Module isn't shutting off? help solve my battery problem
 

So my 2001 x5 has been giving me trouble, I have even replaced the battery with a new (aftermarket) one and still have the same problem.

It all started recently since I haven't been driving due to the location of my job. The car will sit for a week at a time and ends up dead. For a huge battery I can't see how 1 week will kill it. So, took it to the shop and after trial and error we feel that one of the modules is staying on after the car goes to sleep (16-20min after key is out of ignition and car is locked). The module we think is that little amber light next to the shifter that stays on constantly next to P. He did a test and the batter was still pulling something like .250 after we locked everything up and waited for the car to sleep, enough to drain the battery after a few days. I am confused and worried as to what to do next before the dealer comes into the equation.


Update: Problem Solved page 3 post #26

Don't know if '01 had it, but I recently had the telephone control module replaced in mine because it was "staying awake" and draining the battery. On my '05 it is in the left rear cargo area below the Nav & Cd changer.

Scott

Little problem like this will kill your battery quick.
Final Stage Resistor/Blower

How much did it cost to repair if you don't mind me asking?

I can't remember the quote, but it was goodwill replaced (just entered CPO warranty). I remember thinking I would rather disconnect it than pay for it. I won't be able to check the invoice for a few days.

Scott

it's probably your final stage resistor. I had a similar problem, it kept draining my battery.

You can find lots of info on it in this board.

My fan doesn't stay on after the car is asleep. And I read the P light is always on....?

some x5's shifter lights will continue to illuminate. do not use this as an indication of the vehicle awake status.

:iagree::thumbup:

Killcrap, would the best way to approach this problem be to do a draw test while pulling fuses out of the panel in the trunk? Or, is there may be a way to reset the entire car?

yes, i would start pulling fuses at the front and rear panels.

What have u installed on your vehicle such as led lights? The final stage resistor is most likely the prob.

Nothing, I don't have anything plugged in, no phone charger, dice, nothing.
My fan isn't blowing so how could the fsr be the problem?

Final stage resistor will kill the battery a lot quicker than a week. Only takes a few hours.

bump :p:

Did some research and this is from Steve at Morristown BMW

If your Shifter light is on, the car is definitely staying awake.
Your Battery will go down within days. If the light is not on
you can have a parasitic draw, while the car is in sleep mode.
The only difference, is the second draw is from a module
witch can’t wake the system (not mission critical), and it will
take a lot longer to discharge the battery.
If you want I can give you a procedure to narrow down the fault.
But you will need a good voltage meter (Fluke 83).

Steve

OK I'm having electrical demons in mine. I've got the battery replaced, alternator rebuilt, charges fine when it runs, but it seems like it dies after 3 days.

My mechanic cannot figure out, and he's tested everything and even fully charged the battery. He has also replaced the battery to make sure.

Any ideas? I would really appreciate it.

If the mechanic is not equipped to check parasitic draw and/or isn't familiar with the BMW systems and way of shutting down in stages etc. you may need to find a different/better mechanic.

In the other thread you mentioned you're driving a 4.6is... How would they be able to rebuild the alternator???? It is a water cooled alternator that has a completely sealed and non serviceable solid epoxy front. If they claim to have rebuilt the alternator I'd seriously question that as it is an impossibility.

UPDATE!

So, after hours upon hours trying to figure out why my car keeps on dying we did not solve the issue but atleast narrowed it down to where the dirty gremlin might be.

While doing a draw test, my mech started pulling fuses in the glovebox. Turns out fuse #61 is the issue, the fan module 50amp. Immediately the reading dropped from dropped from 21 to 2. So, I mentioned this forum and the Final Stage Resistor inferring that it might be related however, we are not too sure about where this fuse exactly relates! Anyways, turns out we pop the hood and unplug the FSR just to see what happens with air conditioning on full blast. Well, the fan was intermittently budging clockwise and sometimes twitching counterclockwise but that's it! We pulled that fuse out, and the auxiliary fan didn't move. So the FSR is for the fan outside. We came to the conclusion that the draw is coming from that circuit that fuse is on. Please excuse my terms, I am in no way technically inclined and am trying my best to translate to you guys about what happened. Nevertheless, I pulled out the fuse #61 and the auxillary fan modulator (the plug that allows the fan to have different speeds) before I went to bed and the P light still remains on when I checked this morning. I did that to see if it was related in anyways and it doesn't look like it. Any further input would be highly appreciated. I hope this is not a problem with the ECU...

Do you have DSP? My stupid ass mechanic took out my dsp amp becuase the battery kept dying. He said "the battery was dying so we replaced the battery. When it died again, we figured it was the amp becuase it was making a noise and the radio was crackly." No that he doesn't have the car anymore, I will check the above as well. If he got that wrong too, I can't wat to have my attorney write him a letter.

My P light stays on all the time, I don't think it is anything to worry about? If you think the FSR is bad, I would replace it.

The FSR is only for the internal blower fan that blows the air in your face... The fan under the hood could be a problem, check draw with it unplugged.

the Aux fan in front of the engine is a common culprit for parasidic draws. it also has a Final Stage Resistor built in, in which the DME sends a PWM signal to activate. The software for the DME was revised to check the AUX fan for operation when it was determined that some AUX fans were faulty without throwing the check engine lamp, There were several recalls on these fans, as most of them started a fire and total losses ensued. The DME briefly activates the Aux FAN, then turns it off, it then switches to measurment mode in which it attempts to measure the amperage generated by the moving aux fan to determine if fan activation was successful. A faulted AUX fan is known to Draw up to 2 Amps. Other failures that can cause parasidic draws are the Final Stage Resistor for the blower. The MRS control unit(usually a K-BUS is down, and you cannot communicate with the Body), The instrument cluster(gateway for BUS systems), The Ignition switch as KL15 is sometimes open circuit. The CD53 and BM53 Radio for staying on too long after Load Circuit 2 has been shut off. Good Luck.

here is posted information from BMW about the strange phenomenon of its shifter lights on e53, hope this information i have posted will help someone.

Question to Killcrap:

How much the faulty instrument cluster would draw?

Problem Solved!

Well sure enough, the Auxillary Fan was the problem and had to be replaced. With the amp meter plugged in, the original would keep it at .23 with the car asleep. When the new auxillary fan was plugged in, it immediately dropped to .02 and we left it at that (said screw it for the P light). Thank you all so much for your help especially Weasel and killcrap. Couldn't have done it w/o you.
FYI the part was $534....:confused:

For all you other people out there with the battery problems, make sure you do a draw test before you head to the dealer. Pulling the fuses in the glovebox is a good start.

Any questions feel free to pm.