RESOLVED: SES CODE P1092 [P1190] [BMW 235]
 

Hey guys - need some help, especially from the techs or more technically inclined than I.

'06 X5 3.0L, auto, 90K miles

Problem started at 87K miles
Since the problem started, I've done a 60K maintenance.

FINAL UPDATE: Resolution provided in post #20.

at 87k miles you might as well do the basic tune up

Thanks for the reply. I was considering just doing a basic tune up anyway but since the coil packs aren't part of that routine - I didn't want to go blowing money on everything else other than the source of the problem.

To address the codes and in getting a tune up done, I've got the following planned for next weekend:

New cabin microfilter
New Fuel filter
New Oil Separator/Crankcase Vent Valve/PCV valve
Cleaning the ICV, MAF sensor & throttle bodies
Crankcase/oil system cleaning w/Berryman's B12
Intake valve cleaning w/Lubro Moly Ventil Sauber
Fresh Oil & Filter change
VANOS Seals replacement (My X is the I6)
Valve cover gasket replacement
New plugs (NGK Iridium)
New boots for the coil packs

New front brake rotors
New pads & sensors all around
Brake fluid flush

Air filter and both O2 sensors were replaced by the dealer less than 1K miles ago so not touching those.

I think the new plugs, new boots for the coil packs, new fuel filter, oil separator, VANOS seals and cleaning of the MAF sensor should all contribute to ending my woes with the SES light and my air/fuel metering probs & this new misfire/low fuel code. I've also confirmed that the intake tract doesn't have any cracks but once I pull it all out, I will double check.

So out of the list above, I only managed to do the following due to time restrictions, mostly.

New rotors on the front
New pads all around
Brake fluid flush

New microfilter
Crankcase cleaning. Used Seafoam instead of Berrymans.
New oil & filter
Valve cleaning using Lubro Moly Ventil Sauber
Cleaned the ICV, DISA, MAF and Throttle body
New plugs (NGK Iridium IX) - no noticeable difference. BOSCH/BMW plugs were in it before although I was under the impression that BMW used NGK as was the case for my E39.

Boots for the plugs were the wrong ones but after inspection, the existing boots looked pretty good.

Planning to do the VANOS seal replacement and a cooling system flush next weekend. That should be a good 7 hours. With that will come the valve cover replacement.

Replacing the oil separator looks like the job from hell. After pulling out the air intake boots and ICV, I still couldn't see the oil separator clearly enough to actually work on it.

The fuel filter has boggled my mind. It seems as if there is a belly pan underneath the tank but as to how you get it down, I have no clue. There are bolts and screws which are easily removed but on my '06 there are also what looks like pop rivets that I have no clue how to remove.

Did you get the fuel filter replaced yet? I am guessing that is what the codes were for. 02 codes can come and go as the computer tries to learn and compensate for abnormalities in the equipment or environment. I would not romp on it if you get the lean/low fuel code again. Don't want to burn it up if that is actually the case. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail that I believe you can put a mechanical gauge on and see for yourself if you really are getting fuel at the rail, and more importantly if you get correct pressure at WOT. One problem though...you will have to figure out what fuel pressure is ideal, because I don't think I have ever seen that number before. I would be curious to find it though.

No never did yet but I do feel the same way. The CEL/SES went out 2 days ago but came on again the following day. I've been romping on it quite a lot actually only because i've got fresh plugs and some wicked oil in there. But the fuel filter has boggled my mind on how to get to it. I started to take out the bolts for the belly pan, maybe about 8-10 of them and then got around to the side nearest the driveshaft and there are pop rivets there. No bolts. And it's firmly in place. A co-worker of mine bought the repair DVD off ebay and was going to make me a copy. I was going to see if that had the procedure documented before throwing down for the Bentley.

HELP NEEDED: Additional Diagnostic Info
 

OK so it's been a while but I'm still dealing with this problem but have done much since. The P0313 code has gone away.

The P1092 has persisted.

HISTORY
Since originally deciding to give the car a large 60K tune up, I've replaced the following within the last 3K miles that I feel would contrbute to solving the problem:

*New Valve Cover Gasket
*Oil & Filter Change [Total Quartz INEO MC3 5w-30]
VANOS Seals Replacement [Seals & VANOS Body Gasket]
NGK Iridium IX plugs
Fuel Filter
CCV Valve & Hoses
Coolant drain & fill [BMW Coolant & Distilled Water]
New OE BMW air filter
New Pre-cat Bank 1 O2 sensor replaced @ 86.5K miles by dealer, prior to me taking ownership of the vehicle.

Other items that should have no bearing on the code are:

New Brake Pads all around and new rotors up front
Brake fluid flush
New Transmission fluid [Valvoline DEX VI & filter | Drained and filled 2x]
Drain and fill of front and rear differential with OE BMW fluid [Castrol XAF-XJ]
Drain and fill of transfer case with OE BMW fluid
Drain and fill of power steering fluid with ATF
New cabin air filter
New OE 17" size tires

As far as service goes:

2 Fuel System Cleaners [20z Chevron Techron Concentrate & 15oz Redline SI-1]
Reset throttle adaptation
Cleaned MAF sensor with CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner
Cleaned ICV, DISA & Throttle body butterfly valve
LubroMoly Ventil Sauber via the brake booster line to clean top end

In removing the air ducting to clean the intake components and replace the CCV, I checked the hoses for cracks but found none. I paid attention to the elbow/accordian that shoots off to the ICV but it was OK.

The items I starred (*) above are what I believe might possibly be causing the condition. Although I torqued the valve cover gaskets down to spec, it could possibly still be leaky. I have not had a smoke test done yet. The oil I've used seems to be burning quite fast, about 1.5 quarts in 2000 miles. I'll be switching to German Castrol this weekend. I should also add that I only use Shell VPower (93 Octane).

TROUBLESHOOTING
BMW's P1092 code is defined as: Pre-Catalyst Fuel Trim Too Lean Bank 2
This is similar to the generic code of P0174. From OBD-CODES.com, P0174 is typically a vacuum leak after the MAF, a dirty MAF or a clogged fuel filter. OBD-II Trouble Code: P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)

Using my MAC Tools ET50 code reader, I was able to capture the freeze frame data, just today after clearing the codes last night. I have cleared it again and I'm certain it will come on again, so I will do the freeze frame again to determine if the values and conditions are similar.

This is where I really need your help, especially the techs. I have no clue how to diagnose this using this information but I figure someone out there might be able to help with this information.

Calculated Load : 47.84%
Coolant Temp : 87.0 C [188.6 F]
Engine Speed : 2285 RPM
Vehicle Speed : 59.00 kmh [36.7 mph]
Ignition Timing : 26.00 BDTC
Intake Air Temp : 30.0 C [86.0 F]
Mass Air Flow : 34.69 g/s
Throttle Position : 18.82%

Short term fuel trim Bank 1: 4.67%
Short term fuel trim Bank 2: 3.89%

Long term fuel trim Bank 1: -3.91%
Long term fuel trim Bank 2: -3.91%

At the time I recall the light coming on, I was slowing down to approach a traffic light. The outside air temperature as reported by the dash/cluster was 23.0 C [73.4 F]. Fuel mileage is a steady 18.0 MPG combined as confirmed by the dash/instrument cluster and the last fill up calculation. Range upon a fill up today showed 484 miles. Only noticeable driveability has been due to the oil burning and engine doesn't feel as smooth.

To add insult to injury - this is the strangest part of all. A coworker of mine that I typically go to lunch with every now and again, will get in the car, we'll drive over to wherever, come out and the light goes off. Meanwhile, it's been on for days. This has happened 3 times now. I know it's ridiculous but it was significant enough to mention it. I have NO IDEA what this has to do with it. And then on my way home, the light comes back on again. Go figure! :dunno:

So after doing some reading on how to read fuel trim data [I found this website very useful in understanding fuel trim: Driveability Corner | Motor | Find Articles at BNET]

It looks like it could potentially be a bad MAF sensor however the fault should've triggered both banks to run lean. Given the history of the vehicle where the Bank 1 O2 sensor was already replaced, this may be pointing to a bad or soon-to-be bad Bank 2 O2 sensor.

I'm going to swap the O2 sensors tonight and see if the code changes. Also, the light came on again today on the way into work but at highway speeds. I'm going to pull the freeze frame data later and post as I imagine the operating conditions are different.

i aint no expert but the ignition timing at 26.00 dont sound right .
that could be crank sensor or cam sensor or possibly something to do with valvetronic . also , is the crank vent system functioning correctly

I'm glad you mentioned that. Two things:

1. I'm not even sure what the value represents or what it's supposed to be.
2. When I stop, I hear like a sizzling noise coming from what I think is the CCV.

The reason I starred (*) the oil up in post #8 is because I believe it to be burning of fairly rapidly and if it's getting past the rings into the combustion chamber, then it could possibly be adding excess moisture into the crankcase possibly leading to my sizzling noise. The CCV was recently replaced, by me but this P1092 code persisted prior to its replacement.

Today's Fuel Trim Readings

Calculated Load : 35.68%
Coolant Temp: 78.0 C

S.T. Fuel Trim B1 : 9.36%
L.T. Fuel Trim B1 : .77%

ST. Fuel Trim B2 : 10.92%
L.T. Fuel Trim B2 : .77%

Engine Speed : 2694.00 RPM
Vehicle Speed : 118.00 kmh
Ignition Timing : 27.50 BDTC
Intake Air Temp : 31.0 C
Mass Air Flow : 34.21 g/s
Throttle Position : 16.47%

OK so the problem gets a little nuttier. Today I did the drain and fill with the new German Castrol stuff. Immediate impressions = :wow:. I can't believe the way it feels as compared to the Total stuff. It's so much smoother. I don't have that grainy/noisy/gritty feel under my foot when at the gas pedal. On the freeway - gearing down and taking it to redline is MUCH smoother. Engine doesn't feel like it's running out of steam. I'm impressed.

But we'll see if my oil burning issues are actually resolved.

As for the O2 problem - what a pain in my ass. I swapped the O2 sensors from Bank 2 to Bank 1 and Bank 1 to Bank 2. Cleared the codes, went for a 2hr roundtrip drive. Light came back on after only 10 miles. Code is THE SAME! Ugh. P1092. I was hoping it would change and I'd just have to buy a new O2 sensor and call it a day.... I took a pic of the sensors when I pulled them out. Any opinions??

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...r/SSPX0040.jpg

Bank 2 definitely looks like the leaner of the two. And Bank 1 is actually a new (~3000mi) sensor. I'm going to pull the plugs later on and take a snap shot of those as well.

OK so I pulled the plugs..
 

Photo of all 6: Close-up, they all look identical. Sorry for the out of focus close-ups. Used a camera phone as my normal camera is out for service. But from the coloring of the plugs - it's a little more sooty around the rim/base that I would expect. These plugs are about 3K miles old. I also suspected I had some oil burning issues. I've sinced switched to GC [0w-30] but seems my oil burning issues may be continuing.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...r/SSPX0048.jpg

Photo of Cylinder #6's plug:
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...r/SSPX0049.jpg

Picture of Cylinder #5's plug:
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...r/SSPX0050.jpg

Picture of Cylinder #4's plug:
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...r/SSPX0051.jpg

So it seems that after pulling the plugs and tightening them alot more than I did when I replaced them and clearing the codes, the SES light has remained off. It's been 24hours and 30 miles. I'm crossing my fingers at this point. But thinking it through - it could be possible that one or more plug in cylinders 4-6 were not tightened properly (my fault) and could have been letting air in through the threads. Given the amount of combustion that occurs in the chamber, it's just one big vacuum. Lesson learned. Hopefully this is the fix.

Well that wasn't it - at least not for now. Code returned and it's the same. I'll torque down the spark plugs properly and report back.

My guess would have been the oxygen sensors. I cannot think of anything else. :dunno:

Dan

Thanks for taking the time to read Dan. I appreciate it.

I've now torqued the plugs down to 21ft/lbs (no anti-seize per BMW recommendations). I also pulled the negative battery cable for 30 mins and did the throttle adaptation reset procedure. After 2 starts and 17 miles, light came back on. I'll post the fuel trim data again later today.

RESOLVED!
 

OK so to finally put this issue to bed after troubleshooting this since March '09, here was my prob (all of them):

1. Used stupid Actron or generic OBD-II scanner to get P codes instead of BMW specific codes
2. After cat O2 sensor in Bank 1
3. Didn't take it to my indy sooner

So after biting the bullet and taking it to my indy Integated Automotive Services (IAS) in Easton, PA [Love those guys], they gave me the BMW code of 235 which was equivalent to P code P1190, not P1092 as I had been getting all along. So I coughed up the $30 for that diagnosis (I'm a cheapskate).

So my problem rested in bank 1, not bank 2 as I had been troubleshooting.

Nevertheless, the BMW code 235 simply translated to: "Pre-cat sensor Bank 1, Trim Control". I used my 330i - ODB-II Codes this translator/converter and plugged in P1190.

Problem was, the Pre-cat in bank 1 was new. Both bank 1's on each side were new. Going on the mentality that the after cat sensors played no part in fuel metering and simply monitored the health of the cats, I disregarded them when the after-cat sensor in bank 1 was the culprit. After reading extensively on definititions and explanations of P1190 and the BMW 235 code, I still came up with nothing. Except 1, one, sole entry in a forum thread that actually made sense. Where this guy got this explanation from, I have no idea, but it sounded official. I found it here: Anyone know what this fault code means? - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum

The explanation was: BMW fault 235 = O2 sensor-heater, Post Cat. (Bank 1) Insufficient heating. "Checks the amount of time it takes to heat the o2 sensor to a predetermined limit as measured by the change in the lean signal. The test occurs during deceleration only."

It made sense because when I first took the car to the indy, the day before I had reset the light which resets the collected data. I took it for a short trip (about 30 miles) then to the indy. They said that whatever was tripping the light off, did it 32 times in that trip. I thought to myself that it is entirely possible that I decelerated 32 times.

So I picked up the O2 sensor at my local NAPA and popped it in. While the SES light was still on the dash before the repair, as soon as I got done, the light went off immediately after starting it up.

It's been about 3000 miles now since the replacement and all is well. Although gas mileage was relatively unaffected while this issue went on, I'm now averaging 20.6MPG over 2000 miles as opposed to my previous 19.1. I've also learned a valuable lesson and will never trust the generic P codes again and instead, will always get the BMW specific code first.

I've had pretty good luck with my Actron scanner. It has helped me tremendously on multiple jobs. I believe in the E53 Bentley Manual, they have a cross-reference section between the P-codes and the BMW codes.

Daniel

That's the thing; The P code I was getting, was completely off, faulting Bank 2 instead of Bank 1. My indy mechanic and I were examining the options as to whether it was simply faulting the relationship between the two and it was telling me bank 2 was too lean when really it was because bank 1 was too rich. :dunno: Who knows at this point? But when they hooked it up to their GT1, they got the BMW code and that was more accurate. So I think I'm going to save myself some headache next time.

EDIT: And ultimately, you were right about it being an O2 sensor. :thumbup:

Yikes. How cryptik our cars are. I had to re-read your post I wasn't getting it at first. Bottom line is that you found it to be a post cat bank 1 O2 sensor, correct? Makes total sense on my wifes 04 X5 as I replaced both pre cat sensors just a year ago.

Just wondering, is this the correct part number? 11-78-1-433-940-M14

Thanks for this post.

Leo

Thanks for posting the solution.

Wish everyone here that posted a problem would post the solution once the problem is solved.

So did this wind up working long term? Just new 02 sensors?

I’ve been chasing this code for over a year. I also got bitten by the odb telling me this was a lean bank 2 (P1092) and BMW code telling me this was rich bank 1 (235). In the Bentley manual they show 235 mapping to both P1092 and P1190.

Over a year ago the first Indy shop I went to told me it was the MAF — “because I had a K&N airfilter and the oil ruined the MAF”. I was doubtful about it being a bad MAF based on my monitoring of the MAF signal vs rpm. My fuel trims were rather high LTF around 7-8 and total getting into the teens. The car was running perfectly. In retrospect there were a few times (over a few years) that it would be rough staring if the car had sat for a long period. As second start would clear it right up - so I didn’t worry much.

I needed to do my 100K tuneup so I did primary O2, plugs, air filter, inspected coils/boots, etc. I did not do the secondary 02 at the time since they seemed like a bear to get at without a lift and most said it had little to do with the fuel trims. Likewise I had planned to replace the fuel filter but working under the car in the cold with the chance of getting covered in gas just didn’t seem appealing.

Eventually I gave in to the advise of the “pros” and popped in a new MAF — which seemed to clean the code for a month or so.

A few months later I was driving on the hiway and a got a fault for my idle control valve and the car went into failsafe mode – now the occasional rough starts made sense! When I pulled the idle control value it had a bunch of carbon build up and the valve failed to move when I did the shake test. I cleaned it and once again the code went away for a little while. Once the code reappeared, I decided that the cleaning wasn’t sufficient so a put a new one in – but I still had the code.

After extensive reading on a the bmw forums and talking to folks at BAVauto, I dug in and replaced my ccv — what a PIA. My dipstick tube was completely clogged with solidified mayo. I used a wire on a drill to clean it out — and then really struggled to get it back in since the old o-ring was a bit swollen. I still had my light and now I seemed I had an oil leak as well.

I discovered that while installing the ccv, I broke the locking ring on the pipe going from the valve cover to the ccv — since I could not see it too well I thought the “click” I heard was it locking in place — not the ring snapping. That explains the sudden oil leak.

Since winter was setting in and my emissions sticker needed to be renewed, I decided to take the car to a second Indy shop in the area to replace my vc->ccv hose. I was also hoping he would put in my secondary 02 and change the fuel filter for me – since I still hadn’t gotten around to it.

He then called back to stay I needed 4k+ of work on the X5. He had also found some suspension issues and recommended a trans flush (for $750). He said I not only needed a hose from my VC to CCV, I needed to replace the entire CCV (I told him it was just done), my oil stand gasket, VC gasket, dipstick tube, oil pan gasket, and power steering lines. All items that typically need attention on a X of this age - so not a bad list. He also stated that he would not install any user furnished parts – so I still would not have new o2 or the fuel filter unless I wanted to buy them through him. I had him go ahead with the suspension work and had him hold off on the trans/engine work. In addition to my previous codes now I was also getting P0174 / P0171 (fuel trim out of range) and P0241 misfire #4 cylinder.

It got unusually warm for a couple of days so I decided to replace the VC to CCV hose. This time around however I started by buying a smoke machine off eBay - especially since the indy told be I had found a bunch of vac leaks. Once I got it hooked up and figured out, I was to verify the leak at the VC to CCV hose but did not see any others. Once I replaced the hose, I used the smoke machine to verify the fix prior to putting all the intake pluming back in. Much to my surprise, I still had a leak in the VC to CCV house - when I gave it a good tug, the hose pulled off the CCV.

With the help of a little lithium grease around the connector and a lot of wrestling around, the hose snap into place a locked this time! Gave it a few good tugs and it stayed put. Smoked it again and not a puff of smoke came out of the engine.

I figured I was home free – the lean codes and misfire cleared – but the 1092 / 235 code persisted and would trigger on every cold start trip. I thought it might clear after the engine gets nice and hot but no dice even after 130 miles of driving.

Then I found this thread - can't believe I missed it before. The next morning I went to my corner gas station and asked the mechanic who owns it if he would pop in my 02 and fuel filter. It’s only been a couple of days and 100 miles or so but once my scanner showed I was ready for an emissions test, I ran over and passed the test just fine.

In the end I took care of a bunch of maintenance issues and my fuel trims are in the .8->1.6 range. I still have to upgrade my dipstick tube, and may develop VC gasket leaks and oil stand leaks eventually, but for now she’s running like new. I’ll deal with the PS lines and dipstick tube this spring. Hope this helps someone!

P1092, P1093, EB Trimming bank 1 and bank 2... MY SOLUTION
 

Recently purchased a 2004 E53 with 145k miles with Service Engine light on. Codes were P1092 and P1093 with generic scanner and "EB Trimming, Oxygen sensor before catalytic converter bank 1 and bank 2" with an autophix es910 scanner.

So after months of reading through the forums I tried the following:

1. Vacuum leaks (None found)
2. DISA Valve (Changed gasket)
3. Replaced all 4 oxygen sensors (Definitely not necessary in my case)
4. Cleaned air filter - (Looked fairly new)
5. Ran two trials of injector cleaner in gas.

I cleared the codes each time I did something new and the codes would return within 10-15min every time or 5-10 miles.

In the end it was the simplest of solutions and I'm sharing so that everyone does not make the same mistake.

ALL I HAD TO DO WAS TO CLEAR ADAPTATIONS!!!

Seriously. I couldn't believe it. I realize after the fact that whenever I cleared the codes, all adaptations were not cleared when using the Generic Scanner or when using the Autophix scanner. I had to go under "Special Functions" when using my Autophix scanner and specifically select clear adaptations.

I've put 1,500miles on the car and there has been no Service Engine Light. Also, my MPG went from 14/22 to 16/25.

Hope this helps someone. I just joined about 10min ago and paid the 25 cents just to be able to share this.

P1092 or BMW 235 Fault
 

2006 E53 X5 3.0 Automatic
I know this is an old post, maybe someone will see this, but there were two fixes listed here one was a post cat oxygen sensor and the other was by clearing the adaptations.
Can the person who found the post cat oxygen sensor to be defective tell me if they ever measured the heater resistance of the o2 sensor or were they getting voltages on that o2 sensor that were not correct before they replaced it?
For the person who resolved it by clearing adaptations can you please tell me which adaptations you cleared as there many. I am using INPA to see my data.
As I am currently experiencing the 235 fault and replaced just about everything except the o2 sensors which seem to be reading ok and my fuel trims are also reading under 10%. I have also smoked the engine and have no vacuum leaks.
Freeze frame data also looks normal, and when I look at the frequency of the fault in INPA it counts up really quick up to max 255 within a week or two.
I am going to try and replace the 2 post cat oxygen sensors this weekend and see if that’s it or not.

Thanks guys.

Reset the fuel trim adaptations anytime you replace an o2. I just replaced all 4 of mine though probably only needed to replace one of them. Check engine light was intermittent until clearing the adaptations.

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!!!


6 months ago I replaced both of my upstream O2 sensors (Bank 2 was giving me a 236 error) and cleared the errors using INPA. Every time I cleared the errors it (236) would come right back after 20-30 miles. Tried new plugs, new ignition coils, several fuel injector cleaning fluids to no avail. I kept looking for possible solutions when I saw this thread. I cleared all the Adaptations in INPA and voila...NO MORE ERROR CODES!

I was another victim of the P1092 code retrieved using OBD Fusion. After finding this thread I was able to sort it out and get the problem corrected by replacing the Bank 1, Sensor 2, sensor. Using INPA I had the following codes in the Error Memory Report (translated from German):
235 Lambda trim control pre-cat bank 1
215 Post-cat probe, activity check BK1, (probe 3)
222 Lambda control not active after a specified time

I’m not sure if this is useful information but the resistance of the heater element in the new sensor measured 2.8 Ohms at room temperature and the old sensor seemed to be quite erratic.