Transfer case actuator motor
 

hello, I am going to change the Transfer case actuator motor on my 2006 x5, I am familiar with the removing and re-installing of the unit but need more info on the repair" function done with GT1, I read that you need to delete the value of the classification resistor but don't know how it's done, any info will be appreciated.

new Motor should come with a new classification resister simply code the motor and transfer set the the new calibration via service functions

Thank you for your reply..:thumbup:

Resetting Transfer Case Actuator Classification Resistor without GT1?
 

I have a 2005 BMW X3 with the Brake, 4x4 and ABS lights are on. When the vehicle is shut off the transfer case actuator clicks several times. The front wheels are currently not powered.

I can get the actuator for under $900 on the internet. A repair facility wants $1150 for the repair. It looks like an easy replacement. If I do it myself, how do I reset the resistance values to the new unit?

Thanks,
Jason

It is a easy job, just 4 bolts and two electrical connections, I didn't even have to lift my car, It worked without using GT1 but I activated it just to make sure.

neilrmp, if you don't mind, could you tell me why did you replaced the TC actuator? What were the symptoms? Did you get any fault codes?

TIA

I replaced the actuator motor because there is a plastic gear inside that was stripped, BMW would not sell the gear alone you have to buy the unit, the car can't activate AWD so it turns off the ABS DSC and 4x4, no codes are generated, but GT1 will will let you know it failed. The car goes into 100% rear wheel drive.

Thanks, unfortunately that sounds like my problem.

there was an inexpensive alternative, take the stripped gear out and have it made, I was quoted $65 to $100 to do it. I don't know if it has ever done before but it is possible.

How did you know the gear was stripped? Did you disassemble the actuator? If so, do you have pictures? :)

Yes I did disassembled it and saw the gear, but sorry I din not take pictures, I have the old one I could do it again with pics

If it will take you more than 5 minutes then don't bother. There's only a faint hope that I'll be able to repair it that way.

Yep, I changed the entire unit, I bought it for about $800, it's the best thing to do.

WHAT IS GT1? AND WHAT DOES IT DO..

NEILRMP...COUPLE OF QUESTIONS FOR YOU: TURNS OUT THAT SOMEONE CHANGED MY FLUID AND PUT ATF FLUID IN THE TRANSFER,,,DO YOU THINK THIS WOULD CAUSE THE MOTOR TO FAIL? WHAT IS SO SPECIAL ABOUT THE BMW FLUID $53.00
FLUID?

I know there are replacement fluid which are less expensive than the BMW fluid that work fine, I don't think the fluid will cause the actuator to fail because it is separate from the case itself, the gear is made from a soft plastic, I am guessing that was replaced in the newer models.

I don't think there are alternative transfer case fluids for the x-drive models. Dexron works fine in the non x-drive versions, but the fluid friction characteristics will be specific with the BMW fluid designed for the x-drive case, since there are clutch plates.

It is also important to reset the adaptations after replacing the fluid in an x-drive transfer case. You need a BMW service computer for that. The adaptations interpret how much clutch pressure is required in the transfer case, depending on fluid and clutch plate condition.

IMO, a mistake in either of the above could conceivably cause a problem with the actuator motor, since the vehicle computer is continually controlling he actuator, to modify transfer case clutch pressure, in order to vary the driveline torque.

Jeff, I have the dreaded transmission slam problem. Do you think the two are related? Is there a chance that a new actuator motor will fail again if I continue to have the transmission issue?

My indie scanned my X5 and has come up with transfer case codes twice now in the last few months. He recommended replacing the actuator motor.

Ray,my opinion is that what are generally all lumped together as transmission problems (bumping, slamming, etc) can be caused by engine DME issues, by the transmission itself, or by the transfer case. All the systems are integrated, so a problem in any one can cause a hesitation or hard shift that is usually blamed on the transmission. I think that sometimes it is the transmission, just not necessarily always.

If your mechanic is getting transfer case codes, and the actuator is suspect, I would go ahead and change it. I would check the wiring to the actuator closely. I would change the transfer case fluid at the same time, using the OE fluid. I would also reset the transfer case using the BMW computer, after changing the fluid.

Good luck with it, let us know how it turns out.

Jeff

Just trying to get a handle on what is cause and what is effect. I'd hate to spend >$1k only to address the symptom and not the cause.

Good point about changing the fluid at the same time. Sound advice as usual Jeff, thanks.

The solution seems to be working as an italian company is producing a bronze gear. But the aspect we are trying to investigate is why this happens? Is this a problem coming from the electronic or is it a problem coming from the plastic gear that is not strong enough? definitely the BMW solves the problem in the easy way...change the TC for about 2000 €!!! and no way to have a replacement gear. Is anyone so kind to post a pic from a stripped gear?
PS: are youtalking about ATC400 or ATC500 TC?

ATC 500 in the X5 E53

ATC 400 in the X3 E83.

Ray has an X5.

oK GOT IT! :iagree:
What is your opinion about replacing the stripped gear with another one made of bronze. Here in Italy we have a company that is doing that.

Hmmm.

I suppose it makes some sense, but I would go back to why it is failing. It feels like it is addressing a symptom, instead of the root problem.

If in fact the gear is inherently weak, then I think we would see a lot more failures of these actuators. If the gear strips, it can function like a type of fusible link. Making it stronger may just move the failure point along to the electric motor.

What the actuator is doing is applying pressure to the clutch packs to vary torque output. If it strips, either it is too weak, or the torque is too strong. My gut reaction is that perhaps it is trying too hard to apply pressure, ie the normal pressure isn't sufficient and so it pushes harder, and strips the gear. If that is true, I would be more concerned about why the pressure is not sufficient. Additional pressure would be required if the clutch packs weren't initialized to the controller (which is part of the servicing procedure) or if the clutch plate friction was out of spec (which could be caused by fluid being out of spec, or the adaptations not set correctly). All of those very possible mechanical problems could cause a stripped gear. So when I hear about a stripped gear, I think more about those likely causes, than whether or not a stronger gear is the solution.

That doesn't tell you what to do about a stripped gear, I just don't know. But it does give some background to potential causes for it being stripped, none of which would be solved by replacing it with a bronze gear.

Basically we have the same approach as I would primarily investigate for the reason of the damage, but so far it seems someone had the bronze gear installed but no feedback.
I have been told that the problem is probably due to the fac that during the "set" cycle (when the engine is switched off,the actuator makes one full run open/close with the clutch in order to reset its values) it is required 1/4 of the full power thus forcing the gear.
I do also agree with the idea of the plastic gear being a kind of "fuse" (the idea is already in my marine outboard engine propeller) but it does not make any sense when BMW asks to pay the full transfer case when the fuse blows (crazy way, isn't it? with a very very high cost.
Do you know anything bout the major fault of TC. I mean, is there any evidence that the stripped gear is the main problem?
Regards from Italy :rofl:

The problem is the gear, it's made from an inferior plastic, once the motor is replaced the problem is solved, I would imagine if there was another issue with the transfer case the computer in the car would disable the DSC, ABS and 4x4 to protect the actuator from getting damage.. IMO

You also have to consider how many X5's actually need to activate AWD with significant load to the front wheels. Those of you in milder climates never really put much stress on it. We live in the snow belt with frequent melt/freeze cycles and my neighborhood is very hilly. There are times when the 4x4 light is on almost as often as it is off.

It may be a similar situation to the window regulators. Some have replaced 4 or more and some have never had an issue.

Perhaps I am giving the designers too much credit when I refer to it as a fuse. I could just call it the weakest link. My concern was that if it was stronger, then something else would just fail. I don't think that the case is designed to be serviced (certainly BMW never planned on that) so calling it a fuse suggests it should be a replaceable part, which it isn't by itself.

I don't know enough about the failures to say that the gear is the main problem or not. I just find it interesting that there are not a higher number of actuator failures.

Side question, don't you have an X3 with an ATC 400? Is it presumed to be the same failure mode on both the ATC 400 and ATC 500?

Fair point. But isn't the 4x4 light a function of traction, and DSC intervening, more than an indication of transfer case torque shift front/rear? I wonder how load on the actuator motor varies with torque adjustments.

As to the window regulators, I don't think they fail by use. I think they fail by closing the doors with the windows down. The windows are not well supported in that postion, and slamming the door puts stress on the clip. You wouldn't have to have them all the way up, but if they are even up 1", the window glass is supported better. Never failed a window regulator here.

Yes, there's a lot of things potentially going on when that light comes on. If it comes on at low speed on snow or ice it's most likely traction control kicking in and transferring power to the front as well as of braking to slow the spinning side. At least that's how I understand how it works.

I've replaced the window regulator twice on my E46. Both times it was the front passenger side which doesn't get much use. It's possible that the passenger side door was more prone to being closed with the window down because I'm dropping somebody off rather than locking the car if I'm getting out myself. I haven't had to replace any on the X5. My wife drives it mostly and she hates having the windows down. You may be on to something with your theory.

AFAIK you are correct: the lights are not meaning that a transfer of traction is going on BUT some control from the electronic over the traction "system" ( I hope I make myself clear).
The 4wheel traction is not an option you can select or de-select.
I do not know how much torque the electric motor is applying to the plastic gear and then to the other parts of the mech chain. But it seems pretty logical to me that this is the weakiest part of the transmission "train". Maybe I am to quick with my conclusion but I tend to believe the gear is the problem. The problem is that the gear is not an available spare part so the owner only solution is to have the full assembly replaced with high cost. So far I never heard about a real mechanical failure of the transfer case. In the italian forums there are some cases that have been simply solved with TC replacement without knowing the real problem.

I forgot: is anybody willing to post a good pic form a TC gear (a good one and a stripped one)

PS: actuator is the same on ATC400 and 500. Book says only difference is one more clutch disk for the ATC 500.

Isn't the gear within the actuator? And the actuator is a listed spare part? Is the whole assembly you are referring to the actuator motor assembly, or the transfer case assembly?

the gear is into/with the actuator (and it is NOT a service part)...and the complete actuator assembly is - off course - an expensive spare part.
We had another community member who solved the problem with a one hour job of taking off the actuator assebly and put it back with the bronze gear. Reset of software..problem solved...
Total cost 230 € (recicled assembly with bronze gear)

Photo of TC Actuator motor for E53
 

Here is a photo of the TC Actuator motor for E53 showing the plastic gear. I found this on 4wheelsautoparts.com who carry a lot of genuine replacement parts.
I went searching because I am having the same problems described with my 2004 X5. My local dealer says that I have to replace the actuator motor but I'm seriously considering having the gear built of bronze or similar material.

Can any one help!!!
I have a 2006 X5 and my Actuator motor has also packed up. The main dealer is advising after charging me to view the fault that i need a new Transfer Case at a cost with labour around £3000.
As the car is less than 6 years old and has only done 66K miles do you think it would be wise to take them to the small claims court?

Mark

Actuator photos
 

I just got around to changing my actuator on my 2004 X5 3.0d and couldn't help but do a full "autopsy" to determine the "cause of death":D.
Thanks to Neilrmp, I found out exactly where I should start.
The photos that I attached show the actuator with the covering plate and oil seal removed and also with the electric motor removed to expose the working surface of the gear ring. It appears that the worm gear shaft on the motor wears away the surface of the gear ring after some time.
I feel some sense of closure now that I have seen exactly what has caused this failure.
Maybe BMW should choose materials that take a longer time to wear out or at the very least produce a more affordable replacement option.

I was happy to help, is the X in T&T?, if yes, I will bring my GT1 down when I am coming on vacation, maybe I can help some guys with Bimmers.. who don't have access to it.

My X5 is one of many E53s here in T&T and there are many E70s as well.
I am certain that there are guys who would welcome any assistance/advice from you when you come on vacation.
Are you of T&T heritage?

yes I am from San Fernando, I will be in touch before I come.

Great!!
I'm in Dabadie.
Nice to make your acquaintance.

Ok kool, same here.

Hi everyone. I changes my actuator motor in my X3, last weekend. Is very simple.

Just remove one 10mm bolt of heat shield, from driver's side, pull it a little bit down.

I removed 4 x 13mm bolts from suspension of tranfer case, but before I put hydraulic jack under transfer case. After remove bolts I release a little beat jack.

Now I can remove 4 inverted torx from actuator motor. Release resistor connector and main plug.

Mount all in reverse order and code it in special funtions, gear box, reapir on GT1/DIS and code new actuator motor.

It works fine!

Any question, please tell me.

PS- sorry about my english.

My actuator seal is leaking, but the part hasn't failed. I have 100k extended warranty and they won't cover replacement due to seal leakage only. I have 11k miles until the warranty expires. I hope mine strips out prior.

same here, won't cover because of leakage and quote me 1200

take it off and strip it manually. there you go.

what would cause oil leak? i'm going to the dealer to cause havoc! any ideas what i can argue about?

Let me know if the dealer gives in or how you "modify" it. I thought about stripping the plastic cog wheel.

Leaks aren't covered by your warranty policy. If you take it off and destroy it, it is pretty easy to tell that is has been off, just from the marks on the bolts.

Do you honestly want to try and commit fraud and see if the dealer calls you out?

At worst, you can go yo junkies if it fails. What could used part cost? 200$ maybe?

My AC compressor failed and I had the X into my regular dealers service department (replacing under warranty, but waiting for it from Europe). I mentioned I noticed oil where I parked and asked them to take a look. They found the leaky actuator on their own and replaced it under my 100K factory extended warranty.

So how can one dealer say no it isn't covered and another replaced it - no questions asked?

Just guessing here, but either they thought it was covered and won't get reimbursed by BMW when they submit their claim, or they described the failure differently in order to get paid. That strategy only works until they get caught.

I just had this same problem.
 

I have a 2005 X5 4.4i which just turned over 120k. Last week I had the 4x4 light come on followed by the Brake and ABS. I noticed that when I switched the vehicle off, I heard a distinct knocking sound coming from under the car for a few seconds, like the sound of a stripped gear.

So, I took the transfer case actuator off the vehicle, partially disassembled it to the point of pulling the worm gear out, and noticed that "the gear" was indeed stripped, just like discussed above. I also noticed that it was only stripped on about half of the teeth, all on one side. The other half of the gear looked like it had never been touched. I'm not certain, but it appears to me that the actuator only utilizes half of the gear or only 180 degrees.

I turned the stripped gear 180 degrees and reinstalled it on the transfer case. Only time will tell if this will last me another 120k, but it did fix the 4x4, Brake and ABS lights. No codes, no warnings and it didn't cost me a dime.

I'll let you all know if this holds up, but so far, so good.

I did the same, it lasted about two months, when you accelerate aggressively it slips, then after time strips again..

Hello all. I recently had a TF case malfunction. I changed the actuator and it solved the problem. ( Thanks to a lot of help from Martin-C and this thread).Upon inspection I noticed the same wear pattern on the plastic gear. Now, I understand (somewhat) that this gear is responsible for engaging the multi-plate clutch assembly in the TFC. When it slips or becomes worn, the clutches no longer have sufficient axial force to transfer the torque from input to output. When I switched off/on, the code cleared. When I started it remained off. If I start, don't move, and then switch off, I hear a ticking noise coming from the actuator. When I pulled off I felt the car slip maybe once or twice followed by the trouble code (after which there was no slipping or lurching). This slipping may be caused by the actuator not pushing the clutches together sufficently.
Moving along in diagnosis without GT1 etc, I unplugged the actuator harness and there was no slipping at all as all the power goes straight to the rear without the TFC engaging. Bit the bullet and bought the actuator. It worked. Hope this helps fellow users.

ToddL, I just fix the actuator on my 2006 X5 with 85362 miles using the same technique as you did, can you please tell me if your still works good and how many miles since you fix it.

Thank you

Gabriel, it has only been a few weeks, but no problems so far. I had a comment from another member that said he tried this fix and it only lasted him a couple of months. I'll run it as long as it lasts, but if it strips again I guess i'll be buying a new unit. Good luck with it.

Thank you ToddL, I drove mine today is working fine. I check on the junkyards but they want to much money for an used one ($485-560), for that I will buy it new, ECS Tanning $720.00, one aging thank you and every one that post in this thread.

Is there anyone that can make that gear out of brass so that we poor souls don't have to drop a fortune on an otherwise fine unit.

I drove mine for a couple months before repairing it, your car will be in 100% rear wheel drive without ABS, and I notice my rear brake pads wore out very quickly.

Anytime.

Replacement part for bmw transfer case actuator motor
 

Hi all,
if anyone need a replacement gear kit for BMW X transfer case motor actuator i'll produce it and i can ship to anyone from Italy.

Thanks

How much. If the price is decent, I'll buy one right now, even though mine isn't broken.

Price is 269$ plus shipment 24$ by economy italian post office (REGISTERED LETTER) or 55$ by Fedex. All shipment have tracking number.
Payment secure by Paypal.
Instructions e guide include on kit.

Material: bronze alloy + noble metals in different %
With my guide you don't need specific seal, just my kit is complete to repair your motor actuator.

Cldchc, do you have this part on eBay under the item number 130632900391.

Thank you

that's mine kit.
This kit was tested from 2011, work perfect.

Thanks

Since switching my 17 inch winter wheels to my summer staggered 19s (with the correct size tires and OE spec Turanzas), I now notice a grinding and slight whiring on hard acceleration from a rolling start. Can't hear anything at highway speeds and shifting seems fine, no rpm surges or anything. No codes.

My indie noted that the actuator motor seal is leaking and that the symptoms are of the actuator failing. Is this plausible?

I wasnt getting the grinding, but I was getting a funny type of whiring when accelerating.. about 4-6 months later, i got the dreaded yellow 4x4, yellow ABS and red brake lights..

Still waiting to get my car back (been in the shop for nearly 2 weeks), but it looks as though the actuator is/was the culprit...

Got one from this guy for about $130, received it today looks little plasticky. I will keep you informed. Putting it tonight.
Odometer Gears

Wife was driving the car today and rang me to tell me 3 warning lights had come on and car making a loud clicking sound when she turned it off. I done a bit of reading in the book in the car and then got her to start the car and turn it off.Traced the clicking noise back to the actuator.I then remembered about reading about this on the forum,I am just about to pull it off and turn the gear.I have also just ordered a new gear from odometer gears hopefully will arrive before Xmas and I will fit before our annual holiday.This forum has saved me $$$$ with the tips I have read about repairs.I like to do everything myself and hopefully will never have to visit the dealer.Sounds like I may need to get the adaption values reset.Can this only be done by the dealer ? what tooling etc is required to do it yourself ??

Oh well ,I have taken it off and stripped the actuator assembly,about 10 teeth were stripped so I gave it a thorough clean out ,re-greased it and put the gear back in 180 deg .Re-fitted and tested all good until the new gear arrives.Thanks Xoutpost.com members.

I am still running on my flipped gear. I have also been drifting in the snow, so far, so good.

is this a pre-Xdrive transfer case issue as well? I'm not hearing any grinding or weird clicks, but my car whirrs like a helicopter sometimes, almost like harmonics from under the car. I know the 3.0 is noisy, and I'm attributing it to wheel balance for now.

when i get roadforce balance and alignment i will report if the noises have lessened, just wondering if this is something i need to worry about.

No this is an X drive thing only. Check your oil in the transfer case, maybe low.

I posted in the other thread, maybe wheel bearings, my mechanic is checking it out when he balances and aligns me this weekend. I sure hope its not bearings I have 66k miles.


Transfer case is good to go! Oil has been changed recently and no noises from there, I just was hoping not to add a transfer case issue to the list of upcoming maintenance!

you will need access to GT1 to do the "Repair function", the actuator will work but it is not recommended, it may also be a good time to replace the transfer case oil. adaptation need to be done when you change the oil.

You got snow? Crap; I'm still waiting. (it's in the mtns, tho')

Is GT1 only a dealer tool or something anyone can purchase ? Is this the only tool to do this or is something else available ? And if so where can you purchase and how many $$$.I changed the oil 10,000k ago but did not get the values reset .I changed all the oils when I purchased the car, differentials,transfer box and transmission along with the engine oil of course.

You can get GT1 native on a IBM T30 laptop with yellow head, it's a little $$$, or you can run a (VM) virtual machine on a laptop with a different cable for a lot less. There are lots of great post here.


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We got some right after sandy.

I replaced my transfer case servomotor gear with a new one from Odometer Gears today. At about 85k miles it appears I didn't need to yet, as it only had 8 teeth with any sort of wear. The wear was from about 12:30 to 2:00 on the gear. I would expect rotating 180 degrees would have been sufficient, but I was already in there. See the photo for the new one versus old one.

If someone wants to buy my "gently used" original gear, let me know via PM.

I did notice 3 radial cracks starting on the white gear that mates with the dark grey one. That appears to be a different failure mode. Somewhere I saw someone press a metal sleeve over the white hub to prevent the gear from splitting into pieces.

I have recieved my new gear from odometer gears but yet to fit it,will do it in the next few days and yes my white gear had the same three radial cracks as yours.

I was concerned about twisting the metal plate and as a result the rubber molded seal on the back side not sealing the aluminum housing. As such I used a Dremel cut-off wheel to grind away all the pressed in areas of the aluminum housing. After doing so the metal plate popped out with minimal force.

I also applied a thin line of RTV sealant around the perimeter when I was done with re-assembly.

I had thie part replaced on my X about a year ago. I kinda wish now that the X had a switch/option where you could switch the power to be 100% at the rear only (for good weather condition driving of course) as I feel that would make the truck a lot of fun on a different level.
I pondered leaving the stepper motor broken for a few months, but it happen to GO in the middle of our winter here, and I bought the X to deal with the winter/snow here :( Glad I bought it though. Love the heck out of it. If it had of stopped in summer, there would be no way I'd fix it until winter. I'd love a rear wheel drive X5 (as long as no other systems were negatively affected * taking note of the ABS/DSC systems being deactivated)

The only issue I had with the 100% rear wheel drive is my rear brake pads wearing faster than usual.



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I wonder if. Simple switch could be installed to turn the awd system on and ofc so it was jus rear wheel drive? Hmmmm

OK I know this is an old thread, but please don't yell at me. I have a problem and I need an answer by tomorrow morning, so please allow me to ask.

I have discovered a faulty connector to the resistor on my transfer case actuator motor. The connector is broken and the wires some times make contact but some times they do not. So I get an error in my error memory.

A local BMW shop has a new resistor and they are going to replace it for me, but I've read somewhere, that the resistor has to be programmed in the car, using DIS/GT1. Unfortunately, the electrician of that shop is on vacation and the owner told me that programming the resistor is NOT necessary.

For those of you who have changed your resistor or your actuator motor, how important is the programming of the resistor in the car? In other words, what will happen if the resistor is not programmed?

Many thanks for your attention and sorry for reviving an old thread.

Yes, you have to reprogram the transfer Case using the Service mode under DIS/GT1 so that the clutches and motor recalibrate correctly.

If you don't, and the new resistor is very different value from the previous, overtime, you will possibly do damage to the clutch pack.

When the "shop" changed my actuator (inc resistor), they said they had "programmed" it which after driving for several miles, found even though it is a new resistor/actuator, I was still in two wheel drive as the clutches weren't engaging correctly. I also got Resistor Calibration Error codes. I ran the routine under DIS and it recalibrated correctly.

I know people on this forum say you don't need to (and you definitely don't if you use the same actuator motor and resistor), but if the BMW TIS Manual states it does, and from my experience, I definitely suggest you get it done.

:iagree:

I would say it is important to calibrate it. If the calibration is incorrect, too much actuation would stress and or break the actuator gear, and too little would cause excessive slip in the clutch pack. Both are avoidable by doing the repair properly.

OK guys thanks. I'll try to have the existing connection repaired until the electrician is back, and then I'll changed the resistor and have him program it.

Thanks again!!

OK guys, I temporarily fixed my resistor connector and the car is running fine (no error codes shown by INPA/Ediabas in the transfer case.

I also bought a new resistor, but I'll wait until the electrician returns from his vacation, to have it installed.

For those of you who have done it, and just in case the electrician doesn't know how to do it, could you please describe the steps necessary to do the calibration with the new resistor for me? I would appreciate that very much.

Thanks again for your input.

If your service guy doesn't know how to do it, he shouldn't be messing with it.


I don't have the manual, but see this thread for some more info. ECS was selling the fluid, and several of us felt that there really should be a reminder to people to do it properly, and not ignore the reset procedure:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...available.html

See this thread, starting at post #14, and the attachments in post #20:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...sfer-case.html

Note that resetting the adaptations is the procedure to be done after changing the fluid. That is a separate and distinct procedure from the programming involving a new classification resistor.

Edit: In the parts catalog, the resistor is sold as a set. That implies that it may come with a number of resistors of different values. The BMW service procedure describes putting the actuator on a bench test when it is made, and matching the resistor to the actuator. So, it will be interesting if there are multiple resistors and it becomes necessary to determine which one to use (they compensate for different amounts of play in the actuator and clutch pack). Or, there may be one resistor, but that begs the question of why it would need to be a separate part and not part of the actuator then. Let us know what you find out.

Interesting. And you are obviously right, since the realoem.com site indicates for the resistor, that they are a set!!

Am I correct in assuming that I should buy a set and use the one whose resistance value is closer to the one currently in my car?

OK, this is becoming more and more strange. According to the local shop here, the actuator motor is sold with a resistor on it, as a package. Now during assembly of the car, the resistor is selected based on the tolerances etc of the transfer case clutch package, how on earth do they select which resistor to use, on the spare parts actuator motor??

The value of the resistor that came with the actuator motor, has to be encoded back after deleting the old value using GT1, for instance it may show up in GT1 as class B and the old one was class C, it is important to the life of your tranfere case, you should change the oil also at the same time, and do new adaptation so everything works great, I did mine a couple years ago and had no problem up to the sale of my car.


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That is exactly what I would do myself, assuming that you get a selection of various resistance values when you order the part.