Is any easy fix on wheels not sealing the tires properly?
 

I finally decided to remove my wheels and find out where the air is leaking from. It looks like the wheels not sealing the tyres properly. It is leaking from the back side of the wheels. Please looks at the photo below. I am only wondering if someone fixed similar problem and what will be the best solution. is anything I can put in to stop leakage? Any advice is highly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...eelAirLeak.jpg

There is product made for tire stores to use on the wheels that close the bead up. It is black and goes on with a brush in a can, similar to rubber, but silicone based if I recall. You rub it inside the wheel and tire bead then re-mount the tire. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CAM...4&ci_sku=1EKX3

Oten dismounting the tires and cleaning the rims and tire beads, and then remounting the tires, is sufficient.

Most good tire stores will check and clean the beads of wheels as part of mounting new tires. My tire shop has soft wire brushes that they use on the bead surface of rims to make sure they're free of rust. They've said that Ford and Lincoln alloys are especially prone to corrosion, as are most Chrysler wheels. Rarely are German rims a problem, probably because a Lincoln owner could have a set of tires on there for 50,000-60,000 miles, but most rubber on our cars rarely lasts much more than 20,000-30,000 so there's less chance for corrosion to build up between tire changes.

My shop does a lot of high end tires and wheels, huge volume of all types of tires daily, and a lot of the race wheels and tires for many of us. They're preferred method of cleaning the wheels surface of an alloy is a with one of those flapper wheels you mount in a hand drill- the one that looks like it has a dozen small squares of sandpaper that look like paddles sticking out. Start with one that has 120 grit, and if that doesn't cut the corrosion, they try a courser grit. On steel wheels they follow that with a coat of Krylon paint to prevent rust from coming back.

Sometimes just having the tire shop break the bead and then reinflate can fix the problem. But best to dismount the tire and get after the corrosion.

Agree with both above posts regarding remounting after cleaning the rim and bead surface. Only other caution is that older tires will develop cracks and the bead will fail no matter how clean the rim is. Not common, but I've had a few friends suffer that on older, low-mileage vehicles running summer/winter tires where the tires are 8+ years old (with good tread depth). As the tire ages, cracks develop in the tire and along the bead.

I would have the tire remounted before using the air-compressed sealing materials (Slime etc.).
-Cyrus