Some mods and weekend detail session
 

Hi all. Here's my Jet Black 2004 4.4i that I've owned for about 2 years now. Inspiration for my mods came from the excellent photo JS_4.8 posted a year ago, so shoutout to him. I spent the day doing a little detailing the car after finally completing some of the exterior mods that I've been planning over the last two years. Hope you guys like it.

Mod list:
- 4.8is front bumper and rear skirt
- Fender Flares and lower support trim
- 20" Style #177 replicas with Bridgestone H/P Dueler Sport
- Park Distance Control retrofit
- BMW Trailer Hitch
- Exterior Chrome trim delete
- Titanium Gauge Rings
- Aux Input
- Sport Steering wheel

Mods to do:
- H&R lowering Springs and rear endlinks (or KW coilovers if I can find them only for front)

Before: 2004 4.4i with Premium/Cold Weather Pkg without PDC
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2447/...347f933150.jpg

After:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3603/...94824f475d.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2470/...d3d890f2f6.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3351/...e7d5428a05.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3615/...342812c96c.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3624/...e1402ec6d4.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3611/...711dfc7a40.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3560/...123da4473a.jpg

Clean as a whistle and super sharp pics!
Well done!
GL,mD

:thumbup: Well done mate, looking the goods now. Those new rims along with the 4.8 spoiler kit & flairs make a big difference.
Only thing left to do now is to buy a couple of those exhaust pipe surrounds and one for the hitch to tidy up the gaps on its tail.

Looks really really great now!

So for the front, you just simply got the front bumper cover? Any additional parts needed for the conversion besides the bumper cover?

Then for the rear, it was the lower spoiler, and the flares/support trim. Do you have the exact part numbers for the pieces you purchased?

Where did you purchase all the aero parts? Im thinking about ordering from Tischer, but shipping may cost a bit.

Im looking into doing the same conversion, was hoping for some insight.

LOVE the 177's

Nice mods. Looks like a completely different car :thumbup:. Nice work on the detail as well. I just did mine last week. Wash, Clay Bar, Polish, and Wax. Man the X is a big car. My neighbors think I am nuts, spent like 6 hours doing all that. Some people just don't get it. :dunno:

hey where did you get the body kit from and the wheels looks really nice

Very nice and excellent choice of 177 wheels. They are gorgeous!

How was the process of removing the chrome trim and replacing it with Shadowline?

Looking super clean, nice mods!

i don't remember off the top of my head all the part numbers to do this conversion, but Twinspoppa's guide will help.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...explained.html

The other parts can be found on REALOEM.com when looking for the bumper trim section for the 4.8is model. All of my parts were sourced on Ebay, Morristown BMW, and getBMWparts.com. The proper installation process (not glued) for the fender flares isn't easy...a dremel tool will be your best friend.

Trim removal isn't difficult as long as you have some panel pulling tools, but you do have to be careful not to bend any of the trim. It also helps if it's warm outside because the rubber gaskets that seat the trim in place is more maleable when working the trim back in. The most time consuming part is the front doors because you have to take the mirrors and interior door panels out.

I love the mods you did on your truck. What a difference!!:thumbup:

Any pointers/tricks on how to properly installed the Lower Support Trim? I just installed the flared wheel arches on my X, but until I can figure out how to properly install these buggers it's going to look like this guy's truck (minus the pooch). I'm all ears for any helpful suggestions etc::confused:

http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/...y-2006-042.jpg

Wow. Looks freaking fantastic.:thumbup:

I can help you .... How to install those rear bumper supports and flairs with out any special tool

I will take some pics tomorrow to show you how to.

Sure, no problem. When I first looked at this installation project, I said to myself, "What the heck did I get myself into?" But after a quick breather and some thinking, I figured it out. Some on this board have recommended gluing them on, but YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THAT. If you really want them on as BMW intended, then follow the steps below.

[DISCLAIMER: Please do this at your own risk/cost, as I am not responsible for any damage done to your vehicle or person. This is only meant as a visual guide to help DIYers install these parts.]

Here's what you need beforehand:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3329/...c2b6f05b99.jpg

Here are the tools you'll need to complete this mod: Dremel tool with cutting wheel and handheld extension, box cutter, pliers, and a flathead screw driver.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3615/...e1b6ca0890.jpg

Preparation:
Remove the bumper cover and place it on a soft towel or support it so that the painted portions do not get scratched.

Step 1: The installation kit came with a template that has a stenciled set of guide holes that you can use to drill the holes in the right spot. I found that this was not useful at all because the trim piece's tabs did not line up perfectly with the template. If I remember correctly, each trim piece has 7 1/2inch tabs and two long tabs. Since the longer tabs do not secure the trim anyway, I cut them off all the way at its base. Next, I lined up the trim with the bumper cover so that it appeared flush from the top edge of the bumper cover, as well as the curved wheel well side of the bumper. It might help to have another hand to hold it in place while someone takes a permanent marker to draw lines where the top and bottom edges of the tabs lie. This will give you an approximate location where to cut/drill. To make ti more accurate, place a vertical dot where the tabs lie and then use the curved edge of the trim to draw a line connecting the dots from the top of the bumper to the bottom. See picture.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2444/...14d9c6cc_o.jpg

Step 2: Now that you have the relative position of each of the tabs that need to be cut/drilled, you will notice that the interior of the bumper cover has a plastic shield bonded to the outer cover. From what I can tell, this provides some structural rigidity to the bumper cover, but it also happens to block you from seeing where you will be cutting slots for the trim's tabs. Since you've marked off the relative position of each of the tabs, you now need to cut small cutouts in the plastic shield to get access to the tab slots and to eventually secure those fastener clips.

Dremel tip: The high speed of the dremel cutting wheel will cause the plastic to melt, so don't hold it in the same place for a long time. Always use safety eyewear when cutting, otherwise you will get an occasional blob of molten plastic in the eye like I did.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2422/...28ef7d3380.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3299/...d5b4150bd2.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3382/...b07a3dd0a0.jpg

Use the box cutter to clean up any rough edges or to finalize cuts that the cutting wheel couldn't reach. The pliers are useful in prying out any pieces that resist. Screw driver can do the same.

Do not overcut these sections as this still needs to provide some structural rigidity to the cover, but make sure they are big enough so that you can maneuver your fingers to attach the fastener clips on the tabs protruding through the slots.

Step 3: Now that the cutouts have been made in the interior of the bumper cover, it's time for the main trim slots to be cut/drilled. Each of the slots should be slightly longer than the tabs, and approximately 1/8th-inch (or 3mm) wide. While it's okay to make them longer or slightly wider, it's good to have the tabs fit snug as it will help keep the trim on with less dependence on the fastener clips to hold it in place. Go slowly on each slot. You should testfit and drill, testfit and drill, repeat. This ensures that you get a good flush top edge and wheel wheel edge. Keep adjusting the holes as necessary until it comes out perfect. Remember that where you are cutting/drilling will be covered by the new trim, so it doesn't need to look pretty. Just keep an eye out not to let the Dremel slip on sections that will still be visible.

Once you've cut/drilled all the slots and testfit the trim, fasten them with the clips by pressing firmly until the plastic catches on them. Make sure all your trim adjustments are done before doing this because if you have to remove the fastener clips, it may not catch on the plastic tabs again. Here's what it should look like:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3400/...3176632bd5.jpg

Final product should look like this. This picture doesn't show a flush top edge, but I did make adjustments after this photo was taken.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2446/...d55d8e319a.jpg


Now that you've done one side, go to the fridge, get yourself a cold drink, and then start on the other side. After both sides are done and the cover is re-installed, you will see a flap on the bottom of the lower suppor trim with a pre-drilled hole in it. This is another securing point so that it stays on the bumper cover. Fold the flap over so it is touching the bumper cover, drill a small pilot hole, then put a stainless steel sheet metal screw to make it completely secure.

Looks pretty fresh, huh?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2470/...d3d890f2f6.jpg

Hope this helps. If you have any questions, reply here to keep the thread alive, or send me a PM. That's it folks!

Thanks. I'll take any pointers I can get.:confused:

The post that you saw from 2005 doesn't seem like the best way to do this properly. It would be very awkward trying to maneuver in the wheel well of the car (presumably while the car is jacked up with the rear wheels off). To do it the way BMW's instructions state, just remove the bumper cover. You will need to lower the exhaust pipes by removing two nuts from each side of the exhaust hangers. This will give you enough room to remove the T-55 bolt. Having a helping hand to slide the cover off will make it easier.

Here are the BMW install instructions. I mostly followed this.

http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/x...f?d=1154728710

Do I need to disconnect the PDC cable before removing the bumper Cover? If so, any comments how this is done (i.e. disc battery or not etc.)

Also, are there 4 tabs underneath where the bumper is mounted to the lower part of the vehicle, that need to be disconnect? I've seen this reference on other posts?

Yes, PDC should be disconnected. No need to disconnect battery. You can gain access to it by opening the tailgate, removing the right-hand (passenger side) side panel and reaching down toward the back wall underneath where the tail lights would be. Hopefully, you do not have a factory subwoofer, otherwise you will have to pull that out before reaching inside. There is a connector that you release. Once you slide the bumper cover off, one end of the PDC wire will be attached to a rubber grommet. Just pull that off and your bumper should come off easily. It's really easier than I describe it. I've done it so many times now that it just feels like 3 steps.

Oh, forgot to describe the tabs underneath...just go underneath the car and pull them loose. Nothing much to it. Remember when re-installing the bumper, to re-seat these tabs, otherwise you will get some wacky wind vibration from underneath the car (and could potentially snap off that part of the bumper cover).

One last question. I'm having a real hard time accessing the 8mm screws that need to be removed. There's not enough clearance with the tail pipes in the way.
I've read that I would also need to drop the exhaust to get access. Is this correct and if so, what do I need to remove to drop the exhaust.:dunno::dunno::dunno:

No subwoofers, BTW....

You mean the T-55 screws in the bumper, right? Yes, dropping the exhaust pipes a few inches gives you enough clearance. There are two nuts near each rubber exhaust hanger. Just remove them and it should lower easily. There are safety wires that prevent it from dropping to the ground, but make sure to have something propped underneath just so it doesn't hit your face while lowering.

To drop the muffler, do I need to remove both 10 & 11 (see diagram).

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/g/q/225.png

I only had to drop #10 on mine, but you should look underneath your car to see if #11 is also holding it up.

Is your X also a 4.4i? According to the realoem diagram both #10 & #11 hold up the exhaust. It be a lot less trouble to just drop #10.

Wow.

What wax do you use???!!!!!

Haha, the ironic thing was that I used Meguiar's Quick Wax. Since I've put on 20's, I can't use the local car wash anymore since the wheels will get damaged in the tracks, so after handwashing, I just decided to do a simple spray 'n' shine. I'm lazy, plus it's a big car to wax. I figure at the end of the summer, I'll do a full on exterior detail with a clay bar, polish, and wax using an orbital buffer.

NICE!!!
:thumbup: