100k and beyond, the planned & forced maintenance adventure. (OEM parts lists inside)
 

Getting ready to do some major preventative maintenance work. The attached spreadsheet that I am using covers parts included in:

VANOS
timing chain tensioning
liftgate noises
valve cover oil leaks
spark plugs
O2 sensors
power steering system
coolant system
oil separator system
a/c system
suspension
driveline

and more. Heck, there's a TON of 4.6iS and some compatible 4.4 info in there.

If it helps you out, great. :)

edit: and if you're interested in how my DIY 100k service went, scroll down for info and pics.

Good info - thanks for sharing.

Curious why you are doing something on the chain tensioners. Are they making noise?

You're not too far from building a whole 2nd car.

I haven't even reached 65K and I'm not too far from building a whole 2nd car.

There's a fine line between preventative maintenance and "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

I'm less than 900 miles away from the big 100K....seems like EVERYTHING is finally showing its age. Cant complain too much since its been good to me for the most part. But this will be the right up there in cost with my inspection II total cost. I can only imagine what the dealer would kill me for out here in my area...Considering the lady at the parts counter wanted to charge me $23.68 for a replacement drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. :thumbdown

Bumping thread, as I replaced the attached file with the most updated version. Sorry to reply so late to you guys, I forgot about this thread. Better late than never!

As I was already replacing the vanos parts and cover gaskets I figure while I was in there, the old plastic parts in the timing system could be replaced.

Purchased at $27K and about ~$10K into it with refreshing and add-on parts. Thankfully the first owner took the hit on the pricey add-ons.

I agree, although my rationale with this refresh was that there is a ton of overlapping labor.

Yikes... I think that the dealer's labor bill would at least double my costs. 99% of parts were sourced from Tischer BMW as they have the best pricing that I've found so far.

Here are some pictures if anyone is interested!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...MWservice1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...MWservice2.jpg

Magnesium valve covers needed a powdercoat of primer, before the metallic silver and clear was applied. Non primered magnesium doesn't hold coatings well I hear. The undersides of the valve covers were blasted to bare magnesium and left that way. The sealing surface was decked and sanded to a more level/finer finish.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/5e64fcac.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/97e579f6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...MWservice3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...MWservice4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/e4dc0e81.jpg

Thanks Vortech / FedEx for smashing my pulley..... there goes another $65.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/fa7e5980.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/9f53434d.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/76bf0c8a.jpg

Here's a link to a short video of a test-fire without maf/hoses/vac lines/egr/etc to check a few things.

It sounds like a bass-boat without the egr pipes installed. :p

BMW X5 :: timingchecktestfire.mp4 video by jrbelknap - Photobucket

It runs.

All good for the first 24 hours. Dry as a bone underneath the truck. Had an issue with the first "hot start" the next day, when I turned the key, it immediately threw a MAF and a TPS code and went into engine failsafe mode. I cleared the codes with a Matco MD9001 Quickscan tool. Turned the key again and all was back to normal. Thinking I had some slight MAF cleaner film burning off of the MAF as it was the first time it got heatsoaked after the build. Maybe one of the pros here could speculate on why that happened?

Anyhow, I updated my spreadsheet (in the first post) again for you guys, I hope it helps to have an example of what exactly was replaced at 100K on an E53, (at least, in my instance). It was nice to just be able to CLEAN everything while it was apart. Don't ask me how many rolls of shop towels or bottles of degreaser/brake cleaner I went through. 20+ easily. Thanks stupid old leaking S/C oil drain hose.

I haven't put the truck under heavy load yet. It had half a tank of 5 month old gas, I added a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner and topped of the tank with fresh 93. After I burn through this tank, I'm going to follow the Dinan "black box" tweaking procedure to verify a certain airflow voltage level, just to be safe. Dinan says upgrading to the Vortech Si-Trim impeller (Much more efficient operation, and 12% more air) doesn't require additional fueling.

Differences between the S-trim and Si-Trim supercharger impeller wheel can be found in this thread: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...e-good-go.html

Initial impressions under light load.... this thing seems to require absolutely NO throttle to get up to the speed of highway traffic. VERY responsive. The effects of fresh plugs/O2's/blower shaft bearing/impeller & etc. is making itself known. The truck WANTS to FLY. I can only imagine, but I have to finish burning through this gas first. I'm thinking this impeller blade might not make a ton more peak power, but it makes a BIT more under the curve.

I might be bench racing, but I'm thinking that as it sits now, it should (slowly) nudge out a X5/6 50i in straight line acceleration. I'll still be a small spot in the rearview of an X5M and X6M though. Someone is always faster. :)

DynoJet 424xLC numbers to come soon..........

but for now.... happy pics! 100k service/refresh/restore, done.

Time to CLEAN!!! The cars are like, "sup bro, long time no see".

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/05b668b4.jpg

Engine: I know, the replacement Dinan vac hose is blue. But, (and more importantly) it's rated for oil/fuel/anything. Heavy duty stuff I sourced from Norfolk, VA's industrial section of town. (I'm not really one for car shows anyhow, haha)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/977b58ff.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/7fa152c5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/751e37da.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/e2f8d883.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/ce96bda0.jpg

All tucked away in it's home again. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/87a36afa.jpg

P.S. - one of my really tough points was installing the new S/C belt. Here's a quote from one of my e-mail conversations with an engineer at Dinan.



After this conversation, I ordered a belt from Dinan. It was TIGHT. You have to follow their installation instructions EXACTLY. The belt will not go on any other way. If anyone wants me to e-mail them a .pdf of the install directions, just let me know where to send them. Reference step # 179 on page 28.

Then, on the first start, the belt will look like it wants to ride right off of the front of the tensioner pulley (the tensioner pulley is crowned, and designed with torque deflection in mind). After the belt gets it's initial stretch, it will ride normal on the tensioner pulley. In the meantime, don't drive under high load/rpms, as it could fling the brand new belt right off.

Burned the 24.6gal tank of half old fuel, half new fuel, and the splash of Techron. And with a mix of 75% city / 25% highway driving (at light-mid load/rpm) it only took 267 miles. Take that, Prius drivers!! What little mpg I *might* have gained in the refresh (plugs/O2's), I must have lost in the larger mass of the 10.5" wheels and 315mm tires in the front. City driving with a lead foot will have this thing in single digit gas mileage land.

Full tank of fresh gas. Now I have to sit and wait out the huge rainstorm that is about to hit Virginia Beach. Saturday when the roads are dry I have to make a few third gear pulls as per the tuning section of the Dinan manual. (That section is attached as a .pdf to this post if anyone should need it in the future.)

If it's all kosher after the pulls, I'll head to the DynoJet 424xLC, unplug the brake fluid level sensor, and spin the rollers around for a little bit. I'm more curious about the WBO2 reading than I am the power. (crap, just remembered I still have to weld a bung before a cat converter for the test.)

p.s. - about running 315's all around. If you're considering it, be less aggressive in the rain, it will begin to hydroplane sooner.

heh - it's pretty bad in the rain even with the stock 275/315 staggered set-up at least with yoko advan tires. Although I pretty much run snows all winter anyway so I'm always ready for a last minute ski trip when the schedule clears and the snow dumps.

thanks
 

Good

Man I'm *almost* wishing I had snow's for this week. Va Beach hasn't gotten blasted with a snowstorm this heavy in a decade!

Glad it helped. :)

So I'm updating this because I wanted to talk about what happened with the dyno. I wanted to know if there was more area under the curve with the new impeller blade, and I really wanted to know what the deal was with fueling.

So, pre-cat bung holes/plugs were fitted for WBO2 sensors to monitor during the pull on the Dynojet 424xLC^2

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/93ccd60f.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/519d442a.jpg

All good right? Well, no, unfortunately. I was misunderstood. I thought that the 424xLC^2 could load up the rollers independently, (due to the F/R torque split) but they can't. Couldn't get a same speed lock at very low speed so we abandoned the dyno before one pull was made. Oh well.

We need this for the dyno:

Dynamometer Model 424Linx

My buddy (the shop owner) isn't just going to drop a fair amount of coin instantly because I want him too, (I asked though, haha) but he may get it in the future.

That leaves me with road testing. So I need to purchase a PLX DM-100 OBD II display unit and two PLX wideband O2 units

The goal is to get a read on the fueling, see if additional fueling is needed before any other change, see how close I am to running out of pump or injector, and then if I have fuel on the table to play with, to see if those cat converters could be made to "flow better". I think there are V.E. gains to be had there.

FWIW, apparently the pump is an E39 M5 unit, and the injectors are a Delphi product, still researching on what size they are exactly.

:thumbup:Dude, intense and exceptionally good post. Thanks.

I saw on your list that you replaced a few items on the rear hatch. What kind of symptoms were you having and did this fix it? I have a slight knock from the tailgate at low speed starts and stops.

Hi tkasser,

For the lower tailgate, I aligned the outer catches on the body further towards the front. Then, for the upper liftgate replaced the rubber bumpstops on the body with newer spring loaded type, and replaced the upper liftgate pistons.

#6 and #35 in this diagram

RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.6is TRUNK LID/REAR WINDOW

Every once in a while coming into the driveway at angle, I still hear a slight noise from flex, but that might be because I got sensitized to the noise. That's the only time I ever hear it though. I'm satisfied with the changes made.

No worries! If it weren't for the OG's here to pave the way, I wouldn't have had the resources to guide me along. I have to thank those guys for that. So hopefully this helps to pay it forward, good karma and all that. :)

J.B.

I am contemplating doing the chain guides but some threads seem to say it is better to do the upper and lower oil pans to avoid oil leakage. This is significantly more involved. You seem to have done only the guides and the vanos.

Any oil leaks on yours?

Fixing that water temp gauge.
 

Going to be a long night... COFFEE TIME



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...I/65421b5f.jpg


More to follow as PLX DM-100 ODB II install goes along.

Before we begin, I would like to thank Erol, a fellow BMW owner from Switzerland. His very professional work fitting the PLX DM-100 OBD II into the M5 was my vision for this install. I must also give him credit for scanning the OEM water temperature gauge, resizing it, and creating 100 images of the gauge with the needle moving throughout the temperature range. Erol and PLX devices were generous enough to share the gauge file with me, I appreciate the generosity.

Setup

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...I/2cbe66ec.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...I/088b7891.jpg

A smoke and another cup of joe and then the IKE gets a transplant.

edit: spent more time than I thought I would researching warning settings that should work for me. I'll get busy with the nuts and bolts of the install after some shuteye. IKE can sleep well for tonight.

I don't think that I've ever dremeled that close to a pcb before.

IKE is looking *rough* right now. But I'm ok with how things are progressing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant7.jpg

Nothing that a can of compressed air can't fix. Display seems centered up when I hold the frame over the cluster, so that's a big hurdle passed. Now I need to remove the PLX bezel without sending the guts flying about.

Taking a break and having a drink to uh... steady the hands ;)

J,
For someone whose idea of 'intricate close-up work' is reading the paper without my glasses, or fiddling with photos on my laptop, I am impressed.

This is like watching micro surgery...and, I don't quite get the reason for the work, but it is impressive. :thumbup: Good pics, by the way.
GL, mD

Hi mD! Thanks for the vote of confidence... keeping fingers crossed that I haven't made any expensive mistakes.

Rationale is ability to view ECU data and PLX Sensor Module (WBO2, Boost, EGT, etc) data at the same time. The default screen I have set to display an OEM appearing water temp gauge, that functions properly. With this heat wave we're having, I really want to keep an eye on temps. It can scan and clear OBD codes as well. Perhaps the PLX Devices website can explain it better.

Making headway on what I hope is the hardest part of the install. Gotta break a few eggs to make an omelet. ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant9.jpg

Cleaning up, dressing things in, cable strain relief, and etc. Going to cover the hole in the side, but wanted to show what cutting is needed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ansplant10.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ansplant11.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ansplant12.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ansplant13.jpg

Houston, we have liftoff.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ansplant14.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ansplant15.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ansplant16.jpg

Just have to dress in the truck-side wiring and we're good to go. Wanted to do a quick op-test though. Pleased with the turnout!

Wow! You are a man with many talents:thumbup:

very impressive...congrats:thumbup:

Thanks guys... blind luck and beer might have had a part in it. :p

was stuck for a minute on securing the gauge from turning or shaking within the cluster. Had a smoke and a drink and as I was playing with the PLX bezel, flipped it upside down and strung it back up the gauge's RS-232 cable. Slammed that on the cluster and it sat in there like a champ. Little plastic tack-welds on the PLX bezel for insurance. Idea in the head was have it secure, but serviceable.

....tempted to pull the trigger on two wideband jammies, a boost/vacuum thingamabob, and an oil pressure dohicky. Toss them all in the glovebox in a sort-of horizontal mini rack-mount deal and call it a day. Been kinda curious about fueling mixture for some time now.

Tri,

What's up man! Apologies for the late reply, I messed the thread update. Have not touched the pans, no leaks, knock on wood. *knocks fist on head*

edit: I take that back, I do have a leak. You might as well not call it that as it is VERY, VERY slight, coming from the rear main. When/if trans time comes, I'll tackle that. Not too concerned, as it's not even spotting the driveway, but I noticed it while under the truck. Haven't heard much about the pan seals leaking though. Are they high fail or known to go at x mileage?

edit2: hmm... maybe it's the pan leaking at a point near the rear of the motor, and not rear main? Damn.... time to go under the truck for another look.

At Bimmerfest this past weekend I was chatting with the VAC Motorsports crew, and one of the guys was stressing the importance of keeping the front driveshaft lubed (splines where it comes out of the transfer case.) So, that's what I'll be up to here soon. Also replacing both ping sensors, and the PCV valve (Dinan kit uses one from a 318ti, weird) Might inspect rear subframe bushings as well. No driveline thunks to speak of, but, I've never checked them out, and have been meaning to. Would appreciate pictures of pan gaskets R/R if you go that route sir!

Since last update, replaced the Brembo friction rings in the front, pads all around, and flushed brake fluid. Oil change every 5k.

On a separate note, got a code for clutch solenoid or torque converter.

I guess I won't powerbrake it away from a stoplight for a while. Hearing the steamrollers chirp off the line gives me a warm fuzzy though. :)

I wish killcrap & other O.G.'s would get in on this discussion: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-thoughts.html I sent him a message. :( I know, just get an X5M and dump the dinosaur, but I know if I could get a 5HP30 at home in there, I'd be able to turn up the power a notch or three.

Currently at 125k, (123k with S/C), and all things considered (imho) the truck is working great.

I am impressed.:thumbup:....tempted to pull the trigger on...;)

J.B.

No problem, I just did the trans refurb and the V-pan, it is now too hot out to do major work on the car. I needed a brake from the wrenching and see it run before moving on and doing the chain guides.

Also, my Tundra needed a 100k service before taking it to SC, it is done but I still need to replace the timing belt on it as well....and my 4.8 needs a new LF airbag.....

By now I have seen enough of the chain guide replacement to know that it can get very involved taking off the bottom end of the engine and if I can get away leaving it on and only doing the guides/vanos, then I will do that. A lot depends on the wear of the chains though. If they need replacing it seems the bottom end will come off, I'll see when I get in there.

In the mean time September and October are bulging with work at the office....I guess I'll take it one day at a time. Love your gauge mod! Very crafty.

I like your idea of keeping it hidden. Here is the A/F meter in my E39 I did a few years ago.

http://www.my02.com/images/af/af4.jpg

http://www.my02.com/images/af/af1.jpg

I hear ya man, one day at a time for sure. Couple questions for you sir.

- How was the airbag determined bad?
- Are the oiled chains a wear item? (Plastic guides are weaker, should wear first/most?)

Thanks on the gauge thing, definitely glad to be getting a more accurate read on water & stuff. :)

Actually, I've been looking into that (my trans was replaced at 53k, but the worry is always in the back of my mind), and Level Ten Transmissions in NJ, which is known for mainly building racing transmissions (Ford 4R100s and any GM trans you can think of) does do the 5HP24 and 30. I'll be taking my truck there if it needs it.

What's up PS! Level Ten sure has been around a while! Heard both good and bad over the years. I just have to wonder whats in the secret recipe to their "built" 5HP24 trans.

Regarding the TC itself, I'll likely go with Precision of New Hampton, but the problem of sourcing a tougher trans still keeps me stumped. Really, I just need to shoot some more e-mails out here and there...

Hi guys, been away from the forum a bit. Work has been absolutely insane for what seems like a while.

Random update for whoever gives a crap. X5 and I achieved flight at the crest of a sharply ascending onramp. Was at top of RPM range and when the wheels lifted off the ground, the inertia spun the engine up past the usual 7.2k-7.3k limit. I let off before we came in for a landing, and limped it home. Results from my idiocy:

- cylinder 5 tested at 140psi, cylinder 6 tested at 160psi, all other cylinders tested at 185-190psi.
- piston height on 5 and 6 matches other cylinders
- leakdown on 5 and 6 observed at tailpipe
- with heads removed, alcohol did not flow from the intake ports past the intake valves
- with heads removed, alcohol did flow from the exhaust ports past the exhaust valves on 5, 6, 2, and 3.
- no apparent valve damage, could not view seat
- some valve guides show wear, on the portion that could be viewed
- no burn marks on cylinder walls
- no contact was made from any valve to any piston
- piston crown appears normal, unable to view ring lands
- all cams and their cam bolts spun about the cam gears. Roughly 15 degrees on 1-4, and 10 degrees on 5-8.
- no apparent catastrophic failure

She just wasn't meant to fly. :( So, heads are off to VAC for a Stage I deal. The option of stock size S/S intake & Inconel exhaust valves was added. A new OEM oil pump is being sent up there as well for VAC's oil pump "fix".

Meanwhile, I'm bored, and not about to dig in to my other project / garage ornament. That can wait until the X5 is back online.

When I get bored I end up buying crap that I really don't need. In example:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...st1resized.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...st2resized.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...st3resized.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...st4resized.jpg

Poor Tubi, the tips are going to be hacked off and replaced with the stock 4.6iS tips.

Can't just leave well enough alone...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ic1resized.jpg

Dr. Gas X-pipe (2.25in/2.50out) & Magnaflow 14379 (2.50 DIDO no-x). I have no idea how this will sound, and very likely will revert back to stock. But if.... IF at full load it sounds like I just ran over a Ferrari and am now dragging it along underneath, well... I might deal with the noise for a bit.

TL;DR - It might get loud.

I'll post some pics of the not pretty stuff tomorrow.

Nice to see you back. Where have you been anyways?

Damn. I've had it airborne a couple of times. Always let got off the throttle though. Now I know that I should not do this anymore.

Car looks great. Can wait to see more pics.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...oldremoval.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...lePlateOil.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...PCVfailure.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...M62Valley2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ders1-45-8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...X5/Runner1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...X5/Runner2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...X5/Runner3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...X5/Runner4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...X5/Runner5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...X5/Runner6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...X5/Runner7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...X5/Runner8.jpg

During the split-second overrev, the PCV valve failed in a catastrophic manner. Still, limping under light load got me to the house, which was a mile away. During the short limp home, the DME did not put engine into failsafe mode. Check engine came on but never flashed. As I pulled into the driveway, the OBC went "ding" and reported that the X5 was a quart down on oil. There's probably still a good half quart in the cats.

Picture of plugs arranged as in engine

4-8
3-7
2-6
1-5

Pictures of intake ports are shown in order by cylinder number, 1-8

Majority of the stuff out of the way.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...M62Valley3.jpg

Digging deeper.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...M62Valley4.jpg

Left (Driver's) head, valve cover off. Note the intake to exhaust cam mis-alignment.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../Lefthead1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../LeftHead2.jpg

Right (Passenger's) head, valve cover off. Note a more severe intake to exhaust cam mis-alignment.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...RightHead1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...RightHead2.jpg

Still, the valves never made friends with the pistons. I imagine a few exhaust valves are mushroomed at the seat, however.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../M62Heads1.jpg

No matter, off they go to BMW heaven aka VAC Motorsports.

Piston crowns and rod height looks good. No burn marks on cylinder walls. Unsure of the ring lands, and I don't even want to think about getting into a bearing refresh, as much as it lurks in the back of my head.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../M62Block2.jpg

Still, I do have to swap out the old oil pump for a new OEM unit that's currently being worked over by VAC Motorsports. Bought an engine hoist for that job. Requires removing driveline, lowering subframe, and other crap. It's going to be fuuuuunnnnnnn. :confused:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../M62Block1.jpg

But it has to be done.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...2012_03_21.jpg

Waiting on VAC Oil Pump and VAC Stage I heads w/ Stainless Steel intake valves and Inconel exhaust valves.

It's pretty much uphill from here.

What's up James! Sorry 'bout the drunken rant in your Dynavin thread earlier. Hada beer or five tonight, which is crazy considering an average of a 12-pack per year. Forgot I had to post a few pics before heading off to hangover-land.

Been workin' man. Here, there, Russia, etc. No internets out in the field. Was real busy for a while, time to chill for a bit stateside. Hope stuff's been going good for ya and all.

Just look to confirm engine speed is low right before takeoff, and you *should be good.






*kidding!!! The risk is just not worth how insanely awesome it is to send your BMW SUV into flight!

Man what an epic teardown. How much is all this costing you?

Yea after seeing the damage, I am not messing with flight anymore. A bit scary really.

Slick, my bad on the lag. I will have your answer tonight though. late. maybe early morning, haha. :p

I'm about ready to make the OEM parts order (which comprises I'm guessing 33% of the bill but 90% of the parts) The VAC Motorsports heads and new OEM/VAC oil pump is sucking most of the money out of this self-induced headache.

Oh! Speaking of VAC, I gave them everything on this page, new. You know, so they could do their oil pump fix happy feel good thing. Well, I got a call back and was told that the 4.6iS oil pumps are internally different than the 4.4, and they're considering options, and..... I'll get a call back. Fine by me I guess.

I also kind of want to revamp that .pdf at the beginning of the thread. More user friendly. Going to have dinner, then I'll fire up excel and start tallying things up. In the meantime, here's some pics of the latest mucking about in the garage and-not-so-much progress....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...tempneedle.jpg

^ Remember this dumb thing? ^

Forgot to post a few pics from that install. (I really just need to nicely ask Michelle to merge that thread into this one.) Here's the rest.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ansplant19.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...splant20-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...splant20-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ansplant27.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ansplant28.jpg

So that comprises the PLX DM-100 baseline setup.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...lymaysMOAR.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../PLXaddon1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../PLXaddon3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../PLXaddon7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../PLXaddon9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...PLXaddon10.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...PLXaddon12.jpg

Have to run a wire or two, but you get the idea. PLX really should make a box dedicated as a fused power strip. Would tidy the install up a lot.

Whenever I get the VAC oil pump back, I'll have to raise the truck up, hold the block, and drop the front driveline to pull the upper oil sump and old oil pump. So I bought an engine hoist.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...gineHoist1.jpg

I've been real lazy while waiting on parts and the garage somehow got messy. Embarrassing really. But whatever. Let's build an engine hoist and then figure out where the hell to put it, haha.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...gineHoist3.jpg

Achievement unlocked!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...gineHoist5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...gineHoist4.jpg

With the hoist out of the way, did a little tidying up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hoistpano2.png

A wild roll of adhesive thermal foil appears!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...blingblang.jpg

Going to bling the X5 out, I'll get into that later...

Ok, dinner then OEM parts list MS Excel fun time.

Finally you're back. I was getting worried you gave up. I have same host by the way.

man I'm waaay too dumb/stubborn to throw in the towel on stuff. Downside is the wife bitches that I should have got a "real" plumber, a "real" electrician, and etc... haha

Got the books out now, doing the homework. ;)





Morning after edit: the list of little piddly OEM stuff is waaaay bigger than I thought it would be. Knew I'd trash lots of gaskets from the PCV valve / oil ingestion failure, and quite a few more doing the oil pump R/R, but anyhow it's whatever, the job will get done. Still working on it, will post it tonight for your guy's review's & critiques & such.

Thanks for the thread merge/title change admins!

Slick & anyone else interested....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Mpartslist.png

Here's the OEM parts list for the 130k airborne overrev event repair. Pretty much all of the stuff needed to slam the engine back together when the heads and oil pump arrive from VAC Motorsports. It's not all-inclusive, as I've already done VANOS, timing guides, and etc. But when paired with the original 100k maintenance list in the first post, 99% of the motor will have been covered. Of the 1% that did not get touched, the rotating assembly is the primary thing on my mind, anything else is not terribly concerning (to me).

This also includes some unrelated line items as notes of some overlapping work (air conditioning / custom exhaust / rod bearings) that might get added to the total cost estimate. I left those costs off the total to easier share what is absolutely needed.

Later this week I'll neatly merge this 130k repair list with the 100k maint list as a tabbed excel file, host it somewhere,for download. Should make for better ease of reference for myself and maybe others. FWIW.

- Jay

Holy crap. That is a massive list. I bet that price will come down significantly when you place the order. I know that ECS will beat most of those prices. They seem to be very competitive with it. It might take a couple of weeks for them to get the whole thing ready, but still the price should be lower. Let us know what it comes out to after you purchase it all.

I see you have some parts on there that you might not even use or buy, so I'm sure it will be even less.

You said you will likely use the thicker head gasket. You plan to lower compression, and up the boost? Maybe see you if you can find concave pistons while you are at it.

Yup, the RealOEM prices are a little high to what deals are out there. Not replacing the M5 fuel pump, crank damper, and engine mounts would knock $1k (30%) off the list, but they are due for freshening, imho. (Especially the crankshaft damper)

The thicker headgaskets thing depends on if VAC Motorsports decked the heads. (Either way, I'll go with their recommendation).

The alusil coating on the cylinder sleeves / MAHLE pistons makes going to forged pistons (4032 alloy from Wossner-Kolben?) and rings (barrel shaped face?) challenging considering fitting direct replacement parts can be tricky. I don't know man. :/ Need to do a lot more research on that, when/if the time comes. Right now I don't want to go there. Really, I hope to never get to the point where forged pistons are necessary, the bigger bore clearance / oil control / cold start noise & wear seems a disadvantage to the goal of a high-mileage street engine. With what I know now, I'd likely beg and plead for BMWNA to sell me an assembled bottom end. Someone please correct me if I'm mistaken on that line of thinking...

I agree with you. It is a more logical approach. I just figured you wete going with thicker gasket for a power increase. I doubt they will deck much if anything. Your car didn't overheat. But there was love in there, so I dont know. Deff go with recommendation from them.

Something wasn't sitting right with me about the headgasket thing, so late last night it gave me another excuse to re-read Mr. Bell's excellent book, "Maximum Boost". If you don't have it, highly recommend a trip to the bookstore to pick it up. If you do, refer to pg.157 where piston/head squish volume is discussed.

So instead of staying awake thinking about that, I began thinking about a heat shield for the A/C compressor and also design for lower intake temps (knock threshold) without sacrificing too much cfm.

Funny. I stayed awake last night trying to overcome the frustration with two studs bowed inward @14". A chisel was the solution!

Now I can sleep better knowing that my daughter's ever-taller friends have one more layer of protection from their own curiosity.

I found it really cool. I thought it was a scam at first. Hope karma pays it forward and they drop you a set of pistons.

Great thread! Good luck with the X!

Man it was really no sacrifice here... I guess my karma thing is content. :)

Thanks bud! Hope it's useful in some way, and if not... that it passes your time at work. :p

So the heads are back from VAC Motorsports!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...gHeads5VAC.png

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hamber2VAC.png

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...etrain2VAC.png

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hamber1VAC.png

I inspected them at length last night, and in the next post I'm going to put some links to high-res pictures so you guys can do your own white glove inspections as well if you're interested in this stuff.

Thoughts so far:

- They do a great job of keeping the dining room table from floating away.

- From my personal experience in dealing with VAC Motorsports I'm pleased with the communication & workmanship. IMHO, Tony Salloum (the owner), his partner Paul Milano, and the whole crew up there in Philly are a top notch shop. CJ was/is my sales representative, and I would highly recommend his support to your guys' inquires. He recommended performing the following refreshing & improvements, and DID NOT try and upsell me shit that I didn't need. CJ actually had to talk me out of the heavy valvesprings and stuff... apparently they don't get along with the VANOS cam gears, and I'm not doing a VANOS delete. Thanks for not fucking the customer for the short-term dollars dude, you guys will get the long term dollars.

VAC Motorsports M62B46 Stage 1 Performance Head Specs:

VAC-S1PCH-M60 (Quantity 1)
VAC - M60/M62/S62 Stage 1 Performance Cylinder Head
-Complete Disassembly & Cleaning
-Comprehensive Leak, Crack & Pressure Test
-Inspect All Components For Irregular Wear
-Our High performance Multi Angle Valve Job using Serdi Equipment
-All New VAC Uprated Valve Guides
-Viton Valve Seals
-Reconditioning & Blueprinting of Your Valves (N/A - Uprated Valves)
-Balancing of Your OE Springs
-Trueness Checked & Resurfaced Mating Surface
-Unshrouding of Valves
-Attention to Potential Hot-spot Areas and Chamfering

VAC-HPV-M60 (Quantity 1)
VAC M60/M62 Valve Kit (32) 6mm Valve Stem
- Stainless Steel Intake, Triple Groove, Standard Size
- Inconel Exhaust, Single Groove, Standard Size

VAC-HVL-6MM-S (Quantity 16)
6mm Hardened Valve Locks / Keepers
- Single Groove

VAC Motorsports M62B46 Stage 1 Performance Head Hi-Res Photos:

Unboxing 1
Unboxing 2
Unboxing 3
Unboxing 4
Unboxing 5
Inspection
Rear View
Front View
Top View 1
Top View 2
Intake Ports 1
Intake Ports 2
S/S Intake Valves & Hardware ("T 1.039/1" stamp) 1
S/S Intake Valves & Hardware ("T 1.039/1" stamp) 2
S/S Intake Valves & Hardware ("T 1.039/1" stamp) 3
Exhaust Ports 1
Exhaust Ports 2
Inconel Exhaust Valves & Hardware ("8348" stamp???) This stamp was/is extremely hard to read and I still am not 100% positive of the characters or if so are not able to view entirely. Kind of a bummer, but no biggie.
Combustion Chamber 1
Combustion Chamber 2
OEM casting date stamp
OEM M62B46 stamp
OEM "60" stamp that I found kind of interesting...

The VAC Motorsports Oil Pump should be complete next week. The quality of workmanship in these heads eases worries of something happening during the oil pump's dissection, surgery, and reassembly. That VAC oil pump sprocket bolt better be locktited so hard it'll survive WWIII... that's all I'll say, haha.

Oh holy crap. That looks very very pretty. Nice. What's the damage, $$$, for the vac upgrade?

Right below the P/N's are links to the product & pricing sir. I wanted a real good BMW shop to do the head refresh. Specifically, the experience to know where look for common stress damage areas, if any.

Yea I saw that. Curious of you had "extras" added

So I figured I'd upload some pics. Maybe show you guys what I was up to since the last post. Nothing crazy really, just cleaned the parts and assembled. :)

Finishing photobucket dump now. One sec.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...7E6AB963D2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5453.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5664.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5666.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5630.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5653.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5685.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5686.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6166.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5444.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5448.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5445.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6038.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6158.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6173.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6176.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6233.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6231.jpg

If Dinan's Facebook page sent you here (page 8), the previous pages show VAC heads, engine assembly, PLX DM100 cluster install, etc. ;)

Cheers,

- Jay

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6319.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6271.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6322.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5531.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5533.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5593.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5611.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6224.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_6332.jpg

Pics are a few months old. Put 9k on it since. Runs really really good. The fresh VAC heads are giving me ~80 more miles per tank. Nice to have all the exhaust valves sealing lol. More power is a bonus. Tubi's sound great.

I found this shirt and I quite like it...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...46F0BCB113.jpg

;)

So that's all for now!

- Jay

your temp indicator looks a bit high though

High is in the red. ;)

haha, true, but why is it running at that temp instead of being in the middle?

I have a feeling that is a more accurate gauge than the factory one.

You're not married are you? My wife would never let this happen.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/IMG_5453.jpg

My wife is into cars! It's how we met haha

So that became my "clean room" during assembly. We hardly ever use it but maybe once in a while for poker night. :)

By request...

133,000 miles. 131,000 of them supercharged.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../IMG_7034L.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../IMG_4336C.jpg

<3 your car JB.

This proves that Dinan is made for the long haul, with the right forced induction you CAN have factory reliability!

What ever came off this exhaust? I recently did the x-pipe on my current X5 the same way I did the last one, but I still want it louder. I'm tempted to reinstall a resonator and then just do a muffler delete.

You're X5 is looking awesome, BTW. What happened to the 3000GT...it had quite a film of dirt on it! My HD F150 has turned into a 700hp curb weight since I haven't gotten around to running it. I've been looking into those PLX modules as well.