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winter warm up
ok so this my first winter with a 2006 4.4 x5.what is the proper warm up for it? now i live in northern alberta,im talking warm up in -25 to -35 celcius.also anybody use any sort of engine or oil pan heater?thanks guys
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i usually wait until the RPM meter needle goes down. If you look closely, and listen, you can see it gradually drop, and then a larger drop, then the engine is not as loud after that drop. But this isn't as cold as where you are. If i were you, i would wait until the coolant meter goes out of the blue zone.
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I also live in alberta i wait til the rpm drops or as killcrap said wait 60 sec. |
60 seconds seems a little quick,how about trans warm-up etc.nothing warms up that quick at - 30.
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I'm in Edmonton and have had the x5 for about 2 winters. Although it's garaged when I do a cold start I let the rpm fall which takes about 30-60 seconds. Then drive off driving very slowly and not letting the rpm go past 3000-3500 rpm. After the temp gauge is at half way point I drive like normal. I do this if I start after it's been in garage or outside. This was discussed a while back as well and most people agreed that this is the best way to warm the x5 up.
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alright,i guess im just used to my truck,thanks for the help..
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Yea I was used to different style warm ups before as well with the explorer and impala but learned its actually better to warm up a vehicle this way because it warms up a lot faster with driving and Idling also isn't good for the engine.
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Looks like lots of Albertans here. One thing to keep in mind, when we get a real cold spell and your car is not garaged, you need to plug in a block heater. even the oil in the pan, transmission fluid etc will not flow properly at these temps. My 7 series would never run right until warmed up for at least a few minutes. Just driving away can wreak havoc on transmissions and gears etc. Ever notice how the error messages pile up when it's really cold? there was a you tube video on this very subject that explained in detail this very issue. I'll try to find the link. If there are any Petroleum Engineers on here it would be good to hear from them.
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No petroleum engineer here, but a mechanical engineer, 30 years in the engine business, and an ex-Albertan twice (Edmonton and Grande Prairie, on two different assignments).
Mikedd, there are no block heaters (in the traditional sense, ie jacket water immersion heaters) available for BMWs. You can use a silicone pad heater on the oil pan, available from multiple aftermarket sources, if you like. Not common, but helpful if you are parked outside below -40. 5w-30 and 0W-30 flow OK at those temperatures, but it gets worse the colder you go. The engine control unit is pretty good on the modern BMW engines, I never had cold start problems, and was down to -30 or so several times on trips (I didn't own BMWs when I lived in Alberta). While driving away can be hard on componentry, idling to try and warm the engine will have zero impact on transmission or gear temperatures. Since cold running causes faster wear, the goal is to shorten the duration of the warm-up period, by putting reasonable load on the engine and transmission. That means take it easy, light throttle, but drive as soon as the idle has stabilized (and you have visibility through your frosted up windows). BMWLOVER: Your procedure is exactly right for the X5. My only comment is that this is exactly the same recommendation for your previous vehicles. The difference is that the BMW is less tolerant of the abuse that your Explorer and Impala put up with. |
I'd suggest you want to minimize idling in winter. Running the engine below operating temp for long periods of time will result in moisture build-up in the engine. High engine moisture combined with very low Alberta temperatures will cause crank-case ventilation valve freeze-up (and $2000 repair bills). The dealers in Edmonton will tell you the same thing (if you can get them to admit to this problem).
The X5 is a great winter driver but the CCV is a weak-point when it comes to the very cold Alberta winters. Since this is your first winter with your X in an Alberta winter, I would strongly suggest that you research and understand CCV issues. They have the potential to result in high maintenance bills (if you don't have a warranty that covers it). Last winter I posted some pictures to show how I routinely check and clean-out my CCV in winter: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-pictures.html |
Good advice above regarding a short idle and a gentle drive to warm up. The only thing to add is to avoid short trips during cold spells, for the reasons Seabass pointed out pertaining to moisture buildup.
I've yet to any cold start problems on my bimmers through 9 winters. |
So you guys are saying in cold weather its best to start up the X and drive it off the second its past blue on the temp gauge? as oppose to letting it idle warm up for a good 2-3 mins? Even if its an older X? such as an 00/01/02?
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Check your manual. I'm not sure about the older models but the manual for my 2005 says to start it and drive away immediately (and conservatively) without any warm-up.
During a conversation with my local dealer following my CCV issues, the service manager echoed this statement. |
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You'll definitely need to have that car garaged overnight. Don't let it sit all night outside in those sub freezing temps. That can be murder on an X. And the CCV issues will definitely come into play. I speak from experience. We had a cold winter here 2 years ago around -10 degrees F and i started my car, it was a very rough start because the damn thing was frozen and left outside overnight. Long story short, my Valve cover gasket blew, only I didn't know it until I was on the freeway driving to work and smoke was billowing out of my hood, tailpipes, everywhere, there was no visibility. Pulled over, and the rest of the story is towed to the dealer, part replace, $$, etc. You get the picture. the VCG blew because my CCV was frozen with moisture. That was the last time I left my X outside overnight in the winter. |
Good point about always parking in a garage. My CCV problem surfaced after leaving the X on the driveway for 6 hours in -30°C weather.
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I just moved to Calgary and my 4.8is is currently on a truck on it's way here from Socal so this topic is relevant to my interests. Thanks to the posters for the answers to my warm up questions. I wasn't sure if I needed a block (or coolant) heater, but this thread seems to say "no."
The other thing I am worried about is the cosmetic and corrosion abuse on the vehicles that I see on the roads here. How do you keep your X5s nice? Do you recommend a clear bra to minimize damage from the stones, sand, etc on the road? If so, can anyone recommend an installer in Calgary? One more - do you recommend any kind of undercoating to inhibit rust? |
thats great if you have a garage.so does the 2006 x5 4.4 have easier access to the ccv valve?
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thanks for the advice everyone,just one other question this sight is scaring me,does anyone have a x5 that didnt have any problems?lol....
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Would highly recommend have the 3M clear film added to the front end of your X. Typical package covers front of hood, painted portion of front bumpers and the sideview mirrors. I also installed headlight and foglight protection. Dealer installed the clear film and I installed the headlight/foglight protection (ordered from here: WeatherTech Automotive Accessories - LampGard ? - 2006 BMW X5 - Headlamp Headlight Protection, LampGard by WeatherTech ). I have also had the clear film installed on other vehicles at a very good local 3M dealer, here: 3M Trimline Of Calgary - Auto Graphics and Paint Protection Film As for rust protection...useless in Calgary in my opinion. Never used it and never needed it. |
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I drive on the deerfoot every day 3 to 4 times a day about 30 to 50 kms so yes i have clear bra on my 01 X but not on my 04 4.8is cus i dont drive that in winter time at all. |
One thing to remember is to have oil separator and hoses made for winter.
I didn't remember to change those and the valve cover gasket and oil separator hose blew. So ended up paying a bit more than if had changed the parts in time. What comes to rusting, it's actually better if the car sits in freezing weather under roof, than if you drive it to warm garage after every short trip. If you drive it to garage always, first it gets frozen outside and then warms up in the garage, and depending on how long it stays in garage it may get dry or just warms up to get wet before you take it out again and then it's basically all the time wet - good basis for rusting. |
The 4.4 doesn't have an oil separator like the 3.0 and 4.6.
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Some severely cold and snowy weather just hit Calgary the past few days and the -20 to -30 degree temps will continue for a week.
This is the first winter the X is not being babied in a garage. I am a little nervous after reading about this CCV moisture stuff. I now have access to a garage (first night tonight), the X has not shown any issues after being outside for the past 4 days in -20 degree temps. When I first start up in the morning its sounds pretty rough when I turn it on, and the exhaust is really loud and shaky sounding, this goes away after some time of driving. Anyways, any suggestions? Am I probably safe from the CCV issues so long as I garage it this week? |
i just put a stick on oil pan heater and a battery blanket in.it was -32 in grande prairie for a couple nights and everything seemed good on start up,normal belt noise and stuff for a few seconds but thats normal in any vehicle at these temps.
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A bit late to this thread but my procedure for warming up all my cars has been the following:-
1.Start it and wait until the revs drop 2.Drive off and keep the revs below 2500 rpm (3.0 D) until engine reaches normal temperature. Furthermore,on my X5s users manual it also states not to warm up the car by idling,but to drive off at moderate engine speeds:) |
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If you have access to a warm garage, it wouldn't hurt to pull off your engine cover and check your CCV valves. If there is no "gunk" in them, then you can probably relax. If they are full of gunk, clean them out, and pay close attention to outdoor temps and how long you park outside. I wrote a bit of a DIY last winter. You should be able to search it out. |
Since I don't think the v8's have block heaters will having an oil pan heater help at all?
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Hi guys,there's a lower hose heater available from Canadian Tire it's got a thermostat built in,so it wouldn't boil the coolant.
I already asked my service adviser at our local dealer and he said that I would be the first one to add such a sing into the X as far as he recalls...anyway,he agried to do it at the dealer,obviously no warranty on the part... The heater comes in 3 different diameters...here's the link: ZeroStart™ Lower Radiator Hose Heater | Canadian Tire What do you think? It's nice to have a warm air blowing especially early morning,also it would help to reduce the gas usage as far as I understand,am I wrong? |
Service adviser at our local dealer said that oil pan blanket is gonna just boil the oil...not really good in his opinion and not really effective to warm up the block.
I've never used one ,so I don't know,but would like to hear from somebody who actually tried such a product. Quote:
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I wouldn't bother with the heater on the rad hose, as it introduces new joints that could leak. Better to stay with an external heater IMO. There is no particular reason to heat the coolant, it is just that that is what immersion heaters used to do. Heating the block via the coolant isn't really the goal. What you want is to ensure that the oil flows on startup, and that is best achieved by heating the oil, not the block.
You will be one of the very few to do this modification, due simply to the fact that it isn't necessary. In Alaska, fine, it can be more necessary. At Calgary temperatures, you will get a relatively small number of very cold days. Just make sure you have 5-30 or 0-30 oil, and you will be fine. While it may be nice to have warm air blowing, there is a reason that BMW offers heated seats and heated steering wheels. They are even nicer than warm air. Fuel consumption will be higher until the engine is warm. You won't likely save enough on fuel to pay for the cost of running the heater, but I don't have proof of that, just an opinion. An oil pan heater will not boil the oil, your service advisor has not used one. They are available in different wattages, and you need one for an 8 litre sump. If you put too much heat in there, it will be a waste, but you aren't likely to boil anything. Use a reasonable wattage, on a timer so that it is only on for an hour prior to your usual departure time. We used these heaters for years on heavy duty diesels. Others have used them on the X5. Just realize that you don't really need one. Also, the heaters aren't going to do anything about the crankcase ventilation valve freezing. It can freeze up while you are driving, and you aren't going to be plugged in then. The failure mode is as follows: Lots of short trips without fully warming the engine leads to a buildup of condensate in the oil. Condensate collects in the CCV over time. If you don't clean it out after a period of time (ie every season or two) it can build up a lot. Cold weather results in the condensate freezing, and if there is a lot there it can plug the valve. Then you have a pressurized crankcase, and you get an oil leak,usually by blowing out the valve cover gasket. A cold start (ie no preheat) isn't the problem, the condensate is the problem. The condensate results more from repeated short trips, not from cold starts. Coincidentally, I am enroute to Edmonton on Friday (-35 forecast) and then Calgary on Saturday. Time to get the parka out. |
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My daily drive to the Uni, is less than 10 minutes. My engine from start to finish is only running for 15 minutes from my house to the uni, then I turn it off and go to class and it sits for varying amounts of time, before I start it up again for yet another very short drive. So what should I do? Should I deliberately take the longest route I can? Also can anyone tell me how to specifically find and clean this CCV. I had never even heard of the CCV until this thread. |
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http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-pictures.html |
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Perfect. Thanks! |
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Failing that, I wouldn't bother to take a longer route. There won't be a significant difference. To have any impact, you need to get the oil to full operating temperature, and keep it there long enough to boil off the moisture that has collected. If you go for a longer drive once a week, that would help. If you do a lot of short trips, just plan on maintaining the CCV. If it hasn't been serviced, then have it cleaned out. Check it again the following season, and if there is condensate buildup then you know you need to do it every year. If there isn't, move to a 24 month service schedule. Whether or not you do short trips, if there is no condensate in the CCV then there is nothing to freeze. |
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If you have the tools and the know-how, you can do it yourself in under 10 minutes. The hardest part is removing the two furthest Torx screws on the engine cover! |
I've come back to this thread after a couple of deep freeze cycles here in Calgary. I have no block heater of any kind installed. The X is garaged at night, but sits outside all day. At temps above 0 F (-18 C), I experience nothing different than starting on a warm day. It is when it drops below 0 F that it struggles. Well, it always fires right up, but I hear a quick ZING! sound that makes me cringe. In my mind, that sound is metal on metal due to the thick, cold oil being delayed in initial delivery to the top of the engine. Has anyone else heard the ZING?
I found a site that sells the stick on pads and am thinking of adding one for use only on the coldest days. Does anyone have a recommendation on a product from this company? Engine oil pan heaters, filter heaters & battery warmers. Designed for cars, diesel engines, more effective than block heaters, magnetic heaters. Suitable for Volkswagen vw beetle, Audi, Land Rover, Ford, Chrysler, GM, I don't know what wattage is best of the oil capacity of the 4.8. Thanks for any suggestions. Stay warm! |
i put on a oil pan heater and a battery blanket and havent had a problem here in grande prairie.well worth it...
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sorry i got it from a local company here.but check wolverine heaters or google oil pan heaters..
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I like the oil pan heaters compared to coolant heaters, as they are entirely external, with no chance of leaks. |
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Any ideas about the 'zing'? It only does it upon cold start--once I say, drive it to the store, it starts with no issues, no zing. |
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