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Self level suspension inactive
2 Attachment(s)
(Yes AC), Most of the time the fuse related may check out good, but the ignoring: (self leveling inactive system) keeps appearing on your dash cluster.
I know it's annoying to see any blinking message; but let me ask you this: Do you remark that your rear vehicle is driving lower than normal? Like when you drive onto something (as a bump), the rear vehicle seems shaking by throwing passenger in the back up? Otherwise my car used to be like that just for one day, and I quickly discovered it was the 1st fuse in the back that were blown. Once replaced, the rear lifted back up to normal position when I start the engine. Occasionally, the message may show up in my dash cluster (That's only when I park the car specially ontop of the snow with the rear tires NOT level on one side each either. And the sensors controlling the (self leveling system) under the car may have been touched with the snow that trigger the message to come on. But it goes out easily by proceeding to this following step: (go Back a little bit, and move forward now, if not, turn the car off for a minute and restart the engine the (message more likely disappears 4ever on my car after doing so. If not and your rear vehicle is ridding with a normal level as usual, than you definitively have a bad (self leveling inactive sensors gone wild) that can be replaced easily under the car, and I heard they are cheap!!! Take a closer look @ # 18 and 19 these are the self leveling sensors system for my car. |
My 03 battery had been close to the edge since I bought the car in 06. But since it is parked indoors it was not a big issue and it kept going fine until mid-december. Replaced it with an item exactly the same from the dealer. It was a carbon copy of the original and cost me $190. Could have got it cheaper I guess but I had no time to deal with it during the day and the wife picked it up.
To avoid having to reset the electronics I hooked up the jumpstart posts in the engine compartment with JS cables to my P/U truck. In the back I tied back the airpump to the center childseat anchor with a bungee cord and did the same with the posive battery lead (remember it is live as the other car now powers the X!!!) You could use any 12V battery and leads as the amps required with the key out of the car are not that high. Took out the old battery and popped the new battery in, unhooked the leads to my truck, et voila! 15 minute job, tops. |
Just did my '03 today...cold weather was the nail in the coffin for the old battery. Cost me $135 after the core charge from Checker/O'Reilly. This job was fairly easy...I didn't cuss much.
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