If your connector has a open socket, you can use the male pin for a super clean installation.

If your connector doesn't have an open socket, or you don't want to bother ordering the BMW male pin, you can use a wire splice and it will work just fine!

BTW - Just did a 2000 mile round trip with a 5000 pound boat + gear to Lake Powell. The X5 continues to amaze me with it's towing capability! I averaged almost 15 mpg on the open stretches. (2004 4.4 & 6 sp tranny)
By comparison my brother has a Chevy Trailblazer with an inline six and he gets 10mpg on the highway pulling a boat of the same weight....

OK, I bought the male pins, but I'm still not quite sure how to connect to the LCM here. There is a yellow/black wire connected to pin 10 on the connector if I understand correctly... How do I connect the 'red wire' to this pin simultaneously? Sorry if I'm missing something obvious here... I've done plenty of splicing before, but I want to do this install without cutting any OEM wiring, if at all possible. Am I trying to connect the red wire to the male side of the plug, alongside the yellow/black wire? How is this accomplished in the most clean way?

EDIT: Secondly, how in the world do you get that darn plug off of the LCM????? I am trying to slide the lock off of the connector but I cannot for the life of me get the darn thing to come off!!! I'm afraid if I push on it any harder I'm going to break it. The lock is only sliding up half way before it stops, and I cannot get it to budge.

Thanks again-

Great question, re: how to connect the wires without splicing...I have the same question.

Regarding removal of the plug: It does not come STRAIGHT off. Unlike most other locking plugs, this lock does not come off first, then unplug the connector. If it is anything like the plugs for the power window switches/mirrors in the doors, then the lock slides off and up while the plug moves WITH it as it goes. It may sound weird, but once you see how it works, it is very easy to remove. I almost broke mine when trying to do it the first time.

Hope that helps...now can someone help us with the wire/splicing question? Pictures of the LCM would be helpful, too...

Hey, I just wanted to thank everyone for the help with the trailer brake controller install. Truth is, I've had this finished for a while now, but I got everything hooked up properly using the links here and and then had a chance to truly test the rig out towing my E30 track car to Road Atlanta and back. I borrowed an aluminum Trailex from a buddy of mine, and the X5 performed flawlessly. I couldn't believe my eyes, but my trip computer registered 15 mpg on the way down, and 14.6 mpg on the way back!!! Unbelievable. The Prodigy controller is really nice. It has very straightforward controls, and setting the brake power on the trailer was a very simple process. The dual brakes on that Trailex were so effective and 'grabby' that I only ended up setting the braking voltage to 2... Lots of headroom there.

Budget M3, you actually do not have to remove that LCM plug... In fact, I do not recommend it... I carefully fought with it for a long time before finally realizing on my own there was no real need to disconnect it. you can splice/tap the pin 10 connected wire (black with a small yellow stripe) with the plug connected from the front and it will eliminate a LOT of hassle. If you remove the trim panel covering those plugs you will be able to see it easily from the front. PM me if you have any questions and I'll do my best to help you out...

Thanks again to those that offered their feedback here!

BMW brake controller install 2002 E53 4.4i
 

Hi all,

Read the thread, the links to BMWMOTORSPORTS.ORG are gone though. I'm trying to ensure I have all the details I need before starting, if anyone has the .pdf from the original link, or can send me screen shots of the correct harness and pin to tap into, I would really appreciate it!

Thanks,

John

That is the URL for the online reference tab on this site. It is only the document name that changed in some minor way. I can see all the documents here:

Index of /pdf/e53

Let me know if that doesn't work.

Jeff

Sphengali, JCL's link worked for me. I had read the linked 'how to' when looking to install a controller, and it appears to be the best guide available. That said, if you have only one 'braked' trailer you regularly pull, I highly recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy RF controller - no need to mess with the wiring to control the brakes on the trailer mounting the Prodigy RF unit. Good luck!

Agree with the Prodigy RF for ease of install. I am testing mine out over next 2 weeks and then doing a nice tow with it. Will report on any findings using it.

Just curious if anyone has had luck using the tekonsha voyager controller. I know others say use the prodigy one, but my father gave me this voyager one. So it'd be nice to avoid spending 130 on a controller.