The main difference between BMW coolant and others is it has a different PH level that is a little better for the life of the plastic components and for corrosion prevention with the bi-metal engines as well.

As of saturday they are still not sure what the problem is. The SA told me they were going to put in a new instrument cluster and see if that is the problem. My pixels have been a problem in my cluster. They have had it now for 3 day and still no answers.

If the voltage is good my next bet would be a bad ground.

Ok well I got the the call today. After further review it ends up being the DME unit main fuse. Invoice says that they checked power and ground at each control module on PT-CAN using break out box and then they removed the E-BOX cover to check power and ground at the DME . I just wonder maybe why they would not have checked the DME from the begining so that they would no that the DME has the proper voltage or not. I am no TECH but if the DME has no power wouldn't that mean the other modules would have no power?
Anyway 3 day and $415 later iI got a new fuse. I guess it could have worse.

Well wife was on the way to preschool this morning. This time she ended up in a ditch somehow. The X just all of a sudden cut out again this time while on the road. Same problem again. My guess is that the fuse is blown again. On the rollback again heading back to BMW.

weasel56 being a tech what is your experience with this if any? I am sure it could be a number of thing but does anything jump out front for causing this fuse to blow?

Jeez..i'm sorry about your bad luck man..I'd be effing pissed right now..

You think I am pissed, STAY AWAY FROM MY EFFING WIFE!! She is really pissed.

Nothing common so it would take actual diagnosis. I'd start by remembering OHM's law and checking all connections in the circuit, maybe a voltage drop test... If a certain circuit keeps blowing a fuse, there's a reason for it and that is what the tech needs to find. When you talk to the dealer, ask for the shop foreman and explain to him what is happening and request for him to personally assist a master tech with the electrical diagnosis of your vehicle to ensure it is actually properly diagnosed. And suggest he drive it for a day after it is fixed to fully ensure it really is while you're still in their loaner. (yes, we do this at our dealer... to ensure the weird problem vehicles are properly fixed)

Turns out its the connector/wires comming from the themostat which was loose causing a short. SA said they were able to get this to happen in the shop and it did blow the fuse. So the said that they would replace it for us at a cost of $250 which is minus the $415 we spent the day before. They also said I need a radiator(which I already knew). They quoated $1150 to do the stat and radiator but I opted to do the radiator myself. I hope this is the end of this problem.