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Try returning the side nobs back to lower positions. I have had this as well when they are too far out, the trunk does not pop open like it should and actually sounds worse when you try to open it by the remote.
As for the rattle...good luck with that one. As soon as you fix it, when the temp changes, it goes right back to making noise. |
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Never had a problem with the opening and closing of the tailgate on my '05 diesel until I had a slight mishap (read cock-up) whilst reversing and had to have the complete lower tailgate replaced. Now, whilst the upper tailgate will open from the remote, as soon as I touch it, it motors closed again. The 2 stops on the upper tailgate are fairly rigid and are there for the door to close against to stop any rattling and to align the door in the closed position, they are too rigid to push the door outward. The thing that makes the upper door spring open is the round, hollow rubber snubber to the left of the locking mechanism. Is yours still in place? Mine is, so, the answer?. Even though I haven't tried it yet, is to adjust the catch on the lower tailgate, inwards, so that when the unlock is activated the rubber snubber will push the upper tailgate further away from the lower latch and thus further away from the micro switch (built into the upper electric locking mechanism) so that it will not automatically reclose. This is where your clicking noise is coming from when you try to unlock the tailgate, it is actually the lock opening and then immediately closing again. Good luck, and let us all know how you get on. Regards Colin. |
FWIW, I have a problem where after I open the tailgate from the console, the soft close tailgate closes when I close the doors. It's a minor PITA and usually occurs when I want to get my golf clubs out of the back. I read the tip here about leaving a window open but that doesn't make sense for my situation. It's easy enough to open the tailgate with the key after closing the doors.
Good luck with your clicking issue. That sounds more serious :thumbup: |
My guess is that when you are adjusting the side knobs too far outward, there is too much force pushing the door away from the latch, so it takes more effort to release the back hatch. I don't know if I'm explaining it very well)
It's kind of like when you're trying to unlock a deadbolt on a door while you're puching on the door. The harder you push on the door, the harder it is to open the lock because it's pushing against the lock housing. If you screw the knobs back down and the problem goes away this is most likely the problem. Then you'll just have to find just the right position to the knobs. Maybe you could try to find out exactly where the creaking is occuring from and then try to address that noise issue some other way. Hope this helps. |
Thanks for the info so far everyone.
fatboyoz............... that certainly seems interesting I think I will have a look again in daylight although fwiw the stoppers i was referring to turning actually sit in the rain gulleys/channels between the pillar tim and rear quarters - thanks anyway just concerned if I start adjusting sensitive catches etc I may well end up with a taligate that wont shut. Even if I end up with some theories to put to the dealer it's something. BTW everyone -fwiw the car went to dealer today re other work and despite me asking them to have a look at this they said they ran out of time. So as to not go off topic big time or rant I may post more re this elsewhere. Cheers again everyone and obviously any other theories welcomed. |
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