Xoutpost.com - What did you do to / for your E53 today??

Xoutpost.com (https://xoutpost.com/forums.php)

- X5 (E53) Forum (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/)

- - What did you do to / for your E53 today?? (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/78921-what-did-you-do-your-e53-today.html)

Unless the ball joints are shot or you lowered, you can get into spec. Spec ranges well into "that looks broken" however. Measure the angle with a phone app that does 1/10 degrees or take a photo from far behind car lined up directly with each tire outer edge and you can use Photoshop to measure the exact angle.

As long as toe is good it won't wear the tires. I have a few thousand miles on my new tires and with 1.6° camber they are exactly the same wear edge to edge.

The fronts are wearing a bit faster I'm going to swap front and back for a while and maybe before the snow comes swap left and right to address some asymmetrical tread block wear before it gets bad.

(The trailing edge of the blocks is wearing faster than the leading edge; I'd like to get that to wear more evenly but with asymmetric tires that's very not ok for driving in rain or snow!)

Its stock. He said the adjustment was max'd out and even looked for a camber kit but couldn't find one.

Just noticed the caster on the driver side is out of spec. Looks like caster wasn't touched on either side. I'll have to talk to him about that.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...59f577c3_z.jpg

It is not unusual for suspension components to wear out around the same mileage. I suspect something else is worn out and needs to be replaced before it can be aligned within specs. The shop should have been able to point out why if could not be aligned properly.

AFAIK no caster adjust on e53

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Quote:

Originally Posted by zener (Post 1213139)

In progress valve stem seals, lifters, repaired vanos, spark plugs,valve cover gasket....

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OE...Ow1x2vzrA=w768

Got it done, runs silky smooth now and pulls more nicely with working vanos. Valve cover was cracked from two places, so gotta replace that soon.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hH...mRptZ7nxg=w768
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/be...bpNT6KSLw=w768

Timing was little off...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L...IXQ4hdm_Q=w768

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcredliner (Post 1213141)

Does the water temp gauge read normal at operating temp. Also clear the memory. You will have to drive it until the oil reaches operating temp and do some hard acceleration, uphill if possible. Then check for what codes return.

The water temp gauge never seems to move - it's always at 'normal'; the engine oil temp is taking longer to reach operating temperature from a cold start, and always shows just less than 100C

Last night I cleared the codes and this is what I got by the time I reached home after work today;

Variant: ME9N62_2 5 Error in error memory
Error registration 1 : 0x2EF5: CDKETS 2EF5 - Kennfeldthermostat, Ansteuerung <<<<!!!
Error accurances: CDKETS 2EF5 - Kennfeldthermostat, Ansteuerung
Error code: 2E F5 64

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Error registration 2 : 0x2F71: CDKELS 2F71 - E-Box-Lüfter, Ansteuerung <<<<!!!
Error accurances: CDKELS 2F71 - E-Box-Lüfter, Ansteuerung
Error code: 2F 71 62

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Error registration 3 : 0x2EF4: CDKTHS 2EF4 - Kennfeldthermostat, Mechanik <<<<!!!
Error accurances: CDKTHS 2EF4 - Kennfeldthermostat, Mechanik
Error code: 2E F4 42

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

so, less than before; minus the fan control error, but still getting errors from the thermostat.

There was a small leak of water when it has been standing in the garage for a few hours - there was a puddle located beneath the expansion tank side, but the tank didn't appear to be wet... again a damp smell when I started it up.

Looks like at least part of the problem is the thermostat. I suggest removing the expansion tank cap. Have someone cold start the engine. If thermostat is stuck open fluid should start circulating right away.

Could you tell where the water came from? You use water in cooling system?

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcredliner (Post 1213202)

I'll let my daughter start it tomorrow morning - today she noticed there was some vapour from the exhaust on startup, so I guess the lid's gotta come off the engine ASAP...

Funnily enough, I couldn't find the drip under the car at all - something very transient that just dried up to the touch after a few hours. I'm putting regular tap water in for now as it's still leaking, but will go to distilled when it's all sealed. There was a fair bit of limescale behind the water pump when it came off in September!

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1213136)

I get the best mpg at about 70-73 level highway. The 3.0 seems to have maximum efficiency about 2500 rpm in my case. On the afformentioned trip, 2/3 of the trip is 70 speed limit but also with plentiful elevation changes.

:iagree:

I found 2500 RPM to be the magic number also. One trip from San Antonio to Arlington yielded 26mpg. It was about 65 degrees F so no A/C was needed, and I had a slight tailwind of about 8mph. I typically observed 22-23 mpg as long as I kept speed below 75mph on other trips.

Good to see you back around Steve! :thumbup: