Windows Regulator?
 

Hi all,

The front passenger window (RHD car) doesn't sound right and I want to fix it before the raining season arrives.

Here's what's happening:
- almost every time when I open the window from fully closed, there's a really LOUD bang noise!
- window would open / close (roll down / up) all the way, just a little slow
- when closing door with the window rolled down, it sounded like the window is very loose
- and most recently, the window rolls up really slowly, stuck half way. If I use my hand to manually pull it up a little while pulling the button, it would close.

Does this sound like a bad window regulator?

Thanks.

Anyone?

sounds like a window regulator to me

^this

Yup - not much else it could be.

Use the DIY on here to take off the door and take a look-see.

Thanks guys.

Is item no.1 from here the only thing I need to order?
Attachment 39885

I am getting the same noise but it seems as if it will work fine sometimes then it gets off track or something to cuase the bang ANYONE surely I waont be the first to tear it down and find a fix...

You need this kit how to repair window regulator. on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Thanks.

The video seems to have been cut of at the end. Is this just fixing the broken Windows Regulator by using a couple of cooper wire (instead of replacing the whole regulator)? or it's a proper part number that can be ordered?

Hi guys,

I took the door panel down and noticed it's the black plastic part of the regulator that is loosen / stuck. So I'm going to try out MrBMWX5's cooper wire trick.

But just in case, is this plastic part a replaceable part? or I will have to buy the whole regular (part no.1 here) even if the motor is still working fine?

Thanks.

Here's the DIY from the homepage and it has links for similar DIYs at the bottom.

http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...nt-bmw-x5.html

Not sure if you can get just that piece but hopefully if you have to get a kit try and get one with that piece in metal instead of plastic - if its available that is.

Thanks TwinsPoppa.

That's the DIY link I followed ;-) Extremely helpful!!!

Will see what I can get from the local store here tomorrow. Am hoping not having to get the whole regular, which cost over US$100 according to other posts :dunno:

The drivers windows on both of my x5's are making the loud snapping noise as well. I have been tossing back and forth on replacing the window regulator as well. Some times they make the noise and other times they dont. I figure one day it will eventually fail but I think I will open the door panel up and have a look and decide if I can do the copper wire solution or just replace the window regulator. It seems like the loud snapping noise is a tell tale that the window regulator is failing.

The window regulator fail when the cable reel or carrier clips are broken.Window motor
mostly doesn't fail.
It is better and cheaper to use my DIY now instead of waiting for it completely fail.

I decided to get a brand new regulator since it was exactly half price from the original (about US$83 instead of US$170).

The installation of the new regulator went pretty straight forward, and this is what had been broken:
Attachment 40287

and this is from the new regulator (white plastic instead of black):
Attachment 40288

This is the regulator for the Left-front door, and has 2 of these clips. I also suspect that the non-broken clip should be identical to the "flip" side for the right-front door, which is good because I also suspect that one is broken too since it's showing the exact symptoms. So I'm going to give the other door a go one this side is done.

The only problem now is that the plastic clips holding the window to the regulator (part 7 here) are also broken, which explains the big BANG noise when the windows slides in/out of place while it goes up and down, so I'm going to have to order the clips tomorrow.

FIXED!!!
 

Got the clips and all is good. Windows is held firmly and now open and close without any problem!

Since this was the first window regulator job for me, I had not idea what the clip looks like originally. So I was trying to get the windows hold without any success and then realized it must have been broken.

Here's the broken clip on the right:
Attachment 40330

and the new one on the left:
Attachment 40329

Also, I looks like the reason for these parts to fail so frequently, might have to do with slamming the door closed while the window is at full open. When the window is at down position, the carrier clips vibrates further distance when the door is being closed, causing the plastic part of the clips to break.

As always, thanks for the great help from this forum!

I think this is the exact repair i need to do to my front left drivers window. Where did you get the regulator and clips from. Was the install pretty easy?? What was the process?? Thanks

I got the parts from a local store. The installation was not too difficult, I just followed the great write up from here. An extra pair of hands would be helpful when securing the window to the clips, because the window is pretty heavy and it needs to be lifted when placing the clips and screws.

You might also want to try mrbmwx5's cooper wire trick first before buying the actual regulator.

Good luck. I'll do the right / driver side next!

I love this place! I have this same issue and will be finally fixing it today!

Copper wire does the trick. No need to spend 110 on the whole replacement.

i think i have the same problem. when the window is halfway down, does it rattle?

anyone have the window regulator part #?

I have the same problem where a clip broke on my passenger side window. Does anyone know the part number for this clip? Thanks.

No.7 here.

If it rattles and especially when the door is being closed, most likely you have the same problem.

Which window / door? I found the part# here.

Good luck.

If the regulator is shot, will the window move at all when pressing the switch? My wife rolled down the passenger side front window and when we went to put it back up, it wouldn't move very far. Say a quarter to half inch tops. Basically, it does not come out of the door more than flush. Not even enough to grab the glass and pull it up, but it does move a little.

I also noticed that when I try to roll it up, the exterior door handle moves outward a little. Also, keep in mind that the last time we rolled down the window, I didn't hear any strange noises and up to that point the window had been operating perfect without any issues.

Just ran across this thread. Looks like it may be my door carrier in my case.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...snt-go-up.html

unfortunately the glass is secured to the regulator with this piece of plastic.

http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/...lator-good.jpg

once it snaps and if you keep pushing the window button, the jerking can cause the glass to dislodge from the window regulator. once the glass is dislodged, it can get caught internally which may explain the door handle movement. bad choice of material. it should be made of something more robust than plastic.

it is better to avoid pushing the window button as this can cause the wirerope to jump groove and ruin the entire regulator. further the motor gear may also get worn off by the wirerope. otherwise, replacing just this piece of plastic that holds the glass to the regulator is cheap and a straightforward diy. even replacing the regulator is quite straightforward. however, the motor will be costly.

good luck.

Thanks. Hopefully, I will get a chance to pull off the door panel today and see what is going on. I read the DIY and it doesn't necessarily look that hard, but it looks like one of those jobs that can be a pain in the ass with all the clips and plastic bits if you know what I mean.

I DIY'd it myself, so yes, it's not that hard. But it would certainly be very helpful if you can get another person to help while you try to get the window in the right position, it's pretty heavy.

Also, if you have the airbag, you would have to disconnect it... and that causes the airbag warning light. You'll have to somehow get it reset.

Good luck.

I thought the DIY said you can leave the air bag connected or disconnect the battery before removing the air bag to avoid this?

If you disconnect the battery, you won't be able to roll up/down the window when installing the regulator.

Started to remove the door panel, but have a question.

I have removed all screws, lights, switches, trim, etc on the door. Most of the clips let go fairly easy on the panel itself. However, it feel like something is keeping the door panel from letting go up top, where you would rest your arm when driving. Am I missing something? What is the best way to beak the panel loose from this area without doing damage?

Pull the top part toward you. It is held in place by a series of clips near the window gasket. Once you pull, some of those clips should release allowing you to remove it.

Thank you. I printed out the DIY and those clips were not easily visible on my black and white printout. I went back and looked at the DIY online and saw the clips in UCrew's photos just after you posted.

Well, I think I am going to my indy for this. I removed all clips and screws and still can't get the panel off. I used UCrew's DIY and watched the BSW X5 door removal videos on Youtube. I am following both instructions to a T and something is still stopping the door from popping off. The area in particular that seems to be sticking is the area around the interior door handle and grab handle on the door panel.

Has anyone heard of something breaking or shifting out of place that makes removal of the panel harder than usual? I have tried everything. Pulling straight towards me, lifting up, pushing down, shaking side to side and nothing works. I was pulling fairly hard as well and still no go.

There is a Torx screw behind that grab handle. I think it's a T-30?

If I recall correct you tilt the bottom of door panel slightly toward you then lift upwards .
it`s the way it hooks over the door skin I think .

I have removed 4 Torx screws. The one on the bottom door pocket, the one behind the ABS cover, the one under the wood trim and the one next to the interior door handle.

There is another one behind the grab bar? If so, how do I access that one?

I have the manual in front of me
remove the coloured trim at top of panel there is a screw just aft of the pull handle also a screw behind the plastic cover which says airbag
nothing on armrest needs removed

you have them all , manual says lift panel to release center mount clip .

give me 5 minutes to take photos

I removed the 4 Torx screws circled in yellow. It sounds like what is giving me a hard time is what I have circled in red. Does that sound correct?

If so, I have lifted up on the panel as you suggested and have tugged pretty damn hard a dozen times and nothing gives. How hard should I have to pull? I feel like I am going to break something.

camera is bad
pic 1 shows 3 screws
pic 2 shows clip location
pic 3 shows direction to lift panel
pic 4 shows bowden cable . it unclips easy
remember speaker cable and puddle light under door

do not pull . lift panel up as pic 3
pics usaully take 5 mins but the attachment thingy could not locate so I had to copy to file to upload

the arm rest locates into the bracket you highlighted in red . no screws holding it
just lift the door panel .might be tight and require a wiggle .

I just recalled the small light for door handle requires delicate handling whilst you disconnect the bowden cable .

amacman, thank you so much for your help. You were right. I lifted harder and the panel came off. I think mine was on extra tight or something (maybe due to me pulling out too hard initially), but the black clip that attaches to the panel actually stayed on the metal piece that I highlighted in red. That was what was making removal of the panel so tough. Here is a photo. Maybe it is actually supposed to stay on there, but either way, mine was a bear to pull off. I thought for sure I was going to break something.

haha i had quite a bit of a struggle trying to lift up the panel too. same anxiety about breaking something. i think this is the toughest bit.

I think the plastic part stays where it is . maybe the part on door panel slides over it .
I removed my panels 2 years ago to stop leaks and gave up at the same stage where you had trouble until I got it figured out .
once I knew the procedure the panel removed easy .

It would be a lot easier to take this piece off and re-attach it to the door panel. This will save you greif when trying to put it back together, just make sure the middle of the hole gets through the metal piece attached to the door on install.

Just completed my right rear window regulator replacement, thanks to the fine posts regarding this subject. First attempt on any DIY project with my X. Felt pretty good about my accomplishment, but when my son commented that I was awesome, that took the cake! Again, thanks to everyone for their contributions to this site...

I bought two new clips that Rockmelon referred to in post 27. I am in the process of attaching the new regulator to the glass and have a question. These clips hold the nut for the bolt that attaches the regulator to the glass. How hard re these supposed to be tightened down? I don't want to break them, but I want them to stay put. Are you supposed to tighten just until the back of the clip starts to spread on apart from the nut or what?

I remember I had mine tighten pretty hard. The clip needs spread out far and hard enough to hold the glass.

i just tightened it to the extent when i think it wont get loosened by the window operations and yet not so tight until i think it may break the plastic piece. i could feel it open up which is essential for it to hold the glass in place.

Thanks guys. I have broken so many damn plastic trim pieces like this I am completely paranoid.

By the way, my advice to add on this DIY is just to go ahead and get two new clips. The original ones were pretty brittle and one broke just trying to remove it. I also went ahead and got about 5 door clips. 4 of which came in very handy as a few broke when removing the door.