light bulb inside and get whatever light will get through the little window but I think that the heat generated by incandecsent light bulb will be to much for the camera to tolerate... Here are the pictures - i don't really know how to stick the text in between the pics... one day I will learn... :nanana: Since I can stick only 12 pics at a time - check the following post for more... |
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the camera sits kind of ok in the opening - I did not secure it by any means other than the natural tension applied by the smaller opening to the wider body. Also, I used generous amounts of the rubber sealant inside that might do some sticking...
It looks better on the car than the bumble bee camera did on my 4.6iS... Since this particular setup is NON functional yet, I can not tell you if the angle of the view is any good or not - the bumble bee camera was fully adjustable, as I could turn it around its axis and bend the metal bracket for a better view... Two last pictures are of the installed product: the one with Virginia license plate has the license plate light camera (not operational yet) and the one with the Pennsylvania license plate has a functional bumble bee camera that I had used since 2007... Once I connect this camera to the power and the video system, I will be able to report further... |
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Next step is to obtain the power on ignition for the camera (another option is to power the camera once reverse gear is engaged) and obtain power for the left license plate light.
Power for the license plate light comes from the original source of that power from connector X1739. This connector has 4 wires 1 left license plate light 2 trunk lid release button 3 ground (brown wire) 4 right license plate light (also feeds trailer module for parking lights for trailer) In ideal situation I would have a small, 3 harness made for the male and female part of the connector where the pin 1 and 3 would have been tapped for the LED lights. Unfortunately, some of these connectors almost impossible to source thus I resorted to the soldering the taps. Since the tap is T, I could not use shrink wrap, so it was isolated by regular tape. The draw on the circuit by the LEDs is much less than regular lamp, so we are ok here. Nevertheless, the LEDs do set off the Check Licplate Light warning. This issue can be later rectified by the programming of the car. Now would be a good time to restore the cut wiring for the camera good thing is, the wires are colored, so there is no way to make a mistake. In this case I used the shrink wrap and the tape. It is time to find a good source of power on ignition. After studying the schematics from the WDS, a connector X13057 from the rear wiper was identified. Pin 1 was ground (brown wire) and pin 13 is the power on ignition lead (red wire with black stripe). The power lead for this camera has come integrated with a wireless video transmitter I was not sure how well the wireless transmission will work but decided to give it a try before running cables all the way from the trunk lid to the bottom of the battery compartment. I tapped the power to the wireless module and connected the power and the video cable to the camera. Before zipping everything, I tested the reception using the wireless receiver and a portable test monitor. The monitor had its own battery compartment, and I used a 9V battery to power up the wireless receiver. The reception was good next to the transmitter, so I walked around and actually went inside the house the reception was excellent. Now would be a good time to zip everything up and start wiring up the receiver to the TV module. To be continued... |
Why didn't I think of that? I modified the $150 part. Still didn't work but I managed to solder and silicone the circuit board back in to put it back to "normal"
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you still should be able to take the cheap way out - i can try to help you...
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Thanks Terminator - I ended up going the bumblebee and putting it where the last one was (it is actually nicely tucked into one of the centre screw holes thing. So yeah it's all fixed. I ended up getting my money back from the chinaman saying that he said it would fit in an e53 and it didn't. He gave me a full refund and didn't bother asking for it to be returned. Maybe try that and you get a free camera :)
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Terminator, go to home depot. Get yourself a bottle of this. Waterproof. I used it a year ago when I wired up a water pump inside a pit. Looked at the wires last night, still perfect.
Liquid Electrical Tape from Gardner Bender | The Home Depot - Model LTB-400 |
sounds like a deal... the liquid rubber is similar to the liquid tape but has slightly different properties... i have the liquid tape and will saturate the back of the camera once i get closer to the finish line - i just wanted to make sure the set up is in working state... it seems that the wireless video sender is working for relatively large distance and is available on the ebay separate from the camera - sure beats running wires under all of the trim... especially for those folks who might have an aftermarket headunit with a reverse camera input right at the head - they would not have to run a cable from the back of the car to the headunit...
Dennis, great minds think alike!!!! thanks for the tip on the liquid tape, it is coming up one of the next installments of this loooong write up... how did you manage the Sandy?? I hope everything is ok... I just came back from Staten Island a weekend before Sandy hit... Friend of mine lives on Arbitus (or is it Arbutus?) street, not too far from the water... he is ok, just without lights... |
Man we got destroyed. Check the preparing for sandy thread. I've been updating what I see and what's happening. Long story short, totally unexpected, carnage, of the most epic proportion. Can't wait for this to become a memory.
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And so, i adapted the camera into the frame.
Next step: relay, pdc hook, video module input. |
Hi TerminatorX5,
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small relay - 12v low current coil - coil to pin 7 pdc and ground. relay feeds ground to pin 17 of blue connector from video module. Did i get it right? Best regards, Paulo |
white plug
pin 13 - + from camera pin 14 - shield from camera (-) blue plug pin 17 - (-) to trigger front monitor middle plug on the PDC controller pin 7 - to power coil of the relay that triggers (-) to pin 17 on TV module blue plug any ground (-) to the second lead of that power coil of the relay Let me know if you have more questions... :) keep us posted |
Next weekend i will complete the job and post the results and details.
Thx! |
Next weekend.... the last i was in the hospital due a kidney stone.... Sorry.
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ouch.. i had the stones while i was in panama - i thought i was dying... i had no idea what was happening, but the doc (panamenian, US trained, perfect English), just looked at me, and says - stones... also, gout goes hand in hand with the uric acid stones...
i hope you are doing well dude - some women that i know, said that they would rather have another baby natural way than pass a stone... get well soon... |
i completely (99%) finished my camera install, using the OE TV module, license plate camera, and wireless video sender/receiver... 99% - because is still need to saturate the back of the camera with the liquid tape...
the license plate camera is OK in the daytime and less than adequate at night - the bumble camera i had on the 4.6 was much better at night, but i paid $80 for it back in 2007... after the $80 camera died, i got a $25 bumblebee camera that did ok at night... this one - so-so... in the day time it does its job nice... I will post the pics later - between two laptops, i uploaded the pics to a "dead" one.. lol... well.. it is not dead... it is zombified... lol... I am eyeing up a front facing camera (bumblebee front facing, off ebay) for a DVR application - i have an 8-channel DVR USB card that I haven't tested yet... If it works, I might saturate the car with up to 8 cameras!!! hell, why not... lol |
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I hope you are doing better... :thumbup: Did you get the camera finished? |
Hi,
thx for the care, TerminatorX5... i'm now much better :) i did pass all the cables (camera video and power) inside the trunk door and having it coming out near the cd changer. Due end of year duties and travels, i will only be able to connect all at the beging of january and will then post all the pictures and results. Sorry for the delay..... |
Hi guys.
I have come up with a write-up on the rear camera installation on E53, the file is PDF, about 13Mb... since this is a work in progress, I would like to hear comments about removing some content or adding more content to the file. If you care for the file, shoot me an email at terminatorx5 at midnightstar dot com and i will send you the file. Don't use PM, my box is full. In return, I expect to hear constructive criticism and ideas on improving the document - since I did the work and then wrote it, many things seem obvious to me but might be unknown to you. I am posting this info on other rearview camera threads that I subscribed to. EDIT: reduced the size of PDF to 2Mb |
anymore takers of the file for review?
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Which are the wire colors in the BMW harness?
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Hi,
i got it working, but could not find the PDC module, even taking everything out of the trunk. The solution i got was: Video module- white plug pin 13 - + from camera pin 14 - shield from camera (-) blue plug pin 17 - (-) to trigger front monitor I hooked a positive and ground from the rear light lamp, and plugged a capacitor between the positive and negative (to eliminate the flickering due the pwm). The positive from the rear lamp triggers the relay coil and is connected together to the positive power of the the camera. The negative from the relay coil is connected together to the ground power of the camera and to center contact of the relay. When the car is put in reverse, the relay is triggered, the camera gets power, and the the pin 17 of the blue plug gets grounded. Attched the photos from the final work and the result. BR. P.S. Where is the pdc located at the E53 4.8 is 2006? |
congratulations!!!!
does it work to your satisfaction? is there any delay in cutting the image into the front screen? the PDC module should be in the L-shaped module carrier, as you look at the battery compartment, the long arm of the L-shaped carrier is closer to you, the PDC module is the left-most module with three plugs... i can't see it on your pictures... |
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Are you telling the the pdc module is the three plug module close to the radio module and left from the video module, as the attached photo? |
exactly!!! you got it!! connecting the camera trigger wire to the pin 7 of the middle plug of the PDC gives you an option to turn on/off the camera from the front button... if you don't care abbout the manual control (in addition to automatic control), then you should be all set with yuor present set up...
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Well.... more work for next week. Where do you recomment hooking power to the camera (12 V)? Thx! |
you got email? write to terminatorx5 @ midnightstar . com, and i will send you my write up - it shows where i tapped for the camera power - i chose the power on ignition in accordance with the WDS wiring diagrams...
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just sent you an email from my generic account - 6820... for some reason the TerminatorX5 account would not allow mail to be sent - i need to check my POP3 account...
let me know if youhave any questions about the write up... |
I'm installing a Dynavin and backup camera. Since I have to run a video cable from back to front could I run an extra wire? Is there a place up front to pick up a 12 volt trigger off of the reverse switch? Seems like that would solve the flicker issue. I don't have PDC so going that route won't work for me.
Thanks |
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You'll need to use the reverse light to trigger a relay connected to your battery (fused of course). That will give you clean power and stop your flickering issue. |
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Did you get any further or decide it was too much headache? I'm trying to decide for myself.
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So I guess there is no camera that fits directly on our cars without any modification?
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