REPLACING TIMING CHAIN GUIDE RAILS
 

Hi all,

I just had a nasty shock the other day when I heard a ticking/knocking sound coming from the engine. It got worse as I was driving to my friends garage for him to investigate further, when I got there it was now sounding like a tractor!!

He said its the plastic guide rail that has deteriorated and the knocking/ticking sound is the chain slapping about.

I have read many threads here about similar problems, but they are all mainly about the changing of the timing chain, or VANOS unit as a whole etc. I just need to know how long/big of a job/what tools (if any) are required to change JUST the chain guide(s) for a 2001 4.4 euro, with 100k miles.

Thanks

You need to stop running that motor until you drop the oilpan and find ALL the pieces before they start making there way around the engine. I'm dead serious, do NOT start that engine again until you've checked everything thoroughly, replaced the guide rail, etc.. That happened to me in my 7 while doing 80 down the highway, but before I could even do anything, the timing jumped and the motor ate itself alive. Replacing that guide is no easy task as it requires removing the whole front of the motor, so short of pulling the motor and/or the entire front end off your car, you're going to have your work cutout for you. I've got PDF's on timing, adjustments, etc if you'd like them, then I'm sure people like myself, Weasel, JCL and MAYBE another BMW tech (tends to be a little grumpy, but we know who he is aka kill ;) ) can help you get this resolved. I hope it's not too late though.

Isambard, if you follow this link, there's a .pdf attached in the first post that includes 4.6iS timing parts.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-attached.html

I copied a potion of the parts of that .pdf as you can see below..... since these are for a 4.6iS check here:

RealOEM.com Online BMW Parts Catalog

...to see what the exact confirmed correct parts for your 4.4i are.

In any case, this should give you a *ballpark* idea of the parts involved.

RealOEM.com Section RealOEM.com Diagram Title Diagram # Part Description Quantity Part Number Price (Each)

[11-10] Lower Timing Case 3 Shaft seal, 48X65X10 QTY 1 11141275466 $30.02
[11-10] Lower Timing Case 6 GASKET SET CHAIN CASE QTY 1 11141436978 $28.00
[11-10] Upper Timing case 3 Gasket ring, 8,1X3,5X7,7 QTY 1 11141736758 $2.48
[11-10] Upper Timing case 4 PROFILE-GASKET, ZYL.1-4 QTY 1 11141741532 $10.69
[11-10] Upper Timing case 5 PROFILE-GASKET, ZYL.5-8 QTY 1 11141741533 $10.69
[11-10] Upper Timing case 9 GASKET-FLANGE QTY 2 11141435023 $12.74
[11-10] Upper Timing case 13 O-ring, 17X3 QTY 2 12141748398 $1.74
[11-10] Engine Block Mounting Parts 1 Cap with seal QTY 1 11141742042 $76.03
[11-10] Engine Block Mounting Parts 3 Cover QTY 1 11141736106 $16.37
[11-10] OIL LEVEL INDICATOR 14 O-ring 15,0X5,0 QTY 1 11431707164 $4.06
[11-10] OIL LEVEL INDICATOR 20 O-ring 9X2,2 QTY 2 11431717666 $0.73
[11-10] OIL LEVEL INDICATOR 5 Gasket Steel QTY 1 11137500261 $24.02
[11-10] OIL LEVEL INDICATOR 9 Oil Levelling Sensor QTY 1 12617508003 $163.50
[11-15] Cylinder Head Attached Parts (VANOS) 8 non-return valve QTY 2 11121706921 $16.11
[11-15] Cylinder Head Attached Parts (VANOS) 9 O-ring13X1,5 QTY 2 11121706927 $0.58
[11-15] Cylinder Head Cover 2 Set of profile gaskets, ZYL.1-4 QTY 1 11120034104 $48.06
[11-15] Cylinder Head Cover 3 Cover lid QTY 1 11127509328 $10.35
[11-15] Cylinder Head Cover 6 Set of profile gaskets, ZYL.5-8 QTY 1 11120034105 $48.06
[11-15] Cylinder Head Cover 8 PROFILE-GASKET QTY 2 11121733969 $15.77
[11-15] Cylinder Head Cover 11 Rubber seal QTY 16 11121437395 $1.70
[11-15] Cylinder Head Cover 13 Rubber seal QTY 6 11121721879 $1.74
[11-15] Cylinder Head Cover 14 spacer sleeve with O-ring QTY 4 11121715404 $2.94
[11-15] Cylinder Head Cover 15 Gasket ring QTY 4 61311459030 $1.67
[11-18] BELT DRIVE-VIBRATION DAMPER 6 Collar screw QTY 1 11231736585 $6.43
[11-25] Chain Tensioner parts lower 6 DEFLECTION RAIL QTY 1 11311741777 $114.87
[11-25] Chain Tensioner parts lower 13 GUIDE RAIL QTY 1 11311745406 $32.22
[11-25] Chain Tensioner parts lower 16 CHAIN TENSIONER QTY 1 11311741236 $95.44
[11-25] Chain Tensioner parts lower 19 CHAIN TENSIONER QTY 1 11317531813 $78.27
[11-25] Chain Tensioner parts lower 20 Gasket ring A22X27-AL QTY 1 07119963355 $0.36
[11-25] Timing Gear Chain Top (VANOS) 1 Camshaft adjuster unit with imion QTY 2 11367515357 $520.38
[11-25] Timing Gear Chain Top (VANOS) 2 DISTRIBUTION PIECE ZYL.1-4 QTY 1 11361433660 $54.68
[11-25] Timing Gear Chain Top (VANOS) 2 DISTRIBUTION PIECE ZYL.5-8 QTY 1 11361433664 $54.68
[11-25] Timing Gear Chain Top (VANOS) 3 Gasket Steel ZYL.1-4 QTY 1 11361705578 $6.08
[11-25] Timing Gear Chain Top (VANOS) 3 Gasket Steel ZYL.5-8 QTY 1 11361705579 $6.08
[11-25] Timing Gear Chain Top (VANOS) 9 Solenoid Valve (SOLV) QTY 2 11367524489 $178.00
[11-25] Chain Tensioner parts top 13 CHAIN TENSIONER ZYL.1-4 QTY 1 11311435026 $127.43
[11-25] Chain Tensioner parts top 13 CHAIN TENSIONER ZYL.5-8 QTY 1 11311435027 $127.43
[11-25] Chain Tensioner parts top 14 SLIDING PIECE QTY 4 11311435028 $4.98
[11-25] Chain Tensioner parts top 15 Clip QTY 2 11311742176 $4.32
[11-25] Chain Tensioner parts top 16 O-ring 7,1X1,8 QTY 2 07119906361 $0.46
[11-25] VALVE TIMING GEAR - CAMSHAFT 2 RECTANGRING QTY 6 11311705512 $5.62

Again, those parts are for a 4.6iS, so be sure to check RealOEM.com Online BMW Parts Catalog

Hope that at least points you in the right direction. Unsure if any difference, but that's what I replaced for the timing guide refresh. And it's up to you, but if the oil separator system, coolant valley pan, and rear coolant crossover gaskets need refreshing, might as well imho. Valve covers might be ready for a good cleaning, blasting, and powercoat of the top side. It's a slippery slope between "if it's good, leave it be" or "it's overlapping work, might as well" (at least it was for me).

Hope that helps,

- J

James, JCL, killcrap, Weasel, and the rest of the experts...

If plastic bits have a chance of being in the oiling system.... can the system be backflushed?

Ehh, I fear the damage is already done by the way he explained how the engine sounded. As long as he can make doubly sure the timing hasn't jumped, he might have a chance to save this engine. It's really too soon to tell at this point if it'd even be worth the effort of trying to backflush.

Thank you very much for your responses guys.

James, the car is at my friends garage and will stay there until he's fixed it. I dropped it off there as I knew it was something bad, and so I have his car for now..:D

I dont think the timing has jumped because she was still running sweet with no misfire or lumpiness. And I made sure I took it really easy until I dropped her off-barely getting over 2000rpm, and taking it really smoothly to reach it.

Guys, do you think I need to do all the things J. Belknap has done? Do I not just need the guides, and the gaskets/seals etc? Assuming there is no other damage found..

Also, you guys 'across the pond' talk about 'valley pans', or 'oil pans' is that the same as our 'sumps'? Sorry to be ignorant to your terminology, but I want to be sure we are talking about the same thing.

Basically I just need to know the bare bones of what is required, and then get the things I find damaged etc later and replace if needed. I totally understand your way of doing things J. Belknap, I'm just praying I dont have to go to that extreme and just replace the guides. Or am I wrong to expect/hope this?

Your beast's engine bay is a piece of art by the way J. Belknap!:thumbup:

Once again, thanks very much for your advice.

Ian

I'd double check now before ever starting the car again, it can be costly if you decide to start cutting corners now.

JK's list is pretty extensive, but as he said, you're going to be it there doing some major open heart surgery...do you really want to skimp on $20 here and $30 there with what's happened? I can't make you replace more than what is needed, but at the same time, IMHO it'd be foolish not to.

Valley pan refers to the area sitting inside the V of the engine, underneath the intake manifold. I preach to people all the time that 80-100k is the time to replace EVERY single piece of the cooling system...radiator, hoses, thermostat, water pump, valley pan gasket, hoses, etc You're going to be taking off a TON of things as is, so no better time than now to refresh all the auxiliary components that bolt onto the engine as well.

You're way past bare bones brotha...do you really wanna take short cuts now? I HIGHLY doubt you're going to be getting away with replacing only the guides, but then again, even if you do, you've got a bunch of things that I'd be replacing while you're in there that knuckle deep anyways. Yeah, I thing you're wrong to expect to get away with a few hundred dollar repair.

Yep, I hear you loud and clear, thanks James. You're right, I suppose I'm still in shock that this has happened to me-never had ANYTHING like this in my 20 years of driving. Especially seeing as its a V8. Especially seeing as its a BMW!!! Its like they planted a frigging 'this is gonna cost you big at some point' timebomb in your car!!!:wow:

I'll talk to my friend tomorrow and go through all this with him to make sure we're on the same page. He's a good mechanic, and I wouldn't trust my cars with anyone else, especially something as important as this, but we still need to be on the same page, right?!

Thank you again. Sorry to hear about your 7 series too, thats heartbreaking.

If your friend is good with a wrench, and parts are bought from Tischer, and you get a hold of some procedures, it shouldn't be that bad on the wallet for what you're about to do.

It's a tough break... Plastic guides are easy on the chain but when heat cycled over years in any vehicle (or even your oven if you tried) the stuff will get brittle.

Sorry to sound harsh, but I'd hate to see you go through all that work of disassembly, trying to take some shortcuts, going through all the reassembly just to start the engine and have some little oversite bite you in the butt and have the engine do to itself what happened to mine. Trust me, these motors are pretty strong and will last, it's just BMW cheaped out themselves in the wrong places...plastic guide rails? My situation was slightly different in that I bought the 7 used and the previous owner had overheated the engine, so the headgaskets were replaced. The shop did that the work failed to properly torque the guide down, so mine failed due to it falling off completely. Naturally none of this was discovered on the buyers inspection when I asked about the ticking noise the engine made, but it was such a deal and the car was in immaculate condition inside and out, so I took the chance. Not more than 3-4 weeks later and bam...that's all she wrote. Once my rebuilder tore the engine down is when I learned about what the PO had done, but thankfully my repairs, while expensive, got me into basically a brand new engine.

Thanks for your kind words. I was a little upset at first, but then when I got into researching the motor, I was actually kind of excited once I found the people who completely rebuilt mine since I was able to knock a lot of forced induction issues of the list with the sleeved block, camwork, etc. while the engine was apart. Granted I didn't have the car for about 3 months, but in the end, it was all worth it.

J.Belknap s list of parts seems reasonable but if you want to wing it go ahead .
as you say though , check everything before making decisions .

Glad it kind of worked out for you in the end James, bit of a raw deal, but what can you do without x-ray specs?

Spoke to my friend today, and he has just taken delivery of the timing tools needed for the job, so he's going to make a start early next week. We spoke about all the things you guys said to think about changing whilst he's there, and he agrees and is certainly on the same page as you guys.

At least I can certainly be more confident seeing that he already knew all that stuff. Though thats not to say I thought he wouldnt know, or at the least be aware of what is required, hell, it was him that said what it is most likely to be the second he heard it!! Like I said before I think I must be still in shock, particularly looking at the pictures of an opened up engine on another forum. I've pulled the engine apart a little when I did my oil separator, but this situation just looks like another game entirely..

Kinda crapping myself at the cost and the possibility of finding many things wrong and the worry afterwards of a small but vital part overlooked in the process of rebuilding, then a few thousand miles down the road, and BANG again!! :yikes:

Oh well no point in worrying, whats done is done, and what will be done will be done, just have to wait and see how it all unravels nexts week..:dunno:

Keep us posted...I hope the carnage is minimal.

I believe they use plastic chain guides to keep it quiet, since the chain is metal. Metal guides against a metal chain would be rather noisy. Also you want the guides to fail before the chain. So the use of plastic guides is pretty common and done on purpose. Now, as to what plastic they use - that's another matter....

Audi V8's have the same issue and some very small % of motors have this failure for seemingly no reason. It can't really be related to maint or use, just some low level failure mechanism.

[QUOTE=c4racer;778028]I believe they use plastic chain guides to keep it quiet, since the chain is metal. Metal guides against a metal chain would be rather noisy. Also you want the guides to fail before the chain. So the use of plastic guides is pretty common and done on purpose. Now, as to what plastic they use - that's another matter.... [QUOTE]

I believe you're right on the money with that. As much as I hate to admit it (preferring to rant on at BMW;)) engineering sense prevails here. I did wonder if it was something I had done wrong, or the previous owner(s), ie maintenance, for the guides to 'prematurely' fail. I wondered if it might be the spring-loaded chain tensioner that may have contributed in some way.

I mean there was always a slight knocking sound ('marbles in a can' as its been termed on several forums including this one) at start up from cold. Perhaps it had gotten worse than I originally noticed due to the slackness in the tensioner which caused the chain to slap about on the plastic more than it should have. But because I've had the car for 2 years now I suppose I didnt notice the gradual degradation and increased knocking, and length of time of knocking on start up increasing to about 3-4 seconds. Is this theory of the failed/failing spring-loaded chain tensioner being a contributor to the premature failing of the guides something that anyone else shares?

The knocking at startup can be both VANOS or the timing chain tensioner, it's just most replce the tensioner first since it's a $20 something part and can be done far easier than VANOS seals.

Ok, thanks James. I wonder if the jerkiness when cold for the first mile, regardless of whether in sport mode or not (yes I have looked at ALL the possibilities contained within this site for the lunging/jerkiness maladies) has anything to do with the VANOS system. I know very little if not nothing about it, but I'm sure I saw somewhere a post either here or on another forum where the solenoid seals were leaking causing a jerking movement.

And with my next-to-nothing knowledge about VANOS I was linking that with my lunging/jerking when cold... Any opinion on that? Do the solenoids have anything to do with the oil circulation, and perhaps its taking a while for the oil to be circulated due to them being faulty in some way? Hence the car needing to be driven for about a mile before it runs as smoothly as it should..:dunno: Or am I thinking and talking absolute garbage?

And what VANOS seals are you talking about? Could they be checked/replaced if needed (or just change them anyway) while mine is in for major surgery?

While the I6 and V8 (and even the V8 has different types), most people describe VANOS problems as jerky, loss of power, etc. This site is unrelatable to us, but read up on www.drvanos.com and or Beisan Systems as I bet their symptoms are similar to what you're experiencing.

If it's in fact the VANOS solenoids, that's exactly what you're hearing...oil starvation. There are check valves in there that are supposed to stop backflow, but apparently they fail and or the seals don't do their job. I personally run 0w40 and on maybe 3 occasions total I've heard a startup rattle, and that usually happened after the X has sat for at least a week or so and/or the rare occasion it sat overnight outside in the cold (visiting family in Reno winters), which makes some sense since seals shrink up in the cold.

The seals can be replaced, but as far as I know, BMW hasn't changed the gasket material, so eventually it'll happen again. I've tried contacting both sites above in regards to V8 kits, but neither has produced anything as of yet.

I've had a look on Realoem and the only thing that I can see 'seal/gasket' related are no's 3 and 16 here: RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.4i timing gear timing chain top - VANOS Is no. 3 what you are talking about?

I just want a better understanding of how these things go together and what is needed, so that I can talk to my friend next week, as even though he is good, he MAY not know as much as you guys/BMW techs know and may NEED to know. Or at best he WILL know and I can then have a better understanding when I discuss it all with him!

Thanks again James, for your time and input in all of this.

I have a new car, I have a new car, I have a new car...!! :D:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Got my car back from my friends today and its like a new car!! No start up marbles, just cranked her over and she sounds like a new engine. There is absolutely NO sound whatsoever-no VANOS, no nothing! The engine runs like a sewing machine, and I know it sounds stupid but it almost feels 'tight'. I've driven a new-ish car before, and it feels similar, I'm sure you know what I mean.

Anyway before I drone on further I must tell you I got a quote from BMW and thay quoted me £3000 in labour just to strip the engine to get to the guide rails etc. Thats before parts and whatever else they would try and dream up and say is wrong with it. My friend changed the water pump and belts, as well as all the guide rails and necessary gaskets and o-rings etc. Parts came to £500 and he charged me £500 in labour. I couldnt be happier. So I bunged him another £100 on top! :thumbup:

Thanks for all your help and advice guys, particularly you James for putting my mind at rest by sharing not only your own tragic story but clearly enlightening me as to what I'm likely to expect in terms of parts required, and basically just having an interest.

On that note, I would like to add that my friend did look at all areas around the engine and properly surveyed them for the possibility of the need for change within the next 50k. He noticed the waterpump had been 'sweating' and the belts had seen better days. Other than that he said the engine was in very good condition.:D

Congrats on being able to save it before it snowballed into a bigger problem, so thankfully you stopped driving it soon enough. It sounds like you have a great mechanic. Enjoy it :)

Awesome!

Thanks guys I appreciate your sentiments, and once again, your help!:thumbup:

Funny thing is his place looks like a run-down old scrapyard, and any normal person would turn around and drive away thinking it cant be a garage-surely not! Its funny I saw him last night and we were saying the exact same thing-he was the one that brought it up! :rofl: But he knows his stuff, and I'm glad I didnt turn around and drive away 3 years ago when I first went to him for a diagnostic on my Z4-which he, er, solved that problem too in about 5 mins...:D

The same thing just happened to my 2001 4.4i here in the U.S. I started getting this tin lizzy noise, drove down the freeway about 12 miles and when we opened up the oil filter housing the filter was filled with metal flakes. My technician feels since it still runs good that he will be able to fix it. He says however, do not get Made in China oil filters. The one I have had some holes in it so some of the metal has probably passed through.

Hi m5james,

My X5, 2001, 4.4 has done the same at 270k.
I got the front of the engine apart and discovered that the plastic lining on the entire V deflection rail is gone and there is a substantial slack on the chain. The camshafts location @ the 1cyl. TDC seem to be slightly off and the chain was kinda clicking and skipping when I was aligning the TDC rotating the vibration damper pulley by hand.
I was not far away from home when the car started this "ticking" noise and I parked it on my driveway and haven't driven it after. The codes were cam shaft VANOS control cyl. 1-4 and knock sensor cyl. 1-2. I have replaced both sensors and tried to start the vehicle couple times - it started no problem, although the sound of the cold engine was accompanied by a loud clanking rattle that would disappear @ about 1500-2000 rpm (of idle run). I did not hear any other unusual sounds. The rattle by itself was quite unusual and I shut down the car and haven't started it since.
With 270K on the engine I will go to full extend and replace both timing adjustment units, their solenoids,timing chain, all guides, and all the tensioners and the distributor piece with the total cost of parts approaching $2,500 ...if only the engine is repairable.
You guys have probably seen these cases a lot and may give a good advise. What would be the safest way of approaching the repair? Is it possible to check the engine somehow to make sure it is repairable before investing an all the parts? I have purchased the timing adjustment tool and it is coming tomorrow.
I appreciate your help and expertise a lot.
Thank you.

Congrats on the high mileage and catching it before it got worse!

Thankfully the parts floating around your engine are plastic, so I'd consider dropping the oil pan as well and taking any remaining chunks out of there...hopefully they've just settled there and aren't interfering w/ the oil pickup.

He isnt wrong there, that happened to me with the expected results........

Thank you for the advice. I will drop the oil pan and fish out all the bits and pieces before firing her up next time after the repair.
This weekend is going to be a busy one. The timing adjustment tool arrived yesterday and the new chain guide is on its way. I will keep the repair simple and dirty cheap at this point just to make sure that the engine is alive and repairable.
The vehicle turned to be a project car after 200k - transmission @210K (slip in reverse), the radiator @260k (your posts motivated me to replace all the coolant loop components at that time), front drive shaft @268k (purchased and installed a longer shaft from Cobra transmission - works great!) and a bunch of minor repairs in-between (door locks, window actuators, trunk lid lock, control arms, hood lock, cam sensors, CO2 sensors). With every repair she is getting newer and newer. Do not want to get rid of her yet and hope I will be able to pull it out this time with the help and advices of the Forum.
X5 is so fun to drive!...when it is not broken down.

Hi m5james,

You were right - there were plastic bits and pieces scattered on the bottom of the oil pan :yikes::

Some of them got wedged in the strainer of the oil suction pipe. I took time to clean them all out but the strainer screen still kind of tilted (from the bottom plate) in the housing

Is it how it suppose to be or it must be flat against the bottom plate?:dunno:
I also found a small O-ring and so far cold figure out where it came from. Any ideas?:confused:

What a pain to remove this bolt (collar screw) from the hub. My impact does not fit without removing the AC radiator. I have broken 1/2 driver already and really afraid of damaging the bolt head.:bawling: Do you have any tricks to get it out?

Thank you. I appreciate your help James.

Wow, there was quite a bit of stuff in there!

As for the oil pickup, I cant imagine that got bent out of shape at all. i would think that it has to be a certain distance from the bottom of the pan. Imagine using a vacuum near a plastic bag...far enough away, no problem...too close, suction gets cut off. I'm sure as long as you put everything back the way it was, dont see any obvious bends in the tube, you should be good to go.

That o-ring...that I'm not sure about. My best guess by the size of it looks similar to the tiny one used on the end of the really long bolt used to hold down the lid of the oil canister. Since youre doing an oil change anyways, save it and compare the two.

I'm not sure which bolt you're talking about possibly stripping...any chance of a picture? I work at Boeing as a mechanic on the 787 and you'd be blown away at some of the obscene angles my guys have to work in order to remove bolts, collars, etc from the airplane. If needed, maybe some retail therapy :D and a quick run to Harbor Freight, Sears, etc to buy some tools could save you a ton of headache.

Have you cleaned right up inside the oil pickup?I just fitted a new one, and took the old one apart. I found that the only part of the strainer clear was the part visible in the hole.

Yes, I have cleaned the strainer using a stiff wire and pulled a lot of plastic bits and aluminium shavings from there, then I flashed it with varsol to make sure that he pipe is clean inside. Everything seems to be pristine clean. The only my concern is with the strainer screen slightly tilted inside its housing (not flat against the bottom plate). Is the strainer screen in your new suction pipe positioned the same way or it is mine still have bits of plastic jammed at circumference not allowing the screen to seat flat?
Thank you.

That was a harmonic balancer bolt (aka Jesus bolt). After first unsuccessful attempt of removing it (which ended up with a snapped square on my 1/2 break bar) I have done some research on what takes to remove it:
Lower chain case cover removal and reinstallation (M62TU) - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum
...and what happens when things go wrong:
Broken Crank bolt removal - LS1TECH
Having no desire of extending this project into removing a broken bolt out of the crankshaft I took this task seriously and followed instructions given by nesikachad - if you happened to read this, thank you - your instructions worked great!:thumbup:
The night before the new assault on the bolt I generously sprayed High Performance Penetrant in area around the bolt trying to reach behind its flange. Next morning I wrapped a strip of wet rag around the seal at the base of the crank snout and used a heat gun to heat up the hub (with the tool locking the crank shaft installed in place). After 5 - 10 minutes traces of white smoke began to appear around the bolt head - time for the action! I grabbed a break bar (this time it was 3/4") and put my weight on it. The bolt moved at about a half of the torque that took me last time to snap the square on my 1/2" break bar. Not bad at all :D - great advice, nesikachad! I have removed the special tool and the hub, still being warm, slid off of the sprocket without need of a puller tool.
With this road block removed I kept planking on removing components on my way to the chain guides. It took some extra time to remove the lower chain cover - in addition to the 15 bolts shown on the diagram there are 6 more holding the cover from the bottom through the upper oil pan (they are shown on a different diagram). There is also one stud holding the power steering pump and the alternator housing together with a nut located at the back where there were absolutely now room for my hands. I had to move the cover with the pump attached to create some room and only then was able to remove that nut and free up the cover.
...Currently all the guides are off. After examination, in addition to a completely destroyed plastic of Deflection Rail (V-rail), I found plastic lining chipped away here and there on other components and planning on replacing all the plastic linings in the rails. I will install new: Deflection Rail, Chain Tensioner, and the Guide Rail, but planning on replacing only Sliding Pieces (4 of them) in the upper chain Tensioners.
...Not too much I can do now before these parts show up.

I seem to remember that the new one was flat.........

Here is the last update on the project as of tonight - all chains and gears and all the plastic components removed.
...Waiting for the new parts to arrive.

sergi and james ?
 

do You both work for goodrich and boeing? I know they have plants in kitchner and everett wa ?

Good stuff man, making progress.

Hi J.Belknap,

While waiting for the parts I would like to clean oil lines from all the aluminium shavings that got through the strainer and possibly (I hope not) through the filter. My main concern is about the oil pump since my filter was plugged with shavings and bits of plastic (all of them went through the oil pump).
It seems to be yet another extended project to remove the oil pump. Would it possible something like flushing the system with fresh oil (or purging it with compressed air) without dismounting and disassembling the oil pump? If I disconnect the pipes at the oil filter and pump fresh oil through would it help anyhow or all this is just wasting time and I need to drop the oil pump for a proper clean up?
I very appreciate your help.

Thank you.

I know you are not going to like hearing this, but here goes. My engine had the same failure as yours, and as I didnt catch it in time, the tensioners were well grenaded. Ther car was taken to an Indy who replaced all the chains, tensioners, vanos units etc and told me it was good to go.
I did about 500 miles and then knocked a bottom end out.
This time I took the engine out of the car and repaired it myself.
The pump suction filter had choked, losing all oil pressure, and as BMW do not provide an oil pressure gauge you dont get an early warning.
On stripping the engine it was obvious that parts from the earlier tensioner failure had not been properly cleaned out, the oil galleries were full of shavings as with your filter, and the oil pump was dead.
To change the oil pump requires the sump pan to come off, and the front drive shafts go through this. Its not an easy job, and probably better to take the engine out if you really think it is neccesary. But even after doing this there will still be bits floating around the oil system if you dont clean the engine internally.
You might be lucky and get away without stripping the engine, but a failed bottom end is a real PITA.
Apparently BMW Germany have a couple of cranks left, I had mine metal sprayed......

Thank you IanP for telling your story. I am really sorry to hear about your vehicle and you experience with its repair. The information, however, is very helpful for me.
Still waiting for the parts to arrive, tonight I have taken apart the oil filter part of the lubrication system - detached all the hoses and purged them with clean oil and compressed air, dismounted the filter housing and thoroughly washed it with Varsol. Overall everything was not too bad - no visible chunks of Al shavings any more, although I could see shining clouds of tiny Al particles in the varsol while cleaning.
Thank you for pointing out to the oil pump. I will take my chance of not dropping the oil pump - this will be a separate project, if I need to. Instead I will attach a tee at the pressure switch outlet of the oil filter housing and run a copper tubing to a pressure gauge (thank you for the hint) that I am going to install inside the cabin to monitor my oil pressure during this transition period (for a couple of months). I will also change the filter and drop the oil pan and clean out any residue and build-up in the pan and suction pipe again in a couple of days after firing the engine after repair. Most likely I will change the oil, too (will be pending on the condition of the filter).
BTW, what is the pressure range in the oil line for a regular operation? I will size the pressure gauge accordingly.
Thank you.

Don't mean to sound like the sky is falling, but the filter pictures appear concerning. :/

How does the other side of the filter look? Once junk is in the system, like Ian said, it's time to tear the motor down all the way (or swap in a lower mile lump). The screen before the pump seems like it did it's job in not letting things big enough to wreck the pump get through. As far as the crank/rod bearings & other small oil passageways, being wrecked by the really really small junk..... time will tell. I would HOPE that the BMW filter catches things small enough to wipe out bearings but that might be wishful thinking. This line of thought kind of reaffirms how important the tensioner/chain guide maintenance is. The cost of tearing apart the motor for a full-on rebuild is probably more than swapping in a used lower mile unit. (You could source and maintenance prep that motor now though.) Then, you can just sleep easy at night and when it fails it fails and the freshened lump gets dropped in. They all will fail at some time, heh. But it's still no fun to sit there and watch for a pot of water to boil.

I would run through a few oil changes and filters, inspect them and go from there. The pump itself is likely fine (IMO). With a decent gauge you can monitor it. A canton Accu-sump could be fitted to give you a few more seconds to do an emergency kill. If you do drop the driveline to do the oil pump job though, IMHO, just have a fresh new OEM unit w/ new chain ready to swap in. The rationale is that the internal shaft and twin-screw gears & external cog and chain wears too. And it makes for a less downtime, ya know? That's always a good thing. :D

Best of luck man, hope to hear updates with good news!

edit: and if it's any consolation, I (and one other X5 owner here) get to be the guinea pigs for the E53 version of the VAC Motorsports oil pump "fix" that they offer for M62's. If it's not "fixed" properly it will wipe the motor for sure. Not that I expect it too at all, but things happen sometimes.

Fluid Pressure Sensor Module - PLX Devices Inc - USA
DM-100 OBD II - PLX Devices Inc - USA

For your consideration.

Hi J.Belknap,
Thank you for your posting.
Do you think I would be OK with connecting a 100 psi pressure gauge to the pressure switch inlet of the oil filter housing? The manual specifies 0.5 bar (7.25 psi) at idle run and 4.5 bar (65 psi) of regulated pressure. I could use compressed fittings to connect steel tubing to the oil pressure gauge on one side and to the M12 x 1.5 threaded hole (for the pressure switch - item 23) of the oil filter housing. All together - for $51.00. I could run the tubing with the gauge inside the cabin and mount it temporary to monitor the oil pressure in the system while driving. ??
But I have a question: since the pressure switch (item 23) would be pulled out of the lube system and not able to detect any pressure would the board PC allow to run engine/drive the vehicle? :dunno:Any ideas?
Thank you.

Hi Sergei, afraid I cant help you with the running pressure, maybe you could ask your local dealer? I would treat the oil pressure light as a 'time for a new engine light' as by the time that comes on its a bit too late

Hi Sergei, here ya go bud. M12x1.5 goodness.

Oil Distribution Block JTD 900

I would call JT Designs to verify fitment of the JTD-900 (or JTD-901) for our platform. For reference, here's a few pics of the supercharger oil distribution block.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...346iSSCODB.jpg

Different setup and port sizes, but you get the idea. Oh, and yes I would agree with ya on a 0-100psi range if you're fitting a mechanical gauge. Easier to calculate the needle position imho.

Have a good weekend dude!

- J

Hi IanP,
I think the "running" pressure is what they called "regulated pressure" of 4.5 bar (or 65 psi). There must be a pressure relief valve in the system maintaining a constant 4.5 bar pressure (after it is reached) of a running engine. I am going to run a simple mechanical pressure gauge inside the cabin to monitor pressure while driving.

Hi J.Belknap,
Gotcha... I will try to tee the line (...tight in there) and keep the pressure switch along with the new installed 8 mm tubing feeding the pressure gauge inside the cabin.
It looks like my parts got stack over the weekend in the deliverer's local distribution hub and the weekend is going to be easy. I am planning to press in a new front crankshaft seal and really can not do anything else until Monday (according to the tracking number).
Thank you for your help.
Have a good weekend, too!

...the new seal is installed...

M5James, when you were in DC area, were there any decent indy guys who could do this type of work on a 4.6iS?

I wish I could dive in to the DIY but I don't think I have the technical ability - I have changed rotors, pads, managed to replace a thermostat on E39 528i - but those are band-aids and triage in comparasion to an open-heart surgery!!!

it seems that my X5 has taken the plunge and got those plastic rail (and who knows what else) busted up.

As the car is becoming a money pit at 147K miles, (the Russians started the mess, when they were looking for the engine serial number to register the car in Moscow. They took half of the engine apart just to get to the nameplate, and that is when the problems started to snowballing).

I am thinking about giving it a quick fix and get rid of it (hopefully in favor of latest production run of the E53 4.8iS, something like 2006 model)

Back then, I hadn't seen the light AKA I wasn't a BMW owner :) I was driving a SC'd 2001 Toyota Tacoma, which I traded for the 740iL6 that I have now.

That is too bad...


There was a local guy in Frederickburg, VA area, who did some mechanical work for me, he worked at an engine rebuilding place (what a perfect coincidence!!!). But now I can't get hold of him and it seems that he might have some issues with the law... lol...

I would like to keep it as much as possible as a home project, instead of a big "corporate" faceless even if I am taking the car to a knowlegable mechanic's home... lol...

It works!:band:

I just have finished putting everything back together and fired the engine up. It started right away, rough for about 2-3 seconds and then nice and smooth; started a couple of more times and the engine picked up right away - very smooth, no knocking or rattling. :bmw:
...I still have to install the bottom enforcement plate before taking her for a test drive, but am leaving it for tomorrow. ...Tonight I will have a very good sleep...;)

I will try to put some information together with pictures and a video later on.

Huge thanks to everyone who gave me valuable advice and information that helped me sailing in the right direction through this big and challenging project!:thanks::yourock:

Nice one

Iwould change the oil after a few hundred miles and take the bottom of the sump off again to see if any more bits have become dislodged. And check the pump pickup again

Good deal man! :)

I'm on my third employment for Boeing...F22 program (Tukwila, WA) after being an F14 mech for the Navy (Virginia Beach, VA), computer nerd for a few years (Everett, WA), moved to Boise, ID and ran my own small BMW repair shop for about 5yrs, then back to being a mechanic, this time on the 787 (Everett, WA again).

Congrats Sergei-e, that's awesome. Sorry I hadn't replied more, I've been preoccupied w/ my bike and another vehicle purchase, a 2002 Ford F150 Harley Davidson...that after 2 weeks of ownership will need a new transmission - it's like reliving the new ownership of my 740iL all over again :) Anyways, once again, congrats!!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...5-26163302.jpg

Very cool.

I have this paranoia that someday I'll be at work in town and a Super Hornet will land on my head. F-18 pilots trying to perform Raptor-like climbs and all. I swear if we encroached any more on their crash zone, the office would be on the runway.

How the F22 packages everything inside it's skin blows my mind. I hope they have a realistic maint budget contract for you guys, even if it's at the cost of not producing new units.

/offtopic

It was an interesting program. Built the wings, aft fuselage and avionics in Seattle, then I had an opportunity for about 4 months to goto Marietta, GA to help w/ some final assemblies. Seeing it together was quite awesome.

My only experience w/ seeing F18 pilots flying (besides Seafair in Seattle) was when I was still on the aircraft carrier. F14's landed like they were on pillows, F18's on the other hand SLAMMED down onto the deck...I assume it has something to do w/ having less air surfaces.

Hi Steelheader,

Nope, I am from Kitchener, Ontario.

Hi IanP,
Thank you for the advice.:thumbup:
I have changed the oil at the end of the same day, after about 60 km of driving. Changed the oil, filter, dropped the pan and cleaned out the suction pipe. There were minor debris (compare to the original load-up) here and there – a few little bits of the plastic lining, minor amount of small aluminum shavings in the filter and a couple of squeeze-outs of the RTV that I have used to dress the gaskets. Nevertheless, I have thoroughly washed the suction pipe with Varsol cleaner, installed new oil filter and changed the oil. I am planning on doing the same in another 1000 km.
My first outing after the repair was on Sunday. Although it was rough weather for puddling, I had nice feeling that the life settled back to normal.

[QUOTE=Sergei-e;880225]It works!:band:
.........
I will try to put some information together with pictures and a video later on.
.........

I do not want to be boring for other members with a long writing or explanations of this repair that has been described on this forum already; however, will be happy to answer any questions.
The main bullet points that may help are:
• For me it was a big DIY job. Altogether (diagnostic, research, ordering alignment tool, taking everything apart, ordering required components, and assembling everything back) it took me about 5 weeks. I was working evenings after work and some weekends. …Sometimes I had to do nothing but wait for the components to arrive (going cheap and leaving the dealership place as the last source).
• Below is the list of the parts that I have replaced. All of them, except the three last items, I have purchased from AutoPartsWay.ca: Auto Parts in Canada! - Canada Auto Parts Online
1. Part Name: Lower Engine Timing Chain Guide; Part Number: OES1664820; Item Price: $128.21
2. Part Name: Lower Engine Timing Chain Guide; Part Number: OES1663935; Item Price: $65.36
3. Part Name: Engine Variable Timing Solenoid Gasket; Part Number: REI1664015; Item Price: $8.46; QTY Required: 2; Item Total: $16.93
4. Part Name: Lower Engine Oil Pan Gasket; Part Number: ELR1665479; Item Price: $19.60
5. Part Name: Engine Water Pump Gasket; Part Number: GOE1641223; Item Price: $5.19
6. Part Name: Right Engine Valve Cover Gasket Set; Part Number: REI1796510; Item Price: $28.11
7. Part Name: Left Engine Valve Cover Gasket Set; Part Number: REI1796509; Item Price: $29.48
8. Part Name: Lower Engine Timing Cover Gasket Set; Part Number: GOE1631041; Item Price: $28.72
9. Part Name: Front Engine Crankshaft Seal; Part Number: PAY1636483; Item Price: $12.37
10. Part Name: Engine Timing Cover Seal Strip; Part Number: REI1663977; Item Price: $10.54
11. Part Name: Engine Timing Cover Seal Strip; Part Number: REI1663978; Item Price: $11.06
12. Part Name: Top Engine Timing Chain Guide; Part Number: OES1663936; Item Price: $8.68; QTY Required: 4; Item Total: $34.74
13. Harmonic Balancer screw; Part Number: 11231736585; Item price: ~$34.00 (from the Dealership)
14. Torx bolt M12 x 1.5 x 85; Part number: 11361432438; Item price:~$16.00 (from the Dealership); QTY Required: 4; Item Total: $32.00
15. Four O-rings for the oil lines going to/from the oil filter – approx. $10.00 total.
The total cost of the project in purchased components: $466.31.
• Expect to remove everything from the front of the engine including power steering pump and expansion tank and the transmission coolant heat exchanger, although you do not have to disconnect the hoses.
• Do not even think twice about removing the coolant radiator. You will have to remove it at one point anyways…and most likely it would be damaged by that time already. I learned it hard way when my coolant pump hub slipped out of my hands and nicked one of the radiator’s fragile tubes.
• Removing the harmonic balancer screw (aka Jesus bolt) was unexpected road block for me. Do some research on this before trying to remove it. I have read some nightmare stories when this bolt would break off with its threaded portion remaining in the crankshaft. This bolt is tightened to torque to yield – past its yield point and into a plastic deformation phase – basically permanently stretched a little inside the crankshaft making even harder the task of removing it. Do not torch it! This not only will expand the bolt increasing its diameter and further jamming it in the crankshaft but also will cause effect of heat treatment making this bolt brittle disallowing it to “stretch and flow out” of the crank shaft thread and almost assuring its breakage. Earlier in this thread I have written my experience of dealing with this bolt after I have snapped the driver of my ½” breaker bar.
• Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool Set – this is a "must to have" tool for the job. I have ordered this set from Tools-World through eBay: BMW M60/M62 Camshaft Alignment VANOS Timing Tool Set (180871524067). After the harmonic balancer bolt is removed rotate the crankshaft clockwise close to TDC of the first cylinder (both intake and exhaust cams of the first cylinder will be facing each other at about 45˚) and insert the locking pin (part of the Alignment Timing Tool Set) into the flywheel through the bell housing – you may need to move the flywheel a little bit to assure that the pin tip will make it into the flywheel hole firmly engaging and assuring no crankshaft movement. When the pin is inserted into the flywheel with both cams facing each other @ 45˚ you would see the flats of the camshafts with markings (A1-4; E1-4; A5-8; E5-8) facing up. Install the camshafts alignment tools – one at a time (you may need to tweak the camshafts with 27 mm open wrench (grind it to fit to prevent damaging the engine head) to align their square ends with the mating slots of the alignment tools). After these tools are installed you are safe to dismount all the chains, tensioners, and sprockets.
• Before tightening the sprockets and camshaft adjuster units to the cam shafts make sure that your torque wrench works (clicks) in both directions. I learned it hard way that my did not… Likely my gut feeling stopped me before I snapped the bolts inside the camshafts. I have unscrewed them and measured – they have started “necking” at the flange and were 0.008” smaller in diameter at the head flange than at the end of the thread. It cost me additional $32.00 (item 14) and extra two days of waiting time (even the Dealership did not have these bolts readily available).

...There were a couple of "sidetrack" projects on my way: like one morning my hood would not open and I had to open up the wheel well to reach that "junction box" where two cables meet each other to open the hood and fix the hood lock.:rofl:

Sergei,

Once things appear normal with respect to the visible debris, Blackstone Labs can provide oil analysis services to help you determine if any small stuff is circulating through the filter or not.

Its looking good!! But just wondering, didnt you change the camchains while you were in there?

Hi IanP,
No, I have not replaced any of the chains.
I thought if my plastic lining pieces lasted for 270,000 km then a steel chain will last at least another 270,000 km and I will replace it next time with the next chain guides repair. :D:D:D
To be serious, I have not heard about catastrophic failures of these chains and if it happens to me this Forum would be the first to know about it.;) I have carefully inspected every single link of the long chain and did not find absolutely any signs of wear or tear – no flats or worn out spots on the rolls, almost no play on the pins, nor even slight wear on either of the staked sides. I always prefer keeping sound original components in my vehicle – this not only brings the cost of the repair down but also keeps original BMW parts made by high standards and workmanship, now proven by time, in place:bmw: (otherwise at this mileage I would have to keep replacing everything).:gun: In my opinion, another advantage of using the original chain is that this chain has been stretched already and will not affect my timing alignment down the road, whereas a new chain will stretch after some time and may affect the timing (it might be just another piece of mind for me to justify not spending extra $150.00 on the chain.):genius:

Thank you m5james,

I am sorry to hear about your truck... It reminds me my story with the X5 when I found out that I had to repair the transmission (was slipping in reverse) shortly after registering the vehicle. I was able to stretch it over that summer season, though, - from May all the way into fall and fixed the transmission in October (well, October-November).
Good luck to you - I hope your transmission is repairable - should not be a big deal for you to fix it.

...1700 km after the repair. Everything seems to be OK. I have changed the oil filter after 1000 km but kept the same oil in the engine.
Sergei-e

Good to hear. :)

Thank you J.Belknap,
At 3,000 km after the repair the vehicle stopped counting…but keeps driving.
Now I have another issue with the vehicle – my DSC unit had started malfunctioning lighting up my dashboard with warning lights, switching the transmission into fail safe mode, and making the temperature gauge go crazy. So I removed the DSC and sent it out for repair. I keep driving the car with four warning lights on and speedometer disabled (use the GPS as the speed indicator), but the tranny behaves now (does not go to the failsafe mode) and the temperature gauge is back to normal. I think I killed the DSC by jump-starting the vehicle after I had drained the battery at my last camping/fishing outing.
…Almost started forgetting to pay extra attention to the oil pressure gauge. The pressure, however, is fine – the warning light goes out right after the engine cranks and never goes up even at idling.

My indie replaced my DSC after BMW dealership dx it as the problem. Unfortunately, he is still getting the warning lights, speedometer. All codes have been cleared and have not returned. Anybody have any ideas what is going on here?

left rear speed sensor? can be checked with a diode checker right on the ABS plug, I can't remember off the top of my head, pins 11 and 12?
each of the 4 speed sensors is responsible for for additional tasks and I think, that rear left has to do with the speedo needle...

Would that also cause the other warning lights such as BRAKE, ABS, etc to light up?

HI, I HAVE A LOUD STRANGE NOISE FROM MY CAR. ITS A 2002 E53 4.4I. ITS SOUNDING LIKE A HOOVERCRAFT. WE HAD THE CAR TAKEN APART TO CHANGE THE TIMING CHAIN GUIDES AND WHEN WE PUT IT TOGETHER WE HAVE THIS NIOSE COUPLED WITH A AMBER LIGHT ON DASH (deterioration of exhaust emission control values?)

the only thing i can think of is that we started the car with a pipe off the secondary air pump but fixed this.

does anyone have any ideas? this car is costing me a fortune!!

video of problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uv-mrfOE9V0&feature=youtu.be

it varies with revs and never goes away!

The DSC unit has arrived back from the repair two weeks ago. I have installed it right away and the vehicle is back to normal with no warning lights on the dash board. :bmw: The repair was done by Where do I start?. The cost for rebuilding the Bosch 5.7 for my X5 was $300.00. After the repair I did not have to mate the module with the vehicle's computer. This saved me a trip (and the money) to the Dealership. :D Everything worked out very well - they indicated what was wrong with the unit and what was replaced; upgraded the circuit to prevent from a similar failure in the future, and gave 5 years warranty. On their website there is a simple step-by-step instruction on how to diagnose problems with the module and what to do next.:thumbup:
...I keep driving - 5,000 km after replacing the chain guide rails and keep counting... What would be the next and when?...

hi, turned out my noise was a locked up fan clutch and the light came on because i forgot to attach an airpipe.


however, ever since we put the car back together it hasd been hemeridging oil! i dont know where it is coming from. i have just changed the rocker cover gaskets but still no luck. Any thoughts on where it could be coming from? i left it overnight and it lost half a litre! seems to be leaking when stopped for some reason and not so much when engine is going!

Hi Livefreeordie,
I would check the oil separation system. This was one of the first things that I had to fix on my vehicle after I had purchased it. Almost any other time when I shut the engine it would siphon a pool of oil on my driveway.
...Both of the vent hoses #4 and 5 were mashed inside and flattened. The oil return hose #13 was disconnected from the rear intake manifold cover (that tiny plastic nipple just broke off). I have replaced all of the components including the cover. That was more than two years ago. No problems with leaking or dripping oil since that.
I hope this will help.
Good luck!

Sergei-e, I was very impressed with the work you did on your X5, thank you for sharing your experience with us. BTW how much did you pay for the cam alignment tool?

Hi mgbmwx5,

Thank you.

I have ordered the tool from Ebay for $355.00:

BMW M60/M62 Camshaft Alignment VANOS Timing Tool Set (180871524067) Price: US $355.00, Qty: 1

Hi everyone,
I thought I should post an update on the project. Yesterday I have changed the oil and filter in the vehicle at about 10,000 km after the timing chain guides replacement. As I was planning I have dropped the oil pan and inspected it. On the bottom I found two plastic pieces of the old guide rails lining about 3/4" long and another little piece about 1/4" x 1/4". I did not find anything else there and the strainer of the oil suction pipe was surprisingly clean (except one flake of the RTV gasket that I used during the assembly) – no aluminum shavings at all. The filter (a third one after the repair) yet still had traces of small aluminum shavings here and there. Overall everything seems to be OK, no issues at all with the oil pressure. I am planning on changing the oil next time at my regular intervals of 10,000 km.
…As my next project I have to replace the rear subframe bushings. One day I heard the rear suspension clanking when my wife was pulling out of the driveway. I have dropped one corner of the subframe at a time a discovered that all 4 bushings were shot (the metal inserts completely disintegrated from the rubber housings). I have made a band aid fix by temporary jamming 3/8” thick 4” O.D. x 1.5” I.D. rubber washers in the assembly stack (shown on the picture) to keep the metal inserts in place and it did the trick: the suspension is back to normal – everything is solid and no clanking while switching from reverse to forward. This should last for a few months until November or so when I am planning to replace the bushings with new ones …but now – it is salmon fall run that will keep me and the vehicle elsewhere away from any repair activities.

WOW! You overpaid.

Got mine for less then 1/2 that price.

BMW M62 cam timing tool | eBay

Hi TiAgX5,
If you are planning on removing a timing chain or replacing your VANOS units you will need two VANOS alignment tools and a special socket for VANOS alignment. They are shown on the pictures. I have purchased a set with these tools included plus a chain pensioner block and a deep socket for VANOS solenoid valve.
I hope this helps.

http://www.xoutpost.com/images/smilies/thumbup.gif Yes, you need all of these to do the job right. Also, make sure you get the shortened timing pin.

Yes, my set came with a longer pin and I had to trim it to fit into the X5 bell housing.

Just a thought for anybody doing this, DO NOT do what my useless indy dealer did and use the timing pin as a lock to try and get the front pulley nut off. You WILL break a chunk off the bell housing.

I have made up a simple tool out of two pieces of 1/4" thick HR flat bar welded together - one piece is 4" x 4" and another is 2" x 18". The 4" x 4" piece has through holes drilled as per holes (and the dowel pin) pattern of the crankshaft's front flange. This tool worked well for locking the crankshaft (of course, with the locking pin removed from the bell housing) while loosening the bolt for disassembly and torquing the new bolt in place after the repair.

You mentioned that you used silicone to dress the gaskets,did you dress all the old metal gaskets?
Do you have any oil seeping through them now?
My internal debate is to use the silicone or not to use it and leave the metal gaskets do the job.
My lower oil pan had no gasket,just a black RTV.I had a hard time removing the oil pan.No leaks were present there,but same silicone under lower and upper timing cases was leaking really badly.
Probably somebody didn't do it right.
I really don't know which way to go,if it leaked in near future I don't want to tear everything once again just to reseal.

Спасибо,тёзка.

I used Ultra Grey high temp silicone in/on all corners of the upper and lower covers - don't go crazy with it, just the corners.

......
 

Speaking of timing chains, I got VANOS sprockets for sale just in case...

http://www.xoutpost.com/classifieds/...it-pinion.html

I have 134k on my '02 4.6is. I just purchased it in March of this year with 133k on it. The reason I have put less than 1k on over the last 6 month is that I have had to do the following so far:

• Replaced valve cover gaskets (they were leaking bad)
• Replaced radiator (cracked while driving and lost a lot of coolant. Running Evans now)
• Replaced driver window regulator
• Replaced FSR (fan blower motor was not working)
• Fixed stripped oil drain plug (used Time-Sert)
• Did transmission fluid replacement (dropped pan method)
• Replaced oil in front, rear and tcase)
• Replaced fuel, air, engine oil, transmission and cabin filters

Truck runs great now with no issues at all. So my question is, should I be worried about imminent chain guide failure, or should I just start driving the truck on a daily basis and then maybe look at doing the chain guides next summer when I'm at about 150k?

What are the odds that I'll have a failure between 134k and 150k?

If it is less than 10%, I'll likely not worry about it right now, but if the odds are greater than 50% a failure will occur, I'll probably tackle the issue now.

Has anyone here gone past 150k with no chain guide issues? What about 200k?

Thanks!

It's plasusiable. I cant say for sure at what % risk.
I replaced mine at 103K due to leaking tc gasket.

Good to know,I am planning to rebuild my old ones with Biesan kit.If it went wrong,I am getting yours.

After removing most of the U rail plastic lining,smaller bits and a lot of dime size bits,I can say that that lining was failing gradually.
The U rail lining consists,to my surprise,of a clip on liner which is a pretty loose thing on the U rail held in place just by 4 clips that attach it and 4 more in the upper parts,that restrict it's lateral movements.
Why is it done this way,to give it more play to avoid an extra strain from chain lateral movement under gravity forces? I have no idea,but to me,it gives that plastic more chances to crack when its material deteriorated.
So here's how it happened to me.
I have a DIS thingy ordered from Romania,cool stuff I should say when you get it working,so was playing with some adaptations and checking how those affect engine's performance etc.
It happened that I've reset DME adaptations once and got a rough start,stopped the engine and it restarted like nothing happened.So a couple of months later I get a timing code that wouldn't go away,mind you that it's not the one that gives you a CEL(SES) light.So I kept my eye on that and after a month or so I did the reset again and it was a really bed start again,that code jumped up right away,but X ran fine after restart.
Next day out of nowhere a terrible noise arrived.I knew what it was.
So here's is what happened.
1. I found out that oil level sensor isn't working,failed at some point,because I remember low oil warning in a downhill turn stops,constantly at the same spot I used to go fishing,where I had to turn left from the highway and get into a wharf descending path,a pretty steep one.So my oil level sensor was working just fine.
2. 1.5 liter low on oil,also it was getting old and I was about to change it.Dip stick readings were sort of misleading.

If I were you,I would keep my eye on the codes and keep your oil fresh and to the correct level.
The rails were grooved by the timing chain,but nothing extreme except for one spot where I saw a bubbled plastic's core and IMO it was the spot that tore the rest of the U rail liner.

No idea what the %s are but I'm at 170k miles with the OE guides.

Appreciate the feedback guys. I'll keep a close eye on the oil level and any SES lights, and otherwise keep driving it.

In hindsight, when I did the valve covers and radiator, that would have been the time to do it, but I'm pretty sure both of those will go a lot quicker 2nd time around. :)

Here's my observation on the chain and I wish I didn't by a new one.
Check out the picture below the quoted stuff,the old one if just a touch longer,which makes it a total waste of money when you buy a new one.
Same thing about the secondary chains.


And here is my experience with a torque wrench with no left click.

I have the same issue right now, I haven't started it since it occurred two weeks ago and have taken it to 2 places that don't even want to touch it due to the amount of work involved. I live in Michigan, Does any one out there have any connections, shops, local guys who they could recommend that would be able to take this on?

Any progress?

Unfortunately no progress, I did find a local guy that who works on BMWs out of his garage. Same suggestion without even looking at it, find a new engine. The thing is, it's been two weeks of him telling me he is still looking for an engine. So if he does do the work at this pace I predict no x5 till Xmas! This is what the 3 mechanics have said, " the labor to due the job of fixing the timing chain would cost as much as a new motor." Really? Or is it easier to install a new motor?
The most I have really ever done on the x is replaced the front and rear brakes, I am mechanically inclined but after doing research online to replace the timing I'm a little intimidated. I'm not paying 9000 for a used motor installed. I am already 8k in repairs and have owned it for 2 years. I still have some small things to do to it as well. So being 8000k in repairs, towing and car rentals I have to fix it and pray the transmission doesn't go. So try the repair? Or save up more than what it's worth for an engine replacement?

When I bought ours back in 2009 it had failed chain guides.
I was told to replace the engine...well so it was done.3 years later I ran into the same problem : failed timing chain guides.
Now,if then I knew what it was and how it's done,I would never listened to anybody's advise.
So I've done it myself,many things were replaced along the way.
Was it easy? No,it wasn't,and more because I was doing it alone.There are some torques that really require a helping hand or two.But yet,it was done.
Trouble free.Not really.Now I am getting an INPA code 33 or a generic P0011.Which points to the incorrect timing.I found it out just a couple of days ago.You may ask why.I used to have an Engine Light for the O2 sensors not being efficient or something like that,so I assumed that it was the same one and never got to hook the X my GT1 or INPA.
Now,I have to redo the timing.I am not happy about it,but knowing how it's all done and already having the tools is gonna help and speed up the process.

P011 code
 

Did you ever get rid of your code after retime?
I have tried 3 times and still have it. Read on another forum that the timing tool is a crap shoot at best. Have to keep turning timing wheel clockwise very little bit at a time till code goes away

I drive it like that,because I don't really have time to mess with it now.
X runs strong,no acceleration hesitation etc. gas mileage is the same.
On the first cold start I hear the chain slamming,so I may need to look if the brand new FEBI tentioner is still good.
This far I made 3500 kms and in a couple of weeks I was planning on getting the oil change and probably get into the correcting the issue.

Now regarding the timing tool.
Have you noticed that the grooves for the camshafts aren't perpendicular to the engine heads?At least the exhaust ones for sure.
There's a kit from the competition company with consists of different camshaft locks and those are all more like a 90º to the heads.Which makes me wonder which one is the right one.

Buy G.A.S. BMW M54 Professional Cam Tool Kit

I have nothing to compare mine too,but I tried to research some baum tools rental's pictures and they also have the tool pretty similar to the one I have.


How do you move the timing wheels?How many times did you have to remove the Valve covers?

Did you try to do what this guy tells to?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiPK...ature=youtu.be

I removed valve cover then use an open end wrench for large nut holding timing wheel on end of intake cam while counter turning camshaft with another wrench. Then just turn cam timing wheel (thing with the square teeth) clockwise an 1/8 in and see if code goes away
The post I found info on says that you always have to advance timing even though code says under advanced. That is the default message. There is another way to check timing.
On the front is a screw that looks like it should be holding something but isn't. After you get all the timing points aligned, crank pin in, ect. If you remove that screw and insert a small
Drill bit it should align with the a hole in the timing wheel. I didn't find that info until trying
To time with the "timing tool" 3 times. I put a drill bit in the hole and wheel was way off being in the right spot. Turn till it lined up and bingo no code. Hope this makes cense. I just picked up a 2000 x5 with 4.4 that needs guides so I get to do it all over again. Not really that bad if you aren't in a rush. One more thing, I tried saving a few $ and make my own valley pan gasket while I was doing the water pump and guess what, Leaked so had to take that all apart again and just ordered a new pan with the factory gasket applied. Highly recommend going that route. I changed to evens coolant and electric fan also while I was at it. This was all on a 2000 540i sport 6 sp.. With 112,000 k

Sorry. Didn't see the youtube link until after I sent reply but yes that is exactly what I did.
Used the beisan systems instructions for timing because I did the vanos rebuild also and assumed that the timing tools do the job. Not even close. Wish I would have come across that info earlier on in my repair. I found it searching around some forums buried deep in one of the posts. This info should be at the front of any post where engine timing is needed!

I removed valve cover then use an open end wrench for large nut holding timing wheel on end of intake cam while counter turning camshaft with another wrench. Then just turn cam timing wheel (thing with the square teeth) clockwise an 1/8 in and see if code goes away
The post I found info on says that you always have to advance timing even though code says under advanced. That is the default message. There is another way to check timing.
On the front is a screw that looks like it should be holding something but isn't. After you get all the timing points aligned, crank pin in, ect. If you remove that screw and insert a small
Drill bit it should align with the a hole in the timing wheel. I didn't find that info until trying
To time with the "timing tool" 3 times. I put a drill bit in the hole and wheel was way off being in the right spot. Turn till it lined up and bingo no code. Hope this makes cense. I just picked up a 2000 x5 with 4.4 that needs guides so I get to do it all over again. Not really that bad if you aren't in a rush. One more thing, I tried saving a few $ and make my own valley pan gasket while I was doing the water pump and guess what, Leaked so had to take that all apart again and just ordered a new pan with the factory gasket applied. Highly recommend going that route. I changed to evens coolant and electric fan also while I was at it. This was all on a 2000 540i sport 6 sp.. With 112,000 k