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dville 09-10-2009 04:38 AM

Alternator Replacement with Pics for 4.4 M62 V8 (rebuilt)
My alternator / battery light came on one day while driving.

I was nearby, so I drove to my in-law's house (50 miles from home) and later measured battery voltage while engine was off: 12.6V
Start the truck and the battery voltage DROPPED to 11V, and would not increase as I revved the engine

I left the truck there while I sourced a new alternator.

Dealer list $950.00
Dealer parts guy wholesale 'hook-up': $752
WOW! At those prices, I was now fully prepared to take the thing apart myself or take it an old alternator shop in town and try my luck.

Anyway, some internet searching led me to novastarparts.com They rebuild alternators and starters in bulk for emergency fleet vehicles and others.

Price CANNOT be beat: $171.45 !!!

dville 09-10-2009 04:39 AM

Had to wait a week for delivery as they said they had a rush of orders for this part.



Includes alternator o-ring seal





Took tools and part down to truck to fix it, and had to stop to buy a new Torx 45 bit from the auto parts store. ($5)
I forgot my digital camera at home, so I had to use my cell phone camera.

Opened rear hatch, removed spare tire, removed rear suspension leveling air pump, and and disconnected negative terminal of battery.

NOTE: I closed the read hatch when it started to drizzle.
You cannot open the rear hatch without the battery connected!
I had to open the rear door, lower the rear seat backs, lift up the floor from the front, and reconnect the battery from inside the truck.

Removed air filter intake bellmouth and hose.

Used a large adjustable wrench to remove fan nut (reverse thread, so Clockwise to loosen)
I used a long screwdriver to brace the bolts to stop the flange from spinning


Old alternator, not one or more bolts holding it in is blocked by the tensioner pulley, so I removed it.
You have to use a small screwdriver to pry off the black plastic cover

Here is the T-45 torx bit that I bought

Tensioner pulley removed

Coolant hose to alternator removed, and the coolant draining out.

Applied a little pressure to the casing to slip the alternator out of it's housing, and more coolant will spill out.
About a gallon or slightly more was drained out in the process.

I placed a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to prevent damaging the fins.
I had to rotate and fight to get the alternator out past the power steering hose that is right in front of it. (the one that is going right down the middle of this picture from the top)

Old and new for comparison:

A look inside the water cooled alternator housing. Here is the coolant outlet hole at the bottom

and the coolant inlet hole at the top

New baby in place. I reused the original battery terminal bolt since it was nicer and had a plastic cover with the BMW logo on it.

Troublesome power steering hose on the right in this photo.

Serpentine belt back in place

Added coolant back to engine, and made sure air bubbles were all gone after thermostat was open.
Unlocked my instrument cluster to read voltage, and it looks good so far.

Cleaned up and drove 50 miles home!

alpac 09-10-2009 08:47 AM

Excellent write up:thumbup: It needs to be kept in the article section.

Philmust 09-10-2009 09:24 AM

Thanks for the info its always good to know where to get cheap parts. I was wondering one thing though how do you unlock the instrument cluster to read voltage?

dville 09-10-2009 09:44 AM

From Qsilver7 on bimmerfest.com:
You add up the last 5 digits of your car's VIN,
get in car and close the door...turn the ignition to POSITION 1 (position 2 will work but you'll need to fasten your seat belt to free up the display)
press & hold the RIGHT button on the intrument cluster until you see TEST 01
(release button, then)
Continue to press (and release) the right button as the numbers progress upward UNTIL you get to TEST 19
Once you get to TEST 19...enter the sum of the last 5 digits of your VIN by pressing the LEFT button on the instrument cluster until the correct number appears.
To enter or set that number...press the RIGHT button on the instrument cluster.
The instructions above should UNLOCK your OBC (if it was previously LOCKED) and will give you unfettered access to the all 21 (hidden or secret) TESTs of the OBC

The info below gives more detail about each TEST and what some of the screens will look like on your CCD (check control display) on the instrument cluster:
Here's the procedure to unlock the OBC:
Turn ignition to position 1 (position 2 won't work unless you FASTEN YOUR SEATBELT)
Push right button in the instrument cluster and keep it pushed. You will first see "Check Control OK", some seconds later you will see "Test Nr.01"
Push the left button on the instrument cluster to see the car's identification number. Add the 5 digits together and write down that number, you will need it for unlocking all the functions. Example: DG23278 will lead to 2+3+2+7+8 = 22
Push the right button until you see "Test Nr.19"
Push left button until you see the number that is equal to the one you calculated above
Push right button again

Now you will have unrestricted access to Test No.3-21. If you made an error in the procedure mentioned above, Test No.3-21 will only display Lock:ON

Most of the tests are self-explanatory:
Display Car's identification number, HW/SW version, construction date (week/year)
A very beautiful instrument test
Current consumption (liters/hour)
Average consumption (liters/100 km)
Current range
I think this is remaining fuel in tank. Three sets of numbers: A/B/C. And I've noticed A+B=C.
Engine RPM / Coolant Temp (C)
Current Speed (kph)
System voltage at Term. "R" (shows Battery Voltage w/engine NOT running...shows Alternator w/engine running)
Country/Language (US, Spa, Ger, Jap, etc.)
Units am/pm
Average Speed
Date of Software Mask
Production Diagnosis
(may say OEL TEMP...but numerical digit remains constant regardless of oil temperature)
Display Vehicle Specific Data
Alarm Changeover (cont. vs. intermittent OBC chime)
Correction factor for fuel consumption (nicht šndern!)
Reset all defect codes

This is what you'll see in the CCD:
Several numbers and data
[Instrument Cluster Display Test]
VBR: x,x (liters/hr)
RW-VBR: x,x (liters/100 km)
RW: x (km)
T: (liters)
TMTL: x,x (liters) / KTMP C
V: x (kph)
UB: xx,xx (V)
LAND: 2=USA, 3=I, 4=E, 5=J, 6=F, 7=CDN, 8=AUS/GOLF, 0=D, 1=GB
EINHEIT 1: B3, B4, B5, B6, B7, B8, B9, BA, BB, BC, BD, BE, BF, B0, B1 EINHEIT 2: [similar to above, I didn't want to mess with it]
VANK: xx,x (kph)
DIAG: 01 01 000 E3
PROM: 00 12, 01 37, 02 18, 03 E6, 04 02, 05 B3, 06 FF, 07 7E
HORN: DTON or [DTON flashing]
KVBR: 1000

TEST No. 9 is Battery voltage

dville 09-10-2009 09:47 AM

When you reconnect the battery, the DSC and ABS or BRAKE lights may be on all the time even after the engine is running.

To reset them, drive to the dealer and pay $150 for diagnostic fee
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, then all the way to the right and the lights should go out. (I could not believe it when I found out this one 2 yrs ago when I had a dead battery)

jst2878 09-10-2009 10:16 AM

yeah those guys at novastAR are legit. i did the same and saved a few hundred dollars. HIGH FIVE!

Philmust 09-10-2009 10:28 AM

Thanks so much for the info Dville

princemoe2m 01-30-2010 09:55 PM

do u guys know if the change there website or the just closed for good?

mywidebody02 01-30-2010 10:12 PM


Originally Posted by princemoe2m (Post 706888)
do u guys know if the change there website or the just closed for good?

their site says they closed.

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