Interesting key issue
 

Greets,
I finally got fed up with my non-functioning key, and decided to fix it. It would start the car, but not activate any of the locks. I tried using the procedure to re configure it, but, it would not give any response. My other key works just fine, btw.

I ordered the battery from Mouser, per a write-up, and when it arrived, it looks like the mfg switched the positive and negative tab positioning, so it was not possible to insert the tabs into the slots in the key circuit board.

I instead soldered a couple of small wires to the circuit board and then to the battery, taped the key back together and tried to reprogram it.

I was only partially successful. I was able to get the repaired key to lock the doors, and open the trunk, but not unlock the doors or start the car.

Messing around and trying multiple programming attempts, I one time was able to get the key to start the car, but not unlock the doors. One time I disabled my wife's good key. Doh! Got that one working again, but now my key won't start the car.

Any thoughts?

Sigh...at least I repaired my outside air temperature sensor. Batting .500 would be something to brag about if I was a baseball player!

Gary

i'm not an expert at all on this..but IMO you should maybe cough up the $ and go to the dealer for a new key!

Yeah, I know...but I hate giving that much $$ to the dealer for a stinkin' key. :D

Gary

Seem like you did not re-programming it in the right way...
Put the working key in the ignition. Turn to position 2 for like 1 second then back and remove the key.

Press and hold the "unlock" button then press the "lock" button 3 times, you should hear all the locks cycle through.

Now take the non working key and press and hold the "unlock" button then press the "lock" button 3 times.

Then turn the ignition on and off again to end the programming....

unrelated key issue
 

I know this issue is unrelated, but since it happened recently, I thought I'd post my experience.

The other day, I went to the window tinting store to have a window re-tinted and when I got out of my vehicle the fob wouldn't lock or unlock the doors. I thought maybe my key had died, but once I left, the fob started functioning the lock/unlock features. I went back the next day to have the work completed and again the key failed to operate. It turns out the power lines above the store are the high cancer causing sorts that you don't want to be around for long periods of time. Apparently high voltage power lines interfere with the keyfob. I'm not talking the power lines that run down your street (unless you live off Parker Rd.) these are the kind that are mounted on the big steel power poles that you usually see traversing open space from city to city.

Anyhow, I'm guessing your issue just came up out of nowhere with no environmental changes in your area, which means my situation doesn't apply.

Thanks for the reply...I did just as the writeup stated. I was unable to get it to function until the cycling to position 2 and back 5 times method. I was able to get the locks to cycle when programming the second (replaced battery) key, but after starting the car with the first key to end the programming, the second key would only lock the door and unlock the trunk. The unlock button didn't function, and the key wouldn't start the car.

I have tried programming at least 10 times...same effect, with the rare occasion that the key will start the car one time only. It will never unlock the car.

Odd....

Gary

I feel your pain. My wife`s key works and mine doesn`t. It starts the car fine and all, just wont lock or unlock the doors. When I took my FOB apart, i measured the voltage on the battery and got a reading of 3.42 volts. When I measured voltage when pressing the buttons, I`d get a voltage drop, so I know it was sending a signal. Of course I tried reprogramming and all, but no joy. I may take it apart agian and resolder everything. Like you, I am VERY reluctant to spend 300 bucks for a freakin` key!

lol talk about key issues, i bought my X used with just 1 key and it never worked,,, took it apart resoldered the battery as per DIY. Never worked,... went to Nixon Auto and bought a new key ($200). They couldnt' program it saying there's something wrong with my vehicle.. i don't blame nixon as they have been great with everything so far in the past. I have been going to them for years now. Our bimmers just have funny problems. that's what we get for driving the ultimate driving machine

I called The Ultimate Fixing Machine.

It sounds like you just did not program it correctly.

Method 1:
1. Working from within the vehicle and with the doors shut
2. Turn ignition to position 1 and back to off within 5 seconds.
3. Remove the key from ignition and press and hold the unlock button for 15 seconds during this time press the key lock button 3 times within 5 seconds.
4. Release both buttons.
5. Doors will lock and unlock to show correct programming has occurred.

Method 2:
To do this procedure you need to have one working key and one key that needs to be programmed.
1) Get in and close all doors.
2) Turn on the ignition and turn off quickly. (No more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds.
3) Remove the 1st key.
4) Hold the key up near your left shoulder (this is so it is closer to the remote receiver antenna.
5) Hold down the unlock button and press the lock button 3 times. Release the unlock button and the doors lock which confirms the operation.
6) Quickly repeat steps 4 & 5 for key #2 etc.
If it does not work, try doing the keys in opposite order. Key 2 then key 1, vs 1 then 2.

Method 3:
Alternate if you do not have a working remote
1. Turn key to position 1 five times very quickly 2. Remove key 3. Hold unlock button then press lock button 3 times, release unlock button.
4. If you have another key do the same button pressing within 30 seconds 5. Turn on ignition to finalize.
PLEASE NOTE: This programming procedure programs the remote control part of the key. Any transponder chip for the immobilizer (starting of car) will not be programmed and must be done by a specialist.


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One of them should work and have you X5 key working 100% fine. If not and you truly believe its the key at fault, If you live in the New York area I will be able to contact a friend of mine who makes X5 keys for around $100 ish. YES the same exact key and he programs it as well. SAME computer programing as BMW.

Get a new key at the dealer..get it done right. You've got a key that doesn't work, tape all over it, but you drive a bimmer...

My key works, just not not the FOB.

Tape? Why would there be "tape all over it" ??? I've had my FOB apart twice and looks the same as when I bought the X.

I find this thread very interesting. And getting a key from the dealer is an option in most cases. I'm told that that option is not available for me as explained here.

I bought a used 2001 X5 in March of last year. It came with one remote and a valet key. The remote started getting flaky and I realized quickly that it differed from my old 740iL remote because it had a rechargeable battery, etc. I learned that important fact when I went down to get a new battery, I was informed that a new key was necessary. Within minutes of that saddening revelation, I found that the previous owners had evidently ordered their 10th programmed remote which is the "limit allowed". and that any additional keys would require the replacement of a control module to allow programming to occur. The quoted cost for the module was $ 500 excluding labor... Then, of course you have the cost of the key as well with a charge for programming!

Has anyone else had that "key count issue". Is it a valid problem? Or just a preset BMW expectation......

I was referring to the OP..You're not the OP. this is,,

"droffigpc": Yes, I was advised by my dealer that there is a 10 key provision as you described. Hard to believe someone would have gone through that allotment! WOW.

The X was owned by a husband and wife doctor team that evidently had extra keys made both for family or employees to drive and to replace remotes where the battery probably died.

I suspect, after contacting them, that they indeed turned in all keys when they traded the car in, but the wholesale of the vehicle to the dealer I purchased it from never transferred them.

Anyway, I think I have a more elegant solution than replacing the module and getting a new remote. My son just completed the full gamut of Home/ Car Audio and Security training. They used my F350 diesel Pickup as a class project and installed a fairly sophisticated alarm system with remote start and two way remote. It even provides a delay for the diesel glow plugs to clear before starting... The alarm's remote uses 900 Mhz technology and has a range of almost a half mile, barring metal buildings and the like. The "status" button can be used anywhere in range to determine the status of the alarm, and even provides both the inside temperature and battery voltage. :D

I am expecting to have him install the alarm on the X and use the alarm remote to correct for my X's deficiencies. It is capable of having circuits added to allow both the window operation and the back hatch release as well. It will be a while before I have this done, but I have the alarm unit already, so at least that part of the equation is complete.

Once that is installed, then I would only have to purchase a second valet key. I hope there is no limit on those too! :rolleyes: They cirtainly will be less expensive.

I will have to guard the one semi-working remote. It will be needed to circumvent the security at the steering column to allow the security control of the alarm system to work.

The alarm is branded "CompuStar" and the typical installation is about $ 1500. The alarm units themselves only ran me about $ 600 while he was in school......

Compustar would be the brand of choice Units range between 150-800 bucks depending on where you course them and model. If you can hold off and wait, P2W9000-SS is the model to get, i think it should be out at retailers by Xmas if not sooner

key wont open doors remotely
 

Hope this query hasnt been heard here yet.....was just wondering if anyone had tried to replace the key battery on a 2003 X5 and only had one key when doing so? I dont have a spare key and dont want to take the chance that replacing the battery will see me not being able to access or start my X5:(

I had lost track of this thread...sorry! I kind of ignored the issue...I guess I will try and attack it again.

BTW, I only have tape on it for testing purposes...Once/if it gets repaired, I will glue it back together again. :D

Gary

Had a problem with my 2001 X5 FOB, and just tried the method which has one working and one non-working key FOB. The 'unlock-press 3 times lock button' and it seemed to have worked. All seems fine. Thanks for the input.

If i had tape on my key id remove it to put over your pie hole. I love how people get on here and say ah well guess you better take it to the stealer. This forum is for the DIY. I have never let BMW work on my X and i never will. Go to the bimmerboard if you want a cool chat room to hang out in!

And you should go hang out on bimmer board! What the heck is this forum for. if you dont know the issue or fix, dont make youself look like a weezle by saying taking to the stealer. Lmao geez