P0171, P0174 resolved
 

Hi Everyone,

About 4 weeks ago, my service engine soon light came on (2003 X5 3.0i). I had the codes read and found P0171, P0174 indicating both banks were lean. Anyone who has had to do the search for these codes knows there are many reasons and lots of things to try. In my case it was a failed DISA valve which was causing a vacuum leak. As is always the case, this was the last thing I tried in a long list of replacement parts. In any case, I wanted to give some details which I would have loved to have found when I did my initial search. Here is what I did:

1) I purchased a CarChip to read the engine codes and reset the SES light. For those of you who haven't seen this device, its an OBDII code reader which plugs into the port and monitors on a 5 sec interval storing a variety of engine information. This was useful not only to reset the codes, but also to see the readings from the O2 sensors and the lean condition on the fuel trim.

2) I searched for vacuum leaks. Apparently the most common location for this problem is the elbow just after the MAF sensor. Mine checked out fine, and I didn't hear any vacuum whistle.

3) I cleaned and eventually replaced my MAF sensor. I didn't see much of a change after cleaning, but it was clear that the engine ran smoother when the MAF was disconnected. So I decided to bite the bullet and replace the MAF. I bought a new Siemens OEM replacement from RAeuropean (http://www.rmeuropean.com/). SES light remained.

4) I replaced the fuel filter. There are several good DIY on the net for this. My only trouble was removing the fuel lines, for my X5 (2003) they had a couple of slip on connectors with green clamps to keep the connectors from slipping off. There were no hose clamps. SES light remained, although between this and the MAF I think I picked up 1-2 MPG.

5) After a more exhaustive search for a vacuum leak, I heard a whistle from the DISA valve (also called the adjuster unit:11617544806). After a more extensive web search, I realized I should have checked this first. It is easy to remove, just 2 T40 torx bolts, then it pulls out from the manifold. When you pull it out, you should see a valve.
In my case, the valve was only connected to the box on one side, the lower pivot point had broken entirely. This allowed air to enter the manifold (after the MAF) - apparently this is not uncommon. In fact the original part number up to 04/2004 has been retired. After a short trip to the dealer (and ~$212) I was back in business with no SES light. I also watched the long term trim readjust with driving (using the CarChip). After a couple of hours of driving, the long term had decreased considerably.

In the end, I'm happy that I replaced the MAF, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, and I even did a set of plugs as I am now just over 105,000, so many of these lifetime elements are probably close to EOL. I also saw a jump in MPG.

I hope this might help someone else when confronted with these lean codes...If I were to do things over, I would first check for leaks (5 minute job), then pull the DISA (10 minute job), then clean/replace the MAF (15 minute job), and only as a last resort work on the fuel filter (2 hr job).

Oh how I wished I would have read this earlier. I replaced everything you spoke of, plus four new O2 sensors, only to discover it was a leaky DISA. Still, with all the new items (which needed to be replaced anyway), I should be good to go with the new valve when I put it on tomorrow. Thanks for at least confirming I am mostly sane.

Is there a DISA valve on the m62 V8 engine? I'm getting P0171 and P0174 codes and they come back after resetting them.

I can't say for sure, but would think so. It should be located between the Mass Air Flow Sensor (attached to the air filter) and the air intake on the engine. the only way the shop could find my problem was with a smoke test that injected smoke into the intake system and the look to see if/where it leaked. Good luck!

Nodef, do you have pictures of the DISA valve location? My SES light popped on and I read those same two codes. I was planning a fuel filter change and MAF cleaning, but this sounds like the culprit. How much is the part? Available through internet or bavauto or is it just a stealer item?
Thanks!

Part#7
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/p/u/199.png

Thanks Wayne. My 328iC sounds like a diesel- gonna check that car as well. Found this part for $168 cheapest I've found.

Yeah if you're getting that hollow rattle sound, it's probably broken. Check inside the manifold for any missing pieces. Most times, the vacuum leaks that result because of the DISA, isn't necessarily the DISA itself but more or less the seal around the DISA. On my '06 3.0, it's a round red rubber gasket. You can choose to replace just the gasket or reinforce it possibly using a gasket maker.

Great post. I just got these two codes on my 2001 4.4i last weekend. Nothing crazy, but I don't drive my X5 much at all as it's a secondary vehicle (maybe twice per month, sits in the garage all year). I haven't noticed any change whatsoever in performance or gas mileage, so I'm wondering if anyone noticed any changes in engine behaviour just prior to discovering the check engine lamp?
I'm thinking if it's going to be a shot in the dark going through all of these parts, I may as well just bring it to the dealer as it may be cheaper for them to replace only the part that's required than for me to spend all of this cash on trying different stuff. Even $168 USD is a lot if it's not going to guarantee my problem will be solved.

Its not hard to check if the DISA valve is broken. Just unscrew the 2 torx screws and unplug the connector at the top of the unit. Pull the unit out from the intake manifold and look at the flap. Here's what a broken DISA valve usually looks like.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i8...2/DSCN8437.jpgFlap Loose but still in place
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i8...2/DSCN8458.jpgPieces that broke off which hold the flap in place and rotates the flap open and closed.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i8...2/DSCN8464.jpgClose up of broken part.

Awesome, I'll check that stuff. I'm not driving my X5 today and I'm at work until late tonight I'm trying to imagine where this thing is. So it's near the intake manifold, after the air box, right?

Yeap, right above where the intake pipe connects to the throttle body. Its a black plastic unit that protrudes from the intake manifold. Use the schematic Wayne posted for some guidance and it'll be pretty apparent.

OK I popped mine off in 20 seconds but it looks great and the flap functions fine. I guess now I have to replace the fuel filter/regulator and see what happens.

Thanks Charlie. I should clarify that I have the V8 4.4i engine, and I don't see anything that resembles the realoem diagram. The closest thing I see to a DISA valve is here, between the MAF sensor and the intake manifold:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/...dc012bbf51.jpg
But started poking around this morning, looking for any hoses that have cracks. This wouldn't be the first time I've found a cracked hose causing MIL codes to set off my check engine light. Last time I found a tiny vacuum hose which was cracked running from some air pump used to pump extra O2 to the calalytic converters during cold/startup running temps to burn off unburnt fuel.
Anyway, started poking around, removed some shrouding and cabin air filter box near the firewall and such and found two hoses that were disintegrated beyond recognition. Something to do with crankcase ventilator and/or oil separator, they are way at the back near the firewall:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/...0751f98aca.jpg
and here is one of the cracked hoses:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/...44f76fa101.jpg

These things would just melt in my hand. So I picked up two hoses from BMW Toronto this morning on my way to work ($150ish CAD!!) and plan on installing them soon. Doubtful this will fix my problem, but I'm here now anyway. I'll keep poking around, but I don't have a smoke machine to test for an air leak. Checked the dipstick and oil cap also, they seal fine.

Here are my codes, for those interested:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/...9dcc040aaf.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2788/...445edc21f4.jpg

and after a clear I get 'EVAP not ready' and 'CAT not ready' (not pictured):
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/...f7642f5b17.jpg

Since it takes some running time for the O2 sensors and engine to get warmed-up, and a few start-stop cycles for the evap system to go through its test cycle, you will always get the "not ready" message after clearing the codes. This is to make sure people do not "cheat" on the emissions inspection by clearing the codes just before the emissions test.

Typically there is a P1000 code, but some scanners do not show the code, and give "not ready" messages for the specific emissions systems.

@boywondergq1 - I have both the P0171 and P0174 codes too. I found that one of my CCV hoses was cracked too. I replaced them ($38 each from the local BMW dealer here in Illinois). I cleared the codes but they returned. I have some rough idle going on now.

Well just to update everybody my CAT sensor eventually came to a 'READY' state but I'm still waiting on the 'EVAP NOT READY'. So I'm half way there.

I've gone through about a week's worth of everyday driving as well tried idling before and after my long trips for 5 mins or so, still no luck in getting this EVAP to go to a ready state. Not sure what else to try.

A Code P0171/p0174 lean fuel condition can be caused by:
* Low fuel pressure due to a weak pump or leaky fuel 1. pressure regulator
. (use a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure at idle)
* Dirty fuel injectors. (try cleaning the injectors)
* Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, vacuum hose connections or throttle body
. (Use a vacuum gauge to check for low intake vacuum)
* Leaky EGR valve. (Check operation of EGR valve)
* Leaky PCV Valve or hose. (Check valve
and hose connections)
* Dirty or defective Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). (Try cleaning the MAF sensor
wires or filament with aerosol electronics cleaner. Do NOT use anything else to clean the sensor, and do not touch the sensor wires)

My X5 didn't trigger any codes, but I did get a rough idle at times and the whistling sound. I brought my car in supposedly for a CCV install but the indy mech found that my CCV is fairly new and the updated version. He however found that my intake lower MAF Intake elbow was cracked and that the DISA was broken. I asked him to go ahead and replace which cost me about $230 in parts (DISA and MAF tube) plus $50 in labor since I didn't have the time to do it myself. Overall, I feel that the car idles much better.

So for those following my story, I should note that right after I replaced those two hoses and started it up the first time a puff of black smoke came out of the exhausts. I wonder what got in there after replacing the hoses to cause that, or if that incident messed up the O2 sensors.

My 'CAT not ready' finally went to 'ready'. So far so good. A few days later, 'EVAP not ready' finally came ready as well after about a tank of gas worth of driving for 2 weeks. Shortly thereafter, some new codes appeared:

P1158 and P1160: Fuel Trim Adaptation Additive Low (Bank 1) and (Bank 2) <-- (from what I've googled)

Does this mean the 2 oil separator hoses I replaced did something? I've read that the Fuel Trim Adaptation 'adusts itself' over time. Do I need more time? Do I clear these and wait again?

Hmm. Mass Air Flow sensor? Yeah, called BMW and they want $695 CAD for a new one. I haven't had much luck with cleaning these.

I think I'm ready to throw in the towel on this one.

I had the same codes P1158, P1160, P0171 and P0174 for about a year. Maybe a dirty MAF sensor. Have you tried cleaning it? Spray the cleaner where the connector goes too and shake it until it gets inside the sensor. Then as you will notice there is an arrow on the sensor itself. When you put the MAF sensor in, make sure that arrow when you turn it to lock it in the MAF slot it points towards the engine (not towards the Air Filter). 2 of my friends and including me had this same mistake. Cleaned it but not noticing that the MAF has to be placed correctly or if not it will trigger those codes. I did this and did a reset. Drove the X for about 550 miles now and no CEL.

Just saying make sure about that arrow points towards the engine when putting it back. I had it backwards for the first 3 times i cleaned it and it would trigger the CEL. Hope this helps.

Great, thanks I'll try that. Worst thing that can happen is I mess up my MAF and get another one on the internet for 1/3 the price of what BMW wants!!

You're Welcome! Ohh man i was so tempted to buying a new MAF too. I actually just did this a week ago and noticed that damn arrow pointing towards to the air filter. i was like what the heck is this arrow for!? I did what i told you and after that reset my car (Unplugging the negative connector on the battery since i didn't have a OBDII scanner for about 10 mins) and bang drove the car so far no CEL.

I've replaced the oil sep hoses too. I was still getting P0171 and P0174 codes that would not stay reset. I cleaned the MAF, but that did not change the outcome.

Then I ordered a new MAF online. The new MAF worked fine, giving a smooth idle. When I checked the active codes, the P0171 and P0174 were inactive. I cleared them to reset the CEL and it's been all clear for 4 days.

Try cleaning the MAF and if that doesn't work, you could try to swap MAF's with someone who has the same engine to troubleshoot, or just bite the bullet and order a new one.

the 4.4i engine does not have that part
6 cyl engine has it

Okay, I'll save some people some time. After chasing this down I'll give an abbreviated account of what was discovered since I'm typin on my iPhone right now :)

1. Took it to the dealer - they diagnosed it as a leaky manifold gasket; wouldn't tell me which one but I was quoted $1,800 CAD + tax to fix it. After picking myself up off of the floor I didn't ask questions, I got it out of there and took it to an independant BMW specialist shop.

2. They diagnosed it as, get this, a STUCK OPEN THERMOSTAT and a failed MAF SENSOR!!! They changed both, at a considerale cost as well mind you ($1,200 CAD + tax) but I was shocked that their diagnosis was correct and solved the problem.

I've learned my lesson about BMW mechanics, and am now in the market for a newer X3, X5 or GLK 350 WITH EXTENDED WARRANTY.

Seriously, I thought it was only the paranoid people who suggested extended warranties and to be honest I never subscribed to that camp but in the case of aged German vehicles it is imperitive.

Hope this helps some people; iv been chasing this down for 2 months and I'm so done.

I have this problem, iv changed the 2 vent pipes as they were soft ant ripped apart, it runs a lot smoother but still have the engine light on!

M

J

There are videos on YouTube on how to repair the DISA valve as well.

P1158/P1160
 

My(01 X5 4.4i) has the same codes, also with:P1158/P1160). Due to what I've been advised by some folks in the forum, I than finally decided to visit a shop for a smoke test done in the intake system. Well... amazingly it was a vacuum leak right under the front intake manifold gaskets, which lead me to a major mechanic job I've ever done in my entire life. See pictures below for details....

code:P1158/1160 P0171/P0174 fixed solution!!!
 

I've been searching the entire web for pictures about how to perform this heavies jobs on my: (2001 BMW X5 4.4i M62) but unfortunately no body seems taking their chance to do this type jobs. Amazingly! I came across of: E38 BMW 740i/iL M62 Intake Manifold Removal

which is a link showing you how to do the same job, but on a different BMW models. However I have to say thanx to the guy who has posted these pictures on the web because by following them I was able to succeed and also saving me:$ 3,265 dollars jobs in labor. Please don't get me wrong! the entire job cost me:$405 dollars, only because my car was due for tune-up service and this is a perfect time for me to do everything at once. But some parts are not pictured.
Because the procedure of the intake manifold removal, replacing all the gaskets: rear, front, under the intake took me about: 8hrs job.

See pictures below for details....

Replacing intake manifold gaskets
 

I've been searching the entire web for pictures about how to perform this heavies jobs on my: (2001 BMW X5 4.4i M62) but unfortunately no body seems taking their chance to do this type jobs. Amazingly! I came across of: E38 BMW 740i/iL M62 Intake Manifold Removal

which is a link showing you how to do the same job, but on a different BMW models. However I have to say thanx to the guy who has posted these pictures on the web because by following them I was able to succeed and also saving me:$ 3,265 dollars jobs in labor. Please don't get me wrong! the entire job cost me:$405 dollars, only because my car was due for tune-up service and this is a perfect time for me to do everything at once. But some parts are not pictured.
Because the procedure of the intake manifold removal, replacing all the gaskets: rear, front, under the intake took me about: 8hrs job.

See pictures below for details....

How to Remove the intake manifold
 

Pull out all eight of ignition coil connections. You will need to pull the metal clip upward and as you pull it upward, take out the connector from
the ignition coil. It is tricky, but not too bad. We need to unclip all the connectors so we can move these electronic boxes out of the way. There is
a box on each side of the engine. Pull out (most of the plug sensors) and the knock sensor(3) connector. Loosen (4) 10mm nuts and you got yourself a loose box! Be
careful pulling them out yet. You will need to take out the connectors that hook to the injectors. Take a look at the bottom of the box, you will see
4 injectors hooked up on each side. Uncliping is a pain in the (S) specially the two last injectors by the firewall inside, but with a little plier, you can open the thin metal clips and once you unclip the metal, injectors may pull out free easily from the electronic box wires.

I was by myself guys! and this was inside the parking lot of autozone 3 miles from my house. imagine trying to finish on time so, my car won't stay there overnight and taking pictures at the same time.

How to resolve a Learn condition with code: P1158/P1160/P0171/P0174
 

In order to remove the intake manifold, we will need to remove the plastic engine/cylinder cover, (unhook the injector's clips are the most part on this job, otherwise remove the throttle body and the top fuel rail together with the injectors are easy. You may used 2 markers with different colors just to identify certain plugs. Certain BMW's model are much different than other because I found the job more easy on my car than E38 model explained.

(REMEMBER THIS WAS ON A: 2001 BMW X5 4.4i M62)

I hope this helps for some of you... Because The $tealers will charge you $$$Thousandsss of dollars to get to this point, now you can do it for free. At this point, you can clean out the intake manifold, intake valves, the fuel injectors, replace the back plate of intake manifold just like I did! Good luck! And for those who need to replace the valley pan gasket, you will need to remove the water pump and take out the center "cap and seal" part... However I do not mess with it and mine looks ok, once I do not have any leaking antifreeze under the vehicle.

Be careful on the gas pedal when testing the car later, because as the engine notice there is no more vacuum leak, the compression now build-up inside the entire intake system pushing his way back normally through the muffler now, which resulting the car to take-off like a jumbo airplane.

I am going to remove my DISA from our 04 X5 3.0 and verify the part number. I see 11617544805 as the Part Number, but i want to physically verify this.

Also, would putting vacuum to the DISA, a good test of it's operational?

Disa valve
 

:dunno:Not so sure about your question whether if you willing to change your disa valve but this is the part that you're looking to work on picture below...
And No need to :driver: to the stealer to get the part. just go to: Bimmerspecialist.com and get the same genuine quality for less...And get yourself some drink :guinness: with the rest of the money after you done.


Description:
Adjusting Unit for Intake Manifold (DISA Valve)
Manufacturer: GENUINE BMW
List Price: $224.42
Part#: 11 61 7 544 805 Your Price: [email protected]

Thanks for the reply. If you look at the 1st Post on this topic, the part number is a little off, which is why i wanted to verify it before spending $200. Looks like you verified my part number for me. Also, thanks for the Vendor referral.

I ended up taking mine out and inspecting it. I saw nothing broken, flap seems to function fine and didn't fall out even when I took out the metal pivot pin. Not sure if the flap just moves around or there is some tension?

So I just cleaned up all the gunk on it and snapped some photos for your visual inspection. I put the DISA back in. There are "3" Torx screws and not 2. I believe it's a T40 and I thought the picture would show the number on there but it didn't. I cleared all the codes and did a road test to include a short freeway drive. Nothing so far. I will let my wife know to tell me if the Service Engine Light comes back. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Do 4.4is have that also? or is PCV same as that?

No:damn:as a 4.4i owner, we do not use this part, instead our part designed on different way and location: look @ the 1st graphic image below and refer to #2 which is valve cover also known as rear cover or intake manifold cover. This is another common location to have a vacuum leak, gasket front#11 and rear cover gasket#10 and gasket#14 which located under the intake manifold, and I bet you dont :tsk:wanna mess with that. Otherwise the Disa valve that you required information above is for the BMW X5 3.0i

Yeap, I know that... A PCV Valve its called as I know. Thanks

Ok, update. Car seems to run fine but Service Engine Light back on. No one answered me on the proper tension on the flap, is there tension or not? Did my part "look" fine in the pics? I'd hate to buy a $200+ plus part when it may not be the issue.

Anyone?

:bow:ok I can truly understand your frustation there because no one wants to spend on something that you're not certainly sure whether if this going to resolve your issue. Honestly for your disa valve, it appears to be great looking to reuse; but the (red gasket part maybe slightly out of range). And this is mostly the part that actually blocked the compression from coming out on the disa valve. And sometime the leak could be so small, anywhere but you can't even see it N'less perform a smoke test on the car.

I wouldn't require you to buy a new disa valve neither, as vacuum leak may have caused by different other locations. But once again: Disa valve failure, cracked in the elbow, intake manifold gasket, Oil separator hoses, mass airflow sensor are the most common cause for a vacuum leak on these cars. For this reason, I recommend you just like I did to perform a smoke test where you can see right-away whether if you have a vacuum leak or not, and where exactly the smoke is coming from.

Great idea. Who did a smoke test for you? Of did you do this yourself?

How is a Smoke Test done?

:(I don't know how much money they will do it for you around where you live, because some places required different amount than other as you know. But this test goes from: $75 to $100/change depend which mechanic shop you go to.
Amazingly! I found a mechanic place less than 1 mile from my house in NY who perform the test on my car and they only charged me: $60 dollars cash. I was so happy to find the result right-away for that little change, while most places wants: $100 for the same test.

Note:trustme: most garages dont know about this special test, because they dont do it as often. (It's a very simple test that we all could have done on our cars) But due to the cost of :doh: this machine:$700 to $2000, only mechanic shop may have that. The test is consisted as follow: Look for any vacuum tube line that goes to the intake manifold, disconnect the other part and hook-up the tube line that come from the machine smoke to it, because you're going to inject smoke into the intake manifold. witting a few second, you will see smoke is coming out right-away where the leak occur and you've found your problem:D

Note:If there's no smoke coming out, than you need to seat on your coutch:drinking: and start thinking about your next pay check to buy a New mass airflow sensor. But most likely 97% they will find a leak on your car. And tell them that you dont need any diagnostic, because they may try to foul you. Once you already acknowledge of your problem, just explain them the process of the test, how is it done, the codes that were pulled-up because some of them might not even knowledge of a smoke test on a vehicle. Just try to be a mechanic guy so they won't kill your pocket.

This is a great thread and it will help many E53 owners ...

Here are some pics of the 4.4 engine with the rear cover of the intake...

I have same codes going to check this.stuff.tommarow so get ready for ... where is... how do I.. are u sure ... questions lol

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk

I truly appreciated those intake rear pictures cover, even I've already been there and knowledge exactly what connected through there, but this pictures will help alot of other great folks here. Well by the way...as I can remark, the entire engine seems to be disassembly or on the ground in order to take those great pictures like that. Cause I know how tight it is back there.:thumbup:

Let's keep our
baby clean and runs smoothly!
(01 X5 4.4i)

My #2 seems good and not crack or broken (this is an $90 part) I will keep it . My oil separator seems ok also. I clean them with de-greaser several times and rinse them both water was coming out light brown as expected and now they are all clean. However I will change the #10 gasket and #11 gasket. I also had hoses that goes to #2 broken all ripped apart and off the connections. Therefore will change all hoses in the back (I believe this was my vacuum leak and therefore my check engine light on)

OK so I got codes p0293 and p0208 these are the only codes which I did not had before

You should start a new thread since the original thread is over 5 years old and you have different DTCs.

Ok fix P0203 and P0208 now I'm getting the "services engine" light but when I read the code there is no code - nothing!!!! Any ideas?