Newbie- hello everybody
 

Hiya everybody

Im proud to say ive just got my first X5 e53 3.0d sport, just wish i knew the exact mpg before i bought it

it said on the sale pitch and book said FSH, but if the oil was changed 400miles ago i would expect to see nice oil, not the black thats on the dip stick

ive got a little issue though with the idleing, once ive really given the engine a good flooring, the engine will "miss" and cause the car to shudder. this sorts itself out after aprox 1-2min, when my g/f drives the car (responsibly) the problem never happens

ive got a few ideas but just really wanted all you experts opinion, im a plumber and not a mechanic by any mean strech.

i got a copy of the TIS and going to try and attempt a insp11 on my own, is this wise??

The colour of the engine oil doesn't mean anything, with a diesel you can expect to see black oil immediately after changing it.

Powers1 would be a great resource to comment on the idling issue. He is pretty familiar with that engine.

The Inspection I and Inspection II can be done yourself, but the caution is whether you know what you are looking for. They are really just a thorough going-over to make sure everything is OK. Easier to do on a hoist. Not worth the main dealer pricing IMO, but you may want to get a good independent to have it up on a lift and take a look at it. If you do it yourself, come back with any specific questions based on what you find.

Welcome to the board!

Welcome to Xoutpost! This site has saved me thousands!!! Literally. Try not to floor it until your engine is warmed up, will save you a lot of grief in the near future.
When I got my first X a year ago I changed the oil (i do that with all the cars I buy) right away, spark plugs about 2k later (65k), all the filters, and tyres. The ones on them were a little too dry for my taste. So far I have changed brakes, rotors, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and antifreeze. Other small stuff here and there have gone wrong, but no major problems thanks to this forum!!!

Im reading through the DIY's on here for an oil change on a petrol and i know the location of parts and drain plugs may be different, but im sure ill get through it.

do you think i should follow what bmw say and change the coolant a brake fluid??

do you find the carbon filter on the AC is worth installing? i was going to replace the pollen filter but not sure about the carbon

on a diesel would you replace the glow plugs on a service just as u would spark plugs on a petrol?

Just too add to my first post regarding the idleing issue, the engine is warm and usually been running for a while when the stuttering happens

Coolant has varied between 4 years and lifetime by BMW recommendations. I would do it every four years myself.

Brake fluid should absolutely be done every two years. Saves money down the road from seized calipers, etc.

I would use the activated carbon microfilter.

I haven't had to deal with glow plugs, but I wouldn't change them unless a code indicated it was necessary, or I had a cold start issue.

Sunny Wales!Who are you kidding?I stayed in Monmouth for 3 weeks in August 2008 and it rained everyday:rofl::rofl:.Damm it!I couldnt wait to get back to the Algarve:)

Anyway,welcome mate,I am sure you will find lots of useful information and a lots of mods very useful for your 3.0D, and a great bunch of guys and girls.

I need to know the year,mileage and whether you had the car scanned for errors.Can you also look at your inlet manifold (remove the top cover) and check if you see a long metal rod under the manifold on he passengers side (RHD).
If you say that the car stutters after you floor it,maybe its the EGR valve not sealing properly but let me know what I asked, and then I try and help you further.:)

Im so amazed that people on here are from all over the world :wow:
its a 2003 M57 3.0d with 90k, i havent had a diag on the car (do u recommened i do and know newhere local for me, im close to cardiff)
i havent pulled the car apart now but if u need me to see if i got a long metal rod then i will :D

Believe me !I did try to use another word apart from "rod",because I knew someone would catch on it..:rofl::rofl:..but rod is the technical word for it.:)

Its essential that you have you do diagnostics on the car,because it will point us in the right direction...
Erratic idling can be all this......but with diag it shorten this list a lot:)

not really sure if i have a bar or not, assuming not because all i can see is the comman rail? ( i think thats what its called)

came home tonight and disconnected the vacuum pipe from the egr valve, (about 9mm pipe with a blue stripe)?? placed a screw in to the pipe to not affect the system and egr connection left open to atmosphere,

all was well when set off, not flooring it waitin to warm up, found a long road and went for it, the car started to shake again on idle, just alot worse,

pulled up and reconnected the pipe, as yet it hasnt gone back to idleing correctly

any ideas??

You have proved that your EGR system is working fine,so thats one to strike off your list.Like I said earlier,you need to Diag the car.

had a diag today
sent my gf and all they gave her was the codes and no discription

heres the codes
P1640
P3505
P1613
P0404

im lookin on the web atm to find out what they mean

just reading a few threads on other sites, alot of ppl have reported similar problems to what im having,
all of them have pointed to the injectors.
does anyone recommened an injector cleaner as a first port of call or am i just wasting my money?
will i be able to do a test to establish which injectors are faulty so that i aviod the large cost of doing all of them?

or.. am i just barking up the wrong tree?

I hope you did the Diag test at Bmw dealer? DTCs..sometimes taken with scanners have been misleading ,as some members here have found out.

Ok..here goes.
P0404 is an EGR blockage /solenoid fault.Since you already did the EGR test,then it can only be a faulty solenoid valve.

P1613 is an internal controle module detecting memory fault(Has you car been re-mapped incorrectly?...This is common)

P1640 is You EML (engine management light) on the dash!This error usually occurs due this circuit being in shorted.The ECU is trying to turn the EML on and it cant!Do you have an EML on?Doubt it!

P3505 is your Glow plugs.No point in finding out which one is bad.You must change all 6.

If your did the Diag at Bmw ,then this what you need to change.
So,if you had injector issues,there would be a code for itmnost certainly,so just forget that for now.

Any luck yet in finding out if you have the Swirl Flaps?

found a diy on swirl flaps, i cant see the rod there.
going to have a good look on sat morn, prob get a set of glow plugs and do them at the same time

as for the re-map, i havent had it done. poss a previous owner has?? any ideas? is there a definate fuel saving to be made if i do ( currently 24mpg) mix of local and motorway

lmao @ P1640, very true the eml hasnt come on, was very suprised it hadnt when i had all of these codes returned

The swirl flaps is just a precaution and nothing to do with your issue at the momment.Hopefully,you may not even have them.

Like I said earlier,the codes always point in the right direction,even tell you EML is not working;).
I would change the EGR solenoid first and update your software ,especially since the EML isnt coming on,like the codes say!
The glow plugs are only used on cold starts,so unless at least one in shorted to ground,they have no influence when the engine is warm and your erratic issue.

Is yours an Auto like mine?24 mpg is not too bad for local /motorway mix,especially if you have a heavy foot.This is what i am getting with mine ,when I just drive local and the car hardly warms up.I only get 30mpg + when I drive on motorways at constant speeds up to 100 mph (oooops....I meant to say ,on german autobahns!:))

Yes.a re-map can be make your car more economical,as we raise the torque limiters so the engine doesnt need to use as higher revs!
We do both ECO and POWER re-maps.
You have an ECU problem anyway,since your EML is not coming on,so you will need a software update or restored.
If you could send me the existing map (or go to our Stroud installations and they will read and send me the map),I can check it against another 3.0D map
with same software as yours and tell you if your map is original or re-mapped!
I can even make you a nice ECO map for your car.An ECO map will still have more HP/TORQUE than standard but is more economically designed.

are there any tools i can get to read my cars map?

would this be anygood?

Galletto 1260 ECU Flasher Remap Remapping Remapper on eBay (end time 06-Feb-11 11:45:20 GMT)

im a little bit of one of them guys who thinks, cus its cheap it may not be that good and i get that feeling with this..

First Galleto (clone) I bought,6 years ago,cost me 600 quid ...now these are much cheaper ,around 25 quid!
That seller should be fine and they are cheap.I get a lot of my customers to get these off ebay as well and I been using the next seller for 3 years now and his stuff always reliable and about same price. EOBD 1260 ECU Flasher Galletto Tuning Map Tool OBD2 on eBay (end time 07-Feb-11 09:55:02 GMT)

Just buy it for it is is!Read and Write ECU files(maps)....make sure you dont use the "so called" mod files on the cds that come with it , or your car will never start again;)
As a bonus,maybe in future you can read and write a map on a friends car and make some extra cash :).....I dont mind making and selling your mod files:D

how much for a map if i buy one?

my dads buying 2 vw tranporters on the weekend, will you be able to make maps for them too?

im starting to think joining this forum was one of the best things ive done

The re-mapping tool you does a lot of cars but doesnt ALL ...It does most EDC15 ECUs ( Bmw x5, ) and a few EDC16 ,so I need to know what engine and year the 2 transporters are.
The tool is useful but is limited and to be able to do most cars (new ones are now EDC17) you would need to spend 1000s on equipment,like us!
In anyway,I will send you prices and more data ,via PM ...as we are going off topic a bit and is unfair for other members;)

You got PM.
Can you also keep us todate here on the issues with your car and when you have replaced the faulty sensors and other bits..Cheers :)

heya just keeping you all updated

took a lil bit of a punt with the injector cleaner, and it has worked..

i cant say it has fixed the issue but the rumbling has stoped, we put it in on friday nite with a full tank and a double dose of cleaner, she then took it on a 200mile jouney and it was a lil better when she got back, we then took it around some more and nealy used all the fuel and it doesnt "MISS" at all, just need to sort the rest of the faults now

could you help me out with the solenoid on the egr, is this part of the egr or is it located somewhere else

do you think i should remove the batttery for 20/30min to see if it corrects the ECU fault and im having a lil issue with the alarm "beeping" 1 time a second, may this be related?

Update

the injector cleaner hasnt fixed the problem altogether, the x is still stuttering slightly, it seems fine in neutral but in drive there is a slight shudder, But the injectpr cleaner has improved the situation

More investigation is needed so the story continues

;)

bmw e39 egr solenoid valve 7.22341.00 1 on eBay (end time 24-Feb-11 14:39:52 GMT)

is that what im looking for?
and if it is for the price ( im assuming its quite cheap to buy new) that i just replace it?


and for the memory fault, would it be worth disconnecting the battery for 30min or will it need a ecu upgrade/reprog?

Yes,thats the part you need but preferably get a new one.Best to go to dealer giving them your chassis number and say you want the EGR solenoid for your car.
No harm in disconnecting battery but you will need to have you ecu reprogrammed and then a full diagnostic done again.

this is an update for the alarm "beeping"

i removed the switch under the bonnet/hood and it hasnt beeped since

off to buy a new switch now :D

I don't mean to hijack this thread but would you know if I would need to reprogram my ecu on an e39 m5? I'm storing it over winter and pulled the battery. Thanks.

car went in to bmw today, they have so far identified a faulty injector on cilinder 1, will update more when i find out

You had an Ecu internal ram error ,before!Have Bmw reprogrammed it so that your EML brings up error light?Is the injector fault they found ,an ecu registered error?Keep us posted:)

Just sending you a friendly, 'Welcome to the board', shout out.

:confused:

bmw have said that there is no issue with the rom/ram?
find this a lil weird because of the lack of an EMLight

the x is running alot better since the injector change, but we are yet too see if this will last or if it will return.

ON A SEPERATE idea

i seen one of the ibus interfaces, and read another post last night, sounds interesting so may order one of them



Powers1

do u recommend a oilchange in gearbox at 100k?

Very weird that!How are you suppose to know if you have a problem if your EML doesnt light up!Was it this dealer that diagnosed the car earlier and got codes P1613(ecu ram error) and P1640(EML not coming on)?

Do I recommend gearbox oil change at 100k?From a professional point of view,I would have to go with the dealer service schedules and say NO!
However,this is a subject that has been discussed here a number of times and there are arguments fro changing it or leaving it alone,although,I believe most are changing it.
Personally ,I will be changing the gearbox oil, but not as early as 100k!I will do it around 150k!