Rebuilt the 4.8L engine have codes and problems!
 

Ok i just put together the 4.8 X5 engine and it starts up but runs like crap.

I took it to Advanced Autoparts to run codes and this is what i get:


P0201
P0202
P0203
P0204

Also Maf/vaf code. which i cleaned it and its not helping. But i noticed that it DOES NOT have the grill on it for air disbursement and i wonder if that can do it?

And P0014 i think its the ignition is Advanced. I guess i did not set it correctly it was a pain to set the ignition or i guess its called timing, on this thing.

Also I got a code that says P0013.

Also, i read something about VCT the 4 Solenoid Valves that apparently have the ability to retard or advance the timing/ignition, and one of my codes i think says i have advanced timing and also the internet says that the cam sensor code maybe caused by these VCT solenoid valves so i am suspecting that because all 4 of them have the exact same plugs and i have no clue which one goes where, if one of you have the 4.8 can you look on your engine and tell me if the short ones go on the buttom or the top, or is it different on each side like i heard that the short plug goes on top on pass side and then on the driver side the short goes in to the buttom on the driver side? Help with this would be great, and the thing is i tried swaping them different ways but i think the computer may need resetting of some sort to recognize it?

ALSO ONE LAST STUPID QUESTION where is cylinder one and where is cylinder 8 i still cant figure this out! lol :) i am totally new to the x5. I am learning a ton.

Can some one help me out and tell me what these codes are and what they mean and what i could try?

Thank you

Cyl 1 is the front of the passengers side, cyl 8 is the back of the drivers side.

When you put the vanos units back on the cams it is picky on the placement, and you have to go exactly according to procedure to get the timing right. Other than that, you probably need to get the valvetronic posotions learned via GT1 for it to know the valve lift.

Those P020Xcodes are for fuel injector circuits on bank 1, so you need to double check all wiring. The P0113 and P0114 codes show either cam advancement or air intake temp sensor from a google search, but would help to know the BMW fault description. May be time to find someone with a GT1.

Bending over and taking her to the dealer tomorrow, hopefully i can make it because the entire one half of the engine is not working.

Get a flat bed and tow her in. Why risk any damage.

You might want to stop off and get some KY. :bustingup

Tell them everything you have done in detail, and request one of the senior techs that will be best for the job (the SA will know who is good for it) and would probably be a good idea to talk to the tech about it as well. The more information he has going into it the better.

Yep, will do, i will even give him $20.00 for lunch and beg him to help me and will tell him that its been a nightmare and i have spent so much money bla bla bla and I desperately need help, please don't screw me over to hard, take it easy on me. :) and hurry up.

tow it there .. not take chances-- might cause sserious damage

You are talking about a BMW dealer. $20, try dropping a hundo his way and maybe you will get some extra luv. I don't want to bring you down, but I am guessing a bill of $1600 and 3-4 days of work. Diagnostic and fixing.

Listen to Weasel, he is a wealth of knowledge. :thumbup:

Why don't they want to help me for a decent price???!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! why is this world so cruel??????!!!!

Just got back from the dealer, spent 125.00 for them to tell me yes you have a problem with your car its huge there are so many codes we cant tell you anything, we have to run every test there is tear your engine apart we cant tell you if any of your sensors are bad, it could be anything, i asked is my MAF bad, they said we don't know, it could be caused by anything. Its $2,400 for use to find out whats wrong with your car. We have to do leak down test, we have to do compression test, take of your covers and see if timing is bad, and all that sort of stuff.

I thought that the GT1 is able to tell them if a sensor is bad AT LEAST, but i guess its not able, its the same thing as taking it to advanced auto parts and run the codes for free....

So i took her home and will do what the dealer would be doing start swaping parts taking things apart and checking stuff. For 2,400 i can replace a lot of stuff in this car.

Any ways, there it is i love BMWs

Also, who knows of a good best priced place to buy sensors? I am going to start with a new mass air flow sensor and go from there :)

www.autohausaz.com is where I go for parts.

I'd go searching on Bimmerforums.com - The Ultimate BMW Forum also as its the same block, and there are knowledgeable guys on there that have rebuilt and/or swapped in the M62 4.6/4.8 before. Also, maybe try calling my engine builder www.bavengine.com. I don't think they do the 4.8, but still, it can't hurt. Good luck bro!

www.autohausaz.com don't even list the 4.8 its like the guys never heard of this size motor, the 4.8 is really making it hard to get parts for this thing. nang

This might be more trouble that what it's worth for you, but maybe try comparing BMW specific part numbers between the 4.4, 4.6 and 4.8 on www.realoem.com. If the part numbers are the same, or the dealership can confirm that they're the same, then you can just order from a similar yeared 540/740 w/ the 4.4.

Its no trouble at all, i have looked at those things, and most parts are interchangeable, like can sensors work from even e46s, but some parts are not, like i am looking for a Mass air flow meter right now and its 4.8 specific apparently.

Sorry bro.

So I found a PDF for valve adjustment and timing the VANOS motor while searching for a pixel repair PDF in My Documents folder. Not sure it it'll help you, but it's worth a try. Send me your email since the PDF is too large to attach here.

Out of cusiousity, how'd you get in such a mess ............... and why !?!?!?!? I started reading this thread and WTF ?!!?!?!??! I guess there's a lot more to this story then I know.

Sometimes it's just the love for the car. I had my motor rebuilt, and since they were inside there, they did a few HP tweaks for me ;) The diff has been replaced, now I just need to swap in the 6spd and take it to the grave w/ me!

Whats your email address? or here is mine its [email protected]

Thank you so much for looking out :)

I got the car from the auction for like 14k it was hidrolocked, i replaced a piston and connecting rod so it started up and it runs now, so i am very proud of being able to get that far, but i think i did not do the timing correctly. or something like that.

Email sent, sorry for the delay bro!

How did it run before and why did you take it apart?

He bought one that was hydrolocked win damaged internals for cheap to rebuild it.

Shit man, I just read what you posted on the 16th (I was out of town). And before swapping any parts you really need to double check the timing as it is easy to put off when you put the vanos units on etc. You need to get cyl 1 at top dead, lock the crank in that position with the crank lock pin, (or a tight fitting drill bit) then make sure the cams are perfect. It only takes being one spline off to make it run like total crap.

And if the timing is off 1 spline, the sensors will be reading correctly, but the signals will be implausible. As for what the dealer told you, unfortunately that is about all they can do... they have no way of knowing the condition of the engine without running all the basic tests on physical engine condition, and they need to know the engine is perfectly timed first as well. And being that you put it together, I'd say you should be capable of cheking the timing as well as running all the basic tests yourself afterwards. I think I paid less that $200 for a good quality leakdown tester, and you could probably find it cheaper than that.

updates?

Weasel,

You said #1 is passenger front. Is that front from driver POV, or from grill looking in?

It's the same, there is only one front. Bumper end. Rear is firewall end.

Passengers front, not right front. (unless your passengers swap seats when you turn around ;))

lmao at this conversation

Guess there is not arguing that -- just making sure.

Hello, sorry its been so long since i was here.

I ended up replacing the entire engine.

What happened is i screwed up and made a mistake when i was putting this back together. After i put the engine back to gether it started up and ran and everthing was "fine" timing was good. But it was still not running good enough.

So, i had a guy take a head off on the side that i fixed up and i was told that two cilinder walls had some warping or what ever you want to call it. Took it to a machine shop the people there confirmed it with one of those measuring tools.

So, everything would have been fantastic if before putting it all together i had the machine shop check the block and redo the two pistons (which i was told was possible to do just two of them since the wight of the larger pistons somehow was so slight that it would not affect the balance.

So right now i have a whole motor sitting around that needs some block work.

7k later my car is ok. :)

OMG thats alot! how much was the new 2nd motor and installation? and where did u buy the new 2nd engine from and are you happy with the work?