Clunk in front suspension
 

I have a 2001 3.0 X5 that has a clunk in the front suspension. I notice it clearly when going over speed bumps slowly. It is on the driver's side only. I also get a front end shimmy when braking with medium brake pressure. I know the rotors are good; I just replaced them.

Any ideas on what could be wrong? I was thinking that I could have a bad ball joint somewhere up front.

Thanks,

Mike

Because you've got an '01 X, I'll bet it's either control arm bushings or sway bar links. A friend of mine is a BMW tech, he said they get a lot of the same complaint of the clunking in X5's 4 years old or older. Had the same problem with my suspension a few months ago, it was the links. One of these days, I'll get a DIY posted for that. A pair of new links run about $60 from the parts counter at your local BMW dealer.

JV

had the same problem... replaced the sway bar links .... it is perfect again!

When you say the sway bar links, which part are you referring to? I just got under the X5 to pull on the front suspension components to see if anything is loose. The large rubber bushing in the front arm seemed a little loose, but I'm not sure if that is normal for the bushing. The other side seemed slightly tighter.

same thing has happened to my 01, how much are these sway bars?

In the second photo, the part that connect to the sway bar, kinda looks like a dog bone, with bushings at both ends. They sometimes call them something other than sway bar links. Sometimes known as "swing bar links". Part #7 on this page of the OEM for my 01 4.4 11/00 build.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...23&hg=31&fg=10

You'll need to check the MY and build date for your specific vehicle.

JV

Ok, I've been doing a little searching on the problem. The TIS software says that a pulsating brake pedal can be a sign of a bad wheel bearing. Theoretically this makes sense. I get a clunk when hitting a small bump and also have the brake pedal pulse. My thinking is that bad sway bar links wouldn't cause a brake pedal pulse.

I've looked at the wheel bearing procedure on TIS and it looks fairly involved. Has anyone done this? I'll need to get my front tire off of the ground to see if the bearing is bad.

What you are describing is exactly what I was experiencing on my 2001 X5 3.0i. Once I replaced the lower control arms and the control links (#7 in your second picture) both the clunking and the brake pulsating went 100% away. I'd be very surprised if that wasn't your problem as well. Here was my post on this last fall over at the 'fest (pre-X5world days :D ) - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79659

On our X5 we get it in the back. Its a clunk, only slow speeds, just as he descirbed. Would it be a similar situation? btw, we also have a front end shimmy/ brake pulsation. Mechanic said to get the balding tires replaced first.

I think mine are starting to go.

I hear a pop/clunk turning at low speeds. I don't think it's tie rod related (no noise with rapid turning of the steering wheel back and forth).

when you are referring to the CONTROL ARM are you talking about #6 in illustration below?

#10 is the control arm. #6 is the thrust strut.

you may also want to consider this:
SI B 31 01 05
Body Equipment May 2005
Technical Service

SUBJECT
Front Wheel Bearing Noise

MODEL
E53 (X5) produced up to January 2005.

SITUATION
Metallic knocking noise heard coming from the front axle area or through the floor panel.

CAUSE
The wheel bearing seat comes loose in the swivel bearing.

See earlier posts like:
http://www.xoutpost.com/showthread.php?p=22333#post22333

I had this fix done and it solved the problem 100%. Not to say this is your
issue, but my dealer changed a bunch of stuff in the front end like bushings etc and
made no diff until this SB came out.
Good Luck

Thats what my problem is as well. I own a 4.4 2002 X5 that is having the same symptoms. It doesnt really bother me. Only when i step on the brake hard or when i go over a speed bump i can hear the clunky noise. Other than that its fine. My friend at the dealer told me that if i continue to drive it like that, my front tires are going to be ruined. The bushings are like $60.00 dlls the 2 in front (plus labor of course). So I guess I have to do it asap.

As a follow up, I finally got moved into my new house and got access to my tools and jack. I pulled the drivers side wheel today and started grabbing things to see what was loose. Initially everything seemed tight. I thought it might be the wheel bearing as well, so I put the wheel back on and started to move the wheel in the 3-9 position (side to side). There was some definite slippage, so again I thought wheel bearing. I got underneath and moved the wheel and saw the ball joint on the rear control arm move (part number 31126760275).

I'm relieved to know that it is the control arm instead of the wheel bearing, as I suspect the control arm will be a much easier swap. I'll post back hopefully confirming that this part was the cause of the problem.

Yes definately let us know. My X5 also has that clunk noise you are talking about. Keep me posted. thanks.

It is definitely sway bar links. Jeff was the first to point out this noise and advised me to get it fixed from stealer as it was till under warranty. I took it to ERHARD Farmington and they changed the sway bar links and everything is as smooth as fine scotch.

I hope not to offend, but I just said everything is tight as can be except the ball joint on the control arm. How can you make a diagnosis that the sway bar links are bad?

Let's just say for a moment that the sway bar links are bad. This wouldn't have anything to do with the wobble I get when braking as the sway bar does nothing to hold the wheel in place. It is a possibility that my sway bar links could be bad, but my control arm is definitely shot.

I posted a DIY (with UCrew's kind assistance) for sway bar link removal and install.

http://www.xoutpost.com/articles.php?...icle&artid=222

JV

Follow up: I replaced the control arm on the X5 & took it out for a test ride. The brake wobble and clunk are gone. I knew right away that the problem would be solved after replacing the control arm. When trying to move the hub assembly side to side the slop was gone.

The moral of the story is to thoroughly check all suspension components before just changing things. My sway bar links were fine and would have been a waste of money to change.

Glad you got it all figured out, man. Many culprits for suspension noises. Happy that you found the one that was your specific problem.

No offense, but for a $30 part, if your X has more than 50K on it, it's not a bad idea to do the links as you're doing the control arm. It is a part that will eventually wear, not difficult to do either when the wheel is already pulled.

JV

Well, I got to drive it for an extended period of time this evening. 90% of the suspension noise is gone, but there is still a small hollow sounding clunk. Maybe I'll give the sway bar links a try anyways!

I was curious to know if anyone has a time frame or milage schedule on how often the control arms need to be changed. I have an 01 3.0 and mine were done 2 years after I bought it at approx 26,000mi. I asked the dealer at the time if I was going to have to change them every 2 years, and was told that they have redesigned them to last longer. Any truth to this.

Now that BMW picks up maintenance for 4 years on new X5's, you bet your ass they last longer. They probably last for 4 years and 1 month, or for 49,000 miles. :D

JV

so guys in one sentence what is it? sway bar links, or control arms? :dunno: I need to know so i can replace mine.. thanks

We had the clunk too. Turned out to be loose sway bar links. Replaced under warranty. From looking at the DIY article, it looks like a cheap and easy fix.

Like I've mentioned earlier, it was pretty easy to tell that my control arm was bad. Just jack up the front wheel and try to shake from side to side. If there is play in the wheel, watch the ball joint on the control arm as you shake it. There was considerable play in the ball joint. Once I replaced it, it was tight as can be.

That being said, I have another hollow sounding clunk to deal with. Like another poster mentioned, if the car has 50K+ miles on it, it might not be a bad idea to replace the sway bar links anyways.

Picked up my links today . $33.00ea at the dealer. Will probably crawl under this weekend. As I said earlier, my CA's were changed 2yrs ago. I've got 56K on my X now and hoping I don't have to change them again so soon.

Changed the links this mourning. The thumping sound is gone. One issue down, one to go. I sure do miss my garage and power tools.

hey stwjazz7 ..were they hard to change? i need to replace mine too.. and what kind of tools do i need? :dunno:

JVZ104 thanks for the link. Did this fix the shimmy steering wheel as well?

I did not experience a shimmy, that is likely rotors or a wheel bearing. Uneven torque on lug nuts can warp the rotors (BMW spec. torque is 103ft.lbs per lug). I use what's called a 'whip stick' to put my lugs back on with an air wrench, and so far, so good. Vonchor posted a test flight for the wheel bearing problem:

http://www.xoutpost.com/showthread.php?p=22333#post22333

Try that out if you haven't already.

JV

It's apiece of cake. Aside from the lugnuts, 4 nuts. That's it. I must stress the need for the thin 8mm open end wrench to keep the link studs from rotating when tightening the nuts. Also. After removing the old links, I still found no indication of wear on them, but the thumping is gone.

I've got the same symptoms, how do you tell if you need to replace the sway bar links when it's on the lift?

is this problem cover by warranty?thanks (got the same thing too!)

You have to simulate a "load" on the suspension, which ain't easy. Otherwise, try to slide under while the vehicle is on level ground. I'd suggest if you're gonna DIY, and your X has over 40K miles on her, the parts are $60, so go for it, cause they'll need to be replaced eventually.

JV

It is very hard to tell if there is a problem with the sway bar links. One way that comes to mind is to take the sway bar links off, tie up the sway bar, and do a test drive. If the links are bad, the clunk should go away.

But if you are doing all of that work, just replace the damn things, since they are so cheap.

I think I've got the same problem, I'm gonna try to get the dealer to fix it under warrant my x5 only has 36k on it.

I know the link is #7 but what is the arm #?

#6 in the top picture.

tks!

[QUOTE=pyiu2]I think I've got the same problem, I'm gonna try to get the dealer to fix it under warrant my x5 only has 36


so it means it is covered by warranty?

Yes, if you are still under the warranty period then it should be covered.

how long would this take if you needed the link and the arm done 2 hours, would it be a waiter at the dealer?

thanks! :thumbup: