Bogging Issue 2001 4.4
 

Hello once again everyone.
Still having an issue with a severe bogging down. It is only when the car is cold, after a night of being parked.

Start engine, idle is a little rough, back down the drive, put into gear, the first 2-3 minutes that car won't accelerate properly. Bogs down severely. After that initial 3 minutes or so, then the car runs fine with no issues.

Any ideas or help on what it could be.

Do you have a CEL?

It sounds to me like it has something to do with the emissions system.

Newer cars are designed to run with a different set of parameters on start up. Once they warm up they switch to a different setting.

Are you using the right gas?

Sorry I'm not a mechanic, just trying to help.

Thanks for the input. What is the CEL. The codes from SES light are P0174 and P0176 lean bank 1 and bank 2. Those codes have shown up for the past 6 months. The bogging just started the last couple weeks but is getting worse and rougher at start up.

Been using the same gas we always do.

LOL, I'm so used to using acronyms anymore.

Sorry, CEL is the check engine light.

SES light has been on for quite some time. Too lean bank 1 and too lean bank 2 - initally thought MAF - changed out didn't work so sent that one back and kept the original one in

Thought maybe there was some other explanation.

Any help is apreciated.

02 sensors?

Not sure if the idle air control valve is used on the 01 M62TU, but 98 M62 has one. Its a bit smaller than a Redbull can and is connected to the throttle body. Look up how to clean it one www.e38.orgAnother suggestion is to mostly mileage based....replacing the front 02 sensors, and believe it or not - the catalytic converters. The M62/TU runs slight rich, and use over on bf.c w/ 540's and 740's have replaced the stock cats w/ Magnaflow units w/ great results. For a while I had a crappy morning idle to where I had to tap the gas a couple times after start-up to smooth the idle. After I replaced the cats, it idle smooth as butter and even has a slightly deeper exhaust note. I was able to get them done for $200 per side including installation.

Thanks for the input guys. We have not changed the O2 sensors yet. The idle air control valve we also have not looked at but he will. He thought it might be o2 sensors as well. At one trip back to the dealer, he said the vanos needed to be replaced. Would that make a difference as well? Just grasping for straws at this point.

The 0174 and 0176 codes are the only ones that have shown up.

Thanks for any help.

Cleaning the IACV is simple, just spray and shake it till it's dry and moves freely.

Changing the 02's is a bit tougher, but just remember that you only need to change the FRONT 02's, not all 4. The fronts (pre-cat) are what feeds the computer information about fuel and air ratios, the rears are just there to confirm that you actually have catalytic converters present and have no control over anything other than kicking a code if you've removed your cats.

Just wondering if there is anything else out there to help with the bogging issue. We will be tearing the car apart this weekend to see what's up. Any help is appreciated. We will be trying all your suggestions. Thanks

Try simply unplugging the MAF and see if it idles and drives better. Cleaning the MAF is kinda of a bandaid fix, I think in the end it'll still need to be replaced. Also try spraying something like carb/throttle body cleaner around ALL the vacuum lines. I don't have the pics on my computer, but there was a pre-molded hose that went from the brake booster to the intake in an "L" shape on my 7. It had a crack probably half the circumference of the hose, but I wasn't able to see it till I bent the "L" the other way, and there she was.

Keep us posted.

Thanks for the advice. We will continue to search next week. Just trying to get prepared with possible solutions.

Any help is appreciated.

Any updates? Unplugging the MAF takes two seconds to try out.

Thanks for continued followup. It has been crazy at work the past 2 weeks. I am hoping he will be working on my car this week. I will definitely keep you posted. Thanks

Well - I went on vacation last week so the X sat for 8 days. Came home and there was coolant all over the floor of garage. Still have bogging issue and SES light is still on. Yesterday received notice from Emissions for testing due this year. Have to get this thing fixed. ANY HELP?????? Trying to work on it within the next 5 days. Otherwise its back to the dealer. Thanks

where in chicago are you located? see PM

You've been given advice, I alone gave you about 5 ideas, and it sounds like you haven't done anything more than just start it up and keep point out the same issues. So what have you done, exactly? Slow down instead of freaking out and maybe we can actually help you.I think it goes w/o saying that you need to find your leak, and obviously DO NOT drive it at all. If it leaks from sitting, its sure as hell gonna leak while under pressure from driving. These motors aren't cheap, so don't make a stupid move by even attempting to take it anywhere till you know you've found the leak.If push comes to shove, you can call me later this afternoon or whenever and I can walk you through some things to try. In the meantime, quit driving the car and go find that leak.

Kill crap - Located southwest suburbs. I got your pm tried to reply. your box is full. Interested in talking with you. Clear your pm and I will send message.

Mr. James,

Thanks for the replies. We did change out MAF no success. Have checked for vacuum leaks to the best of our abilities. The boss man is who works on the car currently, other than a few trips to BMW for stuff that was too big to diy. It is a company car and he is resp. for what goes on with it. The valley pan leak was something the dealer said should be repaired. The other repair they said needed tobe done was the vanos. They say those are the 2 things that would clear the codes. At this point we are not sure that the issues will be solved with those repairs and the dealer costs are going to be very costly. They are only speculating those two items as of this point. I was out of town and then busy with construction projects we are working on which is why we have not been able to tear the car down yet. He has slated time for the beginning of next week to work on the car. Thanks again, I am very appreciative of your input.

Killcrap knows his stuff also, so if he local to you, that'll be great. If I remember correctly, he's a BMW tech, I'm just going off of trial and error over the years and from the experiences of other forum members. Even if you go PM w/ Killcrap, keep us posted.

I will - thanks !!!!!

Any news?

Hi James,
Still waiting to hear from kill crap. I left private message forhim to call me so I could set up something with him. Hopefull for next week.

pm u back right now.

To be honest ive been having some sort of tension feeling while accelerating myself, I guess i got used to it after 2 weeks now but idk it still feels like its not right. When I drive sometimes id get like a little tiny kick when i first take off, i fear its the transmissions gearing. even when i hit brakes sometimes the car would feel like it has a very hard down shift in gear and then it would like choke the car and slowly let it free again to drive.....

Does that sort of describe what your having or is my issue completely different? =P

I honestly never put any transmission fluid in the X5 but ive only had the car for 3/4 months now?

No - the issues I have is only at start up. The car will bog, feel as if it is getting too much fuel or something for only the first minute or two after it starts up. This typically only happens in the morning, and since I use the car frequently throughout the day it will not happen anymore that day. However, it does seem to be getting a little worse and the "bogging" lasts longer in the mornings. I have also experienced it if the car has sat during the day it will bog again. But only at the first minute or two after it is started and then the car runs fine. I do believe there are a few other issues, IE vacuum leak possibly that are causing the performance to be down a little at acceleration. Not have the issues you are saying. Thanks for the interest

What about the airpump? I don't have that on my 98 740iL, but the X5 does. I remember my E34 M5 having one, but I removed it and I honestly don't remember if it had any effect on initial cold starts. If the airpump isn't working, yet the cars ECU is expecting some extra air, maybe that's why it's bogging.

Hey Killcrap, is there a way to test the airpump...like directly wire it to the battery, does it make a noticeable sound, etc. It's been years, so I don't remember anything about mine in the M5.

I also have an '01 X5 4.4i and it does the same thing, I was getting concerned the engine was about to go. I started letting the engine run for a few more minutes before leaving in the morning, and that has helped with the hesitations on acceleration. I am also going to check into everyones suggestions, thanks.

I know i'm beating a dead horse, but maybe e38.org BMW 7-series information and links can help since it shares the same motor.

Good Morning to all,

Here is the results - thanks to Killcrap working on the car I just picked it up yesterday evening. It ran great on the way home. It was a pleasure dealing with him. He was very thorough and kept me informed.

The codes ended up being 2 things - the obvious valley pan coolant leak needed to be fixed. The drivers side cat converter was rusted and needed to be replaced. With that came the drivers side o2 sensor as it was "welded" to the cat.

Some other repairs I had killcrap do but those were unrelated to the bogging issue.

Again it was great to have someone I could rely on and who I felt would not take me to the cleaners. He is great. Anyone in Chicago who is in need of some work I would highly recommend.

SO FAR SO GOOD. I love my X and want to keep it around - just can't keep paying those dealer rates on labor and parts.

Thanks Killcrap and all those who have tried to help. If there is any other updates or changes I will post an update. But for now, this one is closed.

How much was it to change your catalytic converter?

parts were 1500 labor 200

But had to be done

I got my cats for $200 installed, each side including cats. They've been on for at least 3yrs w/o a single issue. DO NOT waste your money on brand new cats....you can replace them 5x over if you get the Magnaflows and they flow better than stock anyways.

My X5's sluggish performance and bucking was from vacuum leaks and mass air flow sensor not reading correctly. My valley pan was leaking coolant as well, and coolant was also leaking out the hose from upper radiator neck to expansion tank. Whew....glad I got my answers, thanks for all you guys input. Not cheap to fix all the above, but am in the process of getting them all done. :D

All better now?