I would love to see some more pics of failed ones. I actually read your thread about making the driveshafts with longer splines a while back. Very good idea. I do remember coming across a thread where someone mentioned putting a spacer in with the flex disc to push the driveshaft back a little bit. I've been contemplating giving it go to what happens. One questions stills remains to me though. Does damage only occur on the splines of the driveshaft or do they also wear down in the tcase too? Wondering if bmw made the metal softer on the driveshaft splines to minimize replacment costs.

I got tied up the other day and didn't get a chance to post the pictures. I'll try again when I get back to the shop. I wouldnt use spacers unless it was just to move it a short distance. An equal part of the spline in the case gets damaged as well but the new end still makes use of what was damaged.

I would also be interested to see how the female output from the TC looks, at the time when the front drive shaft splines are ruined.

http://i341.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/276d0cb1.jpg
http://i341.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/e9925ba6.jpg
http://i341.photobucket.com/albums/o...2/a261dd9e.jpg
All of these were failed splines. In the picture with the three in a row, you can see how little wear it can fail at.

So like the female output on the TC never fails?

The splines in the case fail similar to the shaft, that is why I make the longer repair ends. Depending on the year of the case there is between 1 1/2"-2 3/4" of good spline in the output coupler.

Got it.
So in theory, on the long run, after you repair the driveshaft end, it will eventually chew the remaining coupler too. Once you get to this point, the female end can be sourced anywhere, so you can replace it?

In theory, by the time it chews the rest of the spline, you'll have sold it by then because your sick of fixing everything else that breaks on them;). I also recommend that the splines are greased upon installation, something the factory did not do. I have not tried to source a coupler, but I would believe that they would be available from whoever the transfer case rebuilders use. Also, by then I'd be pretty sure you'd want a fresh case by then anyways, with that many miles on it.

Wow thanks for all the pics. I thought I read on another thread that you said you have shortened the length of the driveshafts you remanufactor. I ask because with the longer driveshaft you make, there won't be as much room for install and I'll be forced to partially move t-case in order to get it in. So my question is, with the longer shaft is it required to remove the t-case enough to install or is it still short enough to just pop it in like now? Also, I assume yes but you do balance them right?

Only 3/16" shorter because the newer cases are not as deep as the older ones. You will still have to move the case to install. The shafts from the factory are not balanced. I just make sure everything is centered and check the runout on the shaft with a dial indicator. I took one to a local driveshaft shop and he said he had no way to mount it in his balancer. So far no complaints.