X5 Tail Light Alteration and fix.
 

After going in for the third time regarding taillight/stop lights that don't work and continued bulb and socket replacement they decided to keep my X today and impliment a fix which they said came down from BMW. :rolleyes: What it amounts to is a 5 hour job of removing the entire rear taillight assembly from both sides cleaning any and all burn residue if any and then adding additional ground wires on both sides to carry the overload current. Service advisor said that this fix will eliminate the problem permanantly. We'll see ;)

I wonder why it takes 5hrs? I removed all my rear tail lights in about 15mins!!and surely cleaning and adding an additional ground wire wont take more than an hours work. Are you having it done under warranty?

Who knows. I don"t know what method you used or what method they used to modify each circuit board. I just needed it to stop under warranty. ;)

Just got the new socket with the new design along with a new bulb as the old one just burned out.... We'll see how long it'll last...

I had one brake light out, and when they replaced the bulb it still didn't work, so they replaced the entire rear taillight assembly and replaced it for free with a brand new unit. This was in the E53 when it was under warranty.

I have the same problem with my 01 X5 3.0, the R lower taillight keeps burning out, and the plastic piece that holds the bulb is getting a little melted, is that all I need to do is add another ground wire? How'd it come out?

Apparently BMW has caught on that this is an issue. After my third visit the SA told me that they had been replacing the tail light assemblys and that the part was becoming a rare camodity finding itself on back order. I guess the look on my face and the question about how long i would have to drive around with a burned out lamp prompted his quick response, "but we have a fix for you that will eliminate the problem once and for all". Thats when he explained that the fix came down from BMW. This fix was base on order # 63 08 07. Repair 2 circuit board contacts. WE shall see how long it last. ;)

Edit: Isn't there a a link for BMW TBS online?

yes is there a link for this fix, maybe turn it into a DIY?

Has anyone located the TSB site for BMW?

This fitment was done in September of this year and so far no more issues. :thumbup:

Ha. Just read your thread from a search. Tired of replacing the bulb's in my left rear.....either the brake or lamp bulb keeps on going out. I was just checking Ebay for new tailamp assemblies...

The new LED tails was a option....but there is a pic of Ebay with th lamps lit. Not feeling it at all...

If your under warranty let them hassle with it. But replacing the assembly won't help. It appears that the current draw is too much for the assembly and the additional ground wire decreases the load and prevents burnouts across contacts and bulbs. Although tempted I haven't looked to see If they really did this work in order to describe what was done. I may ask them for the information as a service to the members on this site.

To accomplish that i will have to go into the service bay (but not this week) and ask the foreman what he did.

I have to take it apart but this summer, I took off the tails and there was this white film on it....It was not rusty but some weird film. Totally went to town with electronic contact cleaner and removed the film. Did the same for the connectors and replaced all bulbs while I was at it.

Me wonders if the *film* came back. It only has been happening on my left tail lately.

What I have done to stop this problem is I bought this Deatx stuff from Bavauto.com. It a red contact cleaner and allows the elec. current to move freely and move more effiecent. I did this last year and I've have not had a problem since. Something to look into. Its cheap and maybe fixes the problem. So far, so good.

I got a reply from my SA and was advised the extra ground was an issue with the E46 platform. On the X, I've been advised it was the assembly circuit board.

Who knows.....regardless, it is not OOP for me now. At least it's confirmed .fwiw.

The assembly circuit board is the problem..... that is corrected by adding a ground wire. But you know what? i never got to the dealer to ask the foreman about it but i will for sure.

I serious doubt that the extra ground wire would help. The problem, as I see it is that the contacts between the bulb socket and the light assembly circuit board are horrible to say the least. So, as the high current moves across from the circuit board to the bulb socket, then back to the circuit board, it will create electrical sparks if the connections aren't perfect and this is where the problem lies. Over time, the sparks will eat away the metal contacts on both the bulb socket as well as the circuit board. It's a design flaw that won't be fixed with a simple wire...unless of course, that wire is soldered directly from the circuit board to the bulb socket!

You just killed your own point. The lack of the extra ground wire is why it would be "sparking". The electricity flowing through it needs a ground capable of "returning" so to speak that load. If the ground can't return it, then it needs someplace to go which is when it would "spark" to release the "build-up" of electricity.

Quicksilver is it still holding up?

Does anyone know the site to go to for TSB's?
IMO This sounds like it should be a recall instead of a TSB since there are so many issues of this. Too bad noone at BMW would listen to a letter or email. :(
Thanks.

Should be a re-call...I've ordered LED tails as I'm sick off removing the tails every fortnight to clean the contacts.

I am having the same problem on a 2001 X5. My rear right brake light keeps going out. The tail light housing seems brittle, and the old socket was slightly melted. I bought a new socket at the dealer ($27 rippoff) and a bulb, but the problem persists.

My question is, regardless of the fix proposed, grounding the circuit, would replacing the entire tail light with the newer version (04 and up) fix it?

Im sick and tired of beeps and messages...

I hope so, I just bought tails off an '02, and am hoping this will solve the prob I had (same thing, melted holders, and burning on the board, see pics in the WTB section here.) Hopefully this will fix the problem, I'll post and let know how it seems to work once I get them, and put them in.

They have NOT fixed the issue on the newer models. My '04 had the same issue where it keeps throwing a rear light out error (the bulb is still good, but doesn't light up). The soldering tips DO work. I added some solder to the bulb holder contacts and after a year, it still works...no more light out errors.

Yup, same crappy design on the '04. I have replaced both rear lights in last year.

dkl, exactly where did u apply the solder and how much??

It's mostly a trial and error thing for the amount of solder to apply. The problem with the entire design is that the bulb holder isn't getting good enough contact with the printed circuit board on the light house assembly. Just add a bit of solder to the conductive part (you know...the tip portion that usually get burned) of the bulb holder that is making actual contact with the light assembly circuit board. Normally, when the bulb holder conductors are worn, it sit somewhat loose on the housing. Keep adding a tiny bit of solder to the contacts (conductor) of the holder until it sit in the housing snug.

umnitza is supposed to be coming out with an LED replacement soon for the E53 - as my right brake/tail light continues to give me "check ...light", it can't come too soon

Same light is out again....... Back to the dealer.

Keep us posted....
My left tailamp....first it was the brake and now it's the lamp itself...out for like 6 months now. It's not a easy bulb swap for me since I have a custom stereo install and it's buttoned up back there.

Been waiting on Leds but if no decent leds are out by spring....I'll just suck it up and bring it to the dealer.

I'll buzz by tomorrow and see if there's a quick fix but i doubt that will happen.

Like I said, there's pretty much nothing they can do to the current design to fix the problem (permanantly) other than try to get as best as they can to provide a SOLID connection between the bulb holder and the light fixture. The semi-loose connection between the holder and the fixture is what's causing the sparks to burn either the holder or the fixture circuit board or both. The reason why adding some extra solders to the bulb holder worked for all of us who had tried this kluge is because the extra solder is actually taking up the "slack", for the lack of a better word, which forces a better connection between the contacts of the holder and the fixture. The snug contacts between the bulb holder and the light fixture is key.

I would put money on that your dealer will probably going to replace your entire light fixture this one last time just to tie you over until your warranty expires since there is no "proper" fix for this design flaw.

How much did you bet????

You might have won or lost. Not sure which but they replaced them both and i saw them do it. Bulb contact was burnt as usual. No argument from them at all. Drove it in today, The looked, check stock, then they drove it to the garage. I waited an hour and a half and it was done. Let see when was my last complaint? :rolleyes:

Ahhh yes September 19 2007. So in about 4 months we should expect another failure. Warranty is up in November. :rolleyes:

Solder+grease fix
 

I finally decided to remove my rear right tail light and inspect. When I removed the bulb socket from brake light, I noticed that the tail light housing contact point was not only burnt, BUT IT HAD A HOLE in the metal, it melted right through. No wander changing the bulb and socket did not do it.

I soldered the hole shut and added solder around the area, as well as some more on the contact point on the bulb socket.
I also used electric grease (the generic type used for spark plug cables which prevents corrosion and helps conductivity).

The fix is working, for now. I'm sure we are all skeptical on how long it will last. But for now, the brake lights work.

I am puzzled as to why the tail light has two bulbs, the top one dual fillament, and the brake light/tail light bulb is single fillament! Should it not be the other way around? If a bulb is lit for your tail light when headlights are on, and then illuminates beighter when brakes are applied, should it not be a dual fillament bulb?:confused:

Thanks everyone...

Taillight update

just have my 2001 X5 4.4 in for wheel set swap, oil change, and quick inspect - right brake/tail light have been out despite all DIY repairs posted here - dealer did the BMW recommended repair (1hr labor cost) and now tailight works

still waiting for LEDs - Umnitza responded to my latest email saying their first three attempts still produce error codes - will still patiently wait for their success, but won't hold my breath

Pictures would be wicked for this topic..............

am not big on DIY these days, especially after having BSW put in their Stage 1 speakers, amp, and sleath subwoofer (which now blocks access to right taillight) - don't have the tools, as the garage in still down the list on things to do for the new townhouse - so no pics - there is posted on one of the taillight threads the BMW code for the repair

yo.

i had a problem with my rear brake light. i removed the old one with one i bought on ebay for 22 dollars. i noticed corrosion on my old unit, it was ridiculous. so, i replaced the whole tail light in 10 minutes for 35 bucks, the cost of unit plus shipping. now the light works!

At the cost of repair, I was going to plunk for the LED tails (which at this point has dragged on far enough). The X is going to the stealership next week and I'll just let them swap it under WD ....got some other minor nig-nags...

Any pictures???? :thumbup:

Here are some pictures of my 01 x5 left taillight with the burnt hole. I added some solder and cleaned the bulb socket with a wire brush attachment on my dremel, and haven't had a problem since.

Did you add the solder on the spot and a bit around the area too? See modified picture! :rolleyes:

Yes, I cleaned up the surrounding area and spread it out a little. I should have taken a photo of the finished product.

Ok - I did it on my left-side. And it worked great! I got the DSP-bass on my right-side, so I didn't get it open. But the warning is gone!! So hopefully it was the left-side that caused the problem...

Thanks a lot for your help by the way!

PS! I will post pictures if I get the right-side apart... :thumbup:

The right side is a lot more difficult to get at the bolts because of the bass box. I dropped a bolt and only used 2 to put the taillight back on. I did not have any problems with the right side, only the left side.

Here are the SIB's for people still needing them.

Here's the write-up of the procedure....2 years after following this method, my lamps are still holding up like nothing ever happened.

http://www.bmwmotorsports.org/pdf/e5...y%20Repair.pdf

Be sure to keep a copy for future reference.:thumbup:

I did the solder fix. Sanded down the burnt area on the cheaply made galvanized holding bracket and floated copius amounts of solder around and over it. The key trick is to then paste all around the area with dielectric silicon grease. sold for a few bucks at any auto store. This will keep the moister out of the contact area and eliminate the arcing.

rear tail light issues
 

In addition to the solder and dielectric grease treatment, I noticed that a plastic "Rivet" was loose and the back plate was not a tight as it should be. I took a drill with a small bit and drilled a hole into the plastic mounting post. It then took a small screw and screwed it into place. It held very snuggle and tight. That was 4 months ago and no problem since.

X5 DIY Rear Lamp Repair
 

First-time post, figured I'd share my write-up on repairing my X5's tail lights with this thread, since it was all of you that helped me figure out how to do it!

Thanks and be kind, I'm a noob.... :)
n

------------------


X5 DIY Rear Lamp Repair

I have been dealing with the well-known problem with my 2001 X5’s rear tail lights for a couple years now by simply sanding the corroding spots on the circuit board and bulb holder contact points. Unfortunately, my luck with this simple fix ran out last week and the pitting finally got to the point that it was too big for the bulb holder to complete a circuit no matter how well I cleaned up the contact points.




Been reading through the forum posts and knew there were two problems I had to fix.

1. Repair the circuit board where the corrosion/pitting had occurred.
2. Repair the plastic circuit board supports where they’d melted from the heating of the circuit board.

Tools/Supplies:

• 2001 BMW X5 With Bad Tail Lights :)
• 8MM Socket Wrench
• Side-cutters / Dikes (for removing damaged plastic circuit board supports)
• Needle-nose pliers (for bending the damaged circuit board back into shape)
• Soldering Iron & Solder
• Sandpaper
• Rubber Cement
• Acetone (or your favorite adhesive remover)
• Q-Tips
• Epoxy
• Super Glue
• Masking/Painter’s Tape
• Dielectric Grease
• BMW Tail Light Holder (basket + terry-cloth towel)

Job #1: Repair the Circuit Board

Reference/Credit: CharlieHustleX5’s excellent write-up for soldering the circuit board posted to the Xoutpost’s "X5 Tail Light Alteration and fix. “ thread.

1. Remove tail lights (Won’t cover the details here, the steps are covered well in the write-up above and in other forum posts.)
   
2. Inspect the problem area. The problem really is only with the brake lamps (bottom, black holder) on both rear lamp assemblies. The turn signal (top, white holder) showed very little oxidation and the middle light (green holder) was perfectly clean.
   https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[6].jpghttps://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[5].jpg
   
   
3. Place tail light in official BMW tail light holder. The basket+towel combination made working with the awkward shape of the tail light much, much easier. I also chose to completely remove the black “gasket” and have steps and pictures further down on re-attaching it.
   https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[1].jpg
   
4. Apply a thin, wide layer of solder over the problem area. I also sanded the fresh solder to make a more even surface at the contact point. I’ve actually never soldered before and did the sanding by hand. Someone with soldering experience and a Dremel could do a much more professional looking job.
   https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[2].jpg https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[6].jpg
   
5. I then reinstalled the lamp holders into the tail light and connected the tail light to the wiring harness in the X5 to ensure my soldering job was successful.

Job #2: Repair the Plastic Circuit Board Supports

Reference/Credit: Service Information bulletin – SI B63 08 07 (Image of SIB posted to same thread here).

1. Inspect the problem area. Again, the problem really is only with the brake lamps and its evident that the heat being generated by the circuit board is enough to severely damage the plastic circuit board supports (gray, cross-hatched heads). Following the directions from the bulletin, I cut off the heads of the damaged supports with a pair of side-cutters and then bent the circuit board up a bit to get a better look. On both tail lights, it was the bottom two supports that were damaged, all other supports appeared fine.
   https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[1].jpg https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[1].jpg
   
   
2. Using needle-nose pliers I then bent the circuit board back into its proper position, which was at a parallel height was the rest of the undamaged circuit board just next to it.
3. Once I was satisfied that the circuit board was bent to its proper position, I used a small dab of super glue on the very end of the circuit board to glue it to the last gray cylindrical post. This made it much easier to go on to the next step of rebuilding the supports with epoxy.
   https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[3].jpg
   
   
4. I then put a piece of masking tape on the inside edge of the circuit board and hole as a guard against getting any epoxy inside the lamp assembly or too close to the inner edge which might interfere with the lamp holder when reinstalled. (Sorry, looks like I didn’t get a picture of this step.)
5. Build up a “wall” of epoxy underneath the circuit board to replace the melted plastic and add a couple dollops to the holes in the circuit board to act as the heads for the supports (equivalent to the gray cross-hatched heads that you see elsewhere on the board). And as the bulletin mentions, you want to be careful not to get too much epoxy such that the “notch” where the bulb holder inserts into is blocked and may not allow the holder to turn into its locked position.
   https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[1].jpg https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[1].jpg
   
   
6. Allow epoxy to cure. The bulletin mentions applying masking tape to hold the circuit board in place. I got around this with my super-glue trick in step 3.
7. Re-attach the gasket. As the bulletin instructs, I cleaned the lamp body where it contacts the gasket, as well as cleaned the gasket where it contacts the lamp body. I used q-tips and acetone for the cleaning, you’ll see before and after shots below.
   https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[1].jpghttps://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[1].jpg
   
   I then used some good old Elmer’s rubber cement on both pieces to reattach the gasket. For good measure, I taped down the gasket while the glue setup for about 30 mins.
   https://ms9hdq.blu.livefilestore.com...umb[4].jpg
   
   
8. I then applied some dielectric grease to each of the spots on the circuit board where the lamp holders make contact. Hoping this will help slow the return of the problem.
9. Reinstall the repaired tail lamps in your X5 and enjoy!

A note about epoxy…. I don’t claim to be an expert about this epoxy stuff, just thought I’d mention my experience with the 2 different types of epoxy I had at hand. Both worked, but one turned out to be more suitable for the task of building up a support base and replicating the support “heads”.

• Manual-mix: The first type I used comes in a dual-chambered container and you squeeze the product onto a mixing surface (a scrap piece of cardboard) and then mix until the color changes. This product was a fairly thick consistency and had a longer setup time (15 minutes). The final pictures above are of the tail light I used this epoxy with. The benefit of this type turned out to be the thick consistency, it held its shape much better immediately, even before it started to setup.
• Instant-mix (shown in the supplies picture): The second type I tried also comes in dual-chambered container, but has a nozzle you attach which allows the two ingredients to “instantly” mix in the nozzle and allows you to apply the mixed product directly to the surface you’re working on. I had thought this would be easier and provide a “cleaner” finished product. What I found was that the consistency of this epoxy was much thinner and continued to want to flow and spread out of the area I was trying to build up. It would not hold the shape of the round support “heads” as well as the first product. Not sure if there are “instant-mix” epoxy’s with a thicker consistency, but it would be preferred.

Fantastic write-up gents...both rear brake lights went out at the same time. I followed the instructions and repaired both within a couple hours...with enough time to surf the swells at the beach :D

Last couple times this happened, on previous X5's, dealer replaced the entire unit, only to have the issue return. Glad to have such resourceful contributors on this forum :thumbup:

Rear light problem
 

Hi, our other X ran across this problem.

The drivers side bottom flickers slowly, and the passenger side is just not on.

I re & re the bulb sockets on the passenger side and still same problem.

Also my front DRL on the passenger is not lighting up.

Anyone care to chime in... Im thinking I should switch it with my rear light and see if it still happens, just wondering if anyone had the same issue prior to me removing and so on.

Here are the pics.

Interesting write-up and glad to see BMW finally resolving the issue. On my old 2004 3.0 I had it back three times and each time both tail light assemblies were replaced with the old units be added to land fill I'm sure.

David

is there a way to buy the parts (ie., is it a new stock BMW part?)??

I've had this three times. I went in with contact grease adn greased all my tail light connections.. hasn't fully resolved it, but mostly.. OCCASIONALLY one will act up.

Your symptoms and answers are within this very same thread...

:confused: Did you actually read the DIY's? There's more than just contact grease required to remedy the problem. No "new" parts required aside from materials. If it's new parts you seek, your options are to either take your vehicle to the dealer or purchase the parts yourself. You can begin your search here:

RealOEM.com * Online BMW Parts Catalog

Ill read through again, Reason I asked is that there was a big bottle we had of water (cap wasnt crewed on tight :() and it leaked in the back. Dealer had fixed but Im not sure what they replaced, just wanted to know if its the "light" itself or something electrical.

I will swap it with mine and see if it works, if so then I know the light is fried.

Cheers,

Well i guess it's possible that the water could be a culprit but i doubt it. If you had issues with the drain tubes being pinched or clogged, resulting in water damage in the rear, then i'd be inclined to chalk that up as a potential culprit. However, your symptoms and your pics provided lead me to believe that sparks are eating away at the metal contacts.

I suggest you take it apart and look for the symptoms. Your other option is to take it to the dealer and have them repair/replace what you can probably do yourself.

***I rechecked the light and there was a burnt mark (hole) I will clean it up and add some solder, my apologies for not paying more attention. :cool:

Just received "check brake lights" removed the bulb...bulb is good removed the whole light assembly moved the bulb around and it turned on so i knew the connection wasn't good so i took some sand paper and cleaned it and bent the little tabs on the bulb assembly and it worked perfect..5 min of work. Hopefully u can do the same without having to take it to the dealer

My dealer has replace rt TL under warranty year ago. They didn't put one screw that's hard to reach. Bastards.

I was getting this problem again, It is intermittent and bug the S%^& of me. No burnt out bulbs.

Obviously it is mostly to do with BMW electrical system doesn't regulate the voltage properly. It happened to my e46 as well.

NEAR PERMANENT SOLUTION: BUY LED TAIL LAMPS!!! Now if you shop around you could get it under $200 shipped. It used to be around $300. Only problem I have now is that I got the clear chrome ones like New Lexus RX, and it looks kinda gangster. Good luck.

Just bumping this thread and Page 5 in particular where a couple of great write-ups are posted. I just got around to dealing with my passenger side rear lamps that had this exact problem. So far so good....

Great info.... exactly what I'm looking for.

However, I'm curious, does anyone know wether this will covered by CPO warranty??

Well, I did BOTH lights and used generous amounts of solder but I am still getting the error. I don't know now if I have bad holders. I cleaned up the contacts on all of them and bent the tabs a little for better contact. Any ideas or am I going to have to spring for LED units? :tsk:

How about the bulb contact itself? Did you clean that up too? Pencil eraser or fine sandpaper should do the trick.

These tail lights are a pita. Nice work engineering team! :confused:

Thanks Kirk. I'll try that. I used a Dremel with wire brush on the bulb holder's outside contacts but not the bulb itself and the contacts inside of the holder.

I spent tonight replacing yet another (number 7?) window regulator. :mad:

I've got a different issue that I can't seem to fix while using search. I've got an 01 X5, bought some stock taillights off an 02+ X5 w/ the clear blinker corners. They work great, but the upper bulb on each side is staying on as if it's a euro brake light. The lower stays dim and brighten up as expected when pushing the brake pedal, but I need to fix the upper lights before I get pulled or highbeamed constantly.

If anyone wants to pay for shipping on a set of stock, yellow cornered lights since they're having issues related to the specific topic on this thread, feel free to PM me since mine work just fine.

Whoever wrote that guide, many many thanks.

I followed the guide and removed the passenger (left) side assembly and saw the corrosion. I cleaned up the area after continuity testing and finding an open on the bottom part of the contact. All working fine now!

Thanks a million!!!

Kudos! I did the solder job on my drivers side brake light (lower of two on that side) and it worked like a charm. Until then I would jiggle the socket and the error message would go away for a day or two, then come back on. With the solder the error has been gone now for two weeks (and counting). I don't think that it will come back for at least two years (based on the clean solder)

Did this as well before reading the guide. It was sort of common sense for me. I didn't sand anything, but managed to get a decent amount of solder through the hole to create a metal support. Didn't have to take the gasket off or anything else. We will see how long that last.

I'm not going to read through 5 pages of posts, I'm just going to say how I fixed it on my X5 and 2 of my e36's in the past.

If you take out the tail light and look at the plate that the bulb that is not working connects to, you will see corrosion at the point where the bulb holder makes connection with the metal plate.

All you have to do is drill/drimmel out all of the corrosion. I drimmelled both of my e36's and drilled my e53's. Once it is clean, use some thicker paper/thinner cardboard and put it between the metal plate and the tail light.

Then use solder and fill the hole. The paper/cardboard will keep it from dripping through to the plastic or down into the tail light. Once dry, drimmel it smooth.

Everything should work as long as the bulb holder is not corroded. I have drimmelled the contacts on them before just to help, but if they are too bad they aren't that much to replace.

I used to have pictures of the whole process, if I can find them I'll post it.

Hope this helps someone out there.

Well... it looks like someone already posted that lol.

Here's where I posted it 7 years ago, however I must have deleted the pictures off my server.

E36 "brake light failure" cause corrosion DIY FIX - DTMPower BMW Forum

they say fight fire with fire, so why not fix german with german? heres a cheap fix that uses a MB part.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...light-fix.html

I have a 2002 X5 3.0 diesel (I live in Europe) and have had the same tail light issues as X5's around the world. MANY do have a corrosion problem for the brake light bulbs, usually at the contact point (bulb holder) or the circuit "board" metal (more likely).

Removing the corrosion with a Dremel grinder and (even better) tinning this with solder will resolve this, for a while. Read one.

The TRUE origin of the problem is heat from the circuit that will (over time) melt the plastic stand-off's that hold the circuit metal holder. The circuit metal will then shift or modestly warp, causing intermittent and then (later) permanent poor contacts and the brake light error.

This mostly happens to the brake light (bottom bulb) rather than reverse or running lights.

THE fix is covered in BMW SI B 63 08 07, which supercedes BMW SI B 63 08 08. It involves repair to support / glue the circuit board with a BMW plastic repair kit. The glue / filler itself is a Henkel product called Terokal 9225. Easy to do. I did the grind, clean and solder on one tail light - it gave me a year. I just applied the BMW type repair myself on both sides, MUCH better and more permanent fix. I had epoxy putty in my "glue collection" (Milliput) instead of Terokal.

Removal and repair is a 30 minute job per side, then wait for your glue to cure.

Do it and your E53 will entirely cease to give you spurious warnings. Next time it'll really be for burnt out bulb :thumbup:

I believe it been 5 or six years since I had the initial problem. Recently I replaced two sockets and we're good to go.

Again thanks to all for the instructions on how to remedy the Brake light problem.
Had a "Check Brake Lights" indication. Replaced bulb socket, which had small amount of corrosion, $14. Also cleaned and soldered corrosion spot on board.
Working well.

On my second X5 and I'm having this issue again, but I don't remember how I fixed it :D I'm sure it's something like a single filament bulb or something lower wattage...anyone remember?

Great little DIY repair. I first tried the dielectric grease alone but the problem returned. Then I ran across this thread and 2 hours later (did both rear lights) no more warning lights on the dash.

Thanks guys :thumbup:

No, because even the tail lights on my 04 e53 had this issue.

I fixed it, again...but naturally I don't remember the bulb number at the moment. Take the stock dual filament bulb in, match up the bulb w/ the same bottom connection and two pins on the side that have the same clocking. The bulb body itself is much smaller and the bulb overall has a lower wattage.

X5 Tail Light Alteration and fix.
 

What's broken on your E53 today!
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

Proper fix. Drill out the melted plastic rivets. Shim out to original height and use self tapping screws to attach the metal frame.

Design defect the 21w high filament gets hot enough to melt the plastic and the spring pressure pushes the contact away from the bulb adding resistance that causes more heat and faster melting.

It doesn't hurt to put some silver solder on the contact points but that doesn't eliminate the root cause.

Not sure why the thread revival, but I 100% agree with all that, both the cause and the best solution. :thumbup:

BTW, here's a direct link to post #65
https://xoutpost.com/1047563-post65.html

On my repair journey, I first effed around with other repair attempts such as sanding, soldering, shimming, bending, cleaning, adding foil, etc. that all turned out to be temporary.

Then I did the screw repair (although the screws I used were much smaller and lower profile than the ones in that post - you need to make sure there is clearance from the bulb sockets) and that has been permanent. :cool:

X5 Tail Light Alteration and fix.
 

I couldn't find my photos so I pulled up the post that showed them including my original description.

There was plenty of room for the screw heads. I use self tapping screws because they won't split plastic and are simple and fast.

The clean link does not load in tap a talk so why the crazy long link tat generated.