Transfer case
 

Waz all my transfer case just went out on me today on my X5 anybody know where I can get one for a reasonable price right now it's sitting at the shop


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rebuild it, cobra transmissions has a kit

what are the symptoms of a t-case dying??

Thanks


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I was driving on i95 in Florida just got off on to the exit slow down now I'm ready to hit the gas and go and all I heard was a loud metal to metal sound pull over and look underneath didn't see anything start it again put it in drive there goes the noise again call my mechanic told him and he it's the transfer case and front drive shaft


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Nice. No warning!! LOL. not exactly the failure mode I prefer.

You got right!!!  still love my X5


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Keep us updated on what you do!

Good luck.

Ok


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Well finally got the part I needed to fix the X5 my total cost for parts is $1000 gonna get the car back tomorrow the thing is it's not really the transfer case per-say it's the spline male which is the drive shaft and the female on the transfer case


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As far as the warning goes I just remember something when put it in gear I remember hearing a cling sound didn't think anything of it but now it make sense the spline had a little play in it so all it took was time


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Glad you are back on the road again.

Had you ever changed out your transfer case fluid?

No I haven't but I'm getting a full fluid over-haul


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I just had the same thing happen to me and I found this thread and sent my drive shaft to racemailibu572 and he put a longer spline on the end. He provided very quick turn around.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ft-flawed.html

I didn't have to replace or rebuild my transfer case so I ended up with a solution for less than $800 including the towing and repair by my local AMMCO garage.

Thanks gonna call


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glad to hear its on its way back on the road

Triple x5, did you already have the output coupler replaced on your case and did you already call me today about a repair? If you have the old, damaged coupler from the case, I would repair your shaft at a discounted rate in exchange for the part. Thanks, Tom.

Yes sir thanks


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Working on the front drive shaft sometimes causes alignment problems. I think you'll need to mark if you're doing it yourself.

If anybody has a problem with there front drive spline don't replace it repair it with this guy RACEMALIBU572  this is the man right great machinist hats off to him keep doing what you doing man as a X5 owner thanks for your skills


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Hey Kev, thanks for the props.

Just got X5 back and Oh my god the shaft fits like a charm like i said in my previous update racemalibu572 is the man my mechanic said (hey I want his number this guy is GOOD)



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I can also hear a cling sound on mine, but only when I change the gear to R. No cling sound for D. How long after you heard the sound before it blowed away?

I believe his number is 262-749-0689 8am-8pm cst. He left it on the other thread.

Get you shaft extended as soon as possible I didn't know what that clinging noise was until it was too late as far as what I know so far right now between the drive shaft and the transfer case the spline are worn out that's why you hear that sound it's gonna go out so my best advice give RACEMALIBU572 a call and he'll do a excellent job for you


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Thanks, man. I'll call after I take off tonight.

Quick question: Did you hear the cling sound both at D and R? Or you just hear the cling sound at R?

Thanks again!

Both at drive and reverse


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That makes a lot more sense to me.

Mine only have cling sound when switch to R. It might be a bad axle IMO, cuz the CV boot has been torn for more than a year. :D

Thanks for the reply, man! Glad you're back on the road again! I'm going to Miami next week to have my honeymoon. See you there!:bustingup

Thanks Have fun


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interesting info here. our x5 is right at 120k miles.

I got the same clink sound when I do R/D shifts. I haven't looked under the car yet. How hard is it to replace the front drive spline? Do I need to take the transfer case down? Is there a DIY for this job?
I will contact RACEMALIBU572 to get a rebuild front drive spline but I just want to make sure this is something I can do myself.

Same here. Just posted another thread asking if $450 a good price for both sides axles. The parts is only $50+ EACH SIDE!!!! If there's something we can DIY, I'll definitely do it myself first.

Yea you can do it yourself and yea you gotta drop the transfer case if you don't know what your doing I recommend that you get someone that do this is a pic of mine when I got it back racemalibu572 is the man


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Do I have to open the TC up or just drop it to replace the front drive spline? This front drive spline seem to be a common problem. Is the chain in the TC a common problem as well? I would like to fix this in one day and I want to make sure I have the parts before starting the job. Should I order the chain as well?

No you don't have to open the TC all you have to do is drop it as far as the chain goes if you feel a hard slip or like a jump when you engage drive and about to move off then you need to change the chain if that don't apply then replace your drive shaft


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Thanks Triple X5. No hard slip, just clink sound when first in R or moving in D right after. I will contact RACEMALIBU572, I guess that's the answer.

Good luck with that, man! And remember to keep us updated! :popcorn:

racemalibu572, that looks very well done. :thumbup:

Mine might be living on borrowed time (105K)... will have to take a look at it. Is there a periodic interval for lubing the male/female splines?

It takes about 20 minutes to pull the front shaft and inspect it. If you see any wear on the splines, time to upgrade before your stranded. You should be able to see where the splines make contact and do not to see what the good splines look like. Also make sure the seal is in good shape, they have a tendancy to come apart and allow water and road debris to get in there.

What of the below procedures takes 20 min? or which one should I apply to check or replace the front drive shaft with a repaired one?

1. pulling the exhaust
2. pulling a couple of large heat shields
3. pulling the rear drive shaft
4. remove the transfer case crossmember
5. split the trans and case to get a front drive shaft out

or this one:
1. remove the front stiffener plate
2. undo the bolts at the front driveshaft flexdisk
3. slide the shaft backwards until the flexdisc can slide out (it has a centering device that sticks into the flange on the front differential preventing it from just dropping out).

That's a rhetorical question, right?

It looks like, doesn't it? :) I found these procedures on another thread and either of them will take me more than 20 minutes :). It might be obvious for most of you here but just to double check before I go under the car, is it safe to say that procedure 2 is my best bet? I know Tom's repaired drive shaft is longer and procedure 2 might not work for it.

Procedure 1 can't be done in 20 minutes. Go with Procedure 2, and don't try and beat the flat rate time, just go slowly and carefully.

fmugur, the second process is to inspect the shaft. It can be done with basic sockets and wrenches. A novice, diy'er should be able to get it out in an hour. You would not have to remove the case to do the inspection, but you will have to, to install one of my repaired shafts.

Thanks rm572, I'll give it a check. Was told last night by a local BMW tech that the T-case on the 4.6iS was different in some way, but he didn't elaborate. I need to research on that...

That is one of the reasons I have been doing the shafts as repairs, I can verify that you get your original shaft back. So far all of the shafts have been the same. I believe it is internal parts that are different and the shaft is the same. I'll have to look up the salvage yard interchange to see if there are different shafts in the newer models.

OK here is a question for you guys. Based on this thread it looks like if the front drive shaft is shot the the X needs to be towed. In a different thread I learned that you can release the front wheels by unplugging a connector (I assume a TC connector but I will look it up). Today I could have tried it since I took the drive shaft out to check the splines but this thought came to late in my mind. I will have to send my FDS to Tom for repair and I guess I can use the X while the drive shaft is being repaired. Any thoughts?

Here is the thread I was referring to.
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...nt-wheels.html

I wouldn't try it.

Do you have a 2004 onwards X5 with x-drive, or the earlier model without x-drive? The earlier one doesn't have that actuator and harness.

No, mine is a 2000. Thanks JCL.

Is this a transfer case problem?
 

While traveling at a modest 55 MPH over a NY bridge, my 78,000 mile 2000 X5 suddendly felt like it shifted itself into Neutral without any warning. There MIGHT have been a momentary grinding noise but the engine over-reved at the same time. While waiting for a tow, I found the following:
Regardless of the gear the selector was in, the transmission acted as though it was in Neutral.
When the selector was in Park, it still "rolled" since I was on a slight upgrade.
I'm hesitant to bring it to the "stealership" since their typical diagnosis is "Replace the part" and in this case it could be the transfer case - my wallet is already beginning to hurt!
Any suggestions? Thanks...

It requires a physical diagnosis to confirm, but that sounds like the transfer case splines (output to front driveshaft). The dealer approach is likely to replace the transfer case. If you don't have a relationship there, try an independent garage that is familiar with BMW.

Look at posts #10 and #15 in this thread, and the subsequent discussion. There is a replacement spline offered by a poster in this thread, and several members have had good results with his work.

Thanks JCL but as I understand it, if there's a transfer case spline problem, there's still power to the rear wheels.
My problems seems to be unique since I've lost all power to both the front AND rear wheels. In addition to that, the car can still roll in Park. Do you still think it points to the transfer case?

Your transfer case doesn't lock together the front and rear driveshafts, like a part-time 4wd truck does. It is essentially an open differential. So yes, I think your problem still points to the transfer case.

Posts on here that mention still having rear wheel drive with a front driveshaft problem are referring to the 2004-onwards models with the x-drive transfer case, not the earlier models.

My X5 started vibrating badly since I hit large pot hole last week. I since replace the front wheel and balance align fronts wheels. Mechanic also notice worn CV boot therefore also change together but problem still there till finally last nite, loud bang on front left hand wheel while accelerating up hills then followed by continious metal clinking sound. Couldnt drive and stop the car on the slope. Clinking sound seems to appear when put in gear.

Does it sound like transfer case to u guys?

Cheers

I got the drive shaft from Tom this week and tried to install it. As intended it is a bit longer than the original shaft. I thought to place it in it is just a matter of pulling the TC back a bit to the back and slide the new front drive shaft in. To do this it seems to be a very complex job. I took out all the bolts that connect the TC to the transmission (e-torx) and the bolts from the rear shaft that connect it to the TC. I thought after pushing the rear shaft back a bit I could take the rubber universal joint/flange out but I couldn't due to the centering sleeve. So, what I see I have to do next is to take the rear shaft out to be able to remove the universal joint. But to do that it looks like I have to take the exhaust pipes out and then the heat shield and the the transfer case support and then move the TC back a bit to make room to install the new front drive shaft it.
Am I missing something here? Was this supposed to be as complicated as I find it. Most likely I am not doing the right thing. PLEASE HELP!!!

BTW, the shaft repair is very well done. Thanks Tom.

fmugur:

Well, you will have to drop the transfer case to get the new (longer) front drive shaft in, according to both the supplier and others who have done it. Can't help you on how much else has to come out to get the transfer case out, but perhaps someone who has done it can chime in.

Yes, it could be, but nothing replaces a physical inspection. Since you have had issues with the front CV joint and heard the noise at that corner, you need to look at everything from the transfer case to the wheels. If it is the transfer case that implies the front driveshaft output from the transfer case, not the internals of the TC itself.

Front Drive Shaft Repair
 

Hi fmugur,

I just tackled the first part of this today on my wifes 02. I got the shaft out and will be sending it to Tom.

I was curious about putting it back in and what that will entail. Let me know how it goes. Tom mentioned to me that you should be able to slide the trasfer case back without completely dropping it...

Can't wait for the reinstalltion!! :D

Done. back on the road with the new shaft. I will post my comments tomorrow.

Cheers JCL

Too bad the mechanic recommanded is not in Australia. Towed the car to stealership and I will try to remember to seat myself down when they tell me how much it will cost.:rolleyes:

BTW, is it possible the problem could be cause by the hitting the pot hole? I hope I can get my insurance company to take care of it if I can justify that it was caused by accidently hitting that pot hole.

Thx

If it was caused by the pothole, it would be due to impact and not just due to the jarring. Any impact would have left marks (and it would have to be a pretty deep pothole)

Although the machinist recommended is not in Australia, a driveline shop that is accustomed to cutting and welding driveshafts, changing yokes, etc, should be able to do the same repair. If the alternative is a new transfer case, it would be worth investigating.

Guys, I had a big write up for the drive shaft replacement and I lost it because the "token expired". I am so mad... :( It will take me a while to rewrite it. It took me an hour to write it with details and I lost it :( :(
Anyway, in conclusion I installed the long driveshaft without removing the pipes and shields. It is possible. You have a few bolts that hold the TC frame support hidden behind the heat shields and pipes but it is manageable with a bit of effort. You will have to make a socket size hole in the heat shield, that's all and push the pipe a little to make room for the socket tool. You don't have to remove the rear drive shaft. Take only the bolts that connect it to the TC/flexdisk and the frame u support so you can fold it to make room for the TC to slide back.
Anyway, I will answer questions if you have any, I don't feel right now to rewrite again the one hour details experience.
So, I had a clicking noise which is not completely gone, most likely I have the chain problem as well, but I can live with that. I just didn't want to get stuck on the road when the splines were gone.
Tom, please comment on the conditions of my drive shaft splines if you still read this thread.

Thanks to everyone here that helped with tips and quick reply and to Tom for a very well done job.

PS, I had a friend that is a mechanic and he actually managed to pull the TC back without removing the pipes, shields and rear shaft. He was able to remove these hidden bolts. I wasn't home when he did it but when I got back 1 hour later he was done and I was happy. The whole job took a while but to remove the hidden bolts, put the new long driveshaft in and tide all the TC bolts back seems like was an 1 hour job. I finish the rest of the job... but that was easy.

now was that 1000 just for the part ? was it new or used? I am having some of the same issues and my mech told me my axles wasnt the issue it was the somewhere in the transfer case or the diff.

After read the whole post I believe that I have the driveshaft issue. I will have to give Tom a call as well

Transfer case
 

Hi beewhy,

Just finished mine a week ago. Shaft came back from Tom, was perfect. Just an fyi, I did not remove my exhaust or heat shield, I worked around it. I used a drill bit to make a hole in the heat shield to get to one of the transfer case crossmember support bolts.

I also did not remove the transfer case crossmember support. I just loosend the bolts, its slotted to allow you to slide the transfer case back.

If you put the tranny in gear while the car is running, look at the front of the transfer case where the front driveshaft engages, and the transfer case hub is spinning, and usually accompanied by a horrible noise, this is the same issue.

If you have any questions, let me know.

What did Tom charge and how long did it take to get your shaft back?

transfer case
 

Tom charged $515 including shipping. I sent it to him on Tuesday, he received the shaft on Thursday, he had it fixed and shipped it out to me the next day. I received it on Monday.

I think that's a good price

How is your x5 holding up withth the modification?
 

[QUOTE=Triple X5;763149]Just got X5 back and Oh my god the shaft fits like a charm like i said in my previous update racemalibu572 is the man my mechanic said (hey I want his number this guy is GOOD)



Hi just wondering how the shaft is workign out, Im sending mine out this week to Tom, do you feel your X5 is worth keeping with hte modification or are you looking to sell it with fear it could fail again. From what i see it looks like it could last longer then the origional shaft splines.

front shaft
 

We are going to keep it until the wheels fall off....

The repair is better than from the factory, with the mod done, it is using more splines than it was originally, plus with the new splines on the shaft, it engages the ones in the case that were worn down a little...

He does a great job, fits like a glove....

nice to hear, as i love my x but man this thing is one problem after another, i just had my transfer case rebuilt 8,000 miles ago because the chain streched, i als had the transmission rebuilt. i wonder what is next, there has been so many things i have fixed ive lost count.

x
 

Funny, I hear ya... I change my tranny every 40k miles, it has 130k on it and still works great...we will see how long it lasts....

I change the transfer case every 20k, only holds a qt or whatever it is....still works great...not much play.

window regulators, dissappearing pixels, broken door handles, etc..etc..

But mechanically they run forever. I don't mind the other stuff, it such a great car for my wife and kids. Shut the door on an Infinity or Lexus and then go back and shut the X5! What a difference!

oh forgot to mention the valley pan was also done at 120,000 as that failed, I got 205,000 miles on it now.

My repair didn't last as long as I anticipated
 

I sent my drive shaft off to Tom about 11 months ago. I made it about 15,000 miles and the new shaft spun in the transfer case. This time, I just decided to do it myself and drop the transfer case and fix it right.
:(:sorry:

Nikpottala, I'm sorry for any inconvenience this cost you. I had another one notify me a couple months ago about his doing the same thing at 9,000 miles and just thought it was an isolated issue. I have contacted a couple other people I built shafts for and they both have over 25,000 on theirs with no issues. At this point I think I'm going to stop doing the shafts until I figure out what is going on. I'm not sure if it's something with the hardening or if it's the coupler in the case doing the damage. I noticed yours looked rusty again, were the splines greased when assembled and what condition was the seal in. I suppose if someone wants one for a quick fix to get by for a while and take a chance I'll do it but Im currently out of stock on splines right now so it will be at least a week before I get more in if I even order more. If any one else had a problem with my repair please let me know so I can try to figure out what's going on. I have about twenty more out there somewhere. Thanks, Tom.

Hey Tom,

Thanks for the concern and follow-up. I thought about the hardening of the shaft as well. When I look in the coupler in the case, it doesn't appear to be as worn as the shaft itself so it appears to be related to the shaft material.

When it was assembled the technician and I discussed liberally greasing the splines. Given the close tolerances, I'm not sure how much grease can actually still be in place once assembled. I suspect most of it get's pushed with the end of the shaft and really has little impact.

I'd be happy to send you parts if you want to look them over.

I think the longer shaft is the right idea but I'm not sure what caused premature failure. I just hope the Cobra transmission shafts don't have the same issues since I just ordered from them when I got all the other parts.

This time I did all the work myself so I know exactly what went into the repair. It wasn't all that difficult for a moderate to heavy DYI-type person. I changed the seals and the chain while I was there. Not exactly what I planned to do on Easter Sunday but I'm not as afraid to work on the X5 as I was before.

is this unique to pre face lift cars, i have a late 2005 and asked my mechanic to check it out and while the visible part of the spline was rusty he reckoned that there was sufficient contact area but lubed the splines anyway

Hey to address the rust issue no matter if you go with Tom's mod or with OEM replacements, send the shaft to Calico Coatings to get the splines micropolished and coated with a composite Teflon that has corrosion/rust inhabiter.

ceramic coatings, teflon coatings, thermal coatings solutions with Calico Coatings


You will never have a problem again. I work for them when I'm home from school and they are an industry leader. Its worth the peace of mind for a hundred or so bucks to have done. Plus they do all kinds of high performance coatings. Their quality is 2nd to none.

The micro-polish makes the splines less abrasive to counter act one eating into the other, and the Teflon coating reduces friction co-efficients and addresses the rust issue. Just smear some Red Line synthetic between the two and bingo.

Also to address the rust issue look for the air conditioner condensor drain positioned right above the splines. This is where the moisture comes from that causes the splines to rust. It would be cheaper to reposition the drain than to coat the splines.

I have this problem transfer case fail, and center driveshaft support, it's expensive what the number and address of that person who can fix this problem,

Name Tom
Email address [email protected]
Phone #(262) 749-0689


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hi i don't understand, i know i have the same problem you had, but what i don't understand is why you didn't have to change the transfer case,. also did you send RACEMALIBU572 the complete driveshaft or just apart of it... what was repaired

Having went the route of just doing the driveshaft retrofit with RACEMALIBU52 only and then later having to change the gear in the transfer case. I'd recommend ordering the gear from cobratransmission.com along with a new driveshaft and be done with it for a long time.

You don't need a new transfer case for this problem just the input gear and I also recommend putting a new chain in the case while it's open. Not a difficult job once the transfer case is on the bench.

What r the tools needed for this job, I have to get out the TC and the driveshaft... Do I send the complete driveshaft to racemalibu52

If you're going to try and go the stop-gap measure and only replace the driveshaft end with a 1-inch longer piece then you only need to remove the front driveshaft. Send the entire driveshaft since the new end will have be be machined and welded to you existing shaft. The stock one comes out with the removal of couple bolts where it bolts on to the front differential. Standard metric socket/wrench set.

If you are going to remove the TC, then you need to remove the exhaust, the front stiffener plate under the engine, the exhaust heat shields and uncouple the rear driveshaft. The only additional special tools for this besides standard socket/wrenches are star sockets for the bolts that hold the TC to the transmission. A 12-point metric end wrench will work on the star nuts for the hard to reach bolts.

What the best lasting thing to do, save a on cost and have the problem a few miles down the road or just go with the OEM TC and Drive shaft and be done with it.

No need to replace the entire TC, just get the replacement gear, a new chain, and driveshaft from cobra transmission and be done with it. If you can remove the transfer case from the car you should be able to change the TC gear/chain and it will save you about $2000 or more when compared to the cost of the TC. Even if you have to pay someone to remove it and put the replacement parts in, you be money ahead vs. buying a replacement TC.

My quick repair didn't last a year so just do it right. IF you have the replacement parts, it can be done in a weekend (likely one day depending on your skills). It took me less than 1.5 hours to have the transfer case on the floor.

Most AWD BMWs seem to share the same arrangement as far as front driveshaft/diff/TC are concerned. That means they also share the same problems.

Concerning the driveshaft splines stripping in the TC hub, like it has been said, the fact that the spines don't engage very far into the TC doesn't help since the load is spread only on a small part of the splines.

That problem is also present on the E30 325ix.
I did something to my ix that I think could be applied to the X5 to help the driveshaft spines live longer, or give few extra miles to a damaged one (assuming the the TC hub is still good).

I fabricated a 1/2" spacer to fit between the front diff flange and the driveshaft. With that spacer installed, almost all of the driveshaft splines are inserted inside the TC hub.
The holes in the driveshaft need to be threaded, and studs made. That solution seems to work well. My E30 is turbocharged, and the splines are still thight.

Here are a couple of pictures:

http://www.angeleyescontroller.com/Weblinks/spacer1.JPG

http://www.angeleyescontroller.com/Weblinks/spacer2.JPG

http://www.angeleyescontroller.com/Weblinks/spacer3.JPG

Ok if replace no driveshaft with a new shaft not a extend one, just a new one OEM driveshaft, should it work ok or do I need the 1inch extension on the shaft to make it work,

Don't need extended if you replace the tansfercase gear however the extended shaft may wear a bit longer. My original stock setup ran 150,000 miles.

hi ... OK i got the new drive shaft 1 inch spd, my question is what most I do when putting it in, and should i lube the spindly, I have read that the transfer case most be push back for the new 1 inch spindly,should it be drop also... please write the procedure in putting spindly. I'm have it done this week ( help)

Yes, make sure you lube the spline liberally. You won't have to drop the transfer case entirely to insert the driveshaft. I removed all but a few bolts. The bolts I left in I unscrewed to the point where they might have 2-3 threads inserted, then slide your transfer case back and the drivehshaft should fit with a bit of wiggling.

ok thk will report back when its in.....

OK the driveshaft is in, it took a mechanic about 10 hours to get it in, only cost me 300$ plus 750 for the driveshaft with the extra 1inch,,,,the x5 sound different with me new driveshaft, kinda rough,when in drive in D, but sounds OK in R,wondering if that the way it should sound with the extra inch....

the roughness is gone, the transfer case wasn't torch enough, all is good i'm very happy to be back on the road the extra 1inch on the drive-shaft works,
thanks to all

transfer case
 

Hello, I have a 2002 w/3.0 146k, i had a high squeal noise only when accelerating. you could really only hear it when going slow with windows open or in a tunnel or near a fence. the dealer said it was the transfer case, but ii have no physical symptoms or performance issues(other than it's not a 4.4) with no warranty, i was planning to run till it breaks, it does not seem like there are enough parts in there to hurt itself.
i have no chunking, like a stretched chain.
i'm not likely to spend the $ for a $2500 transfer case plus 7 hours labor if i can stretch it. I changed the ugly fluid with redline dex 4 synthetic. Has anyone done the diy cobra rebuild? it looks easier than removing the wheel carrier to change frozen rear ball joints