ADVENTURER, if you mean that you pulled the inner cv joint out of its "cup" in order to remove the outer shaft and outer cv joint, leaving the inner cv "cup" (octadon shaped) attached to the differential...NO PROBLEM!
There are notches on the cup that you can use to TAP the inner shaft out of the differential- comes out easy! It is held in place by a snap ring that needs a little persuasion. I had to remove the large inspection plate from under the vehicle to get to the LF axle, so access was easy for both sides (don't know if it would be necessary for right side alone, but easy to remove if needed). If this doesn't make sense,PM me and I'll walk you through it via phone.
Good Luck!
Dan

Dan, THAT DID THE TRICK! THANK YOU!!! Once I removed the inspection/stiffening plate, it was much easier to get to the rear of the cup that holds the inner CV on theoutput (inner) shaft. The notches in that cup are weird in that they are "smooted out" on the outward side of the cup and therefore, I couldn't get my chisel to hold while I pounded. I had to pound my chisel at the rear of the cup itself to free the retaining clip. Only took a couple of shots with a normal hammer to pop it loose. I did have a bit of a poblem sliding the output shaft past the strut but a little persuasion to hold the strut to the right, helped there as well.

Thanks GREATLY for the tip! Now I'm on to installing the new shafts/CV's. Also thanks for the offer for phone support. I'll PM you if necessary.

Rick

Good deal!
I used 3 zip-ties and gently pulled and held the strut to the right- it is your worst enemy on the install. Be very careful of the cv boots-don't damage them with the strut housing or carriage. Like others have posted, you can remove the carriage to create more room, but I got mine in without this and without FORCING anything..just take your time! It will be tougher to tap in than it was to tap out...a 3rd hand (or pneumatic chisel gun) allows the freedom to wiggle and tap into place. You're almost there!
GOOD LUCK!
Dan

OK, ALL DONE!

After lining up the axle using a large jack stand positioned under the outside shaft, I pushed it in as far as it would go so that the splines of the output shaft were aligned with the splines in the differential. Then I had to give the axle end a good wack with a 10lb sledge to get the inside axle to "snap in" to the differential. The boots had a tendancy to push the CV's out a bit, so with the help of my wife, I placed a 30" x 3" piece of wood inside the jack stand on the floor. This secured the lower end of the board. Then with the center of the board pressed against the outer axle end, my wife pushed inward at the top of the board to compress the spring effect of the CV boots. This took all the play out of the assembly and one good wack snapped the clip ring of the axle into the differental. I spent more time finding the right size board to do this then it took to seat the axle.

I am now going to reistall the stiffening plate (a.k.a. inspection plate) and tires and take it for a spin. Big thanks to everyone here - especially Dan for helping me out! Happy Thanksgiving all.

Test ride successful! Thanks again folks!

there is no need to remove the caliper or brake disc(rotor) or abs sensor etc to do this job.
1 remove wheel
2 while sombody presses brake pedal or in my case i wedged a piece of wood between pedal and seat undo hub nut.
3 remove both lower arms where they attach to chassis( ie not at balljoints)
4 drive spline in thru hub with air or ordinary hammer.
5 when axle is clear of hub pull hub forward and tie it out of your way.
6 i was replacing inner housing that bolts to sump with 4x13mm bolts so i undid these bolts. not necessary just for shaft replacement but allows you to use a small prybar which makes it easier to remove inner shaft without any hammering.
7 when refitting shaft push it in rotating it till you feel it engaging the splines, then compress the two boots with one hand and hit outer end with hammer. one or two handy hits and snap ring should click into place.
8 the rest is a reversal of removal.
whole job takes less than an hour.

See the other thread you posted the exact same question 5 mins ago....

I have a 2001 X5 4.4 with 275,000 miles, I am going to replace the whole axle instead of just replacing the cv boot. Where can I get a Bently manuel so I can find the procedures to r/r the axle oil seal, or are there any post that show you to remove and replace the oil seal?

Im not sure as I Have access to other resources, but there's a ton of info kicking around about where to buy the Bentley manual. A simple search should point you in the right direction.

Put grease in the grove for the circlip and make sure the ends of the circlips are in the groove (that is what the grease is for to hold the ends in the groove). The ends of the clip are hanging up.

This video will show you the grease trick.

Rzeppa CV Joint Dismantle, Clean & Grease How to DIY: BMTroubleU - YouTube