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-   -   What did you do to / for your E53 today?? (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/78921-what-did-you-do-your-e53-today.html)

crystalworks 07-20-2021 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bdc101 (Post 1207053)
Is that true? Is there really a rear weight bias on the E53?

Sounds right for a 3.0i. I'm guessing no servotronic and associated other components, plus added weight of the V8s, that could add weight to the front axle for closer to 50/50.

From another forum:

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveT
BMW always strives to be near 50/50. The X5 (based on the latest brochure) is 48.1/51.9 (F/R) 3.0 Auto, 48.6/51.4 3.0 Manual and 49.7/50.3 4.4 Auto.


andrewwynn 07-20-2021 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bdc101 (Post 1207053)
Is that true? Is there really a rear weight bias on the E53?



Also, I agree, there will be a big safety factor on the quickjack. I am sure the 5k load limit is just the ability of the lift to pick up that much weight.


Those are all actual weights taken off my e53. And yes definitely rear weight bias. For me my usual weight distribution is 1200 front corner and 1600 rear corner.

I have run the tires 32/39 like the door plate suggests which gets me 1200/32=37.5 in.² and 1600/39=41 in.² contact patches. I just installed brand new tires and with the way I drive I tend to scrub the outer edge of front tires I think I'm going to add a smidge of air.

1200/36=33.333 psi
1600/40=40 psi

1600/32=50 in.² (nine more in.²). Prob would be good for acceleration but not great for tread wear.

crystalworks 07-20-2021 02:26 PM

6 Attachment(s)
This weekend saw Archer (Mouse's X5) ~165k miles and Red ~126k miles getting oil changes and full trans servicing. Both vehicles took 7.5 liters of Valvoline Maxlife Multivehicle to fill after replacing the tube seals, bridge seals, and filters. Both trucks exhibited the 2-1-2 gear slam when slow rolling stop signs or stop lights. Of course we both drove around the issues to avoid it so as not to any damage to the trans. Some gear shifting delay was also present. As of now it seems both transmissions have been restored to normal operation. After resetting all adaptations (clutch pressures) shifting has been smooth and quick. :thumbup: :cool:

Attachment 80618

Attachment 80619

Pic shows Liqui Moly in front of Archer but we used the Valvoline Maxlife.

Attachment 80620

Here's what Archer's fluid looked like. I believe he has ~50k miles on it. Previous owner had a drain/fill done but I don't think they did anything else. Looks pretty clean and the magnets just had a fine film on them. Nothing to worry about. My fluid looked a little dirtier. Fortunately though it also did not have any metallic flakes/swirls in the fluid. Didn't grab a pic of mine but do have a video of it.

Attachment 80617

And for fun I took a couple of shots of my rather complicated exhaust setup. :D I'd like to remove the resonator, add an X pipe, and dumps from the cutouts to simplify things in the near future.

Attachment 80621

Attachment 80622

Happy 07-20-2021 02:38 PM

Oh boy! ReD is surely shining! :2thumbs:

BigLion 07-22-2021 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EODguy (Post 1206932)
Fixed a flat (RR), ordered new rear latch/lamp assembly and then on the way home my MAF shit the bed so I had turn around and pick up a new one.
[emoji849][emoji849][emoji849]

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Yep - this seems to be the attitude of my car recently - "hooman fix something - me go boom!!"... I did a full set of BMW spark plugs on Sunday (it's a working day here) and crawled through traffic for three hours to get home - *literally* the next day I drove it round the block and it did the wacky instrument cluster thing and shouted *TRANS FAILSAFE*! *ENGINE FAILSAFE*!! - from experience I knew this is a weak battery thing (the AC also dying) - so I pulled back into the garage, all the way in 3rd, you know how it is...

Alternator was running 14.1V thank goodness, so with the new battery we're done - for now.

Kinda scared me for a second, though...

EODguy 07-22-2021 01:38 AM

I hear you and I guess I should be happy when things show up in clusters because if it was say... an issue each week then the White Witch would never move and I couldn't hide that from the wife!![emoji15]

The Sunday through Thursday work week only bugs me when I have to try and deal with crap Stateside and the day change along with the time difference makes it less than conducive to speedy resolutions....

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

BigLion 07-22-2021 04:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EODguy (Post 1207159)
I hear you and I guess I should be happy when things show up in clusters because if it was say... an issue each week then the White Witch would never move and I couldn't hide that from the wife!![emoji15]

The Sunday through Thursday work week only bugs me when I have to try and deal with crap Stateside and the day change along with the time difference makes it less than conducive to speedy resolutions....

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

The attitude to old cars here being what it is, if I swapped Burly I'd end up with like a med-hi mileage Camry or Altima or some sh!t, as my only car! The cars which can do high mileage here still go for big dollars cos the locals want to and can afford to buy them at a ridiculous price. Nissan Patrol Super Safaris and Lexus LS 430s still go for 50,000 AED ($14,000) when they've done 200,000 Km (125,000 miles). I gotta keep on, because compared to the crazy maintenance schedule, the insurance and registration costs nothing. A newer car would cost more every year, and as I say, I'm priced out of the market for a low maintenance car!

It's not bad having the NYSE opening at 5:30 PM local time, but kind of weird trading on a Friday which is the big religious weekend day...

LA02MAX 07-22-2021 10:05 AM

Disassembled the front hubs/wheel bearings. That was fun! Also got the last few parts from FCP Euro before putting the car back together. The front end will have new rotors/pads, wheel bearings, hubs, associated hardware including dust shields, end links, inner and outer steering tie rods, and control arm ball joints (the remaining bushings/ball joints looked to be recently replaced). Looking forward to feeling how it drives after this!

Next step will be the rear subframe bushings. I already have them + the press tool.

Henn28 07-22-2021 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LA02MAX (Post 1207173)
Disassembled the front hubs/wheel bearings. That was fun! Also got the last few parts from FCP Euro before putting the car back together. The front end will have new rotors/pads, wheel bearings, hubs, associated hardware including dust shields, end links, inner and outer steering tie rods, and control arm ball joints (the remaining bushings/ball joints looked to be recently replaced). Looking forward to feeling how it drives after this!

Next step will be the rear subframe bushings. I already have them + the press tool.

Now that’s some work! Nice job.
I spent today wrapping up the days of window regulator, clip and door panel surgery. Both front windows were shot and I have had a stick holding one closed for too long. A new regulator on the right side and new clips on both sides.

The panels have begun to fail internally…old glue failing and the plastic bits that hold the retainer clips stay on the door unfortunately. The JB Weld formula for plastic sets in 15 minutes and seems to work the best. Gorilla glue and Liquid Nails have failed miserably on me in previous attempts.

I have never been able to eliminate the rattle that comes with closing a front door with the window down, or down at least 75 ish percent. I know it’s the glass rattling against the regulator, or something else, but I can’t get it to stop. Anyone else experience this? Maybe I’ve been installing something wrong all these years.

I also bought a motor for my project.

Happy 07-23-2021 01:56 AM

Moved her over a bit. :D


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