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i believe the oil seperator has frozen up and you probably have a decent amount of oil hitting the sparkplugs. who knows, just take the car off the road in the winter like I do...it saves headaches and the x is more fun to drive once you get it back on the road
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I hate to say this.... but no one knows a clear answer to this. Amongst other future problems that could occur... I've been very tempted to get rid of the X.
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Vacuum leaks and OSV's don't fix themselves brotha. Around 100k miles, it's time to remove the entire intake manifold, valve covers and start replacing all gaskets in between. I got my pre-VANOS intake manifold chemically cleaned and degreased last week and ready for the upgrade/swap, just waiting for the snow to disappear this spring so I can do the entire cooling and intake system rebuild.
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So James, what is the difference again between the pre-vanos and post vanos intakes? Is it bigger runners like the M50 intake on an M52?
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Exactly the same thing :) $$Dinan$$ didn't ever sell an intake manifold for the pre-VANOS motor (my 98 7 for example) so after a while we figured out that they were doing nothing more than reselling a stock BMW intake manifold. Ironically they sell ther factory intake manifold for $1200, which is still a markup over the dealerships price. I haven't 100% confirmed how it's done yet, but the pre-VANOS MAF (another popular 3 series mod) is also large than the VANOS version, and I've heard that simply swapping the sensor between the two different MAF's is the same thing as buying $$Dinan$$'s hi flow $400 aluminum version.
Your 4.6 actually already has this manifold RealOEM.com Part Cross-reference, while the 4.8 uses something completely different, so this is only for us 4.4 guys. Basically any manifold from a pre-VANOS V8 4.0-4.4 (3.5 maybe) can use this manifold on their M62TUB44 as a direct swap. EDIT - Cancel the 3.5, it's the same as the stock current version currently used on the VANOS motors RealOEM.com Part Cross-reference |
This sounds like the cam sensor to me. I had this happen a few times in the past. It would always clear by shutting the car off and starting again. I drove it like this for a few thousand miles before replacing them
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Seems to me a lot of us are encountering similar issues now that it's cold (or at least freezing or below). I, too, have had the stuttering, blinking SES, Suspension Level Inactive, and overall crappy idle or misfire. One other symptom that I have is that the battery is weak from limited usage and there's only just enough cold crank amps to start the X. I've shut the car off, waited a minute, restarted, and let it idle for a few minutes and things improved.
I have a 2004 4.4i with about 37,500 miles. The common theme I'm reading on this forum is the oil separator. I'm afraid to drive again for fear of blowing a gasket or otherwise damaging the engine. Not being able to drive is annoying especially since there's a ton of snow and temps won't reach above freezing for several days if ever. |
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Let's see how the rest of the winter goes.... |
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