Vacuum Pump / Brake Booster Pump O-ring replacement
 

My first post to this forum. Thanks to all for the good information on this forum!.
I've been fixing a couple of oil leaks on my 2005 4.8is...one I found to be the lower oil pan gasket and the other is the vacuum booster pump O-ring. My question is: Does anyone has a good trick to put the vacuum pump back into the engine? The problem is the little flapper/driver that connects to the engine tends to "flap" into a position that will not allow me to seat the vacuum pump fully into the engine cavity. I've actually cranked the engine a couple of times to try align the groove that mates with the pump vertically to see if I can get the vacuum pump in without it flapping out of position. I have not been successful in getting the notch to be completely vertical, which I suspect would help. I have frustratingly tried to get it in for about 3 hours...no luck. Does anyone have a trick to get it in?

Thanks for any info you may have. - Rick-

Yes! The trick is to turn the engine by hand with a socket on the main crank bolt till the slot is straight up and down, that way the drive flap won't want to fall over. :D

Weasel - I didn't even think of that! Don't I feel like the idiot! That worked! Thank you very much!

-Rick-

Rebouch1,

Looks like my vacuum pump is leaking. Stealer wants $950 to replace. I can buy a vacuum pump for under $400. I am a newbie at car repairs but willing to try to save $540.

This looks easy enough except for lining up the slot

BMW TIS - 11 66 000 Removing and installing/replacing vacuum pump (N62/N62TU)

How do you crank the engine manually to align the slot vertically? Is the main crank bolt easily accessible? What size socket would you use for this?

Thanks for your help in advance.

I went the easy route as I didnt have the right size socket. Just turn the key from off to start and back to off as fast as you can and within 2 or 3 attempts you should find the slot vertical. It worked for me on the first attempt. Took all of 2 seconds and doesn't do any damage to the engine

Hi Kungfupanda255 - I forget what size socket I used...I'll see if I can take a look tomorrow. I just turned the bolt shown by the arrows below with a ratchet until the groove went vertical. You might just want to change the $2 O-ring before changing the whole pump. I did have to change the pump since the metal t0 metal contact surfaces between the rotor and the pump body was worn adn leaking by. One of my friends fixed his leak with an O-ring.

http://www.xoutpost.com/members/rebo...1806-crank.jpg

rebouch1 or anyone who did vacuum pump and/or might know :
:dunno:

- do you need to remove the BELT in order to turn the main engine bolt by hand [the above pix - main bolt] ?
- also turning at what direction - clockwise, and from under or can be reached from the top ?
------
- what size socket did you use for the vacuum pump [to the ENGINE] bolts - [is it 7mm ~ 6 point star socket] ? - also what is their torque value ?

thanks in advance

The belt is an accessory belt so no

Turn it the shortest route.

As for the bolts - just find a socket that fits

BMW TIS - 11 66 000 Removing and installing/replacing vacuum pump (N62/N62TU)

Bulk, thanks for the replay :thumbup:
turning L/R with the belt ON - ok
I have seen that TIS link, they don't list any sizes or Torque values there ...

:dunno: If I can find what is the torque values on that torx bolts [ M6X25 ] and if anyone can confirm they will take 7mm socket [just to loose to my feel :(] that will be Great . thx

So how does one know if the pump needs replacing or a simple O ring will do the job? The symptoms I have is a slow leak evident by some oil residue beneath the pump. Your insights would be appreciated.