Front suspension "clunk" during turns (.wav file) - wheel bearing?
 

I currently have a "clunk" comming from the front suspension on my 2004 X5 with 64,000 miles. The level of noise it makes is not consistent, but when it's loud you can feel it in the floor board through your feet.
Driving straight ahead, going over bumps, hitting potholes or using the brakes does NOT lead to the "clunk". Making turns is where you often hear multiple clunks. It is not consistent - sometimes zero, sometimes one, sometimes two clunks. Left or right turns. Occasionally when changing direction, forward to reverse (after the car has sat in the garage) I can get one clunk.

I'm leaning towards SIB 31 01 05, Front Wheel Bearing Noise for E53 X5's produced up to January 2005. Here's why...
Left outboard CV joint rubber gater replaced at 45k miles (CV joint looked good, despite torn boot)
Right outboard CV joint rubber gater replaced at 58k miles (CV joint was good, repair before complete boot failure)
Front tension arm bushings replaced at 61k miles (these bushings when worn make a different noise, repeatable upon breaking)

Using the search tool I found the following past threads...
Wheel Bearing Clunk: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ise-again.html
Wheel Bearing Replacement: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ny-advice.html

I tried the test procedure in the SIB, but when I am stationary and make 3 revolutions with the steering wheel, the clunks occur about mid-way through the revolutions. I make the last revolution or so, then accelerate quickly in reverse, but no more clunks. The clunks I do hear are not as loud as those heard while driving, and there are more of them. To me, it does sound like metal sliding.

(recordings taken with Blackberry phone, tires are on packed snow)
Steering revolutions Wave File 1: http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/r...ng%20Revs1.wav
Steering revolutions Wave File 2: http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/r...ng%20Revs2.wav

Your thoughts?

=============================
So here's a picture of the front suspension and front axle from TIS:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/r...ont%20Axle.gif

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/r...Suspension.gif

Here is a picture of the backside of the swivel bearing:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/r...%20bearing.jpg

I assume there is a lip on the back side of the swivel bearing which limits the inward travel of the wheel bearing?
There is a snap ring on the front side to limit outward movement. So the play in between these two parts is what allows the wheel bearing outer cage to slide and make this clunk per the SIB?

I'm gonna say this, I don't know, but that WAV file sound does not sound like suspension or a bearing. From what I've read and experienced they all pop or slop. That sound like splines slipping. I would think one of your CV's is slipping in the splines (or not in) or the front drive shaft is slipping.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...sfer-case.html

I would think you could remove the front drive shaft and take it for a drive. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. but I would try it.

Mine had a cv boot replaced Oct 09 and by Feb 10 driveshaft knocking. Sounds pretty much the same as that.

I can't tell what is going on with the sound there, too much background noise. I have a clunk which is most noticeable when backing out of my garage and turning the wheel all the way. Every time I take it in for a real problem I mention this. They always say they found the cause and changed this or that out, but it's always there the next day. Doesn't do it every time. I've seen multiple threads blaming everything from body trim rubbing to a known issue with air bubbles in the power steering. They have changed boots, hubs, arms, etc. and it's still there. Mine is post Jan '05 production.

Scott

Wouldn't an outer bearing cage sliding in its bore make a similar sound? This is what the SIB indicates can happen.
I do agree the .WAV files sound like splines slipping, but with the vehicle stationary I wouldn't expect any rotation within the front diff or transfer case.

Control arms?
 

Did you check the control arms for wear? You should put your car on a rack and check the suspension... I had a similar issue in two different BMWs; 540i/6 and X5 4.4. My suspension would pop and when making turns at parking lot speeds and over speed bumps... sounded horrible and pedestrians would turn to see what was making that horrible noise.... I understand it is a common BMW failure at +/- 90k.

:iagree: Same issue on my 2005 X5 4.4 last year (low mileage though...maybe 30k miles). Pop sound that could be felt through the steering wheel when backing up and turning. Diagnosed as play in the upper control arm. Replacing it fixed the problem.

I had this issue as well.

I was thinking all kinds of things like Control Arm Bushings, Drop links, Wheel bearing etc.

Here is what happened. And my Mechanic and I are bot still shaking our heads.

The car had really worn out Pirelli tires on it. We went out of town for 8 days and when I came back all 4 corners had deflated. It was in low rider mode. I tossed the new tires in the back, drove to the shop, mounted the tires and came home. Not a single sound since. The prevailing thought is that the full deflation of the shocks lined them all up again. Apparently there is a cone type deal inside the shock that can be out of align. I have no idea just posting what the speculation is.

Personally I think it is garden Gnomes

im agreeing with phil47 and gixxerboy63 about the noise youre hearing from the front end . im experiencing the same noise right now and iknow exactly where its coming from.From the worn out bushings . Just to cover all the bases i am going to replace the lower, upper, control arms bushings ,ball joints,sway bar links,using powerflex bushings to restore the quality ride i use to have when it was new..FYI you can purchase the control arms and all the other stuff @ bimmerworld .They can press the polyurethane bushings into the control arms for $10. ea.

I've experienced similar issues on 3 separate X5's...i can tell you that your root issue could possibly be what has already been mentioned and possibly not. You're better off having a dealer perform a thorough diagnosis to drill down on the actual cause.

Guys... this is probably way out in left field but, we all know metal shrinks when extremely cold.
It's happened to me and a good half to one full turn took care of it but, the bolts that hold the control arms and thrust arms at the bushings may have some play in them and need tightening??

I have pulled on the control arms (callout #4 in the 2nd TIS picture per my original post) and cannot get any relative movement. I have inspected the rubber bushing where it mounts to the sub-frame carrier, no cracks. There are no tears in the rubber boot for where it attaches to the swivel bearing (callout #6)

No poping is felt through the steering wheel.

Several people have used the word "control arm". Note this is not item #9, which is the tension strut (or thrust arm). I have already replaced the large press-in bushing for the left and right side tension strut. Its rubber boot is also in good shape, but the ball joint could still be bad.

Considering the clunking can be replicated while the vehicle is not moving, it seems the only parts moving are the three ball joints (control arm, tension strut and steering tie rod) on the swivel bearing, the outboard CV joint, and the strut bearing above the large coil spring.
Big "J" has a valid point that metal shrinks in cold weather... perhaps it is just the wheel bearing is able to slide in the swivel bearing like the SIB mentions? I don't want to replace this bearing, but I can't picture the other items making this sliding metal noise...

I haven't been impressed with my local BMW Dealer's Service Department, but it may be worth the time & $.

I had this clunk during slow speed turns with bumps.

I replaced the ball joints, control arms and outer tie rods. noise still there

took it to the dealer. they replaced the steering shaft (from steering wheel to steering rack) and noise was gone.


try this..... with engine off and steering wheel unlocked. rock the wheel back and forth and listen.

Well I did take the X5 to an independent BMW specialty shop. They hadn't heard of a wheel bearing sliding in it's bore, though after they read the SIB everyone agreed it was possible.
The tech went for a test drive, noted how the noise was only during turns, could be felt through the floor board and then put the car on the lift. He checked the bolts for the sub-frame carrier, as he found these loose on a different X5. One sub-frame carrier bolt was 1/4 of a turn loose. He used a pry bar on several of the suspension pieces but nothing moved irregularly.
The X5 was lowered and he pulled on the top of one tire. POP.
He couldn't repeat it, but thought the wheel bearing was a definite possibility.

The X5 went home and continued to clunk. Several weeks later I dropped the splash guard and checked the torque on all the suspension bolts & nuts which were loosened during the CV boot replacement.
Both nuts (L & R side) for the Control Arm (Item #4) connection to the sub-frame carrier were significantly undertorqued at about 75 Nm. Spec is 100 Nm PLUS a 90 degree turn. I guess here is one case "good and tight" is not sufficient. Lesson here is to actually follow the torque in TIS!!

So the award goes to Big "J" for having the best solution.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/r...rm%20specs.gif

Totally makes sense. Those bushings have a splined edge holding them to the mount. I really never assume anyone does not torque to spec. Glad you figured it out.

I'm having the same problem I change the control arm and ball joint but still there was that noise clunking sound. I check under the x again and notice the cv boot outer was rip when i put the x in drive when push the brakes it clunk but only. On the right front where the rip cv boot is located. My question is do I need to change the right front axle. Or please tell me what I need to change to fix this problem I'm 100 % shore it coming from the right front,,,,????? Help please

A clunking noise that youre hearing when turning the steering wheel to the left or to the right is nothing short of a loose sway bar link. needed tool to tighten bolt is an 18 mm box wrench and a #6 hex bit attach to a 3/8 in. drive ratchet. So, remove a right front wheel and it will expose the sway bar link( easy access ). thank you ....

I check it not the sway bars or the control arms they are all newly replace, my right front axle as rip on the cv boot when I put the x in drive with foot on breaks I can hear the clunk when I go from N to D I'm shore it the right front axle, what do I need to fix this problem

As to the CV boot all you have to do is replace the boot. BUT you have to take the axle off. I got the parts for 25$ at the local NAPA. We had the clunk as well AND a ripped CV boot. Replacing the boot did not fix it. The ONLY thing that fix OUR issue was the air suspension totally deflated after a trip. Once it re-filled there has not been a clunk since.

Ok I don't understand did replacing only the cv boot fix the problem???? And how do you refill the Air suspension

No it did not.

After 10 days the suspension drained down.

ok i rock the x side to side i hear a clicking sound coming from the right front tire section... i did the sway bar control arm upper and lower and the axle, could it be the bearing???

I was suffering from the same problem: a clunck that can you feel it through your feet and happens only when making a hard turn.( low speed) i changed the front driveshaft and the noise disappeared. Check also your control arm mine was damaged

im really get sick of this x it like a bad girlfriend, one day is good the next nothing but problems...... i was drive stop at a light, get ready the go,step on the gas pad, than BANG x wont move than i hear this WYNNIE sound, try R. D.N,P, sport mode NOTHING BUT THAT WYNNIE SOUND, AND THE X will not move no matter what gear its in, i had to call for a tow truck... to bring me back home, wow so many people watching when your BMW breaks LOL, once the x is home off the tow i put it in park it started roll down the F in hill, OK a small hill,we got it stop, the tow truck guy said its the driveshaft . when it wont go in gear i had to used the hand brake in order to make it site.. just one day before this incident i had the right front axle replace... Could anyone tell me whats going on with my x

it happened to me also. it is the transmission you have to change or rebuild it
i replaced it with a used 2003 trans ( mine is 2001) because the dealer want 5000 without labour

i will keep the X because i have no money to buy another car and because it looks like a brand new car ( in fact it is 11 year old car lol )

Are u shore it the tranny and not the drive shaft

Yeah FOR me it was a blown tranny but it could be also the drive shaft. Check your tranny oil if it contains little metal pieces then it is the tranny

first of all. Everyone who only changes the CV boot is crazy. You know how much dirt and debris can get in there? Not to mention water and other liquids. Brake clean cant get everything out. Not to mention it will probably only last another 10-20k. Mine are fine and not torn, but I always get mine rebuilt when a boot is torn, which also comes with a lifetime warranty. Costs maybe $80 an axle as well as a core charge. Doesn't matter what kind of car it is. I also have never seen axle splines just slip. Even in accidents.

Wheel bearing making a clunking noise? I have never heard of that. Only grinding. Which happens no matter which way you turn the wheel or accelerate/brake. I am going with a ball joint or something similar. Just because a pry bar and you moving it doesn't make the sound doesnt mean that it is not the problem. The only real way to test ball joints, and joints like them are to detach them and see how easy they are to move. If they are super easy, then they need to be replaced. The only time you can find that the joints are bad when you use a pry bar or pushing on them is when they are really really gone.

Just my 2 cents really. I am not saying that this is your problem, just trying to spread some useful knowledge. I am one of those do it once and do it right kind of guys.

You are right changing only the cv boot isnt a clever act

That much I know I had change the axle, what I'm asking is base on the symptom like a bang coming from under the x the whining sound, none of the gears works if you put it in park without the parking brakes it rolls, the x is dead in the water it doesn't drive anymore if you want to move it know there's two way tow it of push it, so is this a complete tranny failer, or a driveshaft, I need to know the answer because if it's a tranny failer, I'll get it rebuilt, when I have the $ to do it, and if it the driveshaft that a little less expensive that I could fix, I'm think of towing the x to the dealer for a evaluation, if the tranny lol tow it back home, anything else not too expensive they can fix... So guys help me out did I blow the tranny or the driveshaft remember it doesnt move no matter what gear I put it in only that whine sound the paking gear don't work also, it go's in park but the x still rolls no gear work any more

Ok so I took the x to the dealer This what they said went wrong 1 transfer case 2 the center drive shaft total cost 5000$ or more. Lol I don't have that money, so I'm put it in the backyard for a few month, I know I can get the transfer case for 1000$ and the center drive shaft for less than 100$ labour should be 3 your job... After I replace the transfer case will this fix the rear Enders problems also

you will buy a new tranfer case?

nothing but problems!!! im now worried because i feel my 4.4 x slower than before im planning to change the cam sensor and maf and the sparkplugs. i work every month for my x lol

I'll buy a used transfer case with little or no km on it

Old thread, but I have to say thanks for the suggestion. I changed out a front suspension strut then had the knocking noise a few days later (could be felt through the floor and steering). I was about to order a new output shaft when your suggestion motivated me to check the torque on the various suspension bolts.. sure enough the top nut on the link rod had worked itself loose. Tightened it up to spec, knock gone.

Thank you and Big "J". It has been 6 months of crazy troubleshooting... this post made so much sense. Something so simple. I'm happy driving my X5 again. Thanks a lot.

I thought I would revive this old thread I read. I recently started noticing a little 'thump', only when making sharp turns at very low speed or stopped (when pulling in or out of a parking spot). I can only hear it if the radio is very low or off and I think it is just right turns and coming from the front right side. At all speeds, it still runs perfectly straight down the road.

I'm going to have my indy mechanic look at it. He's very good, but not really a BMW guy.

First, I think I need to verify whether I have air suspension (self-leveling). I didn't think I did, but I do have the Sports Package and I pulled my build info and it does show I have 'Sports Suspension Settings', but I don't see anything about air suspension and I don't think I've ever seen a compressor anywhere, but I think one of the threads I was reading said if you have sports suspension, you have air suspension.

Based on the symptoms I have, where would you look first and what can be ruled out?

Can anyone tell if I have air suspension from this?


Vehicle Identification Number
5UXFA13506LY41097
Type FA13 Model X5 3.0i - USA Development Code E53 Chassis GEFZG Steering LL Doors 5 Engine M54 Displacement 3.00 Power 170 Drivetrain ALLR Transmission AUT Color Schwarz 2 - 668 Upholstery Leder Dakota/hellbeige 2 - LCHC Production Plant SPARTANBURG Production Date 2006-04-25
Standard Equipment

249 Multi-function For Steering Wheel Multifunktion Fuer Lenkrad 302 Alarm System Alarmanlage 354 Green Stripe Windscreen Gruenkeil-frontscheibe 645 Radio Control Us Radio-steuerung Us 692 Cd Changer I-bus Preparation Cd Wechsler I-bus Vorbereitung 785 White Direction Indicator Lights Weisse Blinkleuchten 845 Acoustic Belt Warning Akustische Gurtwarnung 853 Language Version English Sprachversion Englisch 876 Radio Frequency 315 Mhz Funkfrequenz 315 Mhz 992 Number Plate Attachement Management Steuerung Kennzeichenbefestigung
Options

1CA Selection Cop Relevant Vehicles Selektion Cop Relevanter Fahrzeuge 2LB Lt/aly Wheels Y-spoke 131 Lm Raeder Y-speiche 131 205 Automatic Transmission Automatic Getriebe 226 Sports Suspension Settings Sportliche Fahrwerksabstimmung 255 Sports Leather Steering Wheel Sport-lederlenkrad 321 Exterior Parts In Body Color Exterieurumfaenge In Wagenfarbe 330 Sports Package Sportpaket 386 Roof Rail Dachreling 402 Panorama Glass Roof Panorama Glasdach 417 Roller Sunblind, Rear Side Windows Sonnenschutzrollo Hintere Tuersch. 438 Wood Trim Edelholzausfuehrung 441 Smokers Package Raucherpaket 442 Cupholder Getraenkehalter 459 Seat Adjustm., Electr. W. Memory Sitzverstellung, Elektr.mit Memory 461 Seat Back Adjustment In Rear Sitzlehnenverstellung, Fond 464 Skibag Skisack 481 Sport Seats F Driver/front Passenger Sportsitze Fuer Fahrer/beifahrer 488 Lumbar Support Driver/front Passenger Lordosenstuetze Fahrer/beifahrer 494 Seat Heating F Driver/front Passenger Sitzheizung Fuer Fahrer/beifahrer 502 Headlight Washer System Scheinwerfer-waschanlage 508 Park Distance Control (pdc) Park Distance Control (pdc) 521 Rain Sensor Regensensor 522 Xenon Light Xenon-licht 524 Adaptive Headlights Adaptives Kurvenlicht 533 Air Conditioning For Rear Fond-klimatisierung 534 Automatic Air Conditioning Klimaautomatik 609 Navigation System Professional Navigationssystem Professional 639 Complete Prep. Cellular Phone Usa/cdn Komplettvorb. Handy Usa/cdn 677 Hifi System Professional Hifi System Professional 761 Individual Sun Protection Glazing Individual Sonnenschutzverglasung 775 Individual Roof-lining Anthracite Individual Dachhimmel Anthrazit 8SP Cop Control Cop Steuerung 926 Spare Wheel Ersatzrad 945 Consideration Of Price Dependency Beruecksichtigung Preisabhaengk.

If you just hear it when you are making turns, I would have them look at the sway bars and sway bar linkages. Sway bars only come into use when the car is turning.

Tim, you can have sports suspension with standard coils OR air suspension.

My 04 3.0i has the sports suspension designation, but has coils all around.

I cant say from the list if your sport suspension is front coil/rear coil or front coil/rear air though. If it is front air/rear air, it would be listed in the build sheet I believe. My build sheet looks similar to yours, no mention of air or coils.

Easy to see with a quick peek underneath though.

I don't think I have air suspension front or rear, but I guess I don't know exactly what to look for. I have never seen or heard it self leveling and have never noticed anything that appears to be a compressor.

This page.. ;)

http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...e53-years.html

Although not everything on it is 100% correct (wheel styles are off in some cases...).

Just look underneath to see if you have airbags.

I'm going to see my indy mechanic in a few to have him diagnose. From what I have read, I think my problem is probably my sway bar end links. I am guessing these parts are the same whether you have the sport suspension or not, since the part look ups don't ask. I used the BMW PNPC program and found the best price for OEM on these is the BMW Parts Store for $40.56 (other places were as high as $62). I also saw several aftermarket for much less. FCP Euro has one for $6.09. Since that part is so much cheaper, I'm reluctant to put that on my X (made by Karlyn in Taiwan).

Are there any aftermarket options anyone would recommend, or should I just go with OEM for this?

OK, turns out it appears to be the inner bushings on my lower control arms. My mechanic said you probably can't just get the bushings because you usually wouldn't be able to press them into the control arm. Sure enough, I looked at the diagrams and they don't even list the bushing, so apparently I need to buy two control arms. Once again, cheapest OEM was BMW Parts Store for $160 each, and there are aftermarket ones ranging all the way down to $37.

Again, are there any aftermarket control arm brands anyone would recommend, or should I just bite the bullet and order OEM? Bav Auto has Lemfoerder for $120 and Meyle for $110. I have seen those brands as recommended on other parts.

The bushings can be pressed out and replaced but since you are not DIY bushings and the labor cost to replace them may exceed labor and part cost of purchasing the entire arm. Usually Original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts are fine. I am not sure who makes BMW control arms.

Tim - are you talking about the "wishbone" control arm? Not the thrust arm (it has a ball joint on one side) -

If so, the OE brand is Lemforder - I'd honestly just go with a pair of those - do it right or do it twice - and address any other wear items in the front end because you'll prob need an alignment after.

FCP Euro is a lifetime warranty on all parts sold, and much cheaper than Bav Auto - $166 shipped for both, if these are the ones:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...r-31126760275l

That one you linked is the upper control arm. I need the lower control arm (also called 'tension strut'), part # 31126769717 & 718. I've seen a lot of places, including FCP, that have the Lemfoerder for $115-120 each. Importec has it for $96, but I've never dealt with them and their site looks fishy. I've also found a FEBI-BILSTEIN one for $98 from RMEuropean and they have the Lemfoerder for $100.

This part connects to the lower ball joint. My mechanic said they are probably fine, but I'm wondering if I should replace those at the same time. He said my sway bar end links look fine, which is what I originally thought the problem was. He also said there's a good chance I won't need to get an alignment if we just replace the upper control arm and it is a good part (exact same dimensions).

This is the part I need:

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Images/Big...9F178792-2.jpg

OK so you need the thrust arm - you can buy bushings for it, the upgraded BMW bushings are about $115 a pair - They are called "protection package" bushings:
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E53-X5...l_Arm/ES49337/
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/414194_x800.jpg


YES replace the ball joints too, they are shot at this point -

Don't try to save the $15 for Febi, just get the Lemforder pair.

Get 2 of these: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...r-31126756491l

You could also go with the Meyle HD - I went with them a few years back and they have worked well for me, about $80 apiece -

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31121096169my

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31121096170my

I'm getting ready to order both control arms and two ball joints from RMEuropean. They won on price - Lemförder control arms for $100 each and Lemförder ball joints for $25 each, free shipping.

I had seen the name, but I didn't realize Lemförder was a division of ZF and they make a variety of OEM parts for BMW.

Yep this is true ^^ - Lemforder is the OEM for BMW

A pair of polyurethane bushing is only $65.00. You can cut out the old bushing with a hole saw and a sawzall. Here a post of the new polyurethane bushings installed in the thrust arm.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...pssds5mmiv.jpg

Here a video of removing the thrust arm from the lower ball joint with a ball joint tool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_ekrGlb6To

If anyone wants my old control arms to put new bushings in, I'll make you a deal.

I think that heat accentuates the failing bushings. This morning, when my mechanic checked out my X, we only got it to make the thump noise once, but he could see the play in it when looking at it while I turned the wheel. Temps were over 90 F here today, and when I went to run some errands late afternoon after it was out in the sun all day, it was making that sound on every turn. I assume this is because the rubber softens in the heat.

New control arms and ball joints are in; noise is gone!

If anyone wants my old, OEM control arms to re-pack with new bushings, you can have them for the cost of shipping (they are very heavy, but should fit in a large USPS flat-rate box)

Well, I replaced my upper control arms (thrust arms) in Aug, 2016, and now, only 15,000 miles later, the thumping sound on sharp turns at slow speeds has returned. I suspect it is the thrust arm bushings again, already. I haven't had a chance to inspect them yet but will today. I bought the Lemforder thrust arms from RMEuropean - now I wish I had got them from FCP, as I believe they offer a lifetime guarantee.

If it isn't the thrust arm bushings, what else should I look at for sharp turn thumping? CV joints?

In Dec, 2017, I replaced the lower control arms (wishbones) and the sway bar end links when I was getting another thumping/clicking sound on slight turns on uneven surfaces at slow speeds and braking vibration when braking at 50-60 mph. When it was up on the lift at that time, the CV boots didn't appear to have any cracks, etc..

Since I still have my old thrust arms, I think I might get the Powerflex urethane bushings. I read in one of the threads that bimmerworld will repack these into my control arms for $10, but I couldn't find anything about that on their site. Does anyone know about this? I think my indy mechanic mentioned someone local that will pack bushings also, so I could check on that.

I have Powerflex bushings in the thrust arms, the Purple ones, you can now get different color Powerflex bushings for different stiffness however, the Purple on 19"s with the sport suspension is firm enough for me. I don't want it any firmer.

Bimmerworld said they can press the bushings in for me, but only if I buy new thrust arms, which are $150 each from them. Hopefully I can find someone local to do it for me on my old ones - doesn't sound like something I care to do myself.

My noise was motor mounts. Noise went away and never came back.

Edit.....Oops add thrust bushings as well

I inspected my CV boots and control arms today. All of the CV boots are fully intact and clean as a whistle. The thrust arm bushings still look like new, but I didn't have anyone around to turn the wheel so I could see what they look like on sharp turns. I know that the sharp turn noise was fixed last time by replacing these, but I just find it hard to believe that the Lemforder thrust arm bushings would fail after 19 months and 15,000 miles.

Then I started thinking it might be the tie rod ends. The ball joints on the end of those look fine, but those are the only ball joints up front that haven't been recently replaced.

the thrust bushings when fail will allow the wheels to move quite a lot (over half an inch) when braking at slow speeds; you can feel the 'thump' but you can just stick a camera phone out the window and at 5mph hit the brakes hard and the wheel will visibly move back quite a bit. It makes a soft thump and shouldn't repeat or have much effect from steering only braking.

A creaking click-click especially if when not moving is almost certainly a ball-joint, and tie rod would be my #1 suspect. If the tie rod ball is covered with a rubber boot and you are anticipating replacement already anyhow, cut a small slit in the rubber boot, shoot some WD 40 in there and the clicks/clunks will vaporize if it's that ball joint.

I had that problem on a previous car and the WD40 fix worked for a month or two while i saved up for the replacement parts.