Bad front Axels
 

Hey everyone

Well we've had our 2001 X5 since 2004 and I would say in 06 the axels started clicking.. To this day they are still clicking, so I know it's way past the point of just replacing the CV boot and the whole front axel will need to be replaced but I'm wondering how hard of job this is for the DIY'er and what it entails.

Has anyone ever done it or should it just be carried out by BMW?

anyone? :dunno:

at the top of page is a search function , type cv boot to find some of the diy repairs done by members . not a difficult diy but are best to get as much help and info as possible . you should find info on where to buy a complete axle , I think I remember some paying around $200 .
some other members will chime in with help

I have replaced the passenger side front myself, not a real big deal. There is some great DIY's on here. Just like amacman said I read as much about it as I could on here about it and knocked it out. Took me about 4-5 hours but that included cigarette breaks and time to walk back and forth to the fridge for another cold one. If you are a proficient DIYer it should be no problem, if not you might want to consider an INDY. I used an aftermarket axle assembly for $87. I don't have a problem using aftermarket parts on my BMW because I feel that most of the oem parts are poorly made in the first place (i.e. I have replaced many parts on my X5 that expired way before they should have, alternator, ac compressor, front axle/cv boot, window actuators, ect. only got 60K miles, wtf).

Awesome! Thank you! Yeah I want to try and save my family money and not go to the dealer and get some experience under my belt, but I want to make sure it's a job I can handle. Driving an X5 that doesn't click when turning!! I'm getting excited just thinking about it! haha

i have to replace my front right axle, this week i wanted to know when you replace the cv boot was it the inner or outer cv you replace,
Also did this fix the noise problem,

Unless you have a gazillion miles on it I would order the OEM outer CV joints from Tischer and replace them only with some new after market boots. Changing the whole exle may be worth if you have a lot of miles but I would still opt for OEM if you can afford. After market axles have been hit and miss around here as far as I can see.

BTW, yes, replacing the outer CVJ is what I did on mine.

thanks that helps a lot, also i was told after changing the control arm, and the axle the head light posting need to be adjusted, is the true and if so how is that done

Just did the axles and lower control arms both sides. Axle job was not bad at all. I would recommend using a 3/4 in impact to remove the axle nuts. I did have to order a socket for this off of e-bay. About 4$. Use caution when installing axle into transfer case so that you do not damage the seals. Hardest part to me was separating the ball joints. 3lb sledge took care of that. Good luck! On a side note.....went 25,000 between the time I noticed the boots were cracked and when I began to hear any clicking noise. Replaced them shortly after being able to hear them. And no, I did not notice any difference in the headlights and I did not adjust them.

i have over 20000km on my x and still going strong, what i wanted to know is what items i need to buy when changing the right axle assemble, ok i need the right axle, do i need the inner and outer CV boot or does that comes with the axle,,,,i have all the tools needed for the job, just need tyo know about the parts needed.

I replaced both front half shafts (CV axles) on my 2002. Fairly easy DIY job that takes about 4-6 hours. You can buy aftermarket axles, I happened to get EMPI brand through Rock Auto Parts online. They fit perfect and have been working fine for over 5000 miles. Cost for the axles, seals, and diff fluid were about $250 shipped. You'll have to replace the front diff fluid because the axles act as a part of the sealing system. Remove the axles and you'll have a bunch of fluid on the ground. I used Royal Purple 75W-90 synthetic diff fluid.

While you have the front suspension apart it might be a good time to replace ball joints, bushings, etc. I didn't do that when I replaced the axles but now I have to. I wish I would have done it all while I had it apart.

If you order axles or axle assemblies they will come complete with cv joints and boots. They also come with new axle shaft nuts. I did not lose any fluid from the transfer case and did not replace any. Maybe I should look into that. Not sure how to check the level. Help anyone?

The inboard part of the axles (where they go into the diff housing) has a seal which must be replaced. It prevents fluid from leaking out. When you take out the axles you can see inside the diff; meaning, it is open to the axle openings. I'm willing to bet your seals were bad or you didn't replace them, allowing fluid to leak out. You probably have just enough fluid left in the diff case such that it won't leak out now (below the axle line). Better check the level and either top off or refill via the drain and fill holes.

How do I check the level and how do I fill? I did not replace the seals and I was aware of it being there from replacing axles on other vehicles. I have always been cautious about these seals and have never had a problem with one(knock on wood)!

I order the axle, I'll check the seal and deft level.... I only hire that clunking noise when passing over a bump or when I shift from P-N or N-D

There are two "plugs" on the diff case. One on the bottom used for draining the diff fluid. The other on the side (driver's side) used to refill. ALWAYS remove the fill plug first. The reason is simple....if you remove the drain plug and somehow you can't get the fill plug off you're basically screwed. Drained the fluid but don't have a way to refill.

With that said, just drain the old fluid and pump new fluid into the diff fill plug opening until it just starts to leak out of the fill hole. Make sure the vehicle is level. I don't remember the exact amount but it was somewhere around 1.5 quarts.

Great. Thanks. Now I have definite plans for tomorrow morning!

^it should come with the new axel.i had my drivers side axel replaced but for some reason its shot again and its only been 2,000 miles.any ideas on why it went bad already?i dont do off road driving and i dribe really slow espically around turns.i would think that its because i did order a refurbished axel but i do order a lot of refurbished things n none of them have gone wrong except for this axel

I need some help to determine what is the problem with my 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, when I shift gear I always hear clicking noise, now when I put in "Reverse", the whole car shook and sometimes I back up ok and sometimes I have to do reverse a few times in order to backup. Does anyone have any idea what seems to be a problem? I heard some people said I have the bad axles, is it true? Please advise.

sounds like a tranny problem.i have had a similar problem and i replaced both front axels, no difference when it comes to the problem you mentioned