I was talking to the dealer and they said they had a factory boot go within a month -- probably wasn't installed correctly. Anyway, in CAnada they wanted $90 for the boot. I would prefer the factory boot, but in this case I went with a REIN one for $20. If it breaks, I'll change it again with a factory one. The other side (driver) is so far 25k mi and going strong. (it was a non-factory one). HAving said that, if I had access to the factory boot for the US price at the time ($40), I would have totally gone for that. I was in a bind and needed the job done quickly, so I didn't have time to order the part from the US.

Thanks!

amacman, you can't lump all mechanics together in one group... Sure there are some all over that inflate labor times for extra profit, but when that is caught at my work it is instant final notice if not termination depending on the situation. Book time in general is deemed as what the job should take an experienced mechanic to do the job properly with hand tools while not taking any shortcuts. I own LOTS of expensive tools to help me get the jobs done quicker, and have developed many time saving shortcuts that still allow the job to be done properly. (including one this thread is about) But there are still plenty of jobs that take full length as there simply aren't shortcuts that can be performed... especially when it comes to electrical diagnosis work where there is no book time. If you sell two hours diagnosis but it takes you 5 hours to track down the problem (which happens often on these complicated beasts we call modern BMWs, just look at an E65 wiring system/bus chart) Basically some you win, some you lose.

Good morning Weasel! Yeah I found out recently how much a light test probe could be helpful. Has a problem with the starter but didn't know. Checked everything linking back to the fuses, to the relay, fusible links and ignition switch. Has the starter tested(Advanced auto) said it was fine. Finally just said what the hell. Plopped 12 bucks for a test light, hooked that sum biotch up to the lead wire and what ya know, it lit up. Bad starter. Stoopidddd! Should of had one years ago.

And just think, the starter circuit and fuses are just about the only things on BMWs you can use a test light for. Everything else is can bus or PWM.

:thumbup: fair play to you
most garages and mechanics play more than fair . some will cheat slightly .
I know most jobs take full length and sometimes longer , hence the the occasional shortcut can balance things out . fair enough .
I had the dealer replace a cv boot first time around and quoted 90 minutes so I waited and watched as a rookie took three and a half hours to fit an inner boot to the outer cv joint . the service manager told me the most incredible bullpoop as to why all this happened , in front of other staff who also knew it was bullpoop , some folk have no shame .
I paid 90 minutes as per quote . I no longer deal with that service dept . I have since fitted the correct boot because the plastic boot fitted by the dealer squealed with steering turned .
as per this diy it was a 30 minute job instead of the 380 minute waste of time at the dealer .

now if you were my local tech I would be a very happy customer .

Let me correct that statement about some you win some you lose, lol!
"Dealer will always win, you will always lose sometimes more, sometimes less"

My work is done here

As someone who has worked for the dealer for about 6 1/2 years now I can say that is far from true....... I can't tell you how many times we lose and the customer comes out smelling like a rose. Also remember this, when a problem becomes too big/uncomfortable for an independent to work on/figure out what do they say? "Send it to the dealer." At the dealer we do not have that option! We are the end game and have to be able to fix everything that comes in the shop. And nothing is worse than coming behind 2 other shops that have the car all apart, wrong bolts/connectors all over, wires cut/spliced with cheap autozone wire crimps etc. And if we want anything even close to how long it will actually take to fix this pile of mess up correctly in labor time we are stealers/thieves/crooks etc. I've literally spent a couple hours a day over a month to fix a 650i convertible that was butchered at a body shop then independent shop after a minor wreck in the right rear panel... and only ended up getting paid about 6 hours labor. Why, because the customer wanted to save money and found a shop that claimed they could "fix" the car for just the price of their apparently high deductible, and they didn't want to make an insurance claim. Yeah, they saved a ton of money right?

not every job is in the nightmare category . routine servicing earns money . brake jobs mostly go ok .

cv boots are obviously a money spinner .

I spent seven hours attempting to replace the right rear spring strut on my 740i because the spring broke . one delay was trying to open the right rear door which had decided to not open for some reason , I think lack of use because I lubed everything once I had it open and it seems ok now .

the real problem was the lower strut bush seized into the hub carrier and no amount of impact or leverage moved it . I had limited access on a floor jack so it had to go to the workshop lift and use the air hammer to move it , job done . replaced upper rear wishbones both sides also . the nuts on the ball joints had to be cut off . nearly £2000 in repair work this past year on that old car . I would be lucky to sell it for that amount of money .

Thanks guys, great info here....

1) My outer boots are cracked but inner look OK, should I replace inner while I have the axle down? Or do inner's last a long time? current mileage 64K....Q - what are the most expensive words in repair? A - "While I'm at it..."

2) Has anyone found an acceptable aftermarket boot? (wouldn't even ask for 1 boot, but I'm contemplating all 4 fronts)

3) Does the c-clip on the axle for the outer CV mount inboard of the CV or outboard of the CV?

Thanks again!

From amacman's first post-

If you can not remove the axle collar nut you may be able to separate the shaft from cv joint by pushing on the shaft toward inner boot whilst pulling on the hub .pic 6 shows the shaft with cv joint removed .


Don't you have to remove the collar nut to remove the c-lip? If not, how can you push the axle out of the CV with the c-clip in place?

ie. step 4 of these directions?

1) unbolt the control arm (the straight arm) at the end closer to the engine.
2) swing out the whole assembly by hand and afix with something firmly
3) remove outer boot clamps and cut off the outer boot.
4) grab the driveaxle firmy with vice grips and pry the shaft out of the CV joint against the force of the retaining C-clip.
5) wipe off grease, install new clamp, boot, clamp and C-clip.
6) while applying pressure to push axle back into CV joint, use a good sized screwdriver and poke at the C clip until it snaps in.
7) Apply the grease from the packet and then tighten clamps.
8) put on tie rod and only tighten it once vehicle weight is on the front wheels.

Thanks again!