HELP!!! 01 X5 3.0 no power, sputtering, 5 mph max
 

So my wife stopped by work today and said hey listen to my engine, it sounds kind of weird. I got up to it and the only thing I noticed is the exhaust sounded a little lower note. I got in and hammered it and it screamed down the road up to 5K rpm just fine. I turned around to come back and all of the sudden I lost power and ABS, gear symbol, triangle exclamation point, Brake, Check engine, and EML lights all came on. It then sputtered like it was missing badly, cyclically revving from 800-1200 rpm. Hitting the gas pedal does nothing. In drive it lurches forward with every rev. I filled up with gas and put Heet in and it did nothing different. It still has torque because during these "lunges" when I brake I have to really mash on it to get it to stop.
Anything you can help me with to get started would be really appreciated!!!!!
Brian

A good place to start would be to have the faults read/analyzed, it kinda sounds like it might have dropped the PT-can signal... Do you have or have access to a GT1?

Thanks Weasel you've helped me so much in the past... What is the PT-can signal? I do not have nor have access to a GT1, although I would love to get this system. Do you know the best place to purchase?
I disconnected the battery to reset the ECM and there is no change. 800-1200 rpm cyclic lurching, and you can floor the gas and it does nothing.

OK here is an image of my cluster while its running like crap...

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...orek/photo.jpg

Any help would be huge. My M3 is going into the shop for a new windshield and this is my wifes car and we are kinda screwed right now without a vehicle... I will buy a cheap reader tomorrow to see what codes I get. At least to hold me over till I get a GT 1.

The can bus is a two wire communications bus that the DME, EGS (tranny comp), DSC (stability control) etc. all talk to each other through. If something opened/shorted the bus none of the modules would know that the other is doing and it can get all kinds of screwy.

But that is just one of the many possible situations. If you get throttle position faults you could have an old problem they even had a bulletin on, where the engine harness got replaced (when under warranty) for bad connections/high resistance in the connectors at the throttle motor.

You can't feasibly buy an actual GT1, but there are places online, ebay included, to buy a laptop setup with GT1 software on it. There is a thread on here called "my experiences with a laptop GT1" that has plenty of good information. You might get some decent info from a code reader, but you will likely have BMW specific fault codes stored that it may not give much info on, and it will only read the DME, but not the DSC module... so you wouldn't have all the info needed.

Interesting. Sounds like some money needs to be dropped...
I bought a cheap Autozone scanner and here are the codes I got (out of my Bentley):
P1633 - Throttle Valve Adaptation Limp-Home Position Unknown
P1639 - Throttle Valve Position Control Throttle Stuck Permanently
P1638 - Throttle Valve Position Control Throttle Stuck Temporarily
P0012 - 'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0011 - 'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0015 - 'B' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)

So one thought I had was I had trouble last year with the camshaft position sensor, so i bought a new exhaust and intake sensor off ebay and installed. The problem was a little better, but still there. I bought a new OEM intake one from Bavauto and replaced and it was perfect. However, I still have that ebay exhaust CPS. Do you think that may be whats causing this issue?

When i clear the codes and run the car again, I got one code to pop up immediately - P1633.
Hopefully this tells you (Weasel!) some more info to get this truck back on the road!!!
THANK YOU!!

OK Weasel another update: I did a ton of research on M52 and M54 and spoke with my dude at Bavauto, and everything is pointing to the throttle body. However, they suggest that I take it in to an indy and check for sure if that is the issue before replacing (I can get it online for $220). Your thoughts?

There is a service bulletin on this, SIB 12 10 02. You could need the throttle body, there is a manufacture date/production split on the t-body that will tell you if you need one or have the newer design. And the engine wiring harness gets replaced no matter what, because the main issue is with the connection at the throttle body plug. *If* you can find the correct pins, you can solder, crimp & heat shrink in a repair, but you'd have to remove the pins to know which ones to get. I put a link below for some connectors so you have the part numbers if you go that route. Shoot me your email address and I'll send you that SIB in PDF format.

RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 3.0i Laminated contacts/spring contacts

This is GREAT news. I will go ahead and pull the throttle body and look at the date. If it is the old one, should I just go ahead and risk it and buy one, as well as the connector repair, or should I still take it in to an indy? Some of the guys replacing these talk about having to "flash" the new TB which requires a GT1 or equivalent. Is this true?
Thanks again for the help. Sent you a PM for the SIB too.

The throttle does have stored adaptations, but they can adjust to the new throttle while driving in most cases.

Thanks Weasel! Im going out to pull the TB right now. Will let you know what I find..

WOW. So I pulled all the air intake boots off and what should I find? The rubber gasket between the MAF and air boot jammed in my throttle body. It had squirted out of it's place (probably worked itself loose from taking the whole construct off/on without disassembling and checking over time) and traveled up to the throttle body. I pulled it, reset the codes, and my X5 is back to running like a dream!
Weasel- can't thank you enough for all your support once again.

If only they were all that easy!

Once you get Weasel involved its always an easy fix! He's like magic or something!!;);):rofl::rofl:

I know this is true!! Hey Weasel my tires on my M3 are wearing out way too quickly....:D

Unplug a couple fuel injectors, you'll save gas and can't spin the tires! :nanana:

:iagree:

Attach a wedge to the sole of your right shoe. The wedge will prevent you from fully depressing the gas pedal. You will have to learn to walk with the wedge attached so expect difficulties and wear a lot of pillows tied around your body until you stop falling over. You will also have to start left foot braking if you do not do that already. The size/angle of the wedge will dictate how much you save.

Hi Weasel
I have the same problem on my X5 3.0 2001, the dealer said the connection of the engine wiring harness to throttle is not good and need to replace whole cable, it is cost $2000. Do you think I can fixed the connector as you said?? Also please sent me the SIB to [email protected] . Thank you.

Hi bimmerboy12
I have same problem and your work is look easy to fix the problem. i don't understand what is the meaning for "The rubber gasket between the MAF and air boot jammed in my throttle body", is it means somewhere have been broken and some rubber drop into the throttle body?? Would you please let me know how to follow your work (step by step)? Thank you.

bimmerboy12, I registered here just to say THANK YOU!!!

Yesterday I got my 2003 X5 (e53) back from the mechanic. He had replaced the MAF and some other repairs. I needed to drive it around so that I could then go and get it smog inspected, and also see if the engine light would come back on.

As I was exiting the interstate the engine suddenly started acting weird and went into a failsafe mode which limited me to 5-10mph and the engine was barely running. The throttle didn't make a difference and the break pedal was extremely hard to push down even in neutral. When I got finally got it home and started researching I found your posts and went out to take my intake apart. I found a rubber gasket jammed into the throttle body. I took it out but the engine would not come out of safe mode even after I cleared the code.

I found a trick online that said to put the key to on for 10 seconds, off 10 seconds, then immediately past on to start. It's now running like a dream, and oddly enough there's more throttle response than there was before.

Thank you so much for having trouble with your car, so you could help me fix mine!