Xoutpost.com - Stuck Caliper.....Thoughts

Xoutpost.com (https://xoutpost.com/forums.php)

- X5 (E53) Forum (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/)

- - Stuck Caliper.....Thoughts (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/71750-stuck-caliper-thoughts.html)

Where did you get the reman calipers? Did they look exactly the same as the ones you replace? Same coating too? or did you need to paint them?

Quote:

Originally Posted by princemoe2m (Post 728183)

i had that problem about a month ago where my right front caliper locks and make it shack like crazy on the left front end of the X. i did enough research on getting a kit & fixing it but it seems too much of a head ach and if u miss 1 step or dont fallow it the right way it well prevent problems within the caliper in a short period of time... its just not worth it.. dealer wanted too much for each caliper but i got mine for $85- rebuilt and they sure were BMW calipers and i was happy when i got em.. i replaced both calipers while am at it.. ( sure if one side goes bad, the other well soon, thats how i look at it.).. dont pinch the brake line or anything, u well damage em.. just take the caliper(s) out and LEAVE THE RESERVOIR CLOSED dont open it, when ur done with the job just bleed ur lines( mine took about half a bottle of break fluid that i picked up from the stealers for $4 something after i did both calipers. i aslo did a brake job and rotors changed as well. GL mate

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brit6 (Post 763280)

Rebuilding our calipers seem to go over pretty well? I can't decide if i want to get the rebuild kit, buy a new one for $260, or get a reman one. I don't put any aftermarket parts on the X5 ever, only ever oem BMW.

Any suggestions? I am going to do both the front ones either way.

You could upgrade to E38 750iL double pistons up front...you just need the calipers, hangers and pads.

Nah, i just want something as close to original as possible so i can enjoy the suv again :p

Quote:

Originally Posted by m5james (Post 763302)

You could upgrade to E38 750iL double pistons up front...you just need the calipers, hangers and pads.

My friend whos a mechanic rebuilt both my front calipers nicely, no more shaking from the steering wheel. We replaced the rotors and pads at the same time. Not too bad.

first time posting on here. having big trouble getting the seal back on the piston. i have the 4.6is so its double piston. please help any advice will be helpful

Quote:

Originally Posted by nra0707 (Post 728169)

To rebuild a caliper piston, you need to remove any corrosion on the piston itself and the caliper seat where the piston moves back and forth. Also you need to replace the rubber seal that keeps the piston seated airtight in the caliper. The piston moves using brake fluid pressure, but once the caliper is removed from the brake lines, you need something else to push out the piston. That's where an air compressor comes in. You need to force air pressure into the caliper to push the piston out.

If you don't want to rebuild, buying a remanufactured caliper is the easier route.

For brake bleeding, I've used a Motive brake bleeder which I think BavAuto also sells rebranded as their own.

:iagree:
:thumbup:

It's easy to remove brake line from caliper without having fluid drain/air in ABS module.......

Depress the brake pedal 1" (little trick, this keeps gravity from draining the res fluid down to the calipers), Plug the caliper ports with 10x1 cap screws with 3/8 rubber grommets (to seal the fluid inside and keep crud), slip rubber 3/8 vacuum caps over the threaded ends of the brake lines.

Cap screws/grommets from Home Depot, vacuum caps, ANY auto parts store.

can't believe nobody has posted this yet. If you don't want your line to continously drip fluid while it is disconnected you only have to press the brake pedal far enough to engage the master cylinder. This blocks of the intake port and seals the brake system. This is easily done using a proper length of 2x4 or other similar device, and putting the 2x4 between the seat and the brake pedal, then move the seat forward to press the brake pedal. you don't have to press it very far to make the fluid stop dripping. Make sure you leave the pedal pressed until you've reinstalled the caliper.

--Oops, didn't see the 3rd page. What TiAgX5 said.---

a potentially messy but easy alternative to using compressed air to remove the piston, after removing the caliper from the bracket and before removing the brake line, pressing the brake pedal will push the piston out. then leave the pedal pressed down and you won't get any further leaking when you remove the brake line. avoid getting brake fluid on the paint and out of your eyes/ears/nose/mouth...

So true. Been doing the pedal press procedure for over 30 yrs now.