Temp. gauge a little past middle piont
 

I recently changed my expansion tank on my 03 3.0i and my temp gauge is still inbetween the two middle white lines but past the dead center of the gauge is this normal? After doing a search on the forum someone said the gauge only has 3 points it measures cold,med, and hot not sure if thats true? I also have the old cap leaking but I never noticed it leaking before could this be from air in the system or just bad cap? I ordered a new cap last night just incase

Mine stays there too. It's consistant, it doesn't go up, and I've noticed no other problems, so I take it as this is normal for this individual machine. My 5 series never budges from straight center once it's warm, but FWIW, I'm not worried about the X5.

MG

A hard search turns up a few posts on topic, but nothing definitive:
some ideas include temp sensor sender, thermostat, etc.

From memory, the "temp gauge" is really more like an off/on switch
gauge, as a properly working "gauge" goes quickly to mid point/12
o'clock, unless something is amiss or it gets really hot, in the cooling
system.
Sorry, I couldn't find much more on topic to help.
GL,mD

just make sure you bled the system properly if you installed the exp. tank

Yes I followed directions from the forum. I opened the bleeder screw filled up till a steady flow of coolant was coming out then started the car and turned the heat to high added a little more coolant and there was a steady stream of coolant passing the radiator cap. I also rev'ed the engine a little

MD is correct in a way. The gauge is controlled by a computer output.

"Analog instruments are controlled by the IKE from signals it receives over separate inputs. The needle of the coolant temperature gauge is centered if coolant temperature is between 75°C and 110°C."

75° C = 167° F
80° C = 176° F
85° C = 185° F
90° C = 194° F
95° C = 203° F
100°C = 212° F
105°C = 221° F
110°C = 230° F
115°C = 239° F
120°C = 248° F

Zulu95 is there an exact temp we should be running at where you found that infomation?

No it just quoted the spread. I found it on another forum about 3 years ago. If you want to be really sure then you need to fit something like a SCANGAUGE II that will give you exact real time temp readings. (I must post a pic of my Scangauge mounted.)
I would not trust the BMW "Idiot" gauge for anything. Older models (70's & 80's)had a real gauge that would vary quite a lot with driving/outside temps etc. I guess they got sick of answering questions and doing free warranty cooling system checks when owners saw the gauge reading higher temps.

I don't know for the 3.0, but the 4.4 doesn't start moving part the middle till it hits 113*C. At that point, it is running too hot unless you're in like 120*F weather, at which point you're realy pushing the limits of the cooling system anyways. Unlock you OBC (Google it if you don't know how) and tell us what the temp is when its at it's hottest. Also, make sure the aux fan (electric one on front of the radiator) comes on when you flick on the A/C. The next thing to check is the fan clutch (bolted to the motor) by making sure it has resistance. Look on e38.org BMW 7-series information and links for testing procedures.....we don't have the 3.0 in the 7, but its still the same mechanical item so testing is the same.

So i have a question M5James, If the Aux Fan in front is not working then could that be the reason my X5 begins to overheat in slow moving traffic as opposed to driving on the highway without traffic?