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Transfer case removal pictures...
2001 X5 4.4i Sport.
I am going to try and fix it myself. Loud "cracking" noise from transfer case when you apply sudden torque to transmission. If you mash the accelerator from a start, you will definitely hear it, but if you drive like my wife, it rarely happens. Checked the front driveshaft splines, they are dry, but not stripped. I made a mark on the shaft and the transfer case, and verified that the shaft and transfer case do not slip. If you remove the lower drain plug on the case (all ATF fluid will drain out of course), you can see the chain and with a screwdriver, you can verify that it is loose. Loose chain inside the transfer case. I bought a replacement from cobratransmissions in Miami for $146, and it got here in 2 days. Got the X up on on 4 jack stands. Removed the front stiffener plate. While removing the front exhaust nuts, one of the studs broke....DAMN! I'll worry about that later. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9069.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9072.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9070.jpg Front exhaust section removed http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9071.jpg Did not remove the mufflers, http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9075.jpg Heat shields removed (easy with just a 10mm socket) http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9076.jpg DRY front driveshaft input splines. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9078.jpg OK, gotta go. Will update rest of pics later. |
Cool!! keep us up to date!
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Here is the link to the chain...get it? hah hah...
Cobra Transmission Parts 1-800-293-1848: BMW X5 Transfer Case Chain |
Rear driveshaft removed.
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9079.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9080.jpg Transmission has to be lowered slightly, so the shifter linkage has to come off. I marked it with a sharpie to put it back from whence it came :) http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9084.jpg Baby is awake...gotta go |
Let linkage hang
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9084.jpg BMW special tool 002-1022 :) (Transmission support adapter) http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9086.jpg Removed crossmember from rear of transfer case...weight is now on jack http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9088.jpg I thought needed the jack to lift the transfer case, so I supported the transmission with BMW special tool 112233-569 :) and moved the jack to the Xfer case http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9090.jpg |
Using a external torx socket (I bought a set of these years ago to remove the seats from my old 5 series) I tried separating the transfer case from the transmission.....
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9092.jpg Pain in the a$$ ratchet handle will not allow me to back off any of the bolts....WTF? http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9093.jpg So close, dang....this one will not even allow me to put the ratchet handle on: http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9094.jpg |
good stuff. id be scared as hell to work under the x and having it so close to my face. thumbs up
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While I am deciding how to get the case off, I decided to peek inside the drain hole and look at the chain....
Yep, there it is.... http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9096.jpg WOW, I can use my screwdriver and pretty much move the chain all the way down off the sprocket inside... 8) http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9097.jpg Way too loose... |
It's almost 12:30AM Saturday morning. My whole Friday night trying to take this thing off, and I don't even have a way to get the bolts off.
I started to try to fix the case while it remained on the truck, by taking the cover off. I got all the bolts off, but needed to remove the rear output flange. Deep socket 36mm (1 7/16") needed, and I don't have that. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9091.jpg Case has to come off now. I decide to search the net for special tools. I see a website selling external torx wrenches. Then I realize how similar they look to the Sears ratcheting wrenches that I already have. Worth a shot.... What do you know ... 10MM fits good enough to get them all off...yay! http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9099.jpg Removed the jack and just slid the case rearward and rested it on my legs while I was on the dolly. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9101.jpg The beast is out: http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9102.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9104.jpg Super clean....like brand new. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9106.jpg The bus looks jealous that I am working on another car :( http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9108.jpg |
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The BMW tech CD required 2 transmission jacks for this job. I don't have the luxury of a lift, so I have to make do with the 4 jackstands....I'm used to it now actually. |
This is going to be very cool DIY :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
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:wow:
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Nice work!
Keep the pictures coming. |
Excellent thread.
I looove those ratcheting wrenches. They have save me a lot of time and effort. They really came in handy when I had my old E30. |
I always end up using my spline drive ratcheting wrenches for those PITA bolts too, and would have suggested a 12 point wrench to you if you hadn't already figured it out. :thumbup:
Just be sure to clean and lubricate the front shaft splines to look as good as the input splines before you put it back together... and notice where the ac condensation drain happens to be when you put it back together. (I always wondered about that one...) |
:wow: that's a brave move dville, way too big of a job for me. GL on that project and hope all turms out well for your baby:thumbup:.
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or # 6 pics 1 & 3 or #9 pic 3 . |
# 6 pic one shows the one I'm talking about.. it is held out right above the spline shaft joint for the front shaft. Drips cold water on it as the ac is on, but worse yet, when you are stopped and the ac drains are still dripping the condensation out.
What happens to the hot front windshield when the defroster blows cold air on it, condensation collects on the other side of it. That would make me thing cold water dripping on the outside of the warm/hot splined shaft would make the inside prone to condensation if there isn't a good seal and lots of grease. I've seen them come it with a red rust dust all around the splined shaft from just this, which is why I plan on moving that drain over an inch or 2 on mine and removing the front shaft for a good greasing of the splines as a preventative measure. |
:beerchug::bow: i was struggling to find drains until now
another mystery solved :thumbup: |
WOW, I just opened the post from work an realized how SLOW the pics load.
They are being served from Apache webserver on my OLD home computer with DSL .... I will move them to photobucket later to save you guys some headache. |
I made some pretty good progress tonite:
Tight spaces when I am working at night with the garage door closed. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9159.jpg Borrowed a deep 36mm socket from a friend. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9193.jpg Got off the nut from the flange, then used a 3 jaw puller to get the flange off http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9160.jpg Case is still together very tight, so I got out my favorite Harbor Freight tool, the gear puller set: http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9192.jpg The rod threads fit perfectly into the threads in the case http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9161.jpg Finally, after being ever so gentle with it, I heard a slight pop sound.... http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9162.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9163.jpg Some kind of device to prevent the chain from hitting the case/prevent falling off? http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9164.jpg Transfer case details http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9165.jpg Planetary gears transmission input http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9166.jpg This is how loose the chain was http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9167.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9169.jpg Needle bearings in the cover over the back of the front output shaft http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9170.jpg Needle bearings in the cover for the trans/rear shaft http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9171.jpg Chain was making contact with the pad http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9172.jpg Took the planetary gears off http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9173.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9174.jpg The spacer and needle bearings in the top left corner of this next pic came out while I slid the bigger gear off the shaft. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9175.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9177.jpg Had to remove the pad to get the chain off the smaller gear http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9179.jpg Chain comparison: New (lighter colored)chain is so tight it doesn't bend as much as the old (darker)one http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9181.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9182.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9183.jpg Transmission input shaft taken out to put on new chain http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9185.jpg New chain is so tight, the big gear is hard to go back in (without removing the smaller one) http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9186.jpg Since I want to remove as little as possible, I 'help' it a little http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9187.jpg In and nice and tight http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9188.jpg Planetary back on. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9189.jpg Need some sealant like what was on there before, some grey stuff....this maybe? http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9190.jpg DAMMMMmmmmm, the sealant is dried up, so close yet so far....anyway, I feel good about getting into the case and getting the chain on. I was so anxious to get the case back together I started getting Krazy!!@#$ http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9191.jpg OK, just kidding....I will call it a night for now. P.S. I found out from RealOEM.com Online BMW Parts Catalog that I can buy the exhaust stud as a dealer part ($2.50 from PelicanParts.com), so I will use a socket and a C clamp to try and get the broken one out. (They also have all the shaft seals for the transfer case, just in case...) |
Great work...I am replacing the transfer case myself on an ML 430
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Dville how many miles do you have on your X5?
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what were the symptoms leading to your belief in changing the transfer belt
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From a standing start, take off gently, and you won't notice any problem. More weight in car, or uphill, it will happen easier. |
Nice. If you weren't taking pictures, I'm sure the job would have been a lot quicker.
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Dude you are my hero!
Excellent write up and pictures, I can't wait to see the finish! |
You don't "see" the finish. This isn't a bling "mod."
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I would have said "I can't wait to hear about the finish" but he provided such awesome pictures throughout the process, so I would expect we will see the finish, or who knows a You Tube video of a him stomping the gas, lol.
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I was just joking, BTW. |
I only hope I never have to print this thread for use..
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I have gotten so much help from x5worldcom.com and E38.org that I thought I owe it to give back to the community. I posted pictures like what I would want to see if I had a problem and wanted to know what was involved in the repair, to see if I wanted to tackle it or not.... Hope I helped someone.... |
Well, here is the last chapter....
I ordered one flex disc from Pelican Parts in CA, and the other from Above All Motorwerks in IL. 2nd day air so I could finish faster..... What do you know. The boxes came from the SAME warehouse!!! (the Pelican box has some extra tape on it) http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9227.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9228.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9229.jpg Same invoices http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9230.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9231.jpg Difference is customer support, I called above all, and get a recording saying they are at the racetrack, Pelican sends you an email every step of the way.... Above All was cheaper, adn I only used them cuz Pelican did not have the front flex disc in stock (whatever that means, since Above all sent me one from the same place). Anyway, I ordered a front and rear flex disc (guibo, or Universal Joint) and 3 exhaust manifold bolts. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9232.jpg The flex discs are the exact OE and you can see where they actually used a grinder to grind off the BMW logo so they can sell it as aftermarket. (FEBI brand) http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9234.jpg BMW part number sanded off http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9235.jpg Getting everything back together, and broke the new exhaust bolt again.....too excited I guess. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9238.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9240.jpg New flex disc in place http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9241.jpg Exhaust back in place http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9242.jpg Shields too, oxygen sensors and wiring carefully put back... http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9243.jpg Transfer case in place http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9244.jpg Front shaft lined up same as it was removed http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9245.jpg They instruct you not to run without the stiffener plate, since the bolts that hold it in place also hold down the stabilizer bar. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9246.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9247.jpg Sensor wiring put back http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9248.jpg Damn you.... http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9249.jpg I see the replacement bolts are not exactly a match to the BMW bolts, since the grip splines go all the way down the wide part of the shank, not like the factory one on the right. http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9250.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9251.jpg Ready to fill transfer case with ATF/ http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9252.jpg Filled it with less than one quarts worth of pumping before fluid was running out of the top hole. Tightened fill plug, and lowered SAV. Started her up for the first time in over 1 week (yeah, I work slow) http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9256.jpg Took it for a spin. (it's raining). I punched it from a standing start many times, and no noise while I give myself whiplash.... Problem seems to be solved....I'm HAPPY!!! :) |
Congratulations!! What a great write up - I wish you never to have another repair on your ride!!
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Just got back from a 110 mile trip with the family in the recently repaired X5 (less than 3 hours after lowering the truck, we were on the road.)
Everything works as expected, and I can drive off normally from traffic lights again, without having to feather the throttle like a girlie man... |
Excellent write-up dville! I'm sure that I will be referring back to this at some point in the near future. Sorry to hear about the exhaust bolts. Reminds me of when I had to replace a few turbine housing studs on the car. Fun times. :p
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Is there an OEM gasket for this? I dont feel like doing all this work just to find out the form-a-gasket leaked.
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9195.jpg |
No gasket was there from the start...
If you look at it untouched, you will see the sealant bead around the new transfer case. |
BMW really needs to get a gasket in there. Mine is leaking at thats the reason why.
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Yeah, because gaskets never leak.....
Geez - doesnt' matter if it's a sealant gasket or a paper gasket, or a metal head gasket, at some point, they all fail. Dville - awesome write up. Hope I don't have to tackle this, but if I do - this was an excellent thread. Great work. |
absolutely fantastic post 'dville'!!! I applaud your patients and diligence for documenting everything so clearly! When I did my transmission rebuild the picture taking became second priority and almost entirely forgotten. I had to struggle taking the xfer case off when i had the transmission on the ground! You're a man among scollars my friend =)
PS I burst out laughing when I saw the pic of the newly broken bolt captions "Damn you..." hahaha What an entertainingly fun thread to follow :) |
Update:
113K miles on the odometer now. Here is a pic of the transfer case... http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...IMG_9361-1.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...IMG_9362-1.jpg I posted the truck for sale on craigslist last week....shopping for a Honda Odyssey minivan 2005+, so I got it detailed for $80. The truck looks nicer than the day I bought it.... http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9355.jpg http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...1/IMG_9342.jpg |
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This may be a dumb question...but are the facelift X5s transfer cases the same? If ever I need to do this job myself, I'd love to save these instructions!
Dville - Excellent write-up by the way! All that hard work and you're selling it??? |
I think the newer transfer cases have an electronic clutch. If yours has any wires going to it then it's different.
I am trying to justify keeping it, but whatever. It is paid for, and we need a minivan, so we'll see. |
What are the symptoms to look at with a loose chain?
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Not really. The older one can have the chain slack problem like this thread, and the front output shaft splines can strip on some of them as well. The x-drive is not going to have the output shaft splines problems and is not going to have the chain slack problems... because all the abuse gets thrown to the clutch pack, which is what wears on them causing replacement costs.
Pretty much either one is just as likely to get worn to the point of repalcement over the years. But that is with anything with a transfer case. I've repalced them on fords, chevys, dodges, jeeps, etc. Unavoidable costs of having a 4 wheel drive vehicle. |
Deville,
You make the Bavarian auto-Gods proud with your work!! Excellent job and thank you! |
Nice work. Is that a VW van from 70s in your garage?
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Yes, that is a 1967 VW bus. Well guys, I still have the X5. I ended up buying a used minivan off craigslist for $5k with power doors, and dvd player, so the X5 can stay.... |
Awesome write up thank you for sharing the photos
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Dville is the sh#t....Thanks for the write up. I just took one of these apart with the chain looking as sloppy as yours. I did not pull the transfer case and just slid out the output shaft for the front diff by releasing the internal ring. Left the shaft from the front diff to the transfer case in place as well.
Thanks again, Chad |
Amazing post my friend! :)
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Dville,
What problems / symptoms were you having before you made this repair? |
Update.....
I you don't remove the tranfer case to do the repair like I did, make sure you don't flip the lip of the seal for the output shaft seal for the front diff. Werewolf, Not Dville, but I have one that was doing the same thing and under heavy accelleration and loads, there is a loud popping underneath the vehicle that can be felt through the driveline. Pop-pa, Pop, Pop, Pop. You'll thing something is getting ready to come apart hardcore. It's just a nasty sounding noise. If I let the trans kick down at under 30mph I could get it to do it as well, but definitely from a standing start and lunge forward(or attempt to), you'll hear it. |
more questions
fantastic write-up! almost inspired me to attempt this job, myself...almost.
my x5 (2001 4.4, 190k mi) has the same symptoms as described here. i have been talking with an indy tech about changing out the chain, instead of replacing the entire transfer case. he says he'll do it, but if he gets inside the case and there's more damage (bearings, gears, or damage to the case itself caused by the loose chain), he'll still have to replace the case...and charge me for the internal inspection and the Xfer case replacement. so i have decision to make, and am asking for advice. should i risk it, and let him open up the case in the hopes that we can get away with just changing the chain? is there frequently more internal damage when the chain wears out? or should i just bite this bullet, buy a case and have him install it? what are your opinions? upon successful repair, i plan to keep this vehicle at least a couple more years. |
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Tell him to just change the chain. And from the post above, you don't have to remove the transfer case either saving you some $$. Don't see why your case should be any worse than the others on here. |
Excellent thread, thx for sharing it.
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dville the write up and pics are wonderful but as I sit here the 1st of jan 2011 8:00 with a x5 half way torn down i notice that you and others left the write up and pics on how to remove both drive shafts and what wrench/tool needed. I have searched the site and it seems this is vital info need to complete the job....
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front driveshaft: take of metal plate under engine, remove bolts holding driveshaft to diff. slide forwards. Rear (from memory): center bearing has to be lowered, then remove hex bolts at rear diff. slide backwards |
Thanks dville , I have a 3.0 and noticed some slight differences between the two. I would like to thank you for your write up it saved me $2500 and thanks to racemalibu for actually taking the time to advise me to fix the transfer case first and for directing me to dville's post!! Your a stand up guy and I will try to send you business!
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Ive been meaning to post this up but forgot to ... I took your thread and compiled it into a PDF to help when working just print it as a document....so here it is. Thanks for you hard work...looks like when i punch it like you said im starting to hear that clink sound...hmmm how can i post it can i email it to you and you post to to your photobucket or something...let me knw....
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May have to post it to some other public site and link to it from here. |
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I also have been posting stuff to other non X5 forums since I have 99 740il (E38) too. Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum |
Dville I have an 1985 745il euro with 115,000miles, it's odd that most ppl didn't think they made a 745 then...
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I know this thread is old but what a awesome write up! I'm gonna be doing this soon and this was exactly what i was looking for...
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Go for it man! I did it and it felt good not to pay 4000 and only 139 for the chain.
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Why did u have to change the belt? Was it showing signs of wear? Any symptoms while driving
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I've just read this trhead from start to finish, big thumbs up for all the detail and pics !
I'm expecting my gearbox to fail sometime, when that happens I guess I may as well do the transfer chain at the same time. |
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:nanana:Helllll noooo! if I had to perform this heaviest job on my X, trust me! I would rather start selling it parts by parts...Hellll no I ain't gonna F"""K with that.
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Sweet the job isn't that hard at all!
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Exhaust manifold gasket needs replacement!
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Although! you made me smile by knowing that the job isn't hard at all. Also, I wanna ask you what do you think about the (Exhaust manifold gaskets on the side and the other one that connect the muffler pipe through the manifold near the front oxygen sensors. Are they all the same??? Otherwise I cannot locate or identify the ones that joint the muffler to the exhaust manifold.
Any help or pic would be appreciate! Thanks (01 X5 4.4i) |
Great write up. I'm sure this will come in handy someday.
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Exhaust manifold gasket needs replacement!
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Hey guys!
Here's what I'm looking for to replace under my car, because I just found out there's leak there from the exhaust gasket area. And when I look under the car, 1 bolt seems completely missing on each side of the muffler pipe just after the oxygen sensors. I'm referring exactly to #2 on the diagram. see picture below... |
Unfortunately this gasket seems to be difficult to find because I cannot locate it anywhere on any diagram. I don't know if I should use maybe #4 to just cut it in the middle and make one for each side, also wonder if it's gonna fit properly I'm not so sure. Number#2 attach to number#6 on each side, and there's a gasket in the middle which is difficult to be found. However this gasket picture above is for the X5 3.i and did not specify my car under the list which is a 4.4i M62.
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Scary job for me
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Wowwwww This job is too scary as helll it makes me feel like to run away from my X 4.4i
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I didn't have to replace my exhaust bolts. # 2 does not attach to #6 I have an 3.0 so the headers are on the same side. If you are looking for the the #2 gasket get it from the dealership. I had to replace those two gaskets. The exhaust setup is the difference between the 3.0 and 4.4 don't use the #4 to cut.
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I did the job under duress~ wife told me to fix it or we all walk.. Took me a day to get the courage to do this. I am not a mechanic but for the prices they were trying to charge me I would mess it up Befor I pay someone else to messit up. My local mech tried to scare me by telling me that I shouldn't go in the case cause it has alot of gears... That's Bull cock! took me less than 5 minutes to put the chain on(quickest part of the job) the transfer case is almost like a bike chain but thicker. If you have slack in the chain it will skip but not grind the teeth of the gears. It's (gears)way to thick to strip. So if any mechanic tells You its a hard job with all the gears hit me up cause I have pictures to prove them wrong!
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You can get those gaskets from the dealer parts counter, they're in stock at my dealer. But if a bolt on each side is broken off you will need to knock out the studs and use nuts & bolts to put it together, and knocking out the studs can be a major pain in the ass if you have rust from road salts. Also expect the remaining nut/stud to break when you go to take it off if it is rusted/degraded... so make sure you have all you would need to get the job done before you are stuck with no exhaust and need to get to the store.
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Thanks alot guys! this is a little bit more helpful now, your help is truly appreciated!
I'll keep you guys inform on that.... (01 X5 4.4i M62) |
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Put a shot of pb blaster on those rusty nuts(haha) they will come off, I just had to replace the two front gaskets... Oh the center exhaust is a bitch if your doing it by yourself so make sure you have a jack or stands when you put it back on.
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Thinking about it, I don't think the 4.4i uses those gaskets... just a flanged compression fitting. The exhaust leak would be caused by the broken bolt.
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Exhaust manifold gasket needs replacement!
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Thanks for your reply brother! I just finished working under there today, however I wasn't doing any major work but perhaps I was doing alot under the car. Because I wen't there to determine how easy or difficult the job will be to replace the exhaust gaskets one on each side. And it's like you already knew how hard it would be to remove those bolts upthere, and I wish to find some good stuff as you mentioned so they can just pull out easily because I tried to knock the rest part off but they do not wanna come out easily.
Otherwise, I figured out replacing those two gaskets would not be too hard! but unfortunately this must happened from the previous owner because I found 1 bolt missing on each side and as I look further, it doesnt seems to be there's any gasket on both side. This probably one of my biggest vacuum leak I've been having for more than a year, and the car has a poor acceleration on take-off and loud noise when pressing down accelerator. I was finally manage by removing the two plate covers under the engine. But themmmmm:doh: that them metal plate wasn't easy at all: with holding by 6 big bolts attach with their nuts on top, making the removal much like a heavy job to do. And you have to use 2 wrench in order to remove 1 bolt. Otherwise, I found alot of crap, dust, trash upthere plus alot of missing bolts, nuts, screws and more... |
Wait, you have a 3.0i? I thought you had a 4.4i because the diagrams you posted above are for the V8 engine.
#3 on this link: RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 3.0i CENTER SILENCER Can be bought here: Home Page > Search > 18107502346 - ECS Tuning Inc |
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Wait, so you do have a 4.4i? Then who's blue 3.0i is that in the pic a few posts up?
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Exhaust manifold gasket needs replacement!
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Thanks alot (weasel) for keeping-up with me, now you make me believe there's no such gaskets like that existed on my exhaust pipe because my blue X is a 4.4i with M62 engine. So now I just have to look for 4 new bolts and nuts because the only two that left there are welded with dust and would not come out easily.
This is just for reference photo only but my(01 X5 4.4) is 100% the same as described and exactly same color in/out. Except this one is a 3.0i. Otherwise if you see this one, you would not want to see mine because my X5 is shiny the same way even more... Thans alot bro.. |
But I'm still confused... the blue X in the pic there looks like it says 3.0i on the fender....... The easiest way to end my confusion would be a pic under-hood I guess. :dunno:
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Intake manifold removal/ gasket replacement for code:P0171/P0174/P1158/P1160
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Here's one of the major job I've just completed on my (BMW X5 4.4i)
I've been searching the entire web for pictures about how to perform this heavies jobs on my: (2001 BMW X5 4.4i M62) but unfortunately no body seems taking their chance to do this type jobs. Amazingly! I came across of: E38 BMW 740i/iL M62 Intake Manifold Removal which is a link showing you how to do the same job, but on a different BMW models. However I have to say thanx to the guy who has posted these pictures on the web because by following them I was able to succeed and also saving me:$ 3,265 dollars jobs in labor. Please don't get me wrong! the entire job cost me:$405 dollars, only because my car was due for tune-up service and this is a perfect time for me to do everything at once. But some parts are not pictured. Because the procedure of the intake manifold removal, replacing all the gaskets: rear, front, under the intake took me about: 8hrs job. See pictures below for details.... |
Intake manifold removal/ gasket replacement for code:P0171/P0174/P1158/P1160
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Pull out all eight of ignition coil connections. You will need to pull the metal clip upward and as you pull it upward, take out the connector from
the ignition coil. It is tricky, but not too bad. We need to unclip all the connectors so we can move these electronic boxes out of the way. There is a box on each side of the engine. Pull out (most of the plug sensors) and the knock sensor(3) connector. Loosen (4) 10mm nuts and you got yourself a loose box! Be careful pulling them out yet. You will need to take out the connectors that hook to the injectors. Take a look at the bottom of the box, you will see 4 injectors hooked up on each side. Uncliping is a pain in the (S) specially the two last injectors by the firewall inside, but with a little plier, you can open the thin metal clips and once you unclip the metal, injectors may pull out free easily from the electronic box wires. However in my case, I removed all of them completely and do not use them anymore, because I found it more easy for future removal. And once you screw the two electronic box on top, they holds tightly connected on top of the injectors, so there's no need to have an extra ignoring clamps there to keep injectors in place. I was by myself guys! and this was inside the parking lot of autozone 3 miles from my house. imagine trying to finish on time so, my car won't stay there overnight and taking pictures at the same time. Attached Images |
Intake manifold removal/ gasket replacement for code:P0171/P0174/P1158/P1160
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In order to remove the intake manifold, we will need to remove the plastic engine/cylinder cover, (unhook the injector's clips are the most part on this job, otherwise remove the throttle body and the top fuel rail together with the injectors are easy. You may used 2 markers with different colors just to identify certain plugs. Certain BMW's model are much different than other because I found the job more easy on my car than E38 model explained.
(REMEMBER THIS WAS ON A: 2001 BMW X5 4.4i M62) I hope this helps for some of you... Because The $tealers will charge you $$$Thousandsss of dollars to get to this point, now you can do it for free. At this point, you can clean out the intake manifold, the fuel injectors, replace the back plate of intake manifold easily just like I did! Good luck! And for those who need to replace the valley pan gasket, you will need to remove the water pump and take out the center "cap and seal" part... However I do not mess with it and mine looks ok, once I do not have any leaking antifreeze under the vehicle. Be careful on the gas pedal when testing the car later, because as the engine notice there is no more vacuum leak, the compression now build-up inside the entire intake system pushing his way back normally through the muffler now, which resulting the car to take-off like a jumbo airplane. |
Nice job with pics, but you should have made a new thread for that. Now the intake manifold DIY pics are hidden in a transfer case thread...
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I'm still trying to figure out how to make a simple link with those pictures, but I also posted and shared this heavy job with many other BMW's forum in the related task. Meaning if you search for: vacuum leak, intake manifold gasket removal, or search for code P0171/P0174/P1158/P1160 the tread will likely take you to my job and pictures above.
(01 BMW X5 4.4i) |
Getting Ready To Remove the Transfer Case
all pretty pictures but this job is actually fairly hard. How he did it by himself is amazing.
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Doing this job right now
I started this job yesterday, even had a helping hand.
Dont let the easy pictures fool you. This is difficult job, even for a person like me who likes to do almost everything on this car. So far everything is slow and difficult, Drive shafts not coming off easily bolts hard to turn and reach, will see, Im already starting to wish I had paid a mechanic to install a rebuilt transfer case, even though I can t really afford it. If you dont need your car for 2-4 days then by all means do it and have a good variety of tools. |
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Thanks alot superblue for your comment!!!
Truly appreciated... Yeah like you say, it is a pretty heavier job to perform specially for those who doesn't know too much about mechanic or probably just begin to learn about vehicles. Althought, I'm Not a mechanic guy, I'm just the same like any other BMW"s owner outhere. I've learned and done all this heavy jobs above from this forum and thanks to other BMW's folks outhere who have worked so hard to share those pictures to others.. I just believe that with passion, you can learn to do anything... There are alot of guys outhere "claiming to be the professional just because they have a peace of paper, but the bottom line is, they dont know that much. Imagine BMW's stealer wanted: $3,265 to perform that job above, and when it only cost me just: $50 dollars to replace all the gaskets myself. |
This looking Better
Ok so I put back everything and have not driven it yet.
Here are some things to look out for in this job: Remember mine is a 2003 3.0 X5 , most likely the last month they put a NV-125 transfer case. Pulled out case.if you are replacing Chain and the plastic inner pilot bearing then you can probably get away with not even taking the case out as long as front shaft is somewhat loose and not rusted at the splines and back shaft can be half removed by removing bolts near case and center holder of shaft.Car needs to be jacked up high. You will need special pliers to remove ring blah blah look at youtube video by cobratransmission . I advise taking the case out. Car needs to be on 4 jacks so all tires can rotate,very important. You do not need any type of pullers, no need to remove rear triangle thing that is held down by 36 mm bolt, no need for case puller, on the case there is actuality a place where you can put a screw driver to split the case. No need to remove shift linkage, you can drop transmission down enough to get your hands in there to remove case bolts.observe that you are not putting too much pressure on the cable that runs form transmission to your shifter up there. the open end ratchet wrench will be the only way to remove case bolts!!!!, must be short in length, previously stated used was 1/2 inch, mine was 3/8 dont know why ? half the bolts you can only feel.So get ready to make love to you case. For this job get a range of deep sockets 10mm,13mm,15mm many times short ones wont work, You will probably need 2 people to put exhaust back , and where exhaust is connected to (near sensor) use screwdriver to separate pipes so they fit in, something like that. By the way transfer case itself is easy to work on, you need at least those special pliers that open that ring. So I looked at mine and guess what no visible signs of anything wrong, no stretched chain, no bad splines, gears and bearing great. Shoot so what was that noise ???? mechanic verified it was the case. But I visually verified nothing was wrong, anyways I changed the chain and the plastic bearing, I did not change the big bearing because they lookend new.and was told they almost never go out.besides it looks like big headache to change them. anyways while down there I found that both front boots were cracked and grease dirty and almost gone,so I will repack those and fix later. Possibly small engine and front transfer case leak. what joy it is! Don't do this job if you dont have a wide range of tools and you cant jack up the car high enough! |
The exhaust doesn't have to be removed to do this job, at least not on M54 X5. You can loosen the bolts for the tcase crossmember and tilt it out with the exhaust in place. The crossmember bolt holes are slotted for this purpose and with it out of the way there's plenty of room to pull the tcase off the back of the trans.
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hey guys, i was wondering if this is normal :confused: (i will post pictures).
transfer case is not leaking and transmission seems fine. But the area all around it is wet and moisture. But not too long ago, i was approaching a stop sign up on the hill. As soon as i accelerated, boooom like somebody hit in the back. and since then no problems. few weeks later noticed this wet area at the transfer case. Already set up an appointment with San Diego Bmw , would like to know what to expect. Thank you guys |
I dropped off the car today, was told will be getting a call tomorrow with the overpriced solution :)
Anyone ?! |
I have no answer but am curious what they find. Let us know.
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Transfer case isn't the problem :) It was seal in the transmission .
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Amazing!
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As a DIYer myself i admire your work. Just a question, when you tipped the transmision down you did not have to remove the bolts which hold the transmission to the engine?
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Pisendar: my X5 oil leak like yours, do you mind to share us how much dealer charged to replace these gaskets? Did they change your X transmission fluid when replacing them?
Thanks! |
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Dealer was going to charge me around $950. But since the car was under the warranty, they had to call them and negotiate the price. Warranty dropped down dealer labor price and the Final cost was $549.90. +$50( deductible) Thanks |
Thanks Pisendar, totally ~$600 is not bad. My X problem is similar to your but oil leak is not coming from transmission fluid but transfercase. I ordered output shaft seal and shaft seal for transfercase. I will replace seals on this coming up thursday.
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Deep socket 36mm (1 7/16") needed, and I don't have that.
( to open the T case you don't removed this nut) |
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Pisendar, yes I did. Ordered 1 output shaft seal (P/N 24117557066), 1 transfer case shaft seal (P/N 27107539262), 1 transmission drive extension gasket (P/N 24137557074). I also did transmission fluid, replaced trans fluid filter and transmission pan gasket.
It took me 6 hours to completed everything. No more leak. |
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Thanks for quick respond,,, do You have 3.0 engine ? |
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Yes i have 2004 and 3.0 engine. What year and model you have? Are you going to fix it yourself? Let me know if you have any question regarding this repair. I did it myseft with my friend's lift.
Here is my X5 x-drive tranfercase & transmission detail from REALOEM: |
I have a NV125 T-CASE Fully rebuilt LOS ANGELES AREA 1200.00 /562 3917011
X5 BMW 1999-2002 SOME 2003 |
Thanks for the great write up. Replaced my chain last night without removing the transfer case from the X.
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BMW X5 TRANSFER CASE (rebuilt) With drive shaft refinish
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just finished replacing the chain. Transfer case reinstalled. the only problem I am having is removing the two broken exhaust studs. Used hammer with no luck. Any help or ideas would be great. Thanks for the write up. Took 10 hours taking my time.
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you may wanna buy a torch flame from home depot and a punch chisel and a hammer pictures attached good look do it slow and nice (exhaust stud buy em at bmw dealer part number 11621704717
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Great thread!
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got her done. I forgot how much power my 4.4 has as I have been babying it for months now. Thanks for the great write up, everything worken perfect.
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So is the general consensus that its 'ok' to drive it with a stretched chain for a while? Could someone do a DIY for this without removing the transfer case from the car? I'm about to purchase a 3.0 MT5 that I believe to have this issue.
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BTW I used my 36mm oil filter cap socket for the TC output bolt. 2001 4.4, 140,000 miles
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Guys, what is the torque for the E12 torx bolts on the transfer case and what was supposed to be on the shaft splines, grease or NeverSeez that it is an anti seize & lubricating compound?
It doesn't look like the original stuf is only grease. |
Guys, quite a few of you opened the transfer case already. What is the torque for these bolts so I can finish the job. I couldn't find this info anywhere but I went by the size and figured that 30NM is good enough. Can you please post what torque you used for the transfer case bolts?
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Having trouble getting the rear driveshaft out. Any tips? Nuts are off on both ends... Do I then drop the CSB? Then I pry from the rear? I'm not finding any write ups on this step. Thanks.
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I haven't pulled the DS from an X5, but on every other BMW I've done it on, it's necessary to drop the CSB first. Usually there's a centering pin that goes into the transmission's output shaft that's too long to let it come down without the slack in the shaft that comes with dropping the CSB.
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If i remember right this is what i did.
Obviously you unbolted it from both sides and the middle support. You have to push it towards the back back to be able to release the rear drive shaft from the TC first. Then you can pull it forward to detach the shaft from the rear differential. The constant velocity joint is pretty tight but push it slowly all around on the bolts and it should come off. |
Make marks on csb to put it back in the same place.
And yes , you have to lower it |
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I would appreciate your wisdom on this :) |
2003 X5 3.0 transfer case grinding extremely loud!
I will attempt to fix this on my own. after researching hours i have summoned my inner mechanic (again) and will bring down the transfer case rain or shine! will post results after!
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Good luck to you and feel free to reach out with any questions. I felt that all things considered, this is a "reasonable" repair, even for a novice mechanic like myself.
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It is easier than it looks. The real main key for this is preparation. Make sure u have all the tools and supplies needed in this diy. . Just go slow and easy cuz there are quite a bit of things u gotta pull off. I dropped the exhaust on my face and cut my face. Have fun!
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Good luck, I need to replace my chain, I don't have any grinding noises thank god, just the metallic sound of the chain hitting the case now and again. I think I'm just going to replace the whole unit, I don't like the idea of having to split the casing and it doesn't use a gasket, if you get a leak you're screwed! I found a shop here in the Bay area that has a reman unit in stock for my 4.6, they also sell the modified shaft with the longer splines. |
Has anyone replace the chain without taking the whole transfer case out?
2002 3.0 |
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The chain needs to be wrapped around the sprocket inside the TC, so you basically have to assemble everything at once. MAYBE, if you got the bottom of the TC off (I forget if that is possible without removing it), and you had one of those chain tools (connects and disconnects the chain at the link, forget the name), then you could feed the new chain up and around the sprocket, and reconnect it. Easier to drop the TC.... |
I thought it might be a little different with a 3.0. Thanks for the info.
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I was able to replace the chain without removing the tc. 3.0 might be a little different with a 4.4 bec the exhaust pipes were not in the way.
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Sorry if I've missed it, Where do you purchase the chain from?
Also, are the other TC parts available? I live in Australia and can't seem to find anything local. all the US prices you guys mention are 50% more on this side of the Pacific. |
You buy all the parts from here: Automatic, Standard Transmission and Transfer Case Rebuild Kits, Cobra Transmission Parts 1-800-293-1848, Cobra Transmission
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Thanks
Just finished this job and was not to bad. Started with wrenchs and such but really requires a good impact. Made the job easy. Thanks for the post, i would not have attempted without. I used 18v dewalt impact, cobra chain and all else was able to use again. Total repair bill $107.00 plus my time approx 8 hours total. Thanks again great work
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Gotta subscribe to this thread. Priceless.
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Invaluable information in this thread. Thanks!
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X5 e53 3.0, Ratchet clacking sound under hard acceleration, quiet on slow starts
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Here are some tips I wished I knew before doing this transfer case chain job, kinda following my nose and most of the instructions from everyone else. Passing 'em forward: 1. I rolled the front wheels up on 7"-8" high car ramps and leveled the rear end, wheels off the ground, on jack stands. That was enough, with trans in neutral and e-brake off it was easy to spin rear wheels for spline/flange alignment. 2. I removed the TC completely, which clearly made it easier to work on and clean internally than it would be if you left the back half attached to the transmission and did it all lying on your back. Yes this job can be done without completely removing the TC because the two gears for the chain slide out. The circlip that holds the front drive shaft gear on was a b#tch, so I left that one it place, put the new chain for a NV125 New Process TC (from Cobra Transmission parts, check your TC model number, on badge, easy to see) over both gears and gently tapped the main shaft gear in place, no problem. You DEFINITELY need a star ratchet wrench, e10-e12 mm combo (see pic, mine was a Powerbuilt brand, eBay, $9.00 worked very nice) and separating the TC from the trans is no prob. 3. You DO NOT need to unbolt the drive shaft ends, front or rear, at the far differential pumpkin ends!! Just remove the 6 rear drive shaft bolts (and the rubber damper disc) right close to the TC. Knowing this woulda saved me a bunch of time and hastle. On the REAR drive shaft, just remove the center support and have someone pull shaft (with hands) away from the TC and it'll just slide off it's center pin. The front drive shaft is splined so it slides right out of TC when you separate it from the tranny. 4. You DO NOT need to remove the exhaust, just unbolt and tweak the alum heat shield to get to the crossmember bolts. BE CAREFUL! Twice I dropped the cross member bolt or socket INTO the hollow cross member :stickpoke, necessitating removing the crossmember to tip it out. Of COURSE I was always on the LAST bolt both times it happened... 5. You DO NOT need to remove the large 36 mm nut that secures the drive shaft flange to the TC output shaft (unless you're replacing seals, bearings behind it). Leave it alone. 6. I used AC Delco Engine Sealant 88864346 to seal the TC case gasket-less halves. It behaves much differently than silicone, tougher, more firm, bonds to metal surface way better. Use it for EVERYTHING that needs sealing. Since my seals weren't leaking I left them and the bearings alone. Don't forget to put a little bead of grease between the lips of the rubber seal before sliding it back on the trans output shaft. The job overall was not too difficult, straightforward, and a tremendous savings ($100 DIY vs $2,000+ at the dealer). Thanks XPosters, you saved me again :thumbup:! |
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I just finished reading all 16 pages of this thread. Nothing short of outstanding contributions.
BIG props to the OP for getting this thread rolling 7 years ago! I'm not experiencing any of the chain slop symptoms on my 96K mile 4.4i but will have this great guide if I need it. Thanks again folks. Mike |
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You are correct, it's not that bad of a job, if you have a lift, trans jack and air tools. I had the transfer case on the ground in about 45 minutes. The chain and seals are pretty cheap to get (remember, this is a NV transfer case, not something BMW cooked up), but I ended up having two issues: 1) I couldn't find a replacement front output shaft (front shaft that has the splines for the driveshaft that goes to the front differential), and I didn't trust just doing the driveshaft spline extension. I had it torn down, new chain and seals, but just didn't like the looks of that front output shaft, so I bought another transfer case to start with, and also did the spline extension on the driveshaft. 2) Noting again that this is an NV transfer case, I'm not sure why they suggest using ATF in them, other than to cut down on noise when they're cold. Every other NV transfer case I've ever seen uses gear fluid, and the places I see rebuilding these units insist on use of gear fluid, or they will not honor the warranty. I'm thinking this is partially why these chains stretch so much more commonly than other NV units (or else BMW just under-spec'd these units when they incorporated them). Disclaimer to above: All information is concerning the non-X-Drive units. I have not worked on the X-Drive ones. |
Brump.
Gosh. I feel like the j3rk bumping on a 9 year old thread. Almost 10 yrs if one is counting For those that have done the job, did anyone replace the `magnet' for debris or did you just wipe it clean. I've tinkering with stuff I'm R&R out of the TC - just short of the chain, and plastic bearing+washer. The magnet is in my cart. |
Nevermind. The lightbulb ran off in my head. It's it's analogous to the magnetism of a fridge gasket, I might as well just replace the dang thing.
I think I read almost every response on this thread. I don't recall seeing a note on anybody replace this part in the t-case while it was cracked open |
I put in magnetic fill and drain plug about 6 years ago. Did the fluid change few weeks ago, and there was some fine particles on both. A lot more on the drain, but confirms they work. I don’t think anything will happen if you just wash your magnet.
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Excellent Slick.
Did not even consider it it's there but not exactly in front of me there found it https://cobratransmission.com/X3-ATC...467-Drain-Plug Penny Wise, LB Foolish. I'll wait till Cobra opens up so I can have a live conversation. OE seals or their aftermarket seals at 75% LESS..... |
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I'd wipe it off and clean it and reuse it. But if you do get a new one, I'd be interested to see results from any experiments you can do to compare the new vs. old. (e.g., see how many nails they can pick up). |
well: maybe bad analogy but like fridge seals. they do get weaker. However, moot point I suppose as the linked part has a mag on it
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How much crap was on the flex magnet - the thin one that sits in the slot in the casing
I'm planning on new plug and 50/50 on the flex. With that said,I would think the magnet is still dang strong on the flex and the latter may have lost some magnetisim ---- Cobra is adament that if the case is cracked open, go the extra mile and change out that flex magnet. |
Huh. Go figure. I was all set on NV125 parts. Turns out it's a LWX500
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For the WIKI as I read this thread in whole like 9 years later....
I was all set on ordering NV125 parts. Turns out I had the LWX500. The chain is the same. I did order from Cobra since I did call them and ask what are your thoughts on this magnetic strip. We had a conversation, they earned the business. The chain can be found for 25% less elsewhere... The big difference was the seals for the LWX500. Buy the seals for this at your favorite OE dealer. It is cheaper. |
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Great thread.
Wanted to add how to get the bearing from the rear output shaft out. Thought we were going to see it in this post quoted below but it didn't go that far. In fact I couldn't find anyone showing that on the web so here is some info. To get the ring gear assembly out of the case, remove the output flange as shown in the quoted post below. Then the oil seal, under the oil seal is a snap ring on the shaft that has to be removed. Then press it out by pressing the shaft what would be forward when installed in the car. The bearing will be left in the case and is retained by a retaining ring (first picture I added which is looking from the inside out, Can make out the 2nd snap ring if you look hard). This retaining ring isn't in the bearings retaining ring groove but is a retaining ring that sits behind the bearing. To remove the bearing from the case it is simply remove the retaining ring and press it out (pressing same direction as the ring gear assembly). Voila. Big thing is to remove oil seal and the snap ring that is under it, from the shaft before pressing it out. After that is is pretty obvious. Yah my transfer case is really gunky inside. It has 184,000 miles and fluid was probably never changed. But still seems dirtier than I expected. Therefore changing all the ball bearings and the chain. Thaniel Quote:
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Looks like quite a job!
I'm doing some work under X5 and wanted to refresh some seals. https://i.ibb.co/WWj34ff/Screenshot-...407-Chrome.jpg I figure #4, 9, 10 can be done with transfer case mounted and #3 probably need it dropped? |
#9 is a metal dust cover, not a seal as such. I think it is pressed onto the drive shaft.
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Correct, mine seems old and bent so I thought I'd replace it as well :)
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For reference, this gotta be the chain that everyone's been replacing
https://cobratransmission.com/transf...hain-1.25-wide |
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