Washer Fluid Tank Leaking for 2 Years
 

It leaks somewhere at the pump not the tank itself. Should I have it replaced or just top it off (cheaper solution) I top it off every month in winter and every 2 months in other season, so about 8 topoffs a year, thats about $20. Should it fix it?

The pump is a common leak point on all BMW's. I would get a new washer pump and grommet (filter), and it would be a 5 minute or less DIY repair as it is VERY simple to replace.

I had the same problem, dealership asked $250 for new resv tank, came home, start looking around, apparantly I had some thing stuck in one of the 2 motors, the motor to the rear was working hard but since the clog it kept pushing out of the small hose, all i did was took the motors out, cleaned, tighten it up anf voila, it is all set, still have the same washer fluid and I am $250 richer.

Hooray misdiagnosis!

Do we have any DIY with pictures on the forum?

i pulled the small hose off the pump and put pipe thread compound on the pump outlet and put the hose back on...its perfect.

Not that I know of, but I didn't exactly search either. But the washer solvent bottle has one 10mm screw on top, remove it. Pull the reservoir up and unplug the wires from the pump(s). (if you have 2 pumps, the smaller one to the rear is for the windshield washers) Then pull the hose off of the pump nipple. pull the pump straight up/out. Pull out and replace the push in grommet, insert the new pump, and the rest should be self explanatory. :D

All in all it is one of the easiest DIY jobs on the X5.

Check to see if it is just the grommet. I have had to, and now have to again, replace a grommet, pump may be fine.

mine was just elbow fitting
 

I had same problem. Bought the $35 washer pump and the fluid
leaked out again. Then just fooling around I saw that the elbow fitting
was bad. Took it off and just cut tip of hose off, reconnected it
and fixed!
Anybody want to buy a new washer pump??

right now my windshield washer fluid is working fine for the windshield but my headlamp washer nothing coming out. rear is working fine too. what should I check?

I'd start with the fuse, then you could check power to the pump motor with a volt meter or test light. It's the bigger pump with the bigger diameter output hose on the washer bottle.

ok i took out all the pumps and checked and there is no blockage. i will try the test. thanks. do you know which fuse number is for that one large pump?

not off hand, but you could find it in the "onlineWDS" link on the page top, thats the wiring diagrams.

check for the elbow connectors from the head lights sprayers it may been loose or crack (check under the bumber for water leak)

checked the headlamp washers. no leaks. i've took off the tank too and there is no cracks. when I press the headlamp washer button nothing comes out from the headlamps but just the windshield washers. I've checked the elbows and no clogs. should I try blowing the lines with a compressor?

ok I will look. they have separate fuses for each of the pumps?

My windshield wiper reservoir is empty after three days. Yesterday, I tried to show my dad the seemingly cloggged rear windshield wiper washer, and I think one of these hoses may have popped off the tank which is making all the fluid leak. The inside of my car seems completely dry, haven't noticed anything wet. Is it just a loose hose?

You won't know until you fill the reservoir with water, and watch to see where it is leaking. Look around the bottom of the reservoir, where the pumps are mounted.

Check the tank itself. More often than not it is the grommets holding onto the washer pumps that go bad and leak. If it is not too cold, fill the tank with water and see if you see a leak. If it is cold then fill with washer fluid and do as said.

Mine was making all 8 liters waste in 2 days. (it was wet under the reservoir(costs 15$ @junkies)) but then all of a sudden it stopped...

I have the same issue. What did you do to resolve it? Replace reservoir?

Read the thread. It is usually the pumps where they are installed in the reservoir. There is a grommet there. Easy to diagnose.

sometimes the one of the washer pumps develops a leak, sometimes it's the grommets.

agreed check those rubber seals around those 2 black pumps or sometimes where the sensor is has a leak too...

Verified my Reservoir didn't leak. Heated up my grommets. Snipped off the ends of the tubing on both pumps. Filled it back up with fluid. No leaks right now. Only time will tell. Will monitor it and report back.

Washer fluid is leaking out of my headlight washers

In my case the leak was from the washer pump itself. I replaced with a new one for $42 from http://thebmwminipartstore.com/. The old one was all rusty inside.

Parts View
 

Washer Pumps parts exploded view
If you have blue colored stains near a pump, line, connector, bucket---YOU HAVE/had LEAKS.

The X5 with only winshield washers have just one pump. If you have front and rear washers, and headlamps you have two little pumps and the big one is the headlamp washer. This is such a common failure that everyone makes the replacement pumps. Search any vendor and compare before buying OE.

If you have not removed this bucket, I would recommend removing the whole assembly, after disconnecting the hose lines and electrical connections, washing the bucket out with some a weak solution of Clorox (1/2 cup per gal) to remove any dirt and mold build up.

The pumps should ALWAYS be replaced with the seals (screens) #3 & 12.
Lines leak, right angle plastic connectors crack, pumps fail (some even even leak with no pressure others spray everywhere when turned on). After 10+ years just replace them. Those who's X5 were not well respected by former owners might want to see if the bucket itself is cracked due to plain water being used in winter months. Beats having to mop up "blue fluid" on the garage floor weekly.:thumbup:

Carefull of using compressed air to "clean lines" as the rear washer lines will pop off giving you a leak in to the battery well. Not a good thing, as all the electronics are down there too!

As mentioned before, this repair is easy. Two nuts holding down the bucket, a few electrical connectors, and a hose or two or three depending on your X.

Image from Penske Parts - Technical Diagrams & Parts Catalog
http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsM...png?v=03192010

#Part Number DescriptionlbQtyhttp://www.penskeparts.com/images/infoheader.gifEach
01 61667007880 COVER F WINDSHIELD CLEANING CONTAINER (to 09/06)0.02 1 NAhttp://www.penskeparts.com/images/infoheader.gif 61667007880 was superseded by 61667228601.
01 61667228601 COVER F WINDSHIELD CLEANING CONTAINER0.02 1 NAhttp://www.penskeparts.com/images/infoheader.gif 61667228601 was superseded by 61667264145.
01 61667264145 COVER F WINDSHIELD CLEANING CONTAINER0.02 1 $4.12
02 61678252738 HEAD LAMP CLEANING DEVICE CONTAINER1.24 1 $188.29
03 61667006063 STRAINER F WASH PUMP 2 $2.80
04 67128362154 WASH PUMP0.22 2 $62.54
05 61661365848 STRAINER F WATER CONTAINER (to 09/00) 1 $3.95
06 17137524812 LEVELLING SWITCH0.02 1 $18.80
17137524812 was superseded by 17137553919.
07 16131176747 PLASTIC NUT - M6 2 $0.50
08 61688252747 CONNECTION PIECE 1 $3.78
09 61668362762 HOSE LINE (meter)0.09 1 $7.17
10 61668374371 SUPPORT 1 $3.47
11 67128377430 WASH PUMPE F HEAD LAMP CLEANING DEVICE0.37 1 $93.82
12 61678374382 STRAINER F WASH PUMP0.02 1 $4.87
13 61138364520 UNIVERSAL SOCKET HOUSING UNCODED - 2 POL.0.01 2 $1.63
61130009633 DOUBLE FLAT SPRING CONTACT, MDK3 W. WIRE - 0,5-1,0 MM²0.01 4 $3.03
14 61138365340 UNIVERSAL SOCKET HOUSING UNCODED - 2 POL. 1 $3.27-- 61130005199 BUSHING CONTACT - 0,2- 0,5MM²0.01 2 $2.75

Makes sense. One of my pumps seem to have a rust spot in and around some drain hole looking thing on the pump itself. I believe it's my rear pump. If it leaks again, I may repair of just block the hole on the reservoir.

Dam I only paid $6 for mine

Exactly! I did the same repair and only needed the grommet.

Anybody have a fix for fluid leaking out of the headlight washers?

PARTS VIEW HEADLAMP WASHER
 

http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsM...png?v=03192010


The real question you should ask is "WHERE is it leaking?" A few of the common issues are:

• The line from the pump to the front bumper at every plastic connector
• The nozzel #9 check valve leaking or broken, so washer fluid just runs out of the nozzel onto the bumper as soon as you refill the "HEAD LAMP CLEANING DEVICE CONTAINER" better known as a reservoir bucket.
• At the line someone forgot to reconnect (My personal favorite)

Well fluid is coming out of all the nozzles so I'm gonna need 4 of #9 is what your saying?

No, that is not what I am saying.
If you have fluid leaking out of the nozzels tips or body (not under pressure, just leakes out when driving or sitting still), then you will need to replace each bumper mounted nozzel. I have never seen all four fail, unless frozen and broken due to an owner using water in place of washer solvent rated to -40. If it is colder than that in your area then all bets are off. The nozzels have little check balls in them to stop dribbles, pressure from the pumps push them open to allow fluid flow. When they fall apart, all the fluid just runs out at the nozzels as fast as the lines will flow, draining the bucket usually in 1 day.

If however, your nozzels squirt under presure, do not leak after pushing the selector stalk (button on streering wheel lever) but there is a leak somewhere under the X, you get to go searching for the break in the line from the tank pump all the way to each and every nozzel.
If blue fluid is leaking on the ground other than from a spray nozzel tip, you got a break somewhere.

Helpful?

like I said fluid leaks out of all 4 so I need to replace each bumper mounted nozzles

the all work it's just they all have a slow leak and leaves washer fluid stains on my bumper like my car is crying

You hit the jackpot. Yes, based on your description that is the classic example of broken nozzels. There is a clip up under the bumper facing holding each one in place. You will need to remove the front bumper, place it on something soft so you will not scratch it to death. Pry out each clip holding the nozzel, remove the hose, pull off the painted cap cover and seal.

Sounds tough but it is not a big deal. Check out the postings on bumber removal and you will be fine. Use two people to replace the bumper as the end clips that hold the sides are a metal tab, a plastic moulding, and a few screws holding it to the fender. Easy to break and bend. If your current bumper is not flush on each side, now would be a good time to order the little bracket and mouldings.

I do not know what year and config you have, so the front bumper image below is for the 4.8is, 2004+

http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsM...png?v=03192010

This one is for the 4.4 10/2003+

Number 4 is the moulding trim that aligns up the fender edges
http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsM...png?v=0319201051_5274 - FRONT BUMPER TRIM PANEL (FROM 10/03)


04 51117116667 MOUNT, LATERAL, BUMPER, FRONT LEFT (from 10/03)
04 51117116668 MOUNT, LATERAL, BUMPER, FRONT RIGHT (from 10/03)
$20.72

sounds good I have a 06 3.0

Order part number 4 (both sides) before taking the bumper off.

Old plastic is brittle. I broke both mine when I had my bumper off a while back (and I was being particularly careful == for me anyway).