DONE. I got the timing done. It's a less than 30 min job if you know what you do. Took me longer because I had to make sure I follow the steps properly.
I couldn't find the torque driver to tension the chain at 0.7NM or 6.3inlb but I improvised by hanging 1.5lb at 6in from the bolt since the angle is about 45 degrees.

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...-16-58_750.jpg

The procedure is not very complicated ... actually, I will see the results when I put the engine back in the car and start the car.

Although to do the timing wasn't a very complicated procedure but because of lack of experience mistakes can happen.

...a stupid mistake when doing the timing. Although I knew and mentioned to the guy that helped me out that the vanos nut and bolt have left handed threads for some reason after we took the first vanos out for the second vanos he decided to change the direction (impact hammer) and instead to unscrew the nut he actually put probably 2-300NM on it which caused some damaged to the nut as you can see in the pic below.

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...ur/torqNut.jpg

At this point I am not quite sure what else has been damaged. When I look at the diagram below I would think that the bolt that tights the vanos (100nm) might have been under stress when the nut was torqued that much but I couldn't see any damage on it.
Looking at the nut damage I suspect that the pressure was on the vanos, which doesn't matter since I replaced it with a new one anyway.

Why I am asking this questions is because when I did the timing using the special tools the little bolt that should go through the hole in the IMPULSE SENDING WHEEL (part 7) didn't go as smooth as it did on the other side that was not over-torqued. Switching the part 7 between left and right didn't make any difference.
Since this is the first time I am doing this I am not quite sure what is the tolerance on that setting. The little bolt went through the hole on part 7 but not all the way which make me think that the vanos bolt (part 6) might be bent a bit. I am talking about a tenth of a millimeter here.

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...timingtool.jpg

What could have been damaged by over torquing ten times part 8.
What are your thoughts when you look at the nut damage?
I would replace part 6, 7, 8 but they don't have part 7 in stock and it has to come from Germany (2weeks).

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/h/l/22.png

Engine back in the car and running smooth. So, nothing got damaged. So, if you intent to do the chain guides don't be afraid to do the timing. If you have the tools don't be afraid, just follow the instructions from tis or DIYs.

Nice piece of work for a home garage DIY job. Well done.

fmugur

fmugur - thanks for posting this as I'm contemplating replacing the guides and the Vanos units myself. Do you still have the locking/timing tools and are you looking to sell them?

No, sorry. Someone I know lent them to me for the job.

I am at a wall with the Jezuz Bolt on the Harmonic Balance Shaft. Pulley is off and now I am left trying to get the Lower timing case cover off but can't get the bolt off the end. How did you do it when you changed your Timing chains ?

Oh, no doubt that bolt is a bitch. I tried a breaker bar with a 2' cheater...that didn't work. Moved up to a 3' then a 4' cheater...still didn't work. Then I heated it and used an impact wrench with 800ft/lbs of torque with success.

You will need both the engine locking tools as well as the VANOS setting tools.

With the engine out of the car, its a pretty straightforward job. You actually cannot do the jobs you are discussing without doing the timing as the cams need to be locked in position when the VANOS setting tools are used to refit the timing discs.

Doing it without the tools and marking everything where it was when removed does not work and you will end up doing it again when it runs rough and throws a check engine light.

Gerry.