they do all that in the inspection II so i woule recommend doing it for added life of the X

I wish I could have that title but there was some guy from florida that I saw had posted 245,000 or something close. I will pass him in another month or so.

yeah, exactly. I just had mine flushed/filled (transfer case) so not sure how you could go 240k miles and not change it once, unless you are refering to the tranny fluid.

I'm not so sure that they do change those fluids out at Inspection II according to the list of things done at Inspection II on the home page FAQ (see below), they just check for leaks:

Items Covered on Inspection II Undercarriage

• Change engine oil and filter while engine is at normal operation temperature.
• Check transmission for leaks.
• Check rear axle for leaks.
• Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
• Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
• Check power steering system for leaks.
• Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
• Examine brake disc surfaces.
• Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
• Grease wheel center hubs.
• Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
• Check front control arm bushing for wear.
• Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
• Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
• Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
• Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.
• Check thickness of parking brake linings.
• Half-shafts; check for leaks at flexible boots.
• Inspect entire body according to terms of rust prevention limited warranty.

Engine Compartment

• Read out diagnostic system
• Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
• Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
• Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
• Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
• Check air conditioner for operation.
• Reset Service Indicator.
• Replace spark plugs.
• Replace intake air cleaner element.

Body/Electrical Equipment

• Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
• Perform batter load test.
• Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.

Quote:
Originally Posted by themoth http://www.xoutpost.com/images/buttons/viewpost.gif
they do all that in the inspection II so i woule recommend doing it for added life of the X

:iagree: ... I had mine done at "Insp ll" by my Indie, but I requested that they do the fluids. The dlr is not gonna change out fluids unless you ask and, they may be pricey.
Imo, "Insp II" at a dlr, may be right up there in the high gross margin "service" rung in terms of profit.

My diff crapped out because it had a leak. I just accelerated the problem by putting fresh fluid in there but it would have crapped out on me anyway, just not as soon.

Why go with non OE fluid? Here are my reasons:

Engine - Lubro-Moly, I like this product's reputation is Europe and the 5L container it comes in reasonably priced at BA.

Transmission - Using OE MTF-LT3, from BA, dealer wouldn't sell me any.

TC - Dealer parts dept. doesn't know what goes in here, using Lubro-Moly ATF 3 from ECS.

Diffs - Dealer says to use OEM (Castrol) SAF-XO, and that they will NOT sell me any. Using Lubro-Moly 75w90 (SAF-XO) from ECS.

Why go with another fluid, . . . because BMW NA policies encourage such creative procurments.

- M54 Lover

I changed both differentials and transmission fluid at 100k on my 01. Compared to the new oil, the old differential fluid was much darker than the new. New transmissions and differentials are not cheap. I spent about 3 hours and $200 doing it myself. It's worth the peace of mind. The dealer will make more money on you replacing your fried components than changing your oil.

Yes.

I changed at 68k.
Royal Purple 75w90 in the diffs.
I can't recall what I put in the xfer case.

The thing about diffs and xfer cases though is unless you heat them up or contaminate them with water, you could very well be ok. I changed mine because I bought the car used and had little history - and well, I don't trust anyone.

Lifetime fluids
 

Unless BMW has some magic diffs / trannies, I don't believe the lifetime fluid story. All metal gears / moving parts grind a bit, release metal shavings contaminating the oils / fluids.

How quickly it 'goes bad' I think is up to driving conditions, style and dumb luck. One of my favorite indy mechanics told me to change the fluids every 60-80k miles depending on how anal I was and my budget.