Generx, Great job but... that sure seems like a lot of work. I mean to each his own, and it seems like you had no problem doing it, but like killcrap said; a lot of unneeded proceedures. That assembly is heavy and supporting it by a jac is fine, but there is that possiblity you might bump into it, it will fall off and cause damage. The way explained in the DIY section and the way a lot of others did it is safer and to be honest, probably faster. And to the member worried about 330 ft/lbs of torque. I don't remember it being that high, but its been a while. In any case, lets just say 330 ft/lbs is Balls to the wall tight. If you have a torque wrench that does 250, 3 big hits with a dead blow hammer will most def suffice. I mean we all know that hub needs to be on there tight, so I personally don't think an accurate count of 330 ft/lbs is critical. Now something like sleeves and bolts, those are critical and I follow them to a "t". Just my imho, but in any case good job and thanks for the contribution!

Hmmm, ok so didn't realize this thread was bumped from 2009. haha got to read a little better. But anyways, if anyone is looking for a hub puller I have an extra one available. 3 swinging arms and center crank bolt. Hub removal is a breeze. Anyone interested, let me know.

Used killcraps method this weekend to replace both half shafts. Only issue was on the right side (the longer axle). The ride height sensor (mounted on the control arm) and strut link needed to me removed (strut link was in the way). 2005 e53 3.0i. Used cardone axles for $65 a side.

Let us know how those new axles work out over time. $65/side is a nice price, but I wonder about the quality that comes with that price.

Ranger I hear you and understand your concern and I will follow up. I've used cardone halfshafts for about the same price in my Audi A6 with good results for years and 10s of thousands of miles. Russianblue and civdiv99 have reported similar results although some have also reported vibration issues. My feeling is for the price and without requiring a core return, I can keep the OEMs and rebuild them while still driving the car if any issues arise. In that event, I would still have good OEMs halfshafts installed for the price of a single OEM halfshaft. I can get them in and out fast now with the only issue being the purchase of a flat 18mm wrench to grab the back of the stabilizer bar link so the bolt doesn't turn with the nut. I had to use needle nose vice grips and buggared up the grease boots so I'm going to have to replace that soon. ****Update, X5 rear ended and totaled 2/14/24. Half shaft worked great for 8 years and tens of thousands of miles. Just got back from a 12 hour trip to Florida in which the car performed flawlessly with 165K miles on it. I'm going to miss that vehicle.

CV BOOT
 

My previous E53 had a thorn boot. I replaced the whole shaft instead.
I bought an aftermarket one at advanced auto parts for $65.
My buddy still drives it today. It has been 130.000 miles since I replaced it. All boots and shaft still intact.

Guys,

Read the thread on this site titled "CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES", and follow the instructions from "dville" in Post 36, page 4.......

Copied below, FYI:

Nothing to remove really....
1) unbolt the control arm (the straight arm) at the end closer to the engine.
2) swing out the whole assembly by hand and afix with something firmly
3) remove outer boot clamps and cut off the outer boot.
4) grab the drive axle firmly with vice grips and pry the shaft out of the CV joint against the force of the retaining C-clip.
5) wipe off grease, install new clamp, boot, clamp and C-clip.
6) while applying pressure to push axle back into CV joint, use a good sized screwdriver and poke at the C-clip until it snaps in.
7) Apply the grease from the packet and then tighten clamps.
8) put on control arm (tie rod) and only tighten it once vehicle weight is on the front wheels.

My local independant mechanic followed these instructions (he didn't have to touch the brakes or sensors, the 12 point 36mm bolt, the outside of the hub, strut bolts, or any ball joints). The whole procedure went perfectly, took about 1 hour for both sides of the car and cost only $80.00 plus parts!

He said that without those instructions, he would have done it the conventional and slower way.......probably would have added another 2+ hours labour to the procedure, and maybe extra parts.

If you only need to replace the outer CV boots, give your mechanic a copy of these instructions, and save $$$!

:iagree:

Tricks:
Make sure the C-clip is aligned with the crew driver PRIOR to pushing the shaft in. Use a long handle skinny flat blade.
Install the shaft, get the boots lined up, then insert the grease. (Otherwise you will not be able to see the c-Clip)
Clean every surface where the boot clamps free of grease before inserting the shaft.
Make sure the boots are all the way on and squared up before clamping otherwise they will twist off at speed.
Easy job, takes longer to clean up the grease mess than the actual project.