Door Sensor and Window Issues
 

Wife called me to tell me that none of the windows would go down. I was on the road at the time when she called so I checked it out last night when I got home.

I was able to get the Front Driver window to go down and the Front Passenger to go down (only at the passenger switch). Neither back window goes down (with or with out the window lock activated).

Last night she also told me the driver lock stopped working. So I did some more checking.

I found that the interior lights don't go on when I open the driver door and I don't get a chime if I leave the keys in the ignition with the door open.

I've checked the window and central locking fuses.

I'm probably going to reset the cpu with d/c'ing the battery and if that fails taking the interior panel off to check the connections to the switches in the door.

Any other thoughts? Other fuses and/or is it just the door sensor that is hosing me up?

update: I can control the Driver mirror, but not the Passenger mirror. It's like my X had a stroke.

Checked the 3 fuses that are all associated with the mirrors, central locking and windows...they seem to be good. Doing a 30 min battery reset now.

It's too bad cars don't have a 'reset' button.

update 2: battery reset failed. checking connections to window control switch on drivers side failed. fused 20,24 and 60 look good. I did the fuses one at a time and 20 controlled the driver front, 24 controlled passenger front. I might just replace all 3 anyway.

anything else anyone can think of?

Sounds like you are having changing levels of problems with more than one component... with the only coincidence being that they are both in the same door. I'd check the main plug connection to the drivers door for any signs of water ingress and/or corrosion. It is in the door jamb right under the upper hinge and unbolts with a 10mm.

Thanks, Weasel

There is a bit a corrosion, and now an airbag light as I forgot I had the key at position 1. I'm spraying some electric cleaner in to clean it out. We'll see what happens. Any thoughts on it just being the switch? Ekvals had a similar issues and the switch fixed it.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...iver-side.html

I guess that means a dealer/indy visit now.

Here's an update.

1. All windows work from their respect switches now. Just can't control passenger and rear windows from driver console.
2. Driver door will not engage/disengage with remote and/or with middle switch/driving (actuator was replaced in fall and would be under a part warranty from stealer)
3. Interior lights will not go on when driver door opens (related to #2?)
4. Alarm will not arm (related to #2?)
5. Little corrosion at main plug...same as when dealer saw it 2 years ago

Unintended consequence, set off airbag light.

I can get a new switch from Tischer for $100 and probably return it minus restocking if it didn't work out.

The thing with the corrosion being there is you don't know how good or bad a connection each pin has... and the resistance will fluctuate with different conditions. I'd clean that plug out the best you can and try to restore as much of the connection quality as you possibly can. Remember that almost nothing on BMWs are regular 12v switched circuits. The window switch signals are low voltage square wave signals via can bus connection, so a bad connection due to extra resistance can REALLY fuck with things! Maybe you can use a solvent type of stuff to aid in cleaning it out like battery post corrosion cleaner spray then while it is wet with that plug/unplug it a bunch of times to help wipe the pins clean, then clean it out with contact cleaner and dry with compressed air. Definitely worth doing before ordering $100 worth of parts.

No dice on the pin/receptor cleaning. It did the job with cleaning, but still doesn't function correctly. Do you think the switch is the next logical route?

Could be, it would be really easy to figure out if you know someone else with an X5 to try swapping switches with. Looking at the linked thread in post #5 did you check the plug connection to the switch pack yet?

Went the route getting a used switch from the boneyard...no dice. I also plugged in my old door actuator just for fun...that didn't do anything either. Took apart the harness at the door again and noticed what may be a broken pin. See pics. I know I could do the the harness in the door but I'm not sure what would be involved in replacing the harness on the car side.

Of all my 'issues' i've had with the car, this upsets me the most as it's a non-moving part that just falls apart.

So, it will be going to dealer or maybe an Indy on Thursday....unless I can do the door side myself.

Yeah, that's a lot of dirty corroded contacts! I'd maybe change out the door side yourself, and you can change out the pins individually on the vehicle side if you are pretty good with wiring and have the proper tools. The way to do it would involve non-insulated crimps of the right diameter and heat shrink tubing, and the right pin release tool for the connector. Maybe see how much the dealer would want to change out the pins on the body side and you do the door side harness?

Thanks so much for your assistance.

Most of what you see if the battery cleaner...it was so cold in my garage that it was freezing on contact.

I'm pretty handy with electrical so it doesn't necessarily scare me but time and the weather is some what of a factor. However, I'm missing the concept of changing the pins. Are you saying to splice in a new harness? Where would I get a new pin from?

If I can get the broken pin out of the connector, I might leave the door side alone...aside from getting the frozen/dried battery cleaner out of pin holes.

You can buy those exact pins from the dealer with about 18" of wire attached to it. You just release the locking tabs on the connector housing and use the appropriate pin release tool and it pops out. Splice in the new wire/pin and pop it in to the connector. It is actually a BMW authorized repair under warranty for us in the shhop to properly splice in new pins vs replacing the whole harness.

Fixed

$540 for service....$35 in misc parts and $25 in shop parts, rest labor replacing 5 pins and making sure it's water tight.

They lowered the car incorrectly so now I have jack it back up and fix my front light sensors. They also didn't snap the door back on tight and I had to snap at least two connectors in myself.

but at least it's fixed.

Thanks Weasel, without your help, I couldn't have directed them right to harness.

Glad to help. :thumbup:

Sound like your GCM. It's located behind the glove box, generally when the GCM starts having problems you get exactly what you are expirencing. Not just one thing goes wrong, it's one after another or all at once.

don't know if this falls into your category of causes for this problem but hear it is.my passenger side rear window will not unlock unless i do it manually from the handle.it happened when i first got the car.then stopped when i switched out the battery and then just randomly started happening again.i ended up disconnecting the battery to do some radio work also hoping it could get that lock working again.no luck.i also managed to set off the air bag light in the process.any ideas as to whats going on?

Passenger side rear window, or passenger side rear door?

If it is the door lock that won't unlock, it is likely the actuator. See this thread:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-actuator.html

Sames locking and window issues as you
 

Hi,

Just read your post. I have exactly the same issue as you had in that the drivers side switches will not operate the passenger and rear windows anymore. The drivers side window and mirror works, but not the passenger mirror, I had just replaced the actuator iin the drivers door about a week ago, and everything worked for about a week. The Drivers door will not lock anymore.
Now back to square one and worse !!
I have check the door pillar connections, and they seem good. I have taken apart the driver side switch console, but nothing obvious in there.

Did you manage to fix your problem ? I would be keen to hear your final outcome.

Also, I have found this, and considering giving it ago, as a last resort............
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=b0zT2UtEU88

Sorry for the late response....yes, it fixed it.

I had the pins rebuilt that were corroded by the dealership ~$300 or so.

Did you find the issue?

Central Door Locking issue
 

Hi,

Firstly, yes, fixing the wire in the door pillar fixed mine.
I would suggest double or triple checking the wires in the door pillar again. A wire may look as though it is OK, but may be electrically not. I had mine apart several times, and all looked OK. Gently pull each wire in case the conductor has broken inside the insulation.
The other thing I did as a matter of course was replace my Drivers side switch module, as my right rear window was still not working with the old module in place. I only had this because I had already bought it, thinking it was the original problem.
I also looked into the relay replacement in the GM3 module, and in fact bought the necessary relays. I almost delved into it, but was not confident that my soldering iron would be hot enough to do the job. I would say this is a last resort.
If it is just your central locking on the drivers door not working now, it maybe the locking actuator. I have also replaced this in my car previously !
If it still has the other gremlins with window and mirror issues, then I bet it is a broken control wire, similar to mine. This control wire sends a signal from the GM3 module to the Drivers Side switch module for opening/closing windows and doors, and moving the mirror.

Good luck, and keep the thread in the loop !

Glad I found this thread as I have the same issue. right side window sometimes does not go down using master switch. Then when I open the right door it works. How do I get to the door piller loom connector? Any pictures?

Sorry, missed the 10mm bolt sentence. Shouldn’t be too hard to work out. cheers

if you need parts check them out my brother in law works I buy all my parts from him at north side imports genuine bmw parts and hella cheap
https://www.northsideimports.com/
ask for adam might be worth it