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Junster 02-08-2009 11:01 PM

"Check Brake Linings" Message Center
 
My Mechanic just replaced all 4 pads and both front and rear sensors today. We both tried the turn on ignition and wait for a minute. turn it off and start. Didn't work. Any other trick, should I just get a tool that will reset or should I just have BMW reset it?

Thanks!

JCL 02-08-2009 11:04 PM

There is nothing to reset, if the sensors were changed. It goes off after a few minutes. If it doesn't, it is likely that the sensors are not connected properly, as an open circuit is the same effect as a worn sensor.

xnsf 02-08-2009 11:05 PM

That's weird, the error message should disappear when new sensors are installed. Are you sure the replacement sensors aren't worn?

Junster 02-08-2009 11:08 PM

both brand new sensors.

4.6is Ryder 02-08-2009 11:08 PM

Did you have the key in position 2......Phil

Junster 02-08-2009 11:09 PM

yes, position 2 for 50-60 seconds. turn 0 then start -- still the same.

alpac 02-08-2009 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCL
There is nothing to reset, if the sensors were changed. It goes off after a few minutes. If it doesn't, it is likely that the sensors are not connected properly, as an open circuit is the same effect as a worn sensor.

:iagree: Everything should go back to normal after driving for few minutes

JCL 02-08-2009 11:26 PM

Try not returning it to position 0, just start it and drive it.

X5 Meister 02-09-2009 03:03 AM

As the guys said above, they will eventually go off if they are connected properly. Older BMW's E36, etc would go off after a longer interval and even BMW had an SIB saying that there was no specific interval, they would just 'eventually' turn off!

iop9000 02-09-2009 05:22 AM

Double check the pin connectors if they are not bent. They are easily bent if inserted improperly

Junster 02-09-2009 04:05 PM

Still the same. Check Brake Linings Come on and Red Brake light on.

X5 Meister 02-09-2009 05:38 PM

Wait a week and see if it doesn't fix itself. If not, trying installing a new set of sensors to see if that is the problem.

hayaku 02-09-2009 09:17 PM

disconnect the sensors, clean the connectors and reconnect... for some reason your computer is not able to read from the sensors.

4 Wheels of Fun 02-09-2009 09:55 PM

try the reset procedure again and depress the brake pedal during the waiting period my light went away shortly after that...if that doesn't do it the sensor is not connected properly or is damaged or defective.

Junster 02-10-2009 09:42 AM

thanks and I will let you know

Junster 02-10-2009 05:06 PM

looks like i will have to try to disconnect and reconnect.

Junster 02-17-2009 05:43 PM

Turn out to be unsecure connections on the rear sensor. All good now. Thanks for all the reponses.

mthexuma 02-18-2009 08:49 PM

When you go to enter the car leave the drivers door open and then turn the key to position 2 until the brake warning light goes out. Then start the car and you should be good. Thats what I did and it worked for me when I changed the brakes this weekend.

I actually think I may have installed the front sensor in the rear and vica versa....yet it appears to be working!

JCL 02-19-2009 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mthexuma
When you go to enter the car leave the drivers door open and then turn the key to position 2 until the brake warning light goes out. Then start the car and you should be good. Thats what I did and it worked for me when I changed the brakes this weekend.

I actually think I may have installed the front sensor in the rear and vica versa....yet it appears to be working!

Hard to imagine that would work if the wires weren't connected properly, as in the case above.

The sensors are the same front and rear, except for the length of the wire. You may find that the wire gets damaged if you reversed them front and rear.

MPDano 03-29-2009 03:58 PM

Is it me or is my 2004 X5 only got 2 sensors? 1 left front and 1 right rear.

X5 Meister 03-29-2009 04:25 PM

Correct, they all do.

MPDano 03-29-2009 04:29 PM

Ok, cool. Thought I was seeing things. My old Porsche 928 has all 4, which I was basing my finding. Good to know. Thanks.

dpgx5 05-06-2009 05:53 PM

Anyone got a picture of where and what the sensor looks like... This message came on today... Dont wanna bring it in until i try the simple things that members have mentioned clean etc. So if anyone can be helpful... thank you :)

JCL 05-06-2009 07:03 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by dpgx5 (Post 617390)
Anyone got a picture of where and what the sensor looks like... This message came on today... Dont wanna bring it in until i try the simple things that members have mentioned clean etc. So if anyone can be helpful... thank you :)

Left front caliper, and right rear. Clips onto one pad. Photos below are from hayaku's DIY article under How To's (link at the top of the page).

blainesdad 05-07-2009 10:15 AM

being a newb to the bmw world. we bought a 2006 4.4i recently and i am trying to learn all i can about them. i plan on doing my own maintenance work on the unit, as i have basic mechanic skills on other makes.

my question is, when this brake warning light appears, if i change the brakes and rotors within a couple days, should the sensors still be good? so i won't have to replace them?

also where is the best place to buy the brake parts? price wise?

JCL 05-07-2009 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blainesdad (Post 617622)
being a newb to the bmw world. we bought a 2006 4.4i recently and i am trying to learn all i can about them. i plan on doing my own maintenance work on the unit, as i have basic mechanic skills on other makes.

my question is, when this brake warning light appears, if i change the brakes and rotors within a couple days, should the sensors still be good? so i won't have to replace them?

also where is the best place to buy the brake parts? price wise?

Welcome to our community!

The sensor is a one-time use device. When the pad is sufficiently thin, the rotor makes contact with the sensor and wears through it, breaking contact and causing the light to go on. You have to replace the sensor then. Even if the light hasn't come on, it is usually a good idea to replace the sensors because they become brittle with age and heat, and they are cheap.

Suggest you click on the How To link at the top of the page, and read the DIY guides on brakes.

The sensor is an OEM dealer part, but some on-line retailers sell them as well. I just get them from the dealer. For pads, suggest you look at Zeckhausen Racing (a board sponsor) and ask them about Axxis Deluxe pads (they name changed up, but it is still similar to that). I like OEM rotors, but Centric from Zeckhausen look reasonable as well.

blainesdad 05-07-2009 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCL (Post 617659)
Welcome to our community!

The sensor is a one-time use device. When the pad is sufficiently thin, the rotor makes contact with the sensor and wears through it, breaking contact and causing the light to go on. You have to replace the sensor then. Even if the light hasn't come on, it is usually a good idea to replace the sensors because they become brittle with age and heat, and they are cheap.

Suggest you click on the How To link at the top of the page, and read the DIY guides on brakes.

The sensor is an OEM dealer part, but some on-line retailers sell them as well. I just get them from the dealer. For pads, suggest you look at Zeckhausen Racing (a board sponsor) and ask them about Axxis Deluxe pads (they name changed up, but it is still similar to that). I like OEM rotors, but Centric from Zeckhausen look reasonable as well.

I really appreciate the information. Can you give me a ballpark of what kind of cost the parts will be? I know our local dealer will do brakes for like $450. So the Axxis Deluxe brakes better than OEM? How is life on the Axxis brakes?

dpgx5 05-07-2009 03:15 PM

I also appreciate your help .... Thanks :)

dpgx5 05-07-2009 06:13 PM

BTW is the X still driveable, with this message? And does this mean I should look into doing the brakes? I will be going to change the wheels to my summer 20's so I will get my machanic to clean em first and inspect. thanks again.

JCL 05-07-2009 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blainesdad (Post 617671)
I really appreciate the information. Can you give me a ballpark of what kind of cost the parts will be? I know our local dealer will do brakes for like $450. So the Axxis Deluxe brakes better than OEM? How is life on the Axxis brakes?

If 450 is per axle, with new rotors, that isn't bad. If that is just pads, it is expensive.

OEM is the safe choice, it will stop and have brake pedal feel just like original. I like Axxis Deluxe pads because there is no dust, pad life is longer, and there is almost the same low noise. I found some noise on the first stop after parking for days, more than OEM, but nothing to worry about. If the dust doesn't bother you, go OEM. If you want to get rid of the dust, Axxis is a good choice.

JCL 05-07-2009 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpgx5 (Post 617792)
BTW is the X still driveable, with this message? And does this mean I should look into doing the brakes? I will be going to change the wheels to my summer 20's so I will get my machanic to clean em first and inspect. thanks again.

Yes, it is still driveable, but it needs brakes on either the front or rear axle. You have hundreds of miles to go before it is metal on metal, if the pads wore evenly (and sometimes they don't). Recall that there are only two sensors, and the RF often wears more than the LF where the sensor is, due to road grit. I wouldn't worry about driving it 500-1000 miles, but I would listen and if I heard metal grinding noises, then I would know I had pushed it too far.

blainesdad 05-08-2009 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCL (Post 617796)
If 450 is per axle, with new rotors, that isn't bad. If that is just pads, it is expensive.

OEM is the safe choice, it will stop and have brake pedal feel just like original. I like Axxis Deluxe pads because there is no dust, pad life is longer, and there is almost the same low noise. I found some noise on the first stop after parking for days, more than OEM, but nothing to worry about. If the dust doesn't bother you, go OEM. If you want to get rid of the dust, Axxis is a good choice.


less dust definately sounds better, so that is why i am leaning towards the axxis pads when needed. where is the best place to buy rotors and sensors at?

flmrustic 05-08-2009 09:54 AM

Zeckhausen for sure.
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JCL (Post 617659)
Welcome to our community!

The sensor is a one-time use device. When the pad is sufficiently thin, the rotor makes contact with the sensor and wears through it, breaking contact and causing the light to go on. You have to replace the sensor then. Even if the light hasn't come on, it is usually a good idea to replace the sensors because they become brittle with age and heat, and they are cheap.

Suggest you click on the How To link at the top of the page, and read the DIY guides on brakes.

The sensor is an OEM dealer part, but some on-line retailers sell them as well. I just get them from the dealer. For pads, suggest you look at Zeckhausen Racing (a board sponsor) and ask them about Axxis Deluxe pads (they name changed up, but it is still similar to that). I like OEM rotors, but Centric from Zeckhausen look reasonable as well.

Just replaced front and rear pads,rotors and sensors. Used Centric rotors, Axxis ceramics, bedded them in and they are the best brakes I've had since day one. I anticipate longer wear with the ceramics. Never could get more than 17K with the OEM front pads. AND A BIG PLUS, minimal brake dust!!

blainesdad 05-08-2009 10:30 AM

alright, i have done brakes on several other domestic vehicles(particularly my trucks) and i am not familiar with the term bedding in the pads. what does that mean and how does one go about doing this?

JCL 05-08-2009 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blainesdad (Post 617956)
alright, i have done brakes on several other domestic vehicles(particularly my trucks) and i am not familiar with the term bedding in the pads. what does that mean and how does one go about doing this?

In the words of the brake pad manufacturers, you are depositing a thin layer of pad material on the surface of the rotor, to improve the friction characteristics at the pad/rotor interface. I think of it more as wearing down the ridges so that the pad fits the rotor, but I tend to believe the pad manufacturers. BMW say in the owners manual that brakes will not be 100% effective for the first few hundred kilometers, so I think it is really the same thing. It consists of a number of hard stops from medium speed, until the pads are good and hot. After that, do not park but instead drive around until the pads cool. If you park, one part of the rotor stays hotter than another, and that can lead to a pulsing brake pedal from uneven pad deposition. That is the theory, anyway. The detailed procedure is contained on the zeckhausen racing site, under bedding brake pads. Lots of links on this board as well if you search.

www.zeckhausenracing.com - click on the Technical tab, then "How to Bed in Brake Pads"

StopTech - Brake Pad Bed-in Theory


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