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-   -   Clicking noise when turning (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/79409-clicking-noise-when-turning.html)

gosha 02-15-2011 05:46 PM

Clicking noise when turning
 
Hi,

Just wondering if someone had any similar experience, with their car. My '03 X5 making a clicking noise when i turn. its coming from left driver side. I have replaced left boot and cv joints but still have the clanking noise. and someone told me it might be the shaft.

Does this sound right? also do you think its a DIY or should i just take it to a mechanic. wonder how much it would cost to replace half shaft.

Any replies appreciated. thanks

sasquatch 02-15-2011 06:39 PM

I just replaced the front axles on my 2002 model. Fairly simple job using hand tools and a few air tools. Sounds like you have failing CV joints despite your recent work. Time to replace the axles. Got mine from Partsgeek.com. Brand name was EMPI and fit and finish was spot on.

gosha 02-15-2011 06:49 PM

Thanks for you reply sasquatch. so should i just replace Axle Assembly - Front Left Part Number: W0133-1799236 in your opinion? How long would it take you figure, do you mind to step me through the process?

Thanks for you help!

sasquatch 02-15-2011 08:41 PM

04 2004 BMW X5 Axle Assembly - Driveshaft & Axle - EMPI, First Equipment Quality, A1 Cardone, USA Industries, Front Left, Front Right, Rear - PartsGeek

Figure about $200 shipped for the axles. Comes with the axles nut. You'll also need the left and right side differential seals. And you'll need new diff gear oil. 75W-90 synthetic is fine.

Remove the skid plate(s). Remove wheels. Remove brake calipers and rotors. Remove axle nuts. Disconnect the ball joints for the lower control arms. Swing the strut assembly out of the way and pull the old axles out of the diff housing. This requires some effort and usually a BFH. Remove old diff seals. Install new diff seals. Install new axles remembering to remove the red plastic protector on the seal. Again, a BFH usually makes this easier. Re-install everything else. Drain old diff fluid and refill with new.

The only hard part is popping the ball joints. If you don't have the tools or experience I suggest having a shop do the work for you. They can be a bitch if they've never been off before.

sasquatch 02-15-2011 08:42 PM

Both sides took about 6-8 hours but I'm slow and had to take some breaks. A hard core DIY type of guy could do it in under 4 hours if they had the right tools and knew what they were doing.

gosha 02-16-2011 11:39 AM

thanks, much appreciated sasquatch. I will attempt to go through with this on the weekend.

thanks again

dapirate 04-24-2011 10:56 AM

Any kind of DIY on changing the axles? I see the CV boot DIY but I just want
to change the whole assembly.

:dunno:

alnsquare 05-09-2011 03:31 PM

I just did the driver side CV axle change this past weekend. It took me good 9 hrs.

1. Jack up the car into a jack stand
2. Take the wheel out and unscrew the cv shaft big screw
This task literally took me 2.5 hrs to do. The crimp on the screw was so tight that I had a hard time wedging a screw driver in it. Ruined (3) screw driver during the process.
3. After the screw is off, I took off the caliper and the rotor
4. Then unscrew and unhinge the tie rod
5. Unscrew the idle arm from the chassis (easier), not from the knuckle
6. At this point, the knuckle can be move around. I used a hammer to loose the axle
7. Even the axle is out of the knuckle, i still can not separate the axle from the differential.
8. I had to unscrew (6) bolts that are attached to the skid plate, to get a better leverage on prying the axle from the differential
9. Finally, my back on the floor and was able to separate the axle
10. To put the new cv axle on, it doesn't go in all the way. I finally had to us a mallet and a screw driver to hammer it in. After two punches, the axle clicked.
11. Wipe off all the excessive grease and put everything back in.
12. 9 hrs later, I am done.

If I had to do it again, it would still take me good 3 hrs to do. I did my Quest in less than 1.5 hrs. The skid plate was the key.

gosha 05-09-2011 10:18 PM

Hey alnsquare,

do you mind to share which tools did you need for this job? thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by alnsquare (Post 823187)
I just did the driver side CV axle change this past weekend. It took me good 9 hrs.

1. Jack up the car into a jack stand
2. Take the wheel out and unscrew the cv shaft big screw
This task literally took me 2.5 hrs to do. The crimp on the screw was so tight that I had a hard time wedging a screw driver in it. Ruined (3) screw driver during the process.
3. After the screw is off, I took off the caliper and the rotor
4. Then unscrew and unhinge the tie rod
5. Unscrew the idle arm from the chassis (easier), not from the knuckle
6. At this point, the knuckle can be move around. I used a hammer to loose the axle
7. Even the axle is out of the knuckle, i still can not separate the axle from the differential.
8. I had to unscrew (6) bolts that are attached to the skid plate, to get a better leverage on prying the axle from the differential
9. Finally, my back on the floor and was able to separate the axle
10. To put the new cv axle on, it doesn't go in all the way. I finally had to us a mallet and a screw driver to hammer it in. After two punches, the axle clicked.
11. Wipe off all the excessive grease and put everything back in.
12. 9 hrs later, I am done.

If I had to do it again, it would still take me good 3 hrs to do. I did my Quest in less than 1.5 hrs. The skid plate was the key.


alnsquare 05-10-2011 07:41 PM

Hello Gosha,

I didn't use any air tools even though I have it. I used 36mm for the shaft screw. Other than that, allen key socket for the caliper, and regular sockets. Long breaker bar for the shaft screw. Thats it.


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