Lamp Control Module
 

The other day I noticed that the green light on my headlamp switch was blinking, instead of the steady green that it typically is, since my headlamps always stay in automatic mode. Last night as one of my friends was getting into my X, they said the front drivers side headlamp was out.

I was getting no notification that there was a burnt out bulb and the green light was not blinking anymore. Called the dealer this morning and they told me to bring it in.

Just got a call from them and they have to replace the "Lamp Control Module." Anybody heard of this part?

I am guessing it is part #5 (P/N 63126939069) listed on realoem.com.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/k/m/196.png

Oh no! The dealership replaced the module unit and that didn't fix my headlight either. I guess a whole new assembly would be next?

At least I got a 2009 528xi to roll around in this weekend....

Hi Jeff ... I was under the impression the LCM was the module near the glove compartment and usually cost like $400. I think this is what normally has the fault but not positive.

Funny I've had that blinking light for several months. My driver side headlight works fine just the adaptive portion doesn't work anymore. This was another reason I got the laptop GT1 - in case I need to recode another LCM. I bought a used one from from ebay for $85 shipped.

I'm still hoping I just knocked a wire loose inside the headlight from all my DIY work on the AEs, DRLs , bulbs, etc. One day I'll hunt the problem down but for now I'm too busy with too many projects! :rofl:

Anyways, double check with the dealer. Might be the headlight but then again .... Don't let them just start replacing parts at your cost!

Part #4 Light and Check Control Module.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...57&hg=61&fg=25

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/o/x/196.png

I wonder what the faults are... could you get them from the SA and post them up? It could be as simple as a burnt out bulb, ignitor, xenon module, etc. And sometimes a small amount of water/moisture gets into the contacts of part 5 in that depiction and corrodes the connector. Experience comes into play with some diagnotics...

Oh I checked with the dealer. I am still under new car warranty! FREE is a magical word!

I'll check it out and see what codes I can get!

Plus funny you mention the moisture as I just remembered I washed the X the other day and then drove it and that is when I noticed the blinking green light. Let it sit over night, went out, no more green blinking light. I figured something just got wet freaked the car out a little bit and it dried out......maybe it fried something....

Lucky SOB! :D

:iagree:

Seen this plenty of time. Chafed wiring harness inside the headlamp.

Do you think that may be the problem in my case too? I don't get any errors on the dash either but then again all my lights work - where in his case it stopped working completely.

If your problem is just with the adaptive headlights not turning... it could be something as simple as a stepper motor. I know there is a test plan in there for them that will move each light around up, down, left, right. If I remember right, you could also try moving them around through component activation in control module functions. (telling you how/what to check is SO much easier since you have a GT1 :D)

Thats exactly the info. I needed! Sometimes I'm a little hesitant to ask you stuff ... I don't want to abuse the privilege.;) :thumbup:

Thanks again ... thread hi-jack over! :D

Oh please, I like the abuse :rofl:

Wow this is a great post (not referring directly to weasel's sado-masochistic side...but whatever turns him on is between him and the midget). I didn't know that the green light would flash when there was a fault in the system. Nothing in the manual about it...how the hell does BMW expect us to know? Very cool info.

BTW (hijack alert) weasel... I always wondered, what is this all about? (Paragraph in lower right corner of page)

And on the very next page (under Malfunctions)... oops. Score 1 BMW Meister 0.

If you're talking about the part adjusting the sensitivity of the sensor, then - yes, the dealer can adjust it. Adjust the HLs to come on sooner (in lighter conditions) or later (darker conditions).

Didn't know that. It's not in the car/key memory stuff is it? Do you know what the range of adjustment is?

Not sure where its at. I'd have to dig some for location and range.

The amount of work that I've requested from you is piling up isn't it? You really should consider getting an assistant, or two.

FYI: LKM codes are stored in the Dash Memory. It took my dealer 4 days to work that out when my LKM needed changed!!

Thanks for the tip. Curious but does that necessarily mean that a message (or idiot light?) has to actually appear on the dash for it to be stored in the Dash memory?

We both didn't get any dash messages. So does that mean it automatically rules out the LKM?

No. I got lots of problems but, as they are not OBD related, no light.

But as to the sensitivity of the auto headlights, it is set through car and key memory with the old version V44 on the GT1 or any version SSS.

Day 4 without the X5. Oddly enough I really miss it and the 2009 528xi leaves something to be desired.

Heard from my SA today, and he said, "Your car is kicking our ass."

I knew the X5's were tough cars, but I figured it would just be a quick bulb switch. The shop foreman is on the job and he said they have almost replaced everything. The light will start working and then it stops working again, so in the end I will probably have a whole new headlight assembly on the driver side.

My closing comments were, "Um, just to triple check, I am covered under warranty right?" My SA paused for a little while, and I simply said, "Crap." And finally he said, "I was messing with you, you are covered." A sigh of relief was lifted off my shoulders!

You made ME almost crap! :D :rofl: I'm pretty sure my problem is the stepper motor but we'll see.

I am curious to see what it is. When the lights were turned on it would actually go through the initializing sequence (Up, Down, Left, Right, etc). And the headlights would move when I moved the steering wheel. Its just that the actual light would not power on, but both AE's and DL on it would turn on.

Because doesn't the stepper motor just put it through its sequence? I doubt it would have anything to do with my Dinan software would it? Who knows?

Maybe the initializing sequence is: Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, A, B. :rofl::bustingup

See my problem is the opposite of yours but only with the driver side HL. Turns on but won't move up, down, left or right. :rofl:

I get the car back tomorrow morning! YAY!

Quick overview of what they did was replace both Headlamp assembly's and also reprogram both control modules. Not sure of what the specific modules that were reprogrammed are.

That's great you got it resolved. Thanks for the update. :thumbup:

Keep us updated.:thumbup:

Got the car back today.

Here's the list of parts replaced:
1x 61-35-6-961-140 @ $412.92 (Light and Check Control)
2x 51-41-1-973-500 @ $000.33 (Clips)
1x 63-11-7-166-817 @ $747.72 (Bi-Xenon Headlight)
1x 63-12-6-939-069 @ $109.93 (Control Unit for Head)
1x 51-11-7-116-667 @ $16.63 (Mount, Lateral, Bumper)
1x 51-11-7-116-668 @ $16.63 (Mount, Lateral, Bumper)
1x 63-11-7-166-818 @ $747.72 (Bi-Xenon Headlight)

Total Parts Cost (According to realoem.com): $2052.21.

Labor (estimate by me): ~16 hours @ 145.00/hour: $2320

Total Cost: $4372.21

Total Cost to me: $0000.00

Here are the Tech Notes:

37345 Light Module. P1 verified drives headlight is INOP P2 removed and installed new low beam xenon bulb and found it still does not work. P3 SIB 63 04 06 Addresses similar concern. P4 checked faults and found fualt stored for communication with stepper motor controller 2 disturbed. Code 02 P5 worked test module and found no communication with SMC controllers. P6 worked test module for AHL supply and GT1 shows no communication with right SMC and to replace SMC on right headlight. But issue with left headlight INOP. P7 installed new headlight ignitor and found it still does not work. P8 removed drivers headlight and installed new xenon control unit, found xenon light still does not work. Service bulletin shows wiring in headlight is bad so I replaced the left headlight but found it still does not work. P9 removed and inspected light module and cannot see any contact issues. Installed but not coded new LCM and found light now works. P10 Reinstalled old headlight and old components. Found light still works. P11 Coded light module and test drove found lights work and gree light on headlight switch no longer flashing.

The left xenon light is INOP again. R&I front bumper to remove headlight assembly. Both side clips for the front bumper broke so I replaced them. When I removed drivers side head light it broke at rear left mount and the cover for the bulbs broke when I removed them. Replaced all control modules in the drivers head light assembly including the bulb. Head light still INOP. Checked faults and found communication faults in the active head light system but when I did the test module it said there wasn't a problem. R&I lamp control module and checked wires from module to lamp. Wires were fine. Checked powers to drivers head light. All the powers were present except on PIN 5 which is power to xenon control module. Hooked up brake out box to LCM and check power out from X10117 PIN 27. No power out. Disconnected right front head light then reset LCM. Drivers side xenon started working after about 30 seconds. R&I right head light assembly and check xenon control module and active head light control module. Found water in active head light control module and in the connector. Replaced right head light assembly and active control module. Light work fine at this time. Replaced left head light assembly because it was broken.

Nice job.:thumbup:

Mike, are you able to get SIB 63 04 06 ? I want to see if its related to the stepper motor as that seems to be the problem with mine.

I guess that depends. Still waiting on #9 and that headlight switch removal write-up boss....

You want me to post it?

If you could post it. I'd like to read it too!

Here you go. SIB 630406

Huh? I already did that write-up. Xfoomph and I have been waiting for you. :rofl:

http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...ht-switch.html

What is #9?! Refresh my memory please. :D

BTW .. can I find SIBs in TIS/DIS? I would think I would have that capability somewhere in there. I don't have enough time to explore everything.

Wow ... killcrap mentioned that exact thing "chafed wires". The solution is replacement?! Cant be re-wired?! Sheesh! :wow:

I hope I can just replace my stepper motor. :(

Man, my bad! What a great job. I completely missed the post and neither of you guys told me about it! #9 was the mystery trunk piece I pm'd you about. We need not bother people here with it. I was just messing with you.

Twins... what if you checked the wiring and it was damaged/chaffed. (meaning you would need a new headlight for loads of$$$) Didn't you and someone else figure out a way to pull apart the headlight? You may be able to repair the wiring and save yourself from buying a new light. (how good are you with a soldering iron?)

Worst case scenario, you still need a new headlight. :dunno:

What I'm saying is I don't know if the stepper motor is replaceable. Like is it integrated to the HL so well I can't disconnect it and just replace it. :dunno:

It suprises me that the dealer would just replace something if you can repair it. I guess they just want to make money since they're not eating it.

I can patch wiring and solder. Won't be nice looking but it'll do! :D

I'm not 100% certain of the reason behind it, but realize that the xenon system is a high voltage system (certainly not 12 volt) and that in allowing a wire repair to take place they are taking a big chance in terms of quality control and safety. Thus in such a case a total replacement is the wiser option.

I don't think the problem is with the high voltage wiring or the stepper motor itself... I think the ground wire to the stepper motor and whatever else gets damaged. In what case a soldered and heat shrinked repair would be fine. The reason for replacement would be that you can't officially open the headlights to access the inside for repairs.

Sounds plausible. So many possibilities I guess from their vantage point it makes sense.

ive nevered used solder on any bmw ive worked on.

1) its not bmw approved
2) it introduces high resistance
3) it just doesnt look right.

So does that mean all electrical work/installs/repairs are wires crimped to connectors with no soldering? If so can you recommend a good crimper or the one BMW specs?

Thanks for the info. and it's good to know. I'm not too worried about #1 & #3.

#2 I don't know enough to say it doens't matter as much. Will higher resistance eventually lead to damge to the electronics? For arguments sake, if it's just the wiring to the stepper motor - is that different from like say a higher voltage/power/amperage or whatever than like if its for the HID wiring?!

Probably means no crimpers .. just replacement.

No, I've definitely seen BMW write-ups including retrofits with crimping involved. Often in electronics one also solders the connector to the wire for add strength and dependable electrical connection.

As far as #2 goes, the higher resistance you introduce the greater the load and so you'll pull more current, generate more heat, etc. until the sucker finally fails or the battery craps out quicker.

Yeah, I guess its a safety issue for you guys too. Wouldn't want someone dying because of some headlights.

Hopefully its as simple as a loose ground. I'll try and replace the stepper motor if that's it but might have to get another euro HL. Dang!

I still want to show you my screenies from the testing I did. Basically it can't communicate with the stepper motor and shows no voltage either.

From the mouth of a trainer (unofficially) for the advanced bus systems course I took, for some reason BMW engineers think soldering will introduce a higher resistance. As an unnofficial class activity we all took turns soldering wires and trying to pull apart the connection, using the soldered wire as a ground in a live circuit vs a crimped connection in a voltage drop test. Results, GOOD CONNECTION. If you decide to crimp vs solder, just use the proper size non-insulated connectors and the correct crimpers for that small size non-insulated crimps and it will be as good as it can get. Just don't forget to slip on the heatshrink before crimping.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...43_1376066.gif

IMO there is a difference between twisting the wires together (so they have good contact) and then adding solder to keep them together, vs relying on solder for the electrical connection. The former is safe and creates a good connection, the latter is potentially a problem.

Nothing wrong with the crimp connection, if the heat shrink is done properly.

Adaptive portion doesn't work
 

Hey TwinsPoppa,

Did you get your adaptive Headlight to work? I am having the same problem after opening my Driver side light and now only my passenger headlight moves. I didn't perform any major work inside, just moved some of the wire around. I checked all the wires and they are all connected right. Any help will be appreciated.

Army,

My stepper motor in my driver side headlight was not working. Never figured out if its a bad wire or the motor itself. Since they were the Euros I wasn't about to open them up. I just lived without the adaptive.

I confirmed the stepper motor was not functioning because I connected it to a GT1 and followed the test plan. Again, could not verify why the motor was not working because of bad wiring or the motor itself.

If you can get access to a GT1 you may be able to narrow it down like I did.

Good luck! :thumbup:

Twins, Thanks for the reply. I took off both my headlights and have a spare with a broken cover. I am troubleshooting it right now and for starter, the ACL, part# 5 was full of water. So now I know why it wasn't working, but I wanted to make sure that if I replace it, that this was the only part unserviceable. I took the ACL from the good Headlight and installed in the bad headlight and still wouldn't work. I decided to replace the wire from my spare light and nothing, no movement. I know the signal is getting to the light because I connected the good headlight to the plug and it moved as it should. So that leave me with the Stepper motor as you mentioned, but I am confuse as to which is the stepper motor. Is that the same as the vertical control arm? or the motor attached to the back of the projector?

Army, I'm not sure exactly the location of the stepper motor. Try this thread. It might help you.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ht-motors.html

Thanks Twins,

I have been researching this topic and it seems that it is impossible to fix this option if the center steeper is bad. $1000.00 for a new headlight is not worth the adaptive function.

you could spend $1000 and get dual Euro clear headlights though, and maybe sell your one good headlight on ebay or the forums

OK maybe its more like 1600, this is one side:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Hella-Bi-Xeno...item2318095bbf

^^^

Good try, but no. That price is in EURO which means $1000 each:yikes: