Based on the advice here, that's what I did. I cut out all the bad parts and spliced in new pipe. I got the factory bubble flared pipes and used that to join it in the front, and then did a traditional double flare on the two ends I connected towards the back.

I only hope that the sections of the pipe I didn't replace which were buried up in the back above the gas tank and rear suspension don't rupture. Those will be a real pain to get to.

So far so good though. No leaks. I just need to properly bleed the system. Th e pedal is still a little soft and I fear I may have to take it into a shop to have them put the ABS and DSC into "bleed mode" on their computer. I'm also getting a brake pressure sensor fault, but I hope that's related to the leak, as I just changed that a few months ago.

Wasn't there some theory that the A/C condenser ends up dumping water on the brake lines which causes them to rust prematurely?

The A/C drain dumps on the front driveshaft spline.

Mine just broke today while compressing the calipers to put the new brake pads on... mech said I gotta come back tomorrow because he has to get some tool to bleed/calibrate the system...

My wife was on a short road trip and the break fluid warning light came on. She picked up DOT 4 brake fluid and topped it up and got back on the road.

I took it to my mechanic as soon as I found out and sure enough, rusted break lines. :yikes:

I just found out last week that my brake lines in that exact spot was leaking fluid, now I`m trying to fix them, but the dam rain here is slowing me down.

On a preventive note...

I just drilled a hole, this way I can spray water using a garden hose to clean brake pipe every Spring (around April-May every year) w/o removing the fat-ass cover.

- Bought the 3/4-inch Jeep rubber plug used to cover Jeep differential. As it turns out, although this is called 3/4", one needs to use a 7/8-inch drill bit, which I didn't have.
So I returned the rubber plug ($3 at local auto parts store).

- Instead I simply drilled a 3/4-inch hole as shown and left it open.

Then hose it every April-May or so. Or hose it every 3 months or whenever you like...

not a bad idea.
on a side note, splicing brakes is a pain the the you know what. I think I got er done but I will leave the cover off for a week or so and keep an eye on things.

cn90, good call on drilling the hole, it actually may be better to leave that hole open since I think part of the problem is there isn't enough airflow with the "big ass cover" on there and the moist air/salt gets trapped.

If any of you guys are having to drop the cover to fix the brake lines, consider replacing the fuel filter as well just while its open.

Break fluid light had come on once, refilled and noticed a puddle under the drivers door. Mine are rusted in the exact spot. In the process of splicing new lines. Seems like a very odd location for a leak. They are well covered by the floor pans. The exposed lines look far better. Really surprised by this repair.