freeze frame for P0500
 

I got the following:
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...reezeframe.jpg

I thought that it would be a speed sensor but it might not be. I have been reading other forums that they mention a camshaft sensor in fixing this problem.
This error first came out after cleaning the body throttle and I thought it was just a coincidence that the speed sensor fail in the same time and I replaced the rear left sensor which I found that it didn't have the same impedance as the others. Replacing the sensor didn't fix it. What does the freeze frame tell me?
Did I mess up something by cleaning the body throttle?

SES, DSC, Brake, ABS lights are also on.

OK, I never used that that obd software before and I didn't know much freeze frames either. It looks like a freeze frame is a snapshot of a bunch of data taken at the occurrence of the error code in my case P0500 which is a speed sensor.
I research other forums and most of them talk about changing/swapping speed sensor to indentify which one is defective.
I got confused when I found one forum that talked about camshaft sensor for P0500 and when I saw the freeze frame data I thought it might be some connection there. It doesn't look like it is.

Anyway P0500 in my case ends up to be the rear right sensor that was causing the problem.
The behavior:
- Brake, DSC, ABS lights ON then later on SES turned on as well.
- rough deceleration
- speedometer and odometer were working
- I don't think ABS or DSC worked but I think they were suspended by the ECU

In one forum I found very detailed diy for how to find the dead sensor but it didn't cover my findings so I thought I should post it here.
Based on that thread the speed sensor has a diode in there and with a multimeter should be easy to measure it (impedance in one direction and non on the other direction).
What I find is that a good sensor has no impedance at all (with my multimeter which can do a lot). I found this the hard way, I replace the left rear sensor thinking no impedance is no good.
The faulty one (rear right) had about 600 ohms in both direction which I though should be ok vs. the no impedance one.
So, when I measured the new one and found that it had no impedance then I replace the 600 ohms one as well and the light went off and everything runs smoothly again.