WHAT THE H***??? Passenger door issues!!!!
 

I am so frustrated I could almost throw up!!!:rant:

After carefully and successfully removing my passenger door panel (WITH THE DOOR CLOSED) because "apparently" the actuator had failed. I finally got inside the door, unplugged the cable connected to the actuator and VIOLA I was able to open the door!!! YEAH!!! I then removed the old actuator, put the new one in, plugged everything back in, tested everything...window, mirror, door lock, lights...you name it. Everything worked BEAUTIFULLY!!! I put the door panel back on, tested everything again and again and again. Opened and closed the door multiple times. Locked and unlocked the door, rolled the window up and down...anyway, you get the picture. Everything worked BEAUTIFULLY!! I took a drive to pick up my husband and was so excited to share with him that I had fixed the door, because I HAD!!! And when he went to open the door from the outside, THE DAMN THING WON'T OPEN!!!!! I tried from the inside too, NO LUCK!!! WHAT THE H***!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The lock works by remote key and the inside console...everything works on the door, IT WON'T OPEN NOW!!!

SOMEBODY HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!

So the new lock/latch assembly is installed, but now it doesn't work again... Does the outer door handle feel normal, or maybe a bit loose? I've seen the outer door handle carrier fracture at the pivot point (kinda common, there are DIY threads on here for it) and not let the release reset all the way back in for the next actuation, thus not letting the door be opened. Try playing with and jiggling the outer handle trying to make sure it sits all the way flush then try the inner handle to open. If that works it may be time to go back in there for the outer handle carrier.

Yes, the outer door handle AND the inner door handles both feel like they are functioning properly...you can even hear them lifting/moving inside the door. I had just recently changed the handle carrier so I am CERTAIN that is working properly. And also installed a BRAND NEW Bowden Cable at the same time I installed the new actuator.

I kid you not, I tested this door over and over and over again, EVERYTHING worked perfectly...electronics AND manual functionality... The ONLY thing that I hadn't done, was DRIVE the car....

Do you think there is some automatic locking that occurs when the car is driven that might have done this. The lock still works via remote key AND the center console...the door just doesn't open...

Does it feel like the usual double lock as if the alarm were set from the inner handle? Does the door actually unlock, knob popping up and all?

EXACTLY! It appears it is in double-lock mode again. Yes, the door does actually unlock...knob pops up and down like normal.

Hmmm. I don't have personal experience with this exact situation... and can't see for myself what is and isn't hapenning, so can't be of much more help.

Anyone have any ideas/experiences to share?

Sounds like your gm crapped out

What is a "GM"? If everything else in the ENTIRE CAR works beautifully, including the locks, window, mirror, etc. on this particular door, why wouldn't it open...ALL OF A SUDDEN???? If I was to disconnect the battery, would that do anything?

The lock actuator is BRAND NEW...I literally just put it in today and it was working perfectly....

What is a "GM"? If everything else in the ENTIRE CAR works beautifully, including the locks, window, mirror, etc. on this particular door, why wouldn't it open...ALL OF A SUDDEN???? If I was to disconnect the battery, would that do anything?

The lock actuator is BRAND NEW...I literally just put it in today and it was working perfectly....

just trying to scare you, take the door panel back off, and re-check the bowden cable on the door handle carrier. make sure the nub is securely located on the lock actuator.

I will, but that doesn't explain why I can't open the door from the inside even when the door is UNLOCKED...it also works to unlock the door (manually) from the inside...just doesn't open it...

Where do you live? Is it extremely cold outside?

Sorry, my bad, CA......

Yes, I live in SUNNY AND WARM California...so no chance that it is stuck due to the cold...

I have a feeling that the actuator actually shifted when I drive the car...perhaps I didn't tighten the bolts enough. And door handle carrier cable wants to push DOWN when it is secured in place. That would make sense as to why the inside handle works to the point of unlocking the door and the outside handle appears to be working properly AND everything else (electrical) works beautifully throughout the car yet the door won't open...

Any thoughts???

This reply comes a bit late but check this post.
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-fix-pics.html

When you refitted the new door lock perhaps you clipped the bowden cable too tight.
There are two fixing points A and B below. Position A will give the cable a bit more slack to allow the mechanism to spring home fully. If it does not spring home fully - the lock cannot reset and then cannot be opened by either of the handles.
Attachment 34804

Thank you for your post Brian...

Honestly I figured it out. I'M A BIG FAT DORK! When I originally replaced the handle carrier (unbeknownst to me at the time), it was a PASSENGER REAR carrier... When the door wouldn't lock after replacing it, I didn't really think it had anything to do with the carrier and everyone I spoke with kept telling me (based on my symptoms) that it was the door actuator because everything else in the car worked beatifully. So, I spent the money to get a new actuator, pulled that damn door panel off (WITH THE DOOR CLOSED!) for the 2nd time, I disconnected the carrier from the actuator and lifted up on the latch and the door miraculously opened! Still, not thinking it was the carrier, I put in a whole new actuator and hooked everything up, tested everything (including the locks) in every which way you can imagine and everything worked beatifully EXCEPT when I closed the door and locked it, low and behold the DAMN THING WOULDN'T OPEN AGAIN! I ripped that panel off AGAIN...I should work for BMW...(I'm getting to become an expert in removing the panels ~ without damage)...and after a little more fiddling and further investigation, I noticed that the cable on the carrier seemed to be crimping or appeared to be too long...so, I went back online to look at the differences in the handle carriers and VIOLA I discovered that that 1) the FRONT PASSENGER carrier is about 1/2 inch shorter than the PASSENGER REAR and 2) I HAD ORDERED THE WRONG PART! Well, needless to say, I put the ORIGINAL actuator back in, returned it (got my money back, to the tune of about $185), purchased the RIGHT part (for about $55), put it in and, CAN YOU BELIEVE IT ~ EVERYTHING WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!

The moral to my story ~ make SURE you order the RIGHT part the first time around and DOUBLE CHECK when it arrives that you GOT the right part before you start ripping into your car! It will save you a LOT of time and money! Although, I am thankful that "I" was the one who screwed up and not the dealer ~ CHACHING!!!!

A happy ending and a whole pile of experience in the process!!!

Well done on getting the door card off without damaging it. My wife had to clamber over the centre console to get in and out of her seat for a couple of weeks because I wouldn't risk trying that.

Thanks, Brian ~ my husband didn't want to climb over anything, so I just choffered him around in the back seat until it was fixed... All together it was about 6 months! What a P.I.A.

Glad everything worked out eventually for you. When you have time, would you mind doing a DIY on how to remove the door panel when the door is stuck closed. I'm sure a lot of people would benefit. That's if its not too much trouble.

Right now, though, I can understand you not wanting to bother with anything! :rofl:

No trouble at all.....
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-fix-pics.html


EDIT... sorry TwinsPoppa, I should have read your request more carefully! I guess you remove the fixing screws and pry the door card away from the top sill area first....